A Rhine River Cruise with Viking

There are castles to be seen when cruising the Middle Rhine Valley.

Say the word “cruise” and you are sure to get a reaction.  Some people love cruises and plan most of their vacations around an ocean or a river voyage.  Others swear they aren’t “cruise people” and would never book one. I fall somewhere in between.  I enjoy independent travel that immerses me in the culture of a place and allows me to do my own thing at my own pace.  Most of my trips will be independent ones. Planes, trains, and cars usually get me where I want to go.

Still, it can be fun to explore some areas on a tour, especially places where one doesn’t speak the language or those that don’t draw us in for a longer stay. And spending a few days on the water can be a relaxing way to vacation.

I am not a fan of those huge ocean-going ships, both for environmental reasons and because the idea of a floating city with thousands of people doesn’t appeal to me. I don’t need casinos, pools, or glitzy shows when I travel either. As for evening gowns and formal nights - forget about it! Smaller ships offering well curated but casual experiences and meaningful cultural insights are more my style.  I have found that river cruises provide just the right balance. And I have really enjoyed sailing with Viking.

Quaint villages, green landscapes, and calm waters along the Rhine.

Cocktails in the Viking Baldur lounge - a great way to catch up with friends old and new.

The Viking longships, which cruise the European rivers, are relatively small. They carry just under 200 passengers. This allows the ships to dock close to city centers and right alongside small villages. Getting on and off the boats is a snap and allows for either joining a guided walk or for independent exploration in the towns along the river.

A river cruise is also a great way to travel with a group of friends. The choices of activities allow each group member to select different excursions and the layout of the Viking longships provides plenty of space to cozy up with a book or a drink or a deck chair. But then there is plenty of opportunity to spend relaxed time together on board - at meals, in the lounge, over a card game, or socializing in one of the outdoor spaces.   

My recent cruise with Viking, along the Rhine River, gave me the chance to spend a week with friends from New Mexico. We met up in Amsterdam and spent time catching up and sharing a week of fun explorations as we sailed from Amsterdam to Basel along the Rhine river.

Sunset along the Rhine as seen from the Viking Baldur during an evening of sailing.

One of the many castles in the Middle Rhine Valley

 Another advantage – no packing and unpacking!  My roommate and I settled into our cabin on day 1 and visited 4 countries in 8 days without ever having to pack and unpack again.  And though that may sound like a lot of places in a short time frame, the time spent sailing from one location to the next was either during meals on board, in the evenings during social hours in the lounge, throughout the night, or on days when the passing scenery was so spectacular that watching from a relatively slow-moving boat was wonderful. 

Each day is different on a river cruise. There are new cities to explore, led by knowledgeable local guides.  Stops includes an introductory walking tour followed by free time to explore on your own.  There are slower paced groups for those who might want a more relaxed pace with less standing and more opportunities to sit awhile. All of the general walks are included in the cost of a Viking cruise along with some optional, reasonable priced, excursions as well.

Rudesheimer coffee served in traditional cups was an afternoon treat after an on-board demonstration of how to make it.

On-board activities link to the places visited and include history and cultural information about the various regions, demonstrations of local crafts or cooking, and port talks which highlight the interesting things to see in each town. 

On the Rhine cruise we made Rudesheimer coffee on the day we stopped near that city (yum).

The chefs also gave a cooking demonstration, showing us how to make an authentic French Flammkuchen, a type of flat bread with toppings (but don’t call it pizza!) as part of our stop in Strasbourg.  The chefs were assisted by a volunteer passenger and everyone received a copy of the recipe to take home. The demonstrations was followed by a tasting - delicious!

Pretzels and beer kicked off a night of German themed dishes.

The meals also reflect the food of the regions we visited.  German night was a highlight on this voyage.  No worries though – if the local cuisine doesn’t appeal there are always some standard options available including salmon, steak or chicken. There are always vegetarian choices as well. Wine and beer are included at both lunch and dinner.

I enjoyed tasting the local delicacies – even raw herring at breakfast.  That was part of the fun as were the daily descriptions of dinners given by the head chef.  Good food, from sumptuous breakfasts complete with a made-to-order omelet bar, to tasty lunches and beautifully presented dinners, added to the enjoyment. Getting to know other passengers at meals was an added bonus. Our cruise companions were an interesting and well-traveled group.

Oh - and did I mention deserts? Servings were modest enough to encourage even the most calorie conscious to indulge!

 The Viking longships offer a range of cabins – from small cabins at the water line, to larger cabins with balconies, and a few large suites.   Of course, there is no reason to spend a lot of time in one’s cabin.  On board is a library, a bar / lounge, an outdoor terrace at the front of the boat, and an open upper deck. The upper deck has lounge chairs, a walking track, a small putting green, an herb garden and fantastic views.

A view from my stateroom balcony, near Cologne.

A few general things to keep in mind when planning a river cruise. First, pack light.  There are no formal nights.  Days are quite casual and there is no pressure to wear a different outfit every day - mix and match is the way to go.  A few scarves work wonders to dress up or modify an outfit.  Men don’t need ties or jackets.  Dinner dress is “nice, casual”.   Slacks and shirts or sweaters work for cooler season cruises along with rain gear.  Capris, slacks, sundresses, lightweight shirts in summer. Walking shorts are ok for excursions but discouraged in the dining room.  As for shoes – comfortable walking shoes are a must, leave those heels at home!

 If going all carry-on on an overseas flight works for you then that’s ideal.  If not, then a small carry-on with a change of clothes and anything essential is a must.  It never fails that on any cruise there are passengers whose bags are delayed, sometimes by several days.  This is an airline issue, not a cruise company issue.  But without at least one change of clothes, essential medications, and toiletries, a trip can be ruined. Placing an Air Tag device in checked bags is helpful for locating lost luggage.

Amsterdam, where the Rhine River Cruise began. This part of town was within walking distance of the ship dock.

It is best to arrive in the departure city at least one day, preferable two, ahead of a cruise. Between flight delays, European strikes, and cancelled flights, arriving a couple of days early is good insurance that you won’t miss a day or two of a cruise.  The ship does not wait for late arriving passengers! Plus, those departure cities are fun to explore. The two days we spent in Amsterdam before my recent cruise was a great way to begin the trip. 

While the ship itself is a wonderful part of the river cruise experience, the real stars of the voyage are the cities along the way.  Over the coming weeks I will post more about each of the cities we visited. Lots of photos to come !

Note:  I am not affiliated with Viking Cruises in any way and was simply a paying passenger on this cruise.

Paris in Winter (Part One)

Paris in winter.  Yes, it is cold.  Very cold!  A bit gray.  Sometimes misty and rainy.  But still - it’s Paris and less crowded than in peak season.  And, as the saying goes, Paris is always a good idea! With that in mind, I recently packed my warmest coat, gloves, scarf, hat, even my winter-silk long underwear. Then I grabbed a friend and jumped on a flight from Florence to Paris for a long weekend of fun, French style.

Walking across some of Paris’s ornate bridges was definitely on my must-do list. Here, the view towards the Eiffel Tower from the Pont Alexandre III

With only 3 full days, and a goal to mostly just soak up being in Paris and visit the Christmas markets, my travel companion and I had a short “must-do” list. 

We began each day over a breakfast of croissants or baguettes with jam, along with hot cups of café crème, at one of the cafes near our hotel. Not a bad way to warm up before heading into the brisk air of wintertime Paris.

 A good way to start a visit to Paris is with a boat trip along the Seine on the Batobus.  Not to be confused with the narrated tours and tourist dinners on the Bateau Mouche, the Batobus really is a floating bus with stops near all the major sights in central Paris.  The circuit begins near the Eiffel Tower and stops near the Invalides, Musée d’Orsay, Saint-Germain des Près, the Jardin des Plantes, the Hotel de Ville, Notre Dame, the Louvre, and the Place de la Concorde.   It is a hop-on, hop-off service and an easy way to get around.  Along the route you pass by stunning architecture, famous monuments, houseboats, working boats, and under Paris’s many beautiful bridges.  Doing the full circuit late on a winter afternoon, as the lights slowly come on along the Seine, is a special experience.   And since the temperatures were brutally cold in December, hoping on the warm Batobus allows for views of Paris from the warmth of the boat. 

First stop, the Tuileries Garden.  Created as a private garden by Catherine de’Medici in the 1500’s, today it is an inviting public space.  With its central location, Grade Allée promenade, trees, fountains, benches, and views of the Louvre Palace, it is the place Parisians come to meet friends, stroll, picnic, entertain their children, and paint.  It is also where the huge Ferris wheel, providing views high above the city, is currently located. 

One of many intriguing sculptures in the Tuileries Garden

There were no spring flowers or children’s boats in the round basin of the Tuileries on that cold winter morning.  And yet the park was an still an elegant green space filled with sculptures and long views.  It was a lively spot too – the chairs and benches filled with people despite the chill and the sights, sounds, and delicious scents of the large nearby Christmas market. 

 From the Tuileries Garden it is an easy walk to the Musée d’Orsay, the only museum on our must-do this trip. 

The building itself, a train station in 1900’s Beaux-Arts style, is a marvel.  How amazing it must have been to arrive in Paris to that gorgeous station.  Today, it hosts large numbers of visitors and from the upper stories gives one of my favorite Paris views - looking through the giant clocks out towards the Tuileries Garden.

 The galleries display many different art forms -  sculpture, painting, furniture, photographs.  It is a lot to take in, so we concentrated on the ground floor sculptures and the incomparable collection of Impressionist paintings.   I am always most drawn to the Monet’s, but the rest of the collection, including works by Renoir, Manet, Pissarro, Van Gogh, Cassatt, Degas, are equally fascinating.  

Below are a few of my favorite Impressionist works (left to right, Country Dance by Renoir, Degas’s Little Dancer, and Field of Poppies by Monet). Enchanting works!

 A visit to Notre Dame was another must. 

Since the horrific fire it is not possible to enter the church or even approach the front doors. The damage to the roof and spire is heartbreaking.  The area surrounding the cathedral is fenced off but along the fence a series of illustrations tell the story of the reconstruction efforts. 

The fence is low enough to allow a good look at what is still a beautiful cathedral and to pick out the gargoyles that still stand watch. 

 One of the best things to do in Paris is to simply wander the neighborhoods.  More about that next week. For now, I leave you with the the best ways to warm up when you think you’ve gotten frostbite from taking your gloves off to use your camera. A stop into a little cafe for a chocolate chaud, a bowl of onion soup, or a glass of good red wine will do the trick.

Italy Travel Update : June 2022

It’s June and the Italian summer travel season is in full swing. It seems that everyone who has been not-so-patiently waiting to vacation in Italy for the past two years has arrived this month, a pattern that will likely continue throughout the summer. Expect crowds. Recent travelers include my daughter and two oldest grandkids who arrived this month for a long awaited trip to visit me in Italy. I flew back to the US with them just a few days ago and so thought this would be a good time to share the realities of the current travel situation.

Italian summertime treats - gelato and granita!

Let’s start with the COVID related rules - a subject that has dominated travel discussions for the last two years and confused us all with frequent revisions. The good news is that things are less complicated now. As of June 1 all of the COVID restrictions for entering Italy have been eliminated. The Italian Green Pass, which documented both the results of testing and the completion of vaccines is no longer in use. That means that no proof of vaccines is required (though it is still highly recommended that one be fully vaccinated before any travel) and no pre-flight COVID test is needed. This includes for entry into Italian restaurants, museums, theaters, etc.

Mask mandates are not required in most places but they are still mandatory (through at least September) on public transportation. This includes Italian airline flights, trains, ships, buses. They are also required in health care facilities. And not just any mask will do. An FFP2 (or KN95) is required. Italians are for the most part compliant about this. I have seen staff require passengers to change to an appropriate mask or put one on if they are maskless, especially on planes and trains. It was not enforced on the private ferry services we recently took in Liguria.

The seaside beckons in the fishing village of Camogli

The bad news is that the effect of relaxing the rules is an increasing number of COVID infections. From a personal perspective, COVID has spread more among people I know in the last few months then at any time since the beginning of the pandemic. Several have been quite sick and remained positive, and isolated, for several weeks. This has been a significant enough increase that many in Lucca’s English speaking community have returned to limiting group sizes, avoiding indoor groups, masking in any crowd, more frequent testing, and self-quarantine at the first sign of a sniffle. The relaxation of rules plus the influx of tourists is a concern and many worry that the rules have been cut back too much, too quickly. It remains to be seen if there will be a return to some of the previous rules so it is best to check right before travel. The best site I’ve found is the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.esteri.it) with information in both Italian and English.

What about the return to the United States? As of June 12 there is no requirement for COVID testing prior to entering the US (a big change). US citizens do not need to provide proof of immunization. Non-US citizens are required to have completed a primary series of immunizations at least two weeks prior to entry to the US, no booster required. Masks are no longer required on US airlines but still highly recommended. Few people were wearing masks on my recent flight from Frankfurt to Denver, despite a packed flight and those rising European COVID rates. I had mine firmly in place, as did my family. Vaccinations and masks may not be required but they remain the best defensive strategy. And it should go without saying that anyone with signs of illness should not board a plane!

Lucca’s balconies are filled with colorful summer flowers.

Now, for the harsh reality of air travel this summer. Combine a huge increase in travelers to Europe with shortages of pilots, airport staff, and baggage handlers and you get a perfect recipe for chaos. Throw in an uptick in strikes by airline workers and air traffic controllers in Europe and England and, mamma mia - che casino (what a mess)! Travelers need a double dose of patience, determination, the ability to handle last minute changes, flexibility, and a lot of pre-trip preparation.

Take my daughter’s trip as an example of what can happen. She arrived in Frankfurt to find her connection to Pisa canceled. She was rebooked automatically but with a two day delay in Frankfurt and one of her children on a different flight (definitely not ok!). In order to get her to Italy with only a one night stay in Germany, and both kids on the same flights, she had to fly to Rome instead of Pisa and then take a train to Florence and another to Lucca. With two teenagers in tow. She received no (zip, zero) help from the airlines with finding a hotel for her overnight delay. She arrived in Rome a day later, but two out of three suitcases did not. They were missing in action for almost the whole trip. That meant buying new wardrobes for my daughter and one of the grandkids. When did the bags arrive? The last 2 days of the trip! The tales of travelers arriving days late, missing cruises or big events, ruined trips, tears, and lost luggage are all too frequent right now. So, what’s a traveler to do?

The neighborhood in Rome where I found a last minute hotel as I raced there to meet my family’s rerouted flights. A stressful and expensive detour but I made the best of it. I found a lovely neighborhood bar just down the street from the hotel.

First, keep an eye on flight schedules as they are likely to change. Choose flights with as few legs as possible. It might save some money to have more stops but it also increases the chance for delays and cancelations. Whenever possible fly directly into Italy rather than transiting through another European country. Bags are more likely to be misplaced when multiple flights into multiple countries with more than 1 carrier are involved. Recent photos of piles of delayed luggage at Heathrow have convinced me that there really is a place where suitcases go to die.

Arrive a couple of days early to avoid missing a cruise or important event.

If arriving before a cruise, cooking week, wedding, or other important event, plan to come a couple of days early. Travel insurance can help cover the costs of a delay, but not the heartbreak of missing a big event!

A classic Tuscan landscape, near Pienza.

Pack light and do only carry on if at all possible. If it is necessary to check a bag, then a carry-on bag with essentials (as always - medications, jewelry, makeup etc) should come along and carry a change or two of clothing and perhaps an extra pair of shoes. Leave non-essentials at home. The space a couple of books take in a carry-on is better used for clothing! Keep a record of what is in each bag and be able to provide a complete description of a bag that goes missing. Also hang on to boarding passes as they can be needed if claiming compensation for lost or delayed baggage.

Travel may be a bit complicated these days, but it is worth the effort ! Rome awaits.

Be sure to sign up for notifications from the airlines and use wifi on board the flight (even if it costs) to follow the next legs of travel. Much better to know as far in advance as possible if the next flight is delayed or canceled. When my daughter’s flight from Frankfurt to Pisa was canceled she was in the air and without wifi. I saw the cancelation because I was tracking her flights (with the Flight View app) from my home in Italy. I was able to book her a hotel in Frankfurt and rearrange her flights even before she landed. Meanwhile, I could not reach her to let her know about the changes, or ask for her preferences, and no announcements were made during her flight. Not until she landed and checked the departure board did she see the cancelation. By that time the lines at the service counters were long and chaotic. Luckily, she got my text once she had access to airport wifi. She could skip those long lines to rebook and the search for a hotel as I had been able to arrange them before she even knew there was a problem. But not every traveler has a mamma in Italy, so best to be able to check for one’s self throughout the journey.

If cancelation or lost luggage is your fate, start collecting the documentation needed to file claims right away. This includes: proof of the cancelation (a screen shot of the itinerary showing the cancelation or even of the departure board), receipts for hotel stays and meals, receipts for the purchase of personal items and clothing required due to lost or delayed bags. Keep everything! Losses may be covered by the airlines (not guaranteed depending on circumstances), trip insurance, or credit card benefits.

prosciutto and melon - tastes like summer in Italy!

My return flights to the US last week went a bit more smoothly. But check-in took longer than normal in Florence, leaving no time for a coffee stop much less a bite to eat, between check in and boarding (not ideal with a 6:20 am flight, pack snacks). We were delayed an hour out of Frankfurt. That flight was packed. Arrival in Denver was a madhouse, with a need to go back through a very long security line and then a mad dash to our final connection just in time to board. Not even time for a bathroom break !

Please remember to be kind to flight attendants and airport staff. They are the ones working hard, despite all the challenges, and aren’t personally to blame for current issues. Truthfully, I was embarrassed by some of the rude passengers on my flights. A simple please and thank you goes a long way!

Come to Italy and take a selfie ! Despite delays and lost luggage my crew had a wonderful Italian vacation.

The good news is that between the crazy arrival flights and the stressful return flights, Italy provided a wonderful vacation. My daughter and two oldest grandkids, ages 13 and 16, are great travelers. They weathered the chaos of travel without missing a beat and arrived determined to not let delays and missing baggage ruin their enjoyment of Italy (and two of them now have new Italian wardrobes). Attitude really is the key to surviving this year’s challenging travel situation. They loved Lucca, Rapallo and the Portofino Peninsula, a day trip to Genoa, and 4 days in the Cinque Terre. Lots of blog posts to come about these wonderful places to visit!

"Stuck" in Italy

As much as I love to travel, there are times when it absolutely is not fun. Take, for instance, my most recent trip to Italy. The time spent in Italy was, as always, fantastic. The time spent getting home from Italy was not. The experience prompted me to think about the best tips I have for those times when travel plans go awry.

Travelers wait to learn whether their flight has been delayed or canceled at the Florence airport.

Here's what happened: I was scheduled to fly from Florence to Paris and then to the United States. Fog rolled into Tuscany, however, and my flight out of Florence was canceled, along with several other flights. I was unable to get on another flight that day so I spent an unexpected night in Florence and was re-booked for the next day.

It's hard to complain about having to spend an unexpected day in Florence.

Here’s what helped me cope (beside the fact I was "forced" to spend a day in Florence).

• Travel insurance. When I travel internationally, I always buy travel insurance. If you purchase soon after booking your trip, it’s cheaper. There are several online sites where you can get instant quotes. Depending on the coverage you choose, travel insurance can help cover the costs of delays, lost luggage, hospitalization and more.

• Airline status through frequent flier programs. If you are going to travel a lot, you will benefit from a frequent flier program (or two or three) - not only because you will earn miles that can be redeemed for flights or upgrades but also because you will earn “status.” Status equates to perks and one of those perks is a dedicated telephone line at the airline for when you need help. When my flight from Florence was canceled, I called that line and within 20 minutes had been rebooked for the following day. I didn’t have to stand in line with the hundreds of other people whose flights had been canceled, and I didn’t have to try to solve the problem on my own.

• Airline apps. I have the app for the airline I fly most frequently on my smartphone. That means I have my flight confirmation information at all times. The app also sends me updates when the flight is boarding or delayed. It lets me check in the day before. It includes contact phone numbers for the airline. And it even alerts me when my luggage has been loaded on the plane!

• Some advance planning. I always pack for the trip home hoping for no delays, but prepare for one just in case. That means having an extra set of underwear, a change of clothing, PJs, any needed medications, a good book, and other essentials with me for my flight home. Having these make a delay much easier.

• An attitude of gratitude. As much as I don’t like having my travel plans upended by weather or mechanical problems, it happens. I was “stuck” in Europe for an extra day twice last year. But being “stuck” in Europe is hardly a hardship. I am lucky to be able to travel. I try to remember that when delays happen.                          -post by JG

The view from the plane window once I was traveling after being delayed for a day in Italy.