All That Glitters Is Gold in Monreale, Sicily

The poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe is quoted as saying, "To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all." It took me almost a dozen visits to Italy to finally see Sicily, and I'm actually glad I waited. Goethe may have believed Sicily was "the clue to everything," but I needed the rest of Italy under my belt to appreciate Sicily. (And by "under my belt," I am referring to what I've seen and learned in all my travels to Italy - not the food and wine I've consumed.)

The exterior of the Monreale Cathedral, Sicily, September 2016.

The history in Sicily is nearly mind-boggling: There is archaeological evidence of human activity on the island as far back as 12,000 B.C. Everyone from the Phoenicians to the Greeks to the Romans to the Vandals, Ostrogoths, Normans, Bourbons and others have left their fingerprints on the island that sits in the Mediterranean to the west of the Italian mainland's boot tip. Sicily became part of Italy in 1860, when Italy was unified.

Palermo, Sicily, September 2016.

Palermo is Sicily's biggest city. Just outside it is a town called Monreale that is home to one of the most stunning cathedrals in all of Italy. The Monreale cathedral is also an Italian national monument. The cathedral was started in the 12th century by William II after the Norman conquest and is considered a great example of Norman architecture. But Norman architecture doesn't hold a candle to the cathedral's interior, almost all of which is covered by glass mosaics on a background of gold. The beauty of the mosaics mixed with the gold stole my breath as I walked into the cathedral.

Monreale Cathedral, Sicily, September 2016.

Mosaic figures of Christ, St. Peter and St. Paul, along with depictions of Old Testament stories, captured not only my attention but my imagination. The work, the time, the talent, the patience needed to complete these masterpieces are unfathomable to me. The gold glistens. The colorful mosaics sparkle.

A mosaic detail, Monreale Cathedral, September 2016.

Once I could pull myself away from inspecting up close the tiny pieces of glass that are pieced together to form pictures, I was able to walk to the roof terraces over the cloisters. From there, the view is over the fertile valley all the way to the Mediterranean. So much manmade beauty inside; so much natural beauty outside. The Monreale Cathedral sums up Italy for me. -post by JG

The view to the Mediterranean Sea from the roof terraces of Monreale Cathedral, Sicily, September 2016.

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For information about visiting the cathedral, including hours, see http://www.cattedralemonreale.it

Agriturismo Cretaiole, or My Imagined Life as an Italian Farmer

I am by nature a city girl. I may grow some herbs and a few tomatoes, but more serious gardening is beyond me. I remember my Italian grandfather's vegetable garden in New York, and the taste of his fresh tomatoes and wax beans, but I figure that's why Mother Nature invented grower's markets - to give me the flavor without all the work. But a week on an agriturismo in southern Tuscany had me reconsidering - perhaps I had a bit of farm girl in me after all. I actually caught myself humming the theme song to "Green Acres" at one point, and that must mean something. 

Agriturismi (that would be the plural of the Italian word agriturismo) sprang up in the 1980s as the Italian government began subsidizing farmers who worked their land and hosted visitors on their property. The goal was to encourage farmers to continue agricultural work while developing an additional source of income. One of the first agriturismi in the Val d'Orcia was Agriturismo Cretaiole. The vision of its owner, Luciano Moricciani, was revolutionary at the time when locals (and even his own father) questioned if any tourist would really want to stay on a farm. But Luciano persisted, turning a run-down farmhouse into a place with charm and tons of local character. Today, Cretaiole is a magical spot, part working farm and part vacation destination. 

View over the valley toward Pienza from the kitchen window at Cretaiole

What makes Cretaiole so special? To start, it’s the Moricciani family – Luciano, son Carlo and daughter-in-law Isabella, along with their "right-hand woman," Carlotta. They are warm and welcoming, eager to share the history of their land, along with their knowledge of local customs and cuisine. Isabella expertly guides visitors to the special places of southern Tuscany - hill towns, restaurants, wineries, scenic drives - and also teaches the making of pici, the local pasta specialty. Carlo runs the vineyard, supervises the olive harvest and shares his considerable expertise about olive oil. Then there is Luciano, the padrone of the family. Luciano runs the family farm in Pienza, works with the grapes and olives, and finds time to visit with guests in the evening, arriving with wine, limoncello, grappa and music. Dancing with Luciano late into a warm Italian evening makes you feel like you really, truly belong to Italy. Essential to the team is the magic of Carlotta, who manages the day-to day needs of the visitors; whatever you need, Carlotta smiles and makes it happen. This is a hands-on family operation and that's a big part of what makes it special.

As an agriturismo, the heart of Cretaiole is the beautiful stone farm complex, which has been converted to apartments ranging from studios to three-bedroom units. There are courtyards and open spaces with views over the Val d’Orcia and of Pienza a short distance away. The large lawn is dotted with swings, lounge chairs, and comfy spots for reading, daydreaming, mingling, or just gazing at the surrounding beauty. The apartments are rustic Italian style (our front door opened with a big skeleton key) but with all the modern conveniences, including fully equipped kitchens, great bathrooms, and comfortable beds with lovely linens. Our kitchen was stocked with local products, including meats, cheeses, fruit, a bottle of wine (all part of the “dolce vita” package) along with other kitchen basics (coffee, olive oil, sugar, etc). The garden was planted with tomatoes, lettuce, fennel, zucchini, cucumbers, and onions - feel free to pick what you need! We cooked a memorable dinner with fresh pasta purchased in Pienza, a sauce made of onions and fennel and a salad made from garden ingredients. How do you say YUM in Italian? Che buono! It isn’t just about guest quarters though. The property is also a place of work with a vineyard and olive trees.  If you are lucky enough to be there during the vendemmia (grape harvest) in October, or the olive harvest in November, be sure to lend a hand!  

Entrance to apartment Il Granaio at Cretiaole

The location of Cretaiole, about 10 minutes outside of Pienza, makes it an ideal spot for exploring the many hill towns of southern Tuscany. Pienza itself is a delight. It’s a short drive from Cretaiole to Montepulciano, Montalcino, Monticchielo, and San Querico d’Orcia.  A car is a necessity, but the driving is easy, the scenery spectacular, and Isabella provides great driving directions. Should you get lost, just call Carlotta on the cell phone provided to guests.

If I close my eyes I can still picture it: a cozy fire in the big open fireplace warming a chilly morning, windows open to stunning views of the Tuscan countryside, the scent of good Italian coffee brewing in a Moka on the stove, grapes ripening in the fall sun, and a garden just waiting for me to pick plump ripe tomatoes for the night’s meal. Cretaiole really was my perfect Tuscan farm home, if only for one week.        - post by JMB

The kitchen / sitting area fireplace in my Cretaiole apartment

Contact:   www.cretaiole.it

Not to be missed:  a visit to the nearby La Foce gardens, hiking down to the Etruscan ruins on the Moricciani property, a massage under the olive trees, pici making with Isabella, tasting Cretaiole’s olive oil, wine and prosciutto along with a local pecorino cheese, sharing a limoncello with Luciano, a visit to Monticchielo with lunch at La Porta, tasting Brunello wines in Montalcino.

Natural History - Mount Etna

The volcano giveth and the volcano taketh away. That is an extremely abbreviated version of the story of Mount Etna, the extremely large, extremely active and extremely important volcano in eastern Sicily.

I spent eight days in Sicily last September, traveling from Palermo in the northwest to Catania in the east, and being awed by Monreale and Agrigento in between. I'll write more about Monreale and Agrigento in future posts. Today I'll focus on Etna, which looms over the city of Catania.

Mount Etna, September 2016.

Mount Etna is huge. It is an active volcano - one of the most active in the world, the experts say - and covers more than 450 square miles. It has been growing for about 500,000 years! In the photo above, you can see Etna blowing smoke from one of her mouths. In the foreground is lava rock from an eruption this century. A month before I was there, a new "active pit crater" was seen by one of the volcanologists who keep a very close eye on Etna every day.

During my recent visit (as part of a tour with the wonderful company Classic Journeys - I'll also blog in the future about whether to visit Italy independently or as part of a tour - I've done both), we hiked Mount Etna. Not to the top - the volcano has an elevation of almost 11,000 feet - but up one section. Along the way, we came across the remains of a hotel buried by lava during the eruption I mentioned earlier. You can see the hotel roof in the photo below. Fortunately, no one died in that eruption. Still, the volcano taketh.

Mount Etna, September 2016.

We also came across a local man in September who had been gathering porcini from the fertile land for his lunch. About 25 percent of Sicily's population lives on the slopes of Mount Etna. The volcano provides not only the benefit of fertile land to Sicilians but also the benefit of tourism (all we hikers need to eat, use the restroom, buy souvenirs, etc.). The volcano giveth.

A Sicilian man shows off the porcini he gathered from Mount Etna for his lunch, protected on his walk home by a cover of ferns. September 2016.

As we hiked up the volcano, it was hard to believe anything could grow on the black expanse we covered. It was even harder to believe that Etna is active nearly every day - not spewing-lava active but churning active (I think of it as a stomach growling).

About two months after walking on Etna, I read this on a website dedicated to volcanoes: "Etna volcano update: Signs of unrest increase." Etna, the site said, "is showing signs of becoming more active again: Over the past few weeks, emissions of gas, steam and sometimes perhaps some dilute ash from the main vent ... have increased. In addition, intermittent weak glow can be detected from the same vent at night."

Volcanologists say the first documented Eta explosion was in 1500 B.C. Its most powerful was in 1669. Its longest in the late 1970s (it lasted for more than a decade), and its latest began in 2007. I hope Etna does not erupt soon but I know it will again, changing forever the landscape that I and my fellow travelers were lucky enough to see and experience in September.       -post by JG

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Italy is not just home to active volcanoes. As a documentary shared by an Italian acquaintance in Albuquerque notes, Italy "is a turbulent land, geologically." In the past year, a series of earthquakes has shaken the country. The Apennines region experienced half a dozen tremors from August to October. Hundreds of people died, thousands of others were left homeless and historic buildings were destroyed. Earlier this month, a luxury hotel in the region of Abruzzo was hit by a 120,000-ton avalanche. Twenty-nine people were killed. If you love Italy like I do, and want to help with relief efforts, you can donate to: the Italy Earthquake Relief Fund started by GlobalGiving, the Italian Red Cross, or a rebuilding fund started by the National Italian American Foundation.

Hotel Del Coronado - Not Your Ordinary Beach Vacation

The Hotel Del Coronado (affectionately known as the Hotel Del) is no ordinary hotel. Built in the late 1880s, it is one of the few remaining classic beach resorts in the United States and is listed on the register of National Historic Landmarks. You just don't find wooden buildings of this size, or of this elegance, at the seaside any more. With its red roofs, turrets, balconies and curves, it is truly the grand dame of beach properties.

The Del comes complete with a fascinating history of visits by past presidents and Hollywood legends, the filming of iconic movies (photos abound of Marilyn Monroe during the filming of "Some Like it Hot" in 1958) and its very own ghost (the lovelorn Kate, who died by her own hand in 1892 and still wanders the Del today). The earliest visitors paid less than $3 per day for room and board. I can promise you that today's prices far exceed that amount, making this a luxury destination indeed.

View of the beach from my room - nice to wake up to this view each morning.

On top of all this, the Del has long stretches of sandy beach, palm trees, beautiful vegetation, a variety of restaurants, a spa, pools and lots of possibilities for "retail therapy."

Seaside vegetation.

The main pool at the Hotel Del.

I recently had the good fortune of staying here, tagging along with a friend who had a business meeting at the hotel. I had a chance to soak up the history, wander the grounds, explore Coronado Island and, most of all, to enjoy walks along the beach with my toes in the water, listening to the sound of breaking waves and marveling at it all.

The sunsets here are spectacular. The sun sinks quickly into the ocean, so mind your weather report when it says that sunset is at 5:08 p.m. because by 5:15, it will be over except for a long lasting post-sunset glow. But oh those few minutes of watching the sun sink into the sea, from the balcony of my room, glass of wine in hand, are magic!

Sunset from the balcony at Hotel Del Coronado.

Everything about this hotel is special - the setting along a beautiful coastline, the mild temperatures (60 degrees in January), the rooms with balconies overlooking the water, the beautiful wood-paneled main lobby with its unique vintage elevator (complete with a uniformed elevator attendant), the gardens, the attentive staff. There is even a sand castle artist who builds intricate and beautiful chateaux on the beach in front of the hotel.

Sand castle on the beach at Hotel Del.

The only downside I found was that the cost puts a stay here out of reach for so many of us (me included - remember I was a tag-along on this trip). Room rates start at around $400/night soaring up to more than double that. The cost of food is also high (think $36 for a fish taco lunch, a $37 breakfast buffet, $6 for a cup of tea, $6 small scoops of ice cream). Though expensive, the food was really good, especially the extensive breakfast buffet with made-to-order omelets, waffles and pancakes, fruit choices from berries to kiwi and melon, a bagel station complete with lox, pastries galore, and really good coffee (a must for me). 

I did find several good restaurants off the hotel property with much more reasonable prices. Two of my favorites were Clayton's Coffee Shop (a throwback '50s diner where the waitresses wear flowers in their hair, the jukebox plays classic songs and the red chairs swivel at the counter). This is a great place for breakfast or lunch - servings are huge and shareable.  

The counter at Clayton's diner.

For lunch, happy hour or dinner, I especially liked Brigantine - a great seafood place with fresh fish, an oyster bar and some really good margaritas.

Fish tacos with coleslaw and house-made chips at the Brigantine.

What a treat a few days here were. I never thought of myself as a "California girl" but who knows, maybe I have a little bit of beach in my soul after all.

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Hotel Del Coronado   hoteldel.com

Sunny with Lots of Ocean

January is the longest month - the holidays are over, I'm home from Italy, and spring seems so very far away. The days are short and the weather can be cold and gloomy. This makes January the perfect time for a mid-winter weekend getaway; somewhere warmer, somewhere fun, and somewhere not too far away from my home in Albuquerque. So I recently headed west with a friend to California and the small beach town of La Jolla.

La Jolla views are incomparable.

There is much to love about La Jolla. To start with, there is all that ocean. To a land-locked desert dweller like me, the ocean is pure magic. Add in a mid-January temperature in the low 60s, bright sunshine, oceanfront parks and walking paths, blooming flowers, interesting architecture, and an all-around vibe that is part causal beach town and part upscale living, and you've got the makings of a great  weekend. Oh, and did I mention the ocean? The sound of the waves is soothing; watching the waves break over the rocky coast is hypnotic. This is my kind of therapy!

Blue water and flowers along the rocky coast. 

An artist paints en plain air along the coast in La Jolla.

My hotel for the weekend was the Grande Colonial, which was charming and pretty with a vintage elegance. It's a short walk to the ocean and the path that stretches from the Children's Pool and Seal Beach to Scripp's Park and La Jolla Cove. This is a rocky coastline interrupted with small sandy beaches and waves breaking in dramatic fashion. It's easy to do low-key R&R here. My weekend was spent walking, watching birds soar overhead, laughing at seals that barked on the rocks and dashed playfully in and out of the water, browsing in the local shops, watching people, and playing the "which house would I buy if I had millions of dollars" game. Mine was right on the ocean with a pretty cottage garden and a gazebo with an endless sea view.

It's easy to spend time watching the seals.

Any good vacation has to include great food, right? Luckily, there were plenty of choices for casual meals with good but not fussy food. Some favorites were:

The Cottage, appropriately named for its setting in a former beach-style house, serves breakfast, brunch and lunch to locals and tourists alike - inside or on the beautiful outdoor patio. It's popular and there can be quite a wait (no reservations taken) but it is absolutely worth it! Sunday brunch of crab Benedict with avocado and a roasted tomato hollandaise was so good that we went back again the next day for breakfast. Not to be missed are the berry smoothies and the lemon ricotta blueberry pancakes. Our server was friendly and helpful and we sure appreciated her advice that most dishes were big enough to share (you would know what an understatement this was had you seen the order of French toast delivered to the family at the next table).  

A half order of crab and avocado Benedict at The Cottage. The kitchen was happy to split this.  

Light and lemony ricotta pancakes with blueberries. Pancake perfection.  

Brick and Bell. This may be the cutest coffeehouse on the west coast, a tiny local spot with a nice patio and a pastry case full of temptations. It wins my vote for best raspberry scones ever.  

Brick and Bell restaurant.

Puesto. It's not a trip to La Jolla without fish tacos. The ones here were fresh and tasty with a light batter, a bit of chile-infused cream, fresh lime and blue corn tortillas. A new flavor for me was the side of esquite - grilled corn cut from the cob and flavored with lime, chile and a soft queso. It's big enough to share, but trust me, you won't want to. 

We just don't get fish tacos like these at home in New Mexico.   

The bar at La Valencia hotel. You don't have to stay in the hotel to have a drink in the bar with one of the best views in La Jolla. Sip away and daydream as you look out over the water.   

The bar at La Valencia is gorgeous ...

... but the view is even better! 

A weekend in La Jolla goes by quickly, but the net relaxation effect makes it feel like you've had a month's rest.  

-post by JB

Near dusk in La Jolla.