Hello April

I know that spring officially starts in late March, but for me it is the first of April that marks the true start of spring.  When the calendar flips to April 1st, I begin to look forward to a month full of blossoms, green leaves sprouting on the trees, and the annual springtime events that take place here in Lucca.

Wisteria in bloom - a sure sign of spring

Usually, the month starts with warming temperatures that hint of beautiful days to come, even if April showers sometimes require umbrellas. But this year gentle April weather has been a little late in arriving. The first week started out downright chilly and windy.  I even needed to turn up my heat on few cold mornings, something I rarely need to do in April.

One Italian social media poster claimed to be uncertain whether Easter lunch should include a Colomba (the traditional Tuscan Easter sweetbread) or a Panettone (which is served at Christmas).  With Easter coming quite early this year, and the chilly temperatures, that is a reasonable question.

Some signs of spring are starting to appear, despite the chill.  For one, wisteria are blooming across town.  That is always one of the best parts of spring.

In the markets, both asparagus and shiny green pea pods have made an appearance.  The shops have been busy as people gathered supplies for Easter lunch.  In Italy that is typically a family affair. For me it meant brunch with good friends.  Some of that gorgeous asparagus was definitely on the menu, along with some pretty yellow freesias from the twice weekly flower market.

Best of all, Easter weekend brought sunshine and the first spring like temperatures. Finally !

The week leading up to Pasqua (Easter) is always busy.  Good Friday was marked by a procession that harkened back to medieval times as it wandered through Lucca, complete with the barefoot men of the Misericordia carrying a large crucifix with stops made at small chapels and roadside shrines.  Ancient and meaningful, with chanting and prayers, it is an integral part of Easter time here. 

In the Duomo (Lucca’s main cathedral), an Easter week visit gave me a chance to see the restoration work that has been completed on the Tempietto del Volto Santo, the small, 15th century temple where Lucca’s 1500+ year old wooden crucifix is usually kept.

The crucifix itself was restored last year and is on display within the cathedral in the workshop were the restoration work took place.

The Tempietto work uncovered layers of history and hidden decorations. Behind where the crucifix usually stands, remnants were uncovered of frescoes that reflect patterns that might have been seen in Lucca’s Medieval era silk works. The inlaid floor, marble altar, and blue starry ceiling are wonderful. All are viewed through the intricate “cage” of the structure.

The Tempietto was just recently opened for public viewing (through April 19th). In early May the process of returning the Volta Santo crucifix to the Tempietto will begin.

On the lighter side of the holiday, Easter displays decorate shop windows and the pastry shops are full of holiday treats - Colombas, fancy decorated cakes, and sweets. And the chocolate shops have no shortage of Easter hens, bunnies, and giant cellophane wrapped eggs.

Preparing the wheel of cheese for the Ruzzolone in Panicale, Pasquetta 2025

An Italian Easter is a two-day affair, continuing today as Pasquetta (Easter Monday).  Pasquetta is a day for fun, friends, and picnics.  Or, as I learned last year when visiting Panicale on that day, a chance to participate in the Ruzzolone, where big wheels of cheese are sent rolling downhill – winner keeps the cheese. 

No such event takes place here in Lucca, so I’ll have a quiet Pasquetta that will certainly require a coffee with friends.

I hope you all had a Buona Pasqua. May you sneak in an extra day to celebrate Pasquetta Italian style.  

Città Vecchia, Trieste

When I mentioned to friends that I was headed to Trieste, I inevitably got two reactions.   First was that it is a wonderful city with really good coffee.  Second was to watch out for La Bora, Trieste’s famously frigid wind which creates havoc as it roars down from the northeast.   During my stay I experienced both. 

The coffee was great, especially when sipped inside one of the city’s historic cafes.  Their elegant settings reminded me of Vienna, which is no surprise since Trieste was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire for centuries.  That influence can be seen throughout Trieste in the grand architecture, large squares, statues, cafes, and even in its culinary traditions.  Triest is a blend of Italy and those Habsburg roots which makes it a unique place to visit. (below, Caffè degli Specchi)

As for the Bora, it struck one day after a week of pleasant weather.  And when I say it struck, that is not an exaggeration.  The cold (with a wind chill down to about 30 degrees) and wind together just about knock you over.  I was very glad to have brought a winter sweater, heavy scarf, gloves, and a warm hat that covered my ears.  Fortunately, the Bora lasted only one day and then we were back to mild weather.

Piazza Venezia

But Trieste is much more than coffee and wind.  The Citta Vecchia runs along the part of Trieste that follows the coastline and is flat before the city heads uphill to Castello San Giusto.  Better still is its long stretch of pedestrian only streets that run from Piazza Venezia through the pretty garden of Piazza Hortis with the statue of Italo Svevo, and to the Piazza Unita d’ Italia which is Trieste’s grand public square (top photo).  Along the way are shops, bars, restaurants, pastry shops, and some interesting meandering side streets.

Locals call the 2 Moors who ring the bell atop the clock tower Michez and Jachez

The centerpiece of the Piazza Unita d’Italia is the 1870’s City Hall with its tall clock tower. Up at the top, two bronze Moors strike the bell to mark time. 

In front of the city hall is the Fontana dei Quatro Continenti (4 Continents Fountain).  Designed in the 1700’s when only 4 continents were known (Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas), each is represented by sculptures at the corners of the fountain.  On top is a winged female figure, facing the sea, who represents Trieste.   

Removed from the piazza in the 1930’s (our guide said that Mussolini ordered it removed because he didn’t like the non-Italian cultures depicted), it was restored and put back in place only about 25 years ago.  Today it is a fountain without water, in part because when the Bora blows the spray of water would turn the piazza into an icy hazard.

Fontana dei Quatro Continenti, the African corner

From Piazza Unita d’Italia the pedestrian path continues through Piazza della Borsa (site of the old Stock Exchange, below).

Then it is on to the Grand Canal and Piazza del Ponterosso (look for the famous statue of James Joyce).  This is the perfect place to end a walk through town with a spritz.

 Further inland from the Gulf, Trieste becomes hilly with a steep climb up to its high point and the Castello San Giusto.   More on that coming up in future posts along with some of Trieste’s Roman History. 

Trieste at First Glance

Looking down on the Gulf of Trieste from our apartment building - a steep 15 minute walk to the Piccolo Università Italiana where we studied for 2 weeks

When a friend writes and suggests meeting in Trieste for some fun and a couple of weeks of language study, there really is only one correct answer - Si !!

That is especially true if Trieste is a city I you’ve never visited, in a part of Italy that you don’t know well. Both were true for me. Not to mention that my Italian grammar is always in need of a tune up, so two weeks of organized and directed study is always a good idea.

Add to the above the fact that Trieste sits right on a big body of water - the Gulf of Trieste. And, where there is a sea there is sure to be seafood. Having lived many years in land-locked New Mexico, anywhere with water and seafood is a big draw. No surprise then that on the first day there we headed to the waterfront for a first glance of the city. Or that my first meal was a wonderful Spaghetti alle Vongole.

Trieste is an important port, not only for Italy but for the central and eastern European countries, several of which have no sea access of their own. The center and surrounding areas are a center for shipping, ship building, and commerce. Trieste also has a harbor for smaller recreational boats. There is just something joyful about seeing all those small boats with their tall masts, even if the still cold weather meant it wasn’t quite sailing seasdurinon yet.

The strip of city along the water is also a place where people go to stroll, for recreation, and for dining. Turn one direction and see tall masts, large ships, and even an impounded Russian yacht which has become a sort of landmark. A series of bronze statues at one of the piers speaks to Trieste’s history.

Look further down the waterfront and find the old Aquarium (now an exhibit space). During my visit the Aquarium was hosting an interesting exhibit of objects made from recycled materials and some gigantic robots who were named for their roles in maintaining the environment.

Turn around and the city begins to unfold before you with ornate buildings, fancy hotels, and a historic square, the Piazza Unita d’Italia. Beautiful by day and even better when lit up at night.

Piazza Unità d’Italia in Trieste

There is even a rather short Grand Canal which leads from the bay a runs a little way into the city. It’s a hint of Venice in Trieste and a great spot for an aperitivo.

Trieste’s Grand Canal once moved goods into the city from the port. Today it is a great place to sit for an aperitivo or begin a walk through the pedestrian areas of Trieste

There is so much more to say about Trieste, but for now I am happy to just appreciate its waterfront.

Fountains

These last few days of winter are the perfect time to think about plans for summer and fall travel.  Deciding where to go is half the fun, but sometimes we need some inspiration.  With that in mind, this week I hope to inspire some European travel plans through …. fountains.   Below: Hinton Ampner, England; Saint-Martin Gardens, Monaco; Piazza de Spagna, Rome

Fountains show up throughout European cities, along streets, in squares, or tucked away in courtyards and gardens.  Some are grand and others small, even utilitarian such as those that provide a water source for a market.  Below: Lyon France, Campo dei Fiori Rome, Basel Switzerland

La Fontana dell Pupporona

Some fountains are meant for daily function – such as here in Lucca where locals use the fountains in the city center to fill water bottles.  Don’t try to tell them that the water is the same in each fountain lest you start a debate about which fountain has the best, freshest, tastiest water!

My favorite fountain in Lucca is the one in Piazza del Salvatore, locally known as La Fontana della Pupporona (loose translation - The Fountain of the Busty Lady).  She is actually a Naiade (water nymph). You may recognize the statue that is integral to this fountain because I’ve written about it in the past and use it as a symbol of this blog.  The fountain has dual roles – it provides a beautiful centerpiece for the piazza which is a local gathering place but is also a favorite place for residents and tourists alike to fill up their water jugs. 

 More elaborate fountains provide spectacular centerpieces around cafes, parks, or piazzas.  The 3 below, in Rome, Padova, and Florence are pretty famous!

 When I travel, I often find myself taking photos of fountains.  And while I have the most photos of fountains in Italy, I also have quite a few from other countries.  Below: Uses, France; Linz, Austria; Vienna, Austria; Aix-en-Provence, France

I hope these fountains will provide some inspiration for all of us as we plan upcoming travels. Or perhaps they will bring memories of past travels.

Ravenna, Giardini Pensili

History and Whimsy in Bratislava

The “UFO” Bridge, Bratislava (from the the Viking Vilhjalm docked nearby)

The city of Bratislavia was just a one day stop on the Danube river cruise I took last fall.  There were interesting cities all along the way – Budapest, Vienna, Krems, Linz, Passau – but perhaps the most delightful was Bratislavia.  And though we only spent one day there (well, just 10 hours to be exact), it was one of my favorite stops.

 You know you have arrived in Bratislava when you spot the “UFO bridge”. This modern bridge spans the Danube and is one of the city’s famous landmarks because of its distinctive asymmetric style with a single pylon topped by a flying saucer-style observation room.   The contrast between the modern bridge and the historic old town is one of the things that makes Bratislava so intriguing. 

Slovak National Theater, Bratislava, opened in 1886, with the Ganymede’s Fountain in front of the entrance.

As with most cities visited on a Viking River Cruise, we had a friendly and knowledgeable local guide.  He provided a great overview of the history of Slovakia, and the capital city of Bratislava.  And what a complex history it is! Long part of Hungary, Bratislava would later be part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, Czechoslovakia after WW I, then briefly independent.  The darkest period came with Nazi occupation.

After WWII, the area merged again with the Czech Republic to form the combined state of Czechoslovakia. A period of Communist rule followed, then occupation by Warsaw Pact troops.  Communist rule ended in 1988-89.  Shortly after that, Czechoslovakia peacefully split into two countries in what is known at the “Velvet Divorce”.  No fighting or bloodshed involved!  Today, Bratislava is the capital city of Slovakia (not to be confused with Slovenia which is a different country all together).  Whew! The guide communicated this history along with a great pride in the country which today is independent with a parliamentary system of government and EU membership.

One day was not nearly enough to really explore Bratislava.  But even this short visit left lasting impressions.  Some highlights: One of my favorite memories of Bratislava is the series of statues found throughout the old town.  These are not statues of historic figures or political leaders (although there are plenty of those too), but rather whimsical and fun statues that just make you smile.  They can be found on street corners and in some of the squares, lending a lightness to the historic town center.

The architecture, with ornate facades and graceful buildings, is also remarkable.  At one time the old part of the city was quite rundown, as can be seen in the one building below that has been left unrestored.  By contract, today the old town is filled with pretty buildings, elegant churches with domed steeples, colorful squares, fountains, and meandering cobbled streets.

St. Martin’s Cathedral is tucked away on a side street, not far from the Danube and just below the castle, in Bratislava’s historic district.  The Gothic cathedral, with its tall steeple clad in green with gold trim, dates to the 1400’s.  For centuries, this is where Hungarian Kings and Queens were crowned. 

St. Martin’s Cathedral

A close look at the tall steeple reveals a golden replica of the crown of Hungary way up at the top.  The interior of the cathedral feels serene, with muted colors, stone columns, wooden accents, and a high ribbed ceiling.   The ceiling was especially intriguing – very different from the bright blue, star filled ceilings often found in Italian churches.  I found its colors and patterns simple and beautiful.

Pharmacy Salvator, Bratislave

Across from the cathedral is The Old Apothecary (Pharmacy Salvator).  The building, from 1904, has a unique angular façade and a well-known statue of Christ the Saviour on the exterior (hence the name Salvator for the Pharmacy). 

The restored pharmacy is filled with objects from both the 1904 pharmacy and an earlier Jesuit pharmacy associated with St. Martins cathedral – including the polished wood cabinetry that lines the space.

The cabinets are filled with antique apothecary jars.  The elaborate ceiling is a recreation of the 1904 pharmacy’s ceiling. The intricately designed mosaic floors are beautiful. In the center of the room sits a large marble topped table perched on 6 stone lions.  It is a historic and beautiful space with echos of past transactions and ancient cures.

My visit to Bratislava may have been short, but it left me with wonderful lasting impressions of this fascinating city.