A Mini-Museum in Lucca

Lucca is not a big museum town.  There are several – Palazzo Mansi, The Paolo Cresci Emigration Museum, Villa Guinigi, the Barsanti and Matteucci, the Duomo Museum.  Most are small and many short-term visitors to Lucca are unaware that some of these even exist. Instead, they spend most of their time on the city walls, in the Medieval streets and squares, and visiting the many churches of Lucca.  Unlike nearby Florence, the museums are not what draw most people to Lucca. There is one newer and very small addition to Lucca’s collection of museums.  It is so small that it is more of a mini-museum.  But it is fascinating!  

It is located underneath Lucca’s historic walls at the Sotterraneo del Baluardo Santa Croce, the under-the-wall passage located where Via delle Conce meets Via San Tommaso in the northwest corner of the city. The passage way itself is fascinating and makes a perfect backdrop to the exhibit.

The content of the mini-museum, which tells the story of Lucca’s walls from the Medieval Period until the Renaissance and beyond, unfolds in a series of displays that line the passageway.  On the left wall is the Italian version, on the right is the story in English. 

It is a unique display, one that begins in the very low light of the darkened passageway and ends in daylight outside the confines of the city walls.  In between, photos and written histories tell the story of the walls from the 1400’s on, the important historical figures, and some of Lucca’s cultural related to the walls and their construction and function.  

Maria Luisa of Bourbon

No history of Lucca’s walls would be complete without acknowledging the role of Maria Luisa of Bourbon, the Duchess of Lucca between 1805 and 1814. It is thanks to her that the walls became a city park, one that is still enjoyed today.

There is also a bit of 19th and 20th century history in the exhibit. Did you know that there was once a threat to knock down portions of the wall to better connect it with the growth of suburbs? Fortunately objections came from all over Italy, including from famous poets and composers (including Puccini) and the plan to disrupt the walls was abandoned.

Later there came a period when the top of the walls became just a city street - filled with cars.  Many of Lucca’s youth learned to drive atop the circle of the walls. And many cars were parked there.  Hard to imagine today that up until the 1980’s the walls were filled with car traffic !

At the midway point of the sotterraneo passage, an interesting video projected on the stone walls tells the story the wall played in protecting Lucca, the times when it closed the city entirely overnight, and how dignitaries, residents and tradespeople entered the walls through Porta San Donato and Porta San Pietro.  The video plays first in Italian and then is repeated in English. It is a great addition to the exhibit.

It does not take long to visit this small space.  It provides a wonderful diversion to anyone using the passage as a way to exit the historic center on their way to the greater part of the city outside of the walls.  But it is also a good destination on its own. I am so glad that a friend pointed me to this fascinating bit of Lucca’s history.

An Ancient Church and an Archangel

Chiesa Sant’Alessandro Maggiore

Lucca has been called the city of 100 Churches.  That number may be a bit of an exaggeration, but Lucca really does have a lot of churches.  Some of the oldest known churches no longer exist, having made way for the expansion of Lucca’s walls, clearing of spaces in front of palazzi, or for other building projects. Still others have been converted to non-religious uses, often performance spaces or art venues.  Others still stand but are no longer used, having been abandoned for many years.  The abandoned ones are the ones that intrigue me – if only I could get a peek inside!  On the rare occasion when one of the abandoned ones is opened for a special purpose, I make it a point to visit.

One such church is Chiesa di Sant’ Alessandro Maggiore.  This one is particularly special because it is the oldest church in Lucca, over 1000 years old, and a classic example of Romanesque architecture.  Modified over the centuries, it retains its plain structure, with a white limestone exterior and a simple three nave interior and small apse.  Relics of Saint Alessandro (Pope Alexander 1), originally placed in the church’s crypt, were later moved to the high altar. I believe they are still there. There are also relics (small bone fragments) on one of the side altars, but I could not find any information about those. A relic mystery !

The church interior is well maintained. Unlike other abandoned churches, this one simply feels like it is having a brief pause.  The floors are black and white marble, arches line the three naves, beautifully carved interior altar rails and marble decorative panels fill the church. 

The main altar and side altars still have their decorative elements and tabernacles.  Polished wood benches and confessionals line the sides of the church and narrow stained glass windows let in just enough light.

The art over the main altar is a fresco by Michele Ridolfi added in the 1800’s when the church underwent restoration.  It is a vibrant panel, with a gold background, showing Saints Alexander and Louis (Alessandro and Ludovico) beside the Madonna and child.  It seems a shame that it is hidden away in mostly unused church.

The church was recently opened to host a photographic exhibit by Lucchese artist Beatrice Speranza.  The exhibit, L’ombra di Michele (Michael’s Shadow), was a series of black and white photos, a perspective on the statue of the Archangel Michael which sits atop a different Lucchese church – the Basilica of San Michele in Foro.

The Archangel Michael is not just any old angel.  He is the highest-ranking angel, God’s warrior, who bested Satan and the band of fallen angels, and he is a saint.  And while he may be sitting atop a basilica here in Lucca, but he is not just a Catholic figure.  He is important in Judaism, Islam, and other Christian faiths – an ecumenical angel, uniting faiths. 

The hinged metal wings are seen here from the back of the statue

The statue in Lucca is nearly 4 meters (about 13 feet) tall, made of marble with metal wings that have aged to a blue green patina. He carries an orb in one hand and in the other a spear which he used to pin a dragon under his feet. That is a typical representation of the Archangel, conquering evil (satan) in the form of a dragon.   Created during the 13th century, the artist is unknown.   

The Ombra di Michele exhibit captures the statue in black and white photography from various angles and heights and also presents the shadows that the angel casts on the surrounding piazza. Many of the smaller photos also have points of embroidery placed on the photos by the artist.  These beg for personal interpretations.  She enhances the presentation with music and narration.  In her words “the Archangel and the dragon, for those who seek to get a glimpse of them amidst the blinding rays of sunlight or through the clouds, serve as a reminder to confront our fears, fragilities, disappointments, and anger.  It seems that St. Michael urges us to acknowledge and manage them, to weigh them carefully, and to cut away what needs to be released”.

The combination of the art, the music, the meaning of the artist’s words, and the ancient church setting created something truly inspiring. 

Blessing The New Wine

Even Lady and the Tramp had a fiasco on their dinner table

It is easy to recognize the classic bottle of a Chianti wine – a fiasco (flask) with a rounded base wrapped in straw.  After all, is there an Italian restaurant in the US that doesn’t have a fiasco on the table, usually topped with a candle and covered in dripping wax?  A fiasco even made an appearance in Disney’s Lady and the Tramp!

Chianti wine is produced in an area of Tuscany that stretches roughly from Florence south to Siena, a specially designated region since the time when the Medici family ruled Florence.  Historically, the classic straw wrapped bottles were made in the city of Florence, creating a special relationship in which the Florentine bottles were sent to the wineries outside of the city where the new Chianti was bottled, and then the filled bottles were sent back to merchants in Florence.  Of course, this transport began long before there were trucks to move the bottles back and forth, so how did the wine bottles return to Florence after they were filled? 

The Carro Matto arrives to Florence’s Duomo

In centuries past, the new wine was brought from the countryside on an ox cart.  Once in Florence, the wine was blessed by the church and the first bottles presented to city leaders.  Then It was time to celebrate.

Today, the tradition of blessing the new Chianti is celebrated on the last Saturday in September when the Carro Matto (crazy cart) procession takes place.  Once pulled by oxen, this year it was a tractor that pulled the cart which was piled high with over 1000 bottles of wine in the classic fiaschi. 

The procession began in front of the Duomo and moved down Via Calzaiuoli.  Along the way it made a brief stop at the small Church of San Carlo dei Lombardi, very near the part of the city where a traditional maker of the flasks (a fiascaio) would have had his workshop.  The procession ended in Piazza Signoria where a fiasco was presented to city leaders.  In the 1400 and 1500’s the first bottle might have gone to a Medici – today it was given to the elected mayor. 

Accompanying the Carro Matto were people dressed in historic costumes, helmeted guards, musicians, and the Bandierai degli Uffizi (traditional flag bearers) who delighted the crowd with their flag-throwing.  Women carried individual fiaschi to be presented to the dignitaries. 

Crowds watched as the cart made its way along the route, looking as if the bottles could topple at any minute.  A crazy cart indeed.   Fortunately, the bottles remained in place, the wine was blessed, and the celebrations continued.  Time to toast the new wine with a glass of Chianti!    

Hard to believe this doesn’t topple over!

A Stroll Through Montefalco

Umbria is known for producing olive oil, wine, and grains

Umbria is a part of Italy that is completely landlocked. What it lacks in coastline it makes up for in rolling hills, fields of grains, bright poppies in springtime, olive groves, vineyards, and its many hill towns. 

Some of the hill towns, such as Spello, Assisi, and Perugia, are well known and attract many visitors.  Others are smaller and quieter, with fewer tourists. Those small towns, Panicale, Rasiglia, and Bevagna for example, are especially delightful.  

On a recent trip to Umbria, after a morning of farmhouse cooking and a visit to a winery, we (a group from Let’s Cook in Umbria) made a quick detour to the village of Montefalco, not far from Bevagna. Montefalco is small (less than 6,000 residents), quiet, and uncrowded. It is a slice of everyday Italy.

Montefalco is on the list of the Borghi Più Belli d’Italia (Italy’s most beautiful villages).  A walled hill town, it still has its Medieval gates and streetscape. 

Old stone buildings, pretty windows, and flowers are part of Montefalco’s charm

It also has a most enviable location – perched high above the surrounding valley with panoramic views of the Umbrian countryside and, most importantly, of the Sagrantino vineyards.   Montefalco Sagrantino DOC, a bold, dry red wine, is the areas claim to fame and a must-try when in this area.

We began our walk through Montefalco at the Belvedere Viewpoint near Porta della Rocca, one of the Medieval gates into the town. It has spectacular views over the valley below, making it clear why Montefalco is known as the Balcony of Umbria.

The Piazza del Comune is the heart of the village and where the town hall is located.  It is also where many cafes can be found and where the market and various festivals take place. Just before the piazza is the Church & Museum of San Francesco. I’ll have to explore that on a future visit!

Heading downhill towards Porta di Sant’Agostino, one of Montefalco’s Medieval gates.

From the piazza, a wander down “main street” reveals a street lined with shops, galleries, a small hotel, and restaurants.  Lots of opportunities to buy a bottle of Sagrantino or other local products. Keep walking and find Porta di Sant’Agostino, another of the town’s Medieval gates.

Small lanes branch out from the central street, many of them filled with stone houses, flower filled windows, arched alleyways, and pretty doors. As a bonus, they often end with stunning views over the valleys below.

Our detour to Montefalco gave us only enough time for a brief introduction to the town.  I will need a return trip and more time to better explore all that the village has to offer. One thing is clear to me, the more time I spend in Umbria, the more I fall in love with this unique part of Italy.

Now that is my kind of Farmacia!

Walking Through Lucca’s History

In Italian, the verb rievocare means to recall, commemorate, or evoke.   Lucca is, for the most part, a Medieval city.  That history can be recalled easily in the current street plan, Medieval towers, and the many churches from that era that can be found throughout town.  To “rievocare” that Medieval history is easy. 

There are of course vestiges of earlier eras, the outline of a Roman amphitheater, remnants of the Roman wall, and some remarkable Roman ruins lying under churches and houses.  The later Renaissance history can also be spotted, most clearly in the walls that surround the historic city center.   But when it comes to celebrating historical events, it is usually the Medieval period that is recreated through costumes, processions, music, and competitions.

How would one even go about planning an event that would recall the broader scope of Lucca’s history?  From before the Roman era and through the period at the end of World War II?   Well, fortunately, someone decided to do just that, and in late May a festival took place – Rievocando Lucca, A Festival of History.

A call to arms for Roman soldiers

 The event took place on the city walls, a perfect way to present, in chronological order, a series of vignettes tracing Lucca’s history from pre-Roman/Etruscan times through the city’s liberation at the end of WWII.  Each stop along the walls featured costumed actors, period specific crafts and weapons, and representations of daily life during the time period.  The actors were a wealth of information, explaining the displays, answering questions, and demonstrating the use of tools and weapons.

 Some highlights:

The Roman Legionaires made camp along one section of the wall and they were fierce!  Dressed for battle, armed, and bearing shields, they made an impressive sight during the commander’s morning call to arms.  Marching through town one evening, they caused quite a stir with their chants and battle cries. 

 In the Medieval village, a candlemaker described the process and coloring agents used in making her candles. Nearby, a woodcarver demonstrated his skills.   The Medieval costumes were beautiful too.

Piazza Napoleone and the Ducal Palace, both created by Elisa Bonaparte.

 Napoleon also left a mark on Lucca’s history – gifting the city to his sister Elisa who ruled as the Princess of Lucca and Piombino in the early years of the 1800’s.  Her influence can still be seen in Lucca -  the largest piazza is the Piazza Napoleone and it sits in front of the Palazzo Ducale, the palace Elisa Bonaparte built.

 For the Rievocando festival, a Napoleonic camp was filled with French soldiers in their colorful uniforms.   Alongside were a group of French ladies taking tea, as they might have done once upon a time in the Palazzo Ducale.

 The final vignette was of WWII, during a time when American and Brazilian troops played an important role in and around Lucca.  It was American Buffalo soldiers who entered Lucca in September 1944, ending the occupation by Nazi forces.   

 Also fun was walking around town and seeing the many costumed participants having lunch or strolling the walls.  The weekend event provided little glimpses of Lucca as it once was.