Museo Nazionale del Bargello

One of many statues in the courtyard of the Bargello, this one, from 1579 by Domenico Poggini, is particularly lovely

I could spend the next 20 years in Florence and still not have studied all the art that can be found there.  There is so much to experience - in public buildings, palaces, churches, and museums - that it can be overwhelming, especially if trying to see as much as possible on a short visit. How fortunate it is to spend most of the year just an hour or so away in Lucca, making it easy to return over time, taking in a new museum, seeing just a few artistic highlights, or returning to a favorite place.

One place that I have returned to over the years is the Museo Nazionale del Bargello.  There are many things to love about the Bargello; it is one of my favorite museums anywhere in the world.

First, the history.  Constructed in the 13th century as Florence’s first public building, it began its existence as a place to protect the rights of the people.  Over its long history it has served many purposes and experienced many periods of destruction and rebuilding. After its noble beginning, the palazzo was later used as a justice hall and later a prison.  Political prisoners were tried, jailed, and executed here up until the late 1700’s when the death penalty was banned. Perhaps the most famous political convict was Dante. He received a death sentence here in the year 1302; luckily he had fled Florence and the sentence was never carried out. Instead, he was exiled from Florence.   

The courtyard, looking up to the loggia

Since 1865 the palazzo has served as a museum, housing treasures created by some of Italy’s most famous artists.  Even before viewing the art, the palazzo is magnificent for its architecture.  Standing in the courtyard, with it’s central well, coats of arms, and grand staircase, and looking up toward the first-floor loggia, is a wonder.  Many of the pieces here are recreations of works that had been destroyed during the years when the Bargello served as a prison. 

Ammannati’s Juno Fountain, 1555. (Juno and the peacocks are copies)

Detail, courtyard ceiling

Other pieces were relocated here from various buildings in Florence, including the Juno fountain which was originally meant for the Palazzo Vecchio. Over time it was deconstructed and the 8 statues scattered to different locations. Now, with all the figures reunited, it is a perfect fit in the Bargello’s grand courtyard. 

The courtyard is a peaceful spot to sit and enjoy the start of a visit to this wonderful and generally uncrowded museum. Informational signs, in English, provide an overview of the buildings history, a good beginning to any visit.

The floors above the courtyard hold an abundance of treasures.  I think of the Bargello as primarily a sculpture museum, for it is the sculpture that pulls me back time and again.  The sculptures include a who’s who list of Italy’s most famous artists – Bernini, Donatello, Cellini, Michaelangelo, Verrocchio, Giambologna. 

Bronze Birds by Giambologna, c. 1570

Many of the most famous works can be found in the Donatello Room, originally the palazzo’s grand hall, including both a bronze and a marble David by Donatello. While this room showcases several works by Donatello, others are also represented including the competition pieces by Brunelleschi and Ghiberti for the Baptistery doors. The Donatello room is newly refurnished, with this David right in the center.

A bronze David by Donatello, c.1440 (the marble St. George in the background is also by Donatello)

There is much more to see at the Bargello in addition to sculpture.  There are Della Robbia glazed ceramics, paintings, decorative arts, ivories and paintings. 

A small chapel, with frescoes by Giotto, was where prisoners would be given last rites prior to their execution. Today, it houses religious artifacts including an intricate carved choir lectern.

Il Pescatore (The Fisher Boy), Vincenzo Gemito 1877

The photos here are just a hint of what can be found in the Bargello.  So many visitors to Florence head to the Accademia to see the David and the Uffizi for the famous paintings, and both are wonderful.  But to miss the Bargello is a shame. 

The art there can be viewed close up – but don’t be like the tourists I saw reach beyond the rope to touch a marble statue!  The guard was right on that and after she scolded them she looked at me, shook her head, and said “every day there is at least one like that”.  I would hate to see all these wonderful works of art get hidden behind glass enclosures because of visitors who don’t keep their hands to themselves. 

As they are displayed today, it is a joy to be able to walk around each piece, admiring the different angles and perspectives. I am headed back to Florence for a week’s stay at the end of October with a friend who is a first time visitor.  You can bet the Bargello is one of the places we will go.

The Dancing Cherub, a more playful Donatello

The Doors of Umbria

Umbria is full of Medieval hill towns, each with its own character and charm. Every village is unique in character but they all have in common their beautiful architecture. I am drawn to the details of the buildings, especially the many gorgeous doors. Umbria is a good place to find those special details.

I took a lot of photos during a week spent exploring Umbria this past spring and many of them featured doors. Some were worn and neglected, some were beautifully cared for. Many were surrounded by plants and flowers. Here are some of my favorites.

(The windows were pretty spectacular too, but I’ll save those for next week)

Assisi

Bevagna

Orvieto

Panicale

Spello

Do you have some favorite Italian door photos ? I’d be happy to see them on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page!

Rasiglia, An Enchanted Village in Umbria

A bit off the tourist trail in Umbria, in the hills surrounding the commune of Foligno, sits a magical place – the small hamlet of Rasiglia. This Medieval village is unique in that spring-fed streams run through town creating rushing waterways, pools, and waterfalls. The streams cascade downhill through the village, eventually joining the river Menotre at the base of the hill.

The streams in Rasiglia flow downhill from springs above the village. The largest spring is the Capovena at the top of the hill..

Because of those streams, which seem to outnumber the 50 or so permanent residents, Rasiglia is also known as Il Borgo dei Ruscelli (the Village of Streams). A visit to this village was top of my to-see list during a recent stay in Umbria. Only about a 30 min drive from my base in Bevagna, it made for a perfect day trip.

The streams flow through town, sometimes tumbling down the rocks and other times pausing to fill small basins.

Remants of the fortress that once stood at the top of Rasiglia

With origins in the 12th century, Rasiglia was once a fortified town. Now, little remains of the original fortress although remnants of a tower can be seen at the top of the village.

Most important to the town’s history, the streams that flow from the springs above the village provided the power used to run its mills and also provided the water needed for the weaving and dyeing of wool, an important industry in the region.

Today, visitors can wander through the historic town enjoying the beauty and sound of its many streams along with the pretty houses and flower filled spaces tucked in amid the flowing waters. There are also cafes and lunch spots, offering a charming spot for a mid-day pause.

Not to be missed are the historic grain mill and the weaving museum. Both give fascinating glimpses into Rasiglia’s history.

While Umbria has many beautiful, and much more famous, towns it was Rasiglia that most delighted me, transporting me for one day to a fairytale world where streams run through an ancient hamlet.

High Above Bologna

Bologna is a fabulous place to visit. With its miles of porticos, Medieval buildings, ancient churches, historic university, fountains, beautiful piazzas, and its very own leaning tower, it makes for a fabulous stop on any northern Italian itinerary. And then there is the food. Bologna is where filled pasta takes center stage along with salumi of all types and gorgeous aged Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. It is a food lover’s mecca.

Going through the Porta Saragozza on the train to the Santuario.

But high above the city lies something that many visitors miss – the Santuario della Beata Vergine di San Luca (Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca). And that’s a shame, because it is a place of beauty and history. 

The Santuario lies 4.9 km (about 3 miles) from Bologna’s city center, up a series of steep portico lined steps that begin just beyond the historic 13th century city gate of Porta Saragozza. To make the walk is to undertake a pilgrimage, one not for the faint of heart (or weak of knees).

But there is another option – a small train departs from Piazza Maggiore in the historic center of Bologna and whisks passengers (well, more accurately it chugs slowly up the hill) along the portico and up to the Santuario. I normally avoid little tourist trains, but I make an exception for this one which stops right at the base of the Santuario’s broad terrace. After visiting the church, riders can catch the train back to town. Tickets cost €13 and the journey up to the church takes about 25 minutes.

The arches of the portico leading up to the Santuario. There are 666 arches total leading from Bologna city up the hill to the Santuario.

The portico itself is fascinating. Built beginning in 1674, it has 666 arches under which are several tiny chapels (once upon a time there were many more). Each year, in May for the Feast of the Ascension, the Byzantine Icon of the Madonna of San Luca is carried through the portico down to the city where it remains for one week at the Cattedrale di San Pietro (Cathedral of St. Peter, Bologna’s main church).  The icon then makes a return pilgrimage, up the portico, to the Santuario. The portico protects the icon from the elements during its journey down and back up the hill. Even for the non-religious, this is a fascinating slice of Italian history and culture.

Just one of the fabulous views from the Santuario atop the Monte del Guardia.

The Madonna of San Luca (from the website of the Santuario della Beata Vergine)

The Santuario sits on a hill, the Monte del Guardia. Its terrace offers panoramic views of the countryside, the hills, and the city of Bologna.  

The church was built on the site of a female hermitage for the purpose of housing the icon of the Madonna. The icon, which first arrived to Bologna in the 13th century, was originally cared for on this site by the nuns of the hermitage.

Consecrated in 1765, the original building has evolved and changed over the centuries. The current church, with its columns, marble, and gold trimmings, is quite ornate. It is filled with beautiful paintings and sculptures. Seeing art inside churches, where it was intended to be displayed, is always the best venue for appreciating the work. The art in the Santuario is no exception.

When visiting the church, definitely look up. The frescoed arches above the main and side altars are wonderful as are the large hanging lanterns. The small cupola, painted by the Florentine artist Cassioli in the early 1900’s, is lovely.

The setting of the Santuario is quiet and peaceful. The views are wonderful. The history is one of ancient legends and devotions. It is unique and fascinating, a not-to-be-missed place when visiting Bologna.

Prato’s Museo del Tessuto (Textile Museum)

Tuscany is not all rolling hills, art, vineyards, olive groves, and Medieval streetscapes.  A different Tuscany presents itself in the city of Prato. While Prato does have a historic center worth exploring, it is better known as the center of a thiving textile and fashion industry. 

Displays in the Textile Museum recount the history of cloth making and the fashion industry in Prato, including the role of Chinese immigrants.

The creation of textiles in Prato goes back to the 12th century, but it was the industrial revolution of the late 1800’s which fostered the growth of the industry.  Another boom period came with the end of World War II when Prato became one of Europe’s largest districts for textile and clothing manufacturing. Prato’s role in textiles and fashion continues today, in large part supported by the Chinese immigrants who began arriving in the early 1990’s. 

The history of textiles in Prato is celebrated in a small but fascinating and well-curated museum, The Museo del Tessuto. Established 50 years ago, the museum is now housed in a historic building – the former Compolmi textile factory. The factory was opened in 1863 by Vicenzo and Leopoldo Compolmi in a building that formerly housed a mill (and before that a convent). One of the fascinating aspects of the museum is seeing the former factory’s collection of machinery used in the manufacturing process along with implements used during different periods of manufacturing. 

Displays throughout the museum explain the evolution of fashion and style as well as materials used during different time periods. There are displays on types of fabrics, materials used to spin thread, and agents for coloring fabric. Many of the educational displays are hands on, giving visitors the ability to feel how different raw materials are to the touch. I owe these displays a big thank you for most of the info contained in this post.

Recently, I had a chance to visit the museum and see two special exhibits.  One, Silk Treasures, showcases fabric, small remnants, larger pieces, and intact garments, from the 15th – 18th centuries. Many were originally designed for Europe’s wealthy class and later recycled into garments worn by the clergy. The fabrics are woven with gold and silver threads as well as intense blues and reds, forming intricate and beautiful patterns. That they have survived for centuries seems like a miracle. The Silk Treasures exhibit will be on display until December 21, 2025.

The second special exhibit is quite different.  It is a contemporary and futuristic display of clothing crafted from velvet fabrics.  Entitled Velvet Mi Amor, it was created by father and daughter designers Stefano and Corinna Chiassai.

The Velvet Mi Amor exhibit has an eye-catching group of patterns, colors, and textures.

The exhibit, which runs through June 8th, includes 24 otherworldly figures clothed in a diverse range of velvets – prints, patterns, inlays, and laser cuts all have a place.  The oversize pants, jackets, shoes and hats, all in velvet, pull you in to take a closer look. You may even find some hidden messages in the patterns.   

Prato is easily reached by train in about 30 minutes from Florence or 60 minutes from Lucca.  The museum, including its well-stocked gift shop, is definitely worth a visit. And Prato, which hosts Italy’s second largest Chinese population, is just the place for a post-museum Chinese food lunch.

The gift shop at Museo del Tessuto