Cooking with Raffaella

If you’ve ever dreamed of living on an Italian fattoria (farm) and cooking in a farm kitchen, then Raffaella’s kitchen is just what you’ve dreamed of.

Located in the Umbrian countryside near Perugia, Raffaella Bucefalo and her husband Roberto run Agriturismo La volpe e l’uva, which has several simple yet charming farmhouse style cottages surrounded by shaded pergolas, beautiful lawns, pots of flowers, and an inviting swimming pool.  Of course there are also olive trees and vines as the farm produces its own wine and olive oil.

The agriturismo is also the location of the cooking school Let’s Cook in Umbria, where Raffaella teaches traditional Umbrian dishes.  The cooking school is what is what drew me to La volpe e l’uva in June.

I spent 3 days cooking with Raffaella and 6 other students in her charming farmhouse. The classes are hands-on, with no more than 8 people in a group, which makes for lots of individual instruction and plenty of opportunities to measure, mix, knead, and shape pasta. As well as make sauces, meats, and cakes in an authentic Umbrian home. 

Our group consisted of my long-time friends Susan and Jim, plus four fun ladies from the US (Gay, Cathy, Vicky, and Kristi) who quickly felt like new friends, and me.  There was a lot of laughter around the farmhouse worktable as we practiced new skills, crafted new dishes, and discovered new must-have kitchen tools. Each day our efforts were rewarded with a 4-course meal in Raffaella’s beautiful dining room or outside in the garden.

The best thing about Let’s Cook in Umbria is Raffaella herself.  She is a wonderful teacher - energetic, fun, with a great sense of humor. She provided encouragement, and occasional cries of “oh no, disastro”, as we learned to make various types of pasta, doing it all by hand.  Even our disasters were fun and by the end of the week “oh no, disastro” became our rallying cry.

Each day we made an appetizer - fabulous little melanzane (eggplant) parmigiana stacks, flat breads stuffed with either prosciutto or arugula and cheese, and a thin focaccia baked with cheese inside.  I would be hard pressed to pick a favorite. All are recipes that I will make at home

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We made a different type of pasta each day.  The first was strangozzi, a typical Umbrian pasta made with semolina flour, salt, water and a touch of olive oil.  As we kneaded it, Raffaella introduced us to the kneading song.  Exactly 2 ½ minutes long, we had to knead “with energy” for the length of the song.  There just may have been some spontaneous dancing too. After kneading and resting the dough, we used a chitarra to cut the pasta.  Chitarra in Italian means guitar and a chitarra has metal wires like the strings of a guitar.  The pasta dough is placed on the strings, rolled to cut the pasta, and then when you strum the strings, out falls the pasta. I think I earned my official Italian Nonna badge using the chitarra. To go with the strangozzi we made a sausage ragu – delicious!

Day two we made tagliatelle, an egg-based pasta which we rolled and cut by hand.  Raffaella taught a method of rolling the dough to the required thinness that was new to us all (no cheating with a pasta machine!) and one I want to try again at home.  A simple zucchini and speck sauce was perfect with the tagliatelle.

Our third pasta dish was gnocchi made with potatoes and flour. Gnocchi can be tricky to make but, with Raffaella’s guidance, ours were soft and delicate. The fresh tomato sauce made it a perfect light dish for a summer meal.

I think we could have made a whole meal out of each of the pastas, but a second course was also on the menu.  Day one we made a delicious chicken with peppers.  Day two, Umbrian special occasion polpette (meatballs).  The ingredients sounded a bit strange to me – they included orange zest and finely chopped raisins, not things I’ve ever seen in polpette recipes before. But the taste was wonderful with just a touch of sweetness from the raisins and a subtle hint of citrus.  They were served in a simple tomato sauce.

The last meat dish was a pan roasted pork tenderloin with grapes, shallots, juniper berries, fresh bay leaves, and white wine. The scent of it cooking was hunger-inducing and the grapes cooked down with the herbs and wine to make a lovely sauce. This would make a perfect special occasion meal.

I arrived the day before the cooking class began, and a piece of cake baked that morning by the previous guests was in my cottage for breakfast. I appreciated their efforts to make this peach cake.

Lastly, a dolce (sweet).  Each day we made a different cake, having a piece for dessert and saving some for breakfast the next morning. 

It’s hard to beat a cup of coffee, a slice of not-too-sweet cake, a seat under a shady portal, bird song, the smell of jasmine in bloom, and a view of an Umbrian hillside as a way to start the day.

Day one, and my personal favorite, was a carrot cake with lemon glaze.  Ground nuts gave the cake a wonderful texture. The lemon glaze kept it light and more tangy than sweet. 

Next up was a chocolate cake with pears.  Tender and not too sweet, it was delicious topped with a little cream.

Lastly, a crostata with ricotta and strawberries.  Ok – maybe this was my favorite.  Can I have more than one favorite? 

After each lunch we had a short rest and then headed off for some fun.  One afternoon we went to Col Santo winery for a tasting, another to Frantoio Decimi for an olive oil tasting and to a ceramics producer in Deruta where we had a demonstration and a chance to try shaping the clay.  

Raffaella is a joy - I miss her already!

As if the cooking and dining together were not enough, our course was one of Let’s Cook in Umbria’s seasonal courses.  In this case the seasonal special event was the Infiorata in Spello.  It took place on the last day of our time with Raffaella and so on that day we went to Spello early in the morning (transportation and a guide included in our cooking program) and cooked in the afternoon for an evening meal. The Infiorata is a truly spectacular event (see post from June 15th). It was a lovely way to end our time in Umbria.

I can’t say enough wonderful things about Let’s Cook in Umbria.  Raffaella is a joy.  I learned new skills and new dishes, ones that I can make at home.  And really, is there anything more satisfying than making perfect pasta by hand?

The shared meals were wonderful.  And leftover cake for breakfast? What a treat.  The small group was a delight.  The extra curricula excursions were fun.  The setting in the Umbrian countryside was beautiful.  It was a delightful and memorable experience.

To find more information or to schedule a class, visit the website for Let’s Cook in Umbria.   www.cookinumbria.it

Raffaella also has a cookbook: Sprinkle with Flour. It is available on Amazon. I can hardly wait for my copy to arrive.

A big thanks to Gay, Cathy, Vicky, Kristi, Jim, and Susan for graciously allowing me to use photos from our work in the kitchen! I would travel with this group anywhere, anytime. They helped make this a fantastic few days of cooking together.

The Colorful Month of June

Agriturismo La Volpe e l’Uva, near Perugia. I sure enjoyed my morning coffee on this patio.

I’ve spent time the past couple of weeks in both Tuscany and Umbria, enjoying the late spring / early summer that is one of the loveliest of seasons in Italy.  Temperatures are quite warm (but not yet uncomfortably hot) during the day, with cool mornings and evenings.  A perfect beginning to “aperitivo season” when the evenings are ideal for enjoying a get together with friends sitting outside on a lively piazza.  Bright orange Aperol Spritzes are now dotting tables everywhere, adding a definite burst of summer color.

One of the best things about June in Italy is the range of colors painted by nature as the trees and vines get their leaves and the flowers bloom.  Look closely and you can find small clusters of grapes forming, the earliest hints of olives, and tiny figs that hold the promise of August sweetness.  The scent of Jasmine in bloom is the best sort of perfume.

 The countryside is stunning as the bright yellow blooms of Ginestra (in English we would call it Scottish or Spanish Broom) mingle with the greens of the vines and olive trees.

The beautiful countryside near Perugia in Umbria filled with Ginestra in bloom

 In towns, flowers fill window boxes and pots.  They spill over walls, sneak into crevices, and take over abandoned doorways.

Lucca in June

 Even the railroad tracks are dressed up by the last of the spring poppies.

 In Lucca, the garden of Palazzo Pfanner is the place to go for the best variety of colors and flower varieties.  Especially stunning are the rows of hortensia (hydrangea) in white, pink, blue, and purple.

 I enjoyed seeing June burst into color in Italy.  Next up for me will be the desert blooms of New Mexico; I’ll enjoy those until I return to Lucca in a few weeks.

One Day in Spello

Spello just may be the perfect Umbrian hill town. 

It has layers of history - old Roman gates, ancient city walls, and meandering streetscapes lined with Medieval sandstone houses. Art filled churches stand atop pre-Christian temples.  

Small artisan galleries and shops line the streets in the historic center. And the flowers! It seems that every street, window, doorstep, and wall are filled with green plants and flowers. Then there are the views. Situated high on a hill, the vistas are wide, green, and gorgeous. No wonder Spello is included in the list of I Borghi Più Belli d’Italia (The most beautiful villages in Italy).  

Two gastronomic things add to Spello’s charm – wine and olive oil. The local wine is Sagrantino, a bold red. The olive oil is also bold – a stronger, spicier variety than the Tuscan oils I am used to. Made from Moraiolo olives, the flavor was wonderful. I had a chance to sample both during lunch at Enoteca Properzio, a great place for tasting both the wines and olive oils with lots of info provided by the staff. Thanks to J. Gorwoda for some of the photos below. I was so busy enjoying my pasta that I forgot to snap any other photos at the restaurant.

With only 1 day to spend in Spello during a week exploring Umbria, I didn’t have a chance to fully explore all that the city has to offer.   The highlights of the day included:

• Wandering the steep and winding Medieval streets. Spello is full of twisting alleys, courtyards, and squares. One alley, the Vicolo dei Baci, must see lots of kissing couples. The architecture throughout town is lovely, and everywhere there are flowers.

• The Baglioni Chapel in the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. The interior of the chapel is stunning and filled with frescoes by Pinturicchio.  One problem – no photographs are allowed.  It took all my willpower to leave my camera in my purse. The photos below are from the web. Best to see it in person!

Just outside the Baglioni chapel is a small garden, Giardiano Hortus. A graceful gate marks the entrance; a series of brick arches the perimeter. It’s a quiet, simple space that made for a perfect break in the afternoon. Also fun watching this little boy picking a wild flower for his mom.

One thing I did not get to see during my visit was Spello’s famous Infiorata, the festival of flowers that marks the feast of Corpus Domini (Body of Christ).  Many towns have infiorate on this day, but Spello’s is one of the most famous. For the festival, the streets are carpeted with elaborate designs made of flowers. Teams plan their designs for months and work through the preceding night to create the displays. The date changes from year to year, generally held on the 9th Sunday after Easter. This year it was on June 21-22, in 2026 it should fall earlier in June, the 6 – 7th. I hope to be there to experience the Infiorata and to explore Spello in greater depth. There is so much more to see.

Street art in Spello proclaims that happiness is contagious. I agree!

Rasiglia, An Enchanted Village in Umbria

A bit off the tourist trail in Umbria, in the hills surrounding the commune of Foligno, sits a magical place – the small hamlet of Rasiglia. This Medieval village is unique in that spring-fed streams run through town creating rushing waterways, pools, and waterfalls. The streams cascade downhill through the village, eventually joining the river Menotre at the base of the hill.

The streams in Rasiglia flow downhill from springs above the village. The largest spring is the Capovena at the top of the hill..

Because of those streams, which seem to outnumber the 50 or so permanent residents, Rasiglia is also known as Il Borgo dei Ruscelli (the Village of Streams). A visit to this village was top of my to-see list during a recent stay in Umbria. Only about a 30 min drive from my base in Bevagna, it made for a perfect day trip.

The streams flow through town, sometimes tumbling down the rocks and other times pausing to fill small basins.

Remants of the fortress that once stood at the top of Rasiglia

With origins in the 12th century, Rasiglia was once a fortified town. Now, little remains of the original fortress although remnants of a tower can be seen at the top of the village.

Most important to the town’s history, the streams that flow from the springs above the village provided the power used to run its mills and also provided the water needed for the weaving and dyeing of wool, an important industry in the region.

Today, visitors can wander through the historic town enjoying the beauty and sound of its many streams along with the pretty houses and flower filled spaces tucked in amid the flowing waters. There are also cafes and lunch spots, offering a charming spot for a mid-day pause.

Not to be missed are the historic grain mill and the weaving museum. Both give fascinating glimpses into Rasiglia’s history.

While Umbria has many beautiful, and much more famous, towns it was Rasiglia that most delighted me, transporting me for one day to a fairytale world where streams run through an ancient hamlet.

April in Umbria

One of the Medieval gates leading into the historic center of Bevagna.

Umbria is an Italian region that is entirely inland – it does not touch the Adriatic, the Mediterranean, or the Tyrrhenian seas.  But lacking a seacoast does not mean that Umbria is without dramatic and fascinating landscapes.  The region is full of green valleys, medieval hill towns, olive groves, vineyards, and fields of flowers and legumes.

Even though I live just a short distance away in Tuscany, Umbria was not a region I had explored in any depth.  That changed recently when I spent Easter week based in the small Umbrian town of Bevagna. 

Just outside of Bevagna’s walled city is Le Case, one of two little houses set amid the vines of La Fonte Azienda Agricola.  The setting is quiet, peaceful, and lovely, providing the perfect base for exploring Umbria.  The agriturismo is run by the Trabalza Marinucci family, parents Patrizia and Guido and adult children Giulia and Francesco.  The family also includes 4 outdoor cats, a dog, and two goats.  They (the people, not the goats) are fabulous hosts who also offer wine tastings and aperitivo in the cantina located on the property.  And though I have always considered myself more of a city person, there was something about starting my days in the Umbrian countryside, overlooking the vineyards and surrounding hills, that was just perfect.  I will miss the views from “my” little house in Umbria and the feeling of inner peace that I felt among the vines!

Of course, it is not possible to explore all of Umbria in one visit, and there were many places we did not get to on this week-long trip.  But my friend and I made a good start at getting to know the region and found some unique experiences along the way.  Just one example is the historic Pasquetta (Easter Monday) Ruzzolone, a cheese rolling competition in the town of Panicale (more about that in an upcoming post).

April in Umbria is a time of misty mornings, afternoon showers, and stunning sunsets. 

A foggy morning outside of Bevagna, from La Fonte

April is also when poppies bloom.  They pop up along roadsides, in stone walls, at the edges of vineyards, and sometimes they fill big open fields.  To me, poppies are one of the best parts of spring. Seeing them is always a joyful reminder of the changing season.

Also in bloom in April are fields of yellow blooming rapeseed (used to make canola oil) along with a host of other flowers.  Queen Anne’s lace, lilac, Jupiter’s beard, wild mustard, little violets, wisteria, and tiny white daisies were everywhere.  Pink and white blossoms filled trees and wild figs had just the smallest figs beginning to grow. The hardest part of driving through Umbia was not stopping every mile to take a photo.

In April, the vines are just beginning to sprout leaves. Over just a week’s time we could see them getting bigger.  At the agriturismo they were already at work tending the vines.  La Fonte has several vineyards, some older and some newer vines, and different varieties of grape.  The leaves in the various fields were growing leaves at different rates.  The same was true of all the vineyards as we drove from valley to hillside – growth was very much determined by setting.

I will be writing more about specific towns over time, but today I hope you enjoy a bit of spring time in Umbria.

This little guy was happily picking wild flowers in a little garden in Spello.