Monticchiello: A Medieval Village in Tuscany

Italy is now struggling with a second wave of COVID-19 infections. Each week since the end of October seemed to bring a new governmental decree with tighter restrictions. As I write this, in mid-November, Tuscany has quickly progressed from the yellow zone (lowest risk) to the orange zone (moderate risk) and now to the dreaded red zone (highest risk). At present, travel outside of the comune (municipal area) of Lucca is forbidden except for urgent reasons. I was fortunate to be able to travel to the Val d’Orcia in south central Tuscany just before the current restrictions went into effect. Right now, such a trip would be impossible. So, while currently under lockdown in Lucca, over the next few weeks I will share glimpses into some of the small towns and hilltop villages I encountered during my week in the Val d’Orcia.

To begin this series, let’s start with a place that seems to come straight from the pages of a medieval story book, the fortress-like hamlet of Monticchiello.

Stone buildings line medieval streets in the fortified hamlet of Monticchiello

A bit of history: the settlement here is old - dating back to Etruscan times. The current fortress dates to the 1200’s. Today, Monticchiello is the most serene of places, but its history tells a different story. The fortress was part of the defenses of the Republic of Siena (long before there was a country called Italy) making it a 13th century pawn in the conflicts between Siena and Montepulciano. Later, control by Siena gave way to the power of the Medicis. Later still, Monticchiello became a part of the district of Pienza (1777) where it remains today.

Jump ahead to 1944 for some more recent history. During World War II, the area around Monticchiello was the site of conflict between the occupying German forces and the local partigiani (partisan fighters). In an act of reprisal for partisan activities, the German army entered the town and rounded up all the residents, intending to massacre them. In a fortunate turn of events, a young German woman, the wife of a local man, was among the villagers. She was able to convince the soldiers (with the help of the village priest) that the people should be spared. And so the citizens in Monticchiello that day survived the war.

The winding road up to Monticchiello

The approach to Monticchiello is up a winding, cypress lined road - the classic Tuscan landscape. On arrival, and before entering the walled village itself, is a scenic overlook with sweeping views of the valley below.

Monticchiello is a fortified village designed to keep invaders out. Entrance is through an arched opening in the fortress walls, the Porta Sant’Agata. The remains of two watch towers, one rising high and one which has lost its top, flank the archway (top photo). What lies inside is a picture perfect medieval village with sloped streets, stone buildings, open piazzas, steep steps leading up to houses, and pretty flower-filled windows and balconies. There are a couple of restaurants (including the well known La Porta with fantastic views over the valley from its outdoor terrace) as well as small shops and galleries (most closed on this visit, due to the impact of COVID). Of course, there are churches to visit and a museum dedicated to the local theater company.

Beautiful stone buildings are found throughout Monticchiello

Monticchiello is so perfect that is almost looks like a movie set. In fact, it has been often been used in movies, most recently the film “Made in Italy” starring Liam Nelson which was filmed in and around the village. The residents here (only about 200 in number) show great pride in the village, which is spotlessly tidy and full of colorful plants and flowers.

This is a quiet place and definitely not a tourist hotspot. Many who do visit come in the summer for the Teatro Povero, which is unique to Monticchiello. The Teatro Povero (Poor Theater) began here in the 1960’s, an era when the local way of life was in the middle of dramatic transformation. In post-war Monticchiello the agricultural tradition of share-chopping was fading away, people were moving to the cities for work, the economic and societal changes were dramatic. The theater, in which a play is produced based on a theme of current local importance, has involved the community in a type of public self-reflection and expression for more than 50 years. The theme is chosen by the local theater group, the play is written, directed, and acted by locals . One play is produced each year and presented as an outdoor event during July and August. A 2017 documentary film, Spettacolo, tells this story beautifully and insightfully.

Monticchiello may be off the beaten track but that is exactly what makes it so magical! Stopping here gives a glimpse of life in medieval Italy, a chance to walk the steep streets of a fortified village, a taste of the spirit of an authentic hilltop hamlet, and amazing views. And if, like me, you find Italian doors and windows fascinating, then Monticchiello is your kind of place.

Wandering Through Volterra

One of the joys of living in Italy is the ability to return to a favorite place on multiple occasions without the need to fit everything into one visit. It feels decadent to, for instance, go to Florence just to shop for shoes or to dinner in Pisa and not even wander past the Torre Pendente (Leaning Tower) because, well, you’ll do that next time. For me, one of those favorite places is the town of Volterra, about an hour and a half drive from my home in Lucca. Being so close to home makes this perfect for a day trip (or two or three day trips).

Volterra never disappoints. It has a unique charm that keeps drawing the visitor in. There is something about its city walls, stone buildings, narrow streets spanned by arches, charming cafes and restaurants, and many artisan workshops that makes it the perfect Italian hill town. And the views! Situated on a plateau high above the Val di Cecina (Cecina Valley), the views are nothing short of spectacular. As a bonus, since Volterra is a bit out of the way, it has fewer tourists than nearby San Gimignano. This is especially true in the off-season when a visit here provides uncrowded streets and the experience of “ordinary” daily life in a small Italian hill town.

Looking down on the valley from Volterra

This year I have been able to visit Volterra twice. The first time, last March just before the start of Italy’s COVID-19 lockdown, my main objective was to visit the Etruscan Museum. Volterra was an important city during the Etruscan times (roughly from the 9th to the 2nd century BC). Today it is one of the best places in Italy to learn about Etruscan life and art. The museum here is small and the explanations are mostly in Italian, but the collection of art and artifacts, including bronze sculptures, intricately carved alabaster and terra cotta funeral urns, and objects of daily living such as coins, jewelry, and kitchen ware, is fascinating (photos below by Judy Giannettino).

My second visit to Volterra this year was a spontaneous lunch and shopping excursion with a friend. We started with an arrival coffee at the popular bar / pasticcieria L’Incontro. This is a wonderful spot for morning coffee, lunch, or an apperitivo. The pastries and candies are tasty and eye-catching. And there is fun art inside too!

After a quick stop at the Etruscan Museum gift shop (for a purchase my friend regretted not getting on our last visit) we spent the day wandering through town and stopping at any place that grabbed our attention.

We walked down the wide “main drag” of Via Gramsci, with a brief stop in the tiny Oratorio di Sant’Antonio. Somehow these tiny Italian churches always move me, even more so than the grand cathedrals.

After some window shopping and a stop to buy some newly pressed olive oil, we passed by a small ceramic shop, the Bottega d’Arte. No classic italian pottery designs here! The charming owner and his daughter make colorful and whimsical pieces with undulating curves and colorful glazes. As is so often the case in Italy, he took time to speak with great enthusiasm about his work, his studio, and his philosophy of art and life. Experiences like these are part of the reason I love Italy. I will treasure the two small pieces that I bought here.

After spending time in the ceramic shop we passed by what is surely the most photographed view in Volterra, at the end of the Vicolo degli Abbandonati looking out over the valley. It’s impossible to pass by without taking a photograph of this scene.

Next, it was on to lunch at restaurant Fornelli. It has a scenic position, an outdoor patio, and a beautiful interior with interesting decor. Most importantly, it has wonderful food and friendly staff. I ate here in March with a group of friends (photos below); it was just as good the second time around!

I hope to return to Volterra soon. There is still a lot to see and do - the Roman amphitheater, the Alabaster museum, a walk up to the castello, and I will look forward to once again wandering those beautiful streets.