Two Parts Italy

One of the joys of living in Italy is the ability to return to a favorite place on multiple occasions without the need to fit everything into one visit. It feels decadent to, for instance, go to Florence just to shop for shoes or to dinner in Pisa and not even wander past the Torre Pendente (Leaning Tower) because, well, you’ll do that next time. For me, one of those favorite places is the town of Volterra, about an hour and a half drive from my home in Lucca. Being so close to home makes this perfect for a day trip (or two or three day trips).

Volterra never disappoints. It has a unique charm that keeps drawing the visitor in. There is something about its city walls, stone buildings, narrow streets spanned by arches, charming cafes and restaurants, and many artisan workshops that makes it the perfect Italian hill town. And the views! Situated on a plateau high above the Val di Cecina (Cecina Valley), the views are nothing short of spectacular. As a bonus, since Volterra is a bit out of the way, it has fewer tourists than nearby San Gimignano. This is especially true in the off-season when a visit here provides uncrowded streets and the experience of “ordinary” daily life in a small Italian hill town.

Looking down on the valley from Volterra

This year I have been able to visit Volterra twice. The first time, last March just before the start of Italy’s COVID-19 lockdown, my main objective was to visit the Etruscan Museum. Volterra was an important city during the Etruscan times (roughly from the 9th to the 2nd century BC). Today it is one of the best places in Italy to learn about Etruscan life and art. The museum here is small and the explanations are mostly in Italian, but the collection of art and artifacts, including bronze sculptures, intricately carved alabaster and terra cotta funeral urns, and objects of daily living such as coins, jewelry, and kitchen ware, is fascinating (photos below by Judy Giannettino).

My second visit to Volterra this year was a spontaneous lunch and shopping excursion with a friend. We started with an arrival coffee at the popular bar / pasticcieria L’Incontro. This is a wonderful spot for morning coffee, lunch, or an apperitivo. The pastries and candies are tasty and eye-catching. And there is fun art inside too!

After a quick stop at the Etruscan Museum gift shop (for a purchase my friend regretted not getting on our last visit) we spent the day wandering through town and stopping at any place that grabbed our attention.

We walked down the wide “main drag” of Via Gramsci, with a brief stop in the tiny Oratorio di Sant’Antonio. Somehow these tiny Italian churches always move me, even more so than the grand cathedrals.

After some window shopping and a stop to buy some newly pressed olive oil, we passed by a small ceramic shop, the Bottega d’Arte. No classic italian pottery designs here! The charming owner and his daughter make colorful and whimsical pieces with undulating curves and colorful glazes. As is so often the case in Italy, he took time to speak with great enthusiasm about his work, his studio, and his philosophy of art and life. Experiences like these are part of the reason I love Italy. I will treasure the two small pieces that I bought here.

After spending time in the ceramic shop we passed by what is surely the most photographed view in Volterra, at the end of the Vicolo degli Abbandonati looking out over the valley. It’s impossible to pass by without taking a photograph of this scene.

Next, it was on to lunch at restaurant Fornelli. It has a scenic position, an outdoor patio, and a beautiful interior with interesting decor. Most importantly, it has wonderful food and friendly staff. I ate here in March with a group of friends (photos below); it was just as good the second time around!

I hope to return to Volterra soon. There is still a lot to see and do - the Roman amphitheater, the Alabaster museum, a walk up to the castello, and I will look forward to once again wandering those beautiful streets.

The days between the hubbub of Christmas and the celebrations of the new year are perfect for a low-key day trip into the Tuscan countryside. I’m always a bit lazy during this time of year, so a drive, a walk around a pretty town, and a good lunch were all that was on the agenda, saving museums and other more in-depth explorations for a later visit.

One of the entrances into the city of Volterra

Volterra is a place I’ve always wanted to explore but until now had never visited. So, when a couple of friends suggested a day trip, I jumped at the chance. On a crisp and foggy morning a few days after Christmas, we set out from Lucca and headed for Volterra, about an hour and a half away by car. Because Volterra is a little out of the way, without a train station or easy bus connections, it has fewer tourists than some of the other Tuscan hill towns (such as Arezzo or Cortona) and doesn’t seem to get the large tour groups that visit San Gimignano. And on this winter day it was almost free of tourists.

Volterra is a very old city, dating to Etruscan times. It is particularly known for two things - Etruscan artifacts and the creation of objects made of alabaster. We skipped the museum but did manage to do a little shopping for alabaster. It was fascinating to watch an artisan at work in her small shop (Gloria Giannelli Alabastri). Her work was gorgeous - delicate small carvings, bowls, vases, light fixtures. She was happy to talk about her work and the process of making alabaster pieces. She demonstrated how she began with raw alabaster and worked it to create objects made either from a solid alabaster block or as a mosaic from slabs of different colors of alabaster. Of course, I bought a small piece!

All pieces are handmade by the artist

Raw Alabaster

I couldn’t resist this little bowl

The town of Volterra is beautiful, with it’s old castello (castle), town wall and arches, beautiful stone buildings, little alleys, carved doors, and ornate iron windows.

A small vicolo with steep stairs heading to the castello

The wide gently sloped streets are lined with homes, shops, and restaurants. And at this time of year it was made festive with Christmas lights and decorations all through town.

Our lunch stop, at Ristorante La Terra di Mezzo, was a treat. We chose several pasta dishes, all delicious. The chocolate soufflé dessert, recommended by our waiter, was fantastic.

Pappardelle with ham and truffles

A spicy Arrabbiata alla Calabrese

A warm chocolate soufflé

After lunch and a bit more wandering around town, we headed home to Lucca, knowing that we’d have to return soon for more exploration and to visit the Etruscan Museum. I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect late December day in Tuscany! -post by JMB

Looking out over the valley from a viewpoint in Volterra