A Mini-Museum in Lucca

Lucca is not a big museum town.  There are several – Palazzo Mansi, The Paolo Cresci Emigration Museum, Villa Guinigi, the Barsanti and Matteucci, the Duomo Museum.  Most are small and many short-term visitors to Lucca are unaware that some of these even exist. Instead, they spend most of their time on the city walls, in the Medieval streets and squares, and visiting the many churches of Lucca.  Unlike nearby Florence, the museums are not what draw most people to Lucca. There is one newer and very small addition to Lucca’s collection of museums.  It is so small that it is more of a mini-museum.  But it is fascinating!  

It is located underneath Lucca’s historic walls at the Sotterraneo del Baluardo Santa Croce, the under-the-wall passage located where Via delle Conce meets Via San Tommaso in the northwest corner of the city. The passage way itself is fascinating and makes a perfect backdrop to the exhibit.

The content of the mini-museum, which tells the story of Lucca’s walls from the Medieval Period until the Renaissance and beyond, unfolds in a series of displays that line the passageway.  On the left wall is the Italian version, on the right is the story in English. 

It is a unique display, one that begins in the very low light of the darkened passageway and ends in daylight outside the confines of the city walls.  In between, photos and written histories tell the story of the walls from the 1400’s on, the important historical figures, and some of Lucca’s cultural related to the walls and their construction and function.  

Maria Luisa of Bourbon

No history of Lucca’s walls would be complete without acknowledging the role of Maria Luisa of Bourbon, the Duchess of Lucca between 1805 and 1814. It is thanks to her that the walls became a city park, one that is still enjoyed today.

There is also a bit of 19th and 20th century history in the exhibit. Did you know that there was once a threat to knock down portions of the wall to better connect it with the growth of suburbs? Fortunately objections came from all over Italy, including from famous poets and composers (including Puccini) and the plan to disrupt the walls was abandoned.

Later there came a period when the top of the walls became just a city street - filled with cars.  Many of Lucca’s youth learned to drive atop the circle of the walls. And many cars were parked there.  Hard to imagine today that up until the 1980’s the walls were filled with car traffic !

At the midway point of the sotterraneo passage, an interesting video projected on the stone walls tells the story the wall played in protecting Lucca, the times when it closed the city entirely overnight, and how dignitaries, residents and tradespeople entered the walls through Porta San Donato and Porta San Pietro.  The video plays first in Italian and then is repeated in English. It is a great addition to the exhibit.

It does not take long to visit this small space.  It provides a wonderful diversion to anyone using the passage as a way to exit the historic center on their way to the greater part of the city outside of the walls.  But it is also a good destination on its own. I am so glad that a friend pointed me to this fascinating bit of Lucca’s history.

An Ancient Church and an Archangel

Chiesa Sant’Alessandro Maggiore

Lucca has been called the city of 100 Churches.  That number may be a bit of an exaggeration, but Lucca really does have a lot of churches.  Some of the oldest known churches no longer exist, having made way for the expansion of Lucca’s walls, clearing of spaces in front of palazzi, or for other building projects. Still others have been converted to non-religious uses, often performance spaces or art venues.  Others still stand but are no longer used, having been abandoned for many years.  The abandoned ones are the ones that intrigue me – if only I could get a peek inside!  On the rare occasion when one of the abandoned ones is opened for a special purpose, I make it a point to visit.

One such church is Chiesa di Sant’ Alessandro Maggiore.  This one is particularly special because it is the oldest church in Lucca, over 1000 years old, and a classic example of Romanesque architecture.  Modified over the centuries, it retains its plain structure, with a white limestone exterior and a simple three nave interior and small apse.  Relics of Saint Alessandro (Pope Alexander 1), originally placed in the church’s crypt, were later moved to the high altar. I believe they are still there. There are also relics (small bone fragments) on one of the side altars, but I could not find any information about those. A relic mystery !

The church interior is well maintained. Unlike other abandoned churches, this one simply feels like it is having a brief pause.  The floors are black and white marble, arches line the three naves, beautifully carved interior altar rails and marble decorative panels fill the church. 

The main altar and side altars still have their decorative elements and tabernacles.  Polished wood benches and confessionals line the sides of the church and narrow stained glass windows let in just enough light.

The art over the main altar is a fresco by Michele Ridolfi added in the 1800’s when the church underwent restoration.  It is a vibrant panel, with a gold background, showing Saints Alexander and Louis (Alessandro and Ludovico) beside the Madonna and child.  It seems a shame that it is hidden away in mostly unused church.

The church was recently opened to host a photographic exhibit by Lucchese artist Beatrice Speranza.  The exhibit, L’ombra di Michele (Michael’s Shadow), was a series of black and white photos, a perspective on the statue of the Archangel Michael which sits atop a different Lucchese church – the Basilica of San Michele in Foro.

The Archangel Michael is not just any old angel.  He is the highest-ranking angel, God’s warrior, who bested Satan and the band of fallen angels, and he is a saint.  And while he may be sitting atop a basilica here in Lucca, but he is not just a Catholic figure.  He is important in Judaism, Islam, and other Christian faiths – an ecumenical angel, uniting faiths. 

The hinged metal wings are seen here from the back of the statue

The statue in Lucca is nearly 4 meters (about 13 feet) tall, made of marble with metal wings that have aged to a blue green patina. He carries an orb in one hand and in the other a spear which he used to pin a dragon under his feet. That is a typical representation of the Archangel, conquering evil (satan) in the form of a dragon.   Created during the 13th century, the artist is unknown.   

The Ombra di Michele exhibit captures the statue in black and white photography from various angles and heights and also presents the shadows that the angel casts on the surrounding piazza. Many of the smaller photos also have points of embroidery placed on the photos by the artist.  These beg for personal interpretations.  She enhances the presentation with music and narration.  In her words “the Archangel and the dragon, for those who seek to get a glimpse of them amidst the blinding rays of sunlight or through the clouds, serve as a reminder to confront our fears, fragilities, disappointments, and anger.  It seems that St. Michael urges us to acknowledge and manage them, to weigh them carefully, and to cut away what needs to be released”.

The combination of the art, the music, the meaning of the artist’s words, and the ancient church setting created something truly inspiring. 

Blessing The New Wine

Even Lady and the Tramp had a fiasco on their dinner table

It is easy to recognize the classic bottle of a Chianti wine – a fiasco (flask) with a rounded base wrapped in straw.  After all, is there an Italian restaurant in the US that doesn’t have a fiasco on the table, usually topped with a candle and covered in dripping wax?  A fiasco even made an appearance in Disney’s Lady and the Tramp!

Chianti wine is produced in an area of Tuscany that stretches roughly from Florence south to Siena, a specially designated region since the time when the Medici family ruled Florence.  Historically, the classic straw wrapped bottles were made in the city of Florence, creating a special relationship in which the Florentine bottles were sent to the wineries outside of the city where the new Chianti was bottled, and then the filled bottles were sent back to merchants in Florence.  Of course, this transport began long before there were trucks to move the bottles back and forth, so how did the wine bottles return to Florence after they were filled? 

The Carro Matto arrives to Florence’s Duomo

In centuries past, the new wine was brought from the countryside on an ox cart.  Once in Florence, the wine was blessed by the church and the first bottles presented to city leaders.  Then It was time to celebrate.

Today, the tradition of blessing the new Chianti is celebrated on the last Saturday in September when the Carro Matto (crazy cart) procession takes place.  Once pulled by oxen, this year it was a tractor that pulled the cart which was piled high with over 1000 bottles of wine in the classic fiaschi. 

The procession began in front of the Duomo and moved down Via Calzaiuoli.  Along the way it made a brief stop at the small Church of San Carlo dei Lombardi, very near the part of the city where a traditional maker of the flasks (a fiascaio) would have had his workshop.  The procession ended in Piazza Signoria where a fiasco was presented to city leaders.  In the 1400 and 1500’s the first bottle might have gone to a Medici – today it was given to the elected mayor. 

Accompanying the Carro Matto were people dressed in historic costumes, helmeted guards, musicians, and the Bandierai degli Uffizi (traditional flag bearers) who delighted the crowd with their flag-throwing.  Women carried individual fiaschi to be presented to the dignitaries. 

Crowds watched as the cart made its way along the route, looking as if the bottles could topple at any minute.  A crazy cart indeed.   Fortunately, the bottles remained in place, the wine was blessed, and the celebrations continued.  Time to toast the new wine with a glass of Chianti!    

Hard to believe this doesn’t topple over!

A New, Very Old Neighborhood

The historic center of Lucca is small, lying within a 4.2 km (2.5 mile) surround of Renaissance era walls.  It is easy to walk from one side of town to the other in just 20 minutes. It might seem that such a small area would feel like one cohesive neighborhood, but nothing could be further from the truth.

Historically, in the Medieval and in the Renaissance period, Lucca was divided into 3 terzieri (thirds of the town) each with its own administration.  The terzieri were further divided into 4 smaller sections called gonfaloni.  Each gonfalone (singular form of gonfaloni) had a unique name and symbol, which was carried on a banner.   

The 3 terzieri are represented in the many Medieval events held in Lucca

San Martino Cathedral lends its name to the terziere on Lucca’s eastern side

The terzieri in Lucca were the Terziere of San Martino, Terziere of San Salvatore, and Terziere of San Paolino.  San Martino was the largest of the three, though least populated, taking up much of the eastern and central part of the city, from north to south. 

Next, San Paolino, in the western section of Lucca, was the oldest terziere of the city. It had the largest population and held a position of importance within the historic city.

The Church of San Tommaso in the terziere of San Paolino, is one of Lucca’s oldest churches.

The smallest of the terziere was San Salvatore, in the north central part of Lucca. 

One of the most famous fountains in Lucca stands in Piazza San Salvatore in the terziere of the same name, the building behind is the Church of San Salvatore, another of Lucca’s oldest churches. It gave the terziere its name.

Today, there are many echoes of those long-ago neighborhoods in Lucca.   While the modern city has one unified city government, the names of the old terzieri persist, and the churches and piazzas that anchored them are still standing as the cornerstones of unique neighborhoods. 

Two of the Medieval city gates are still used. Both sit within the San Martino terziere and mark the limits of what was the Medieval city. Today, locals and visitors alike walk under the arches each day as they head toward the center of town. A third gate, the Porta San Donato, has been replaced by a newer, larger entrance to the city in the Renaissance era wall.  However, part of the old gate (middle photo below) can still be seen nearby as part of the tourist information center.

The historic divisions are perhaps best represented in Lucca’s frequent Medieval themed events which often involve competitions with costumed teams from each of the terzieri carrying their unique banners.  The Terzieri of San Paolino is still important - it often takes the prize in archery competitions.

This history has been on my mind since I recently moved from an apartment in the San Martino neighborhood to one in the San Paolino area.  Historically speaking, my new apartment is in the Terzieri San Paolino, the Gonfalone della Serena (the subdivision of the Siren).  And even though I am just about a 10-minute walk to the west of my old apartment, this part of town has a very different vibe.  I would describe it as being off the beaten path, a slice of Lucca before the “spiffing up” for tourists.  It is definitely a residential area, not a souvenir shop to be found.  

Bar Probi

I have been exploring the area for the last couple of weeks.  I’ve found one nearby bar for morning coffee, run by a pair of friendly sisters.  It sits just across from a court building and is very popular with the people working there. A cornetto and a cappuccino here costs €2.80. Definitely a taste of old Lucca and certainly not tourist prices.

When I introduced myself to one of the owners, saying that I had just moved to this part of town, her response was “well, then this is your bar, see you tomorrow”.  A nice welcome!   A second bar, Bar Tiani, has welcomed Lucchese since the 1950’s. It is located right next to the neighborhood grocery store. Full of locals, it is a lively place full of the music of spoken Italian. And who doesn’t need a caffè before grocery shopping? A bonus is the small Thursday morning market, just a block or two from my new place. It has wonderful fruits and vegetables straight from area farms.

 I’ve mostly organized my new apartment, a small studio inside a former convent, the style of which is what I call “Ikea chic”.  I now know where the breakers are – an important detail after the power went out in a storm, not an unusual occurrence here in Italy.  I’ve explored the nearest way out of the walls through the very interesting Porta San Donato.  And I am finding new details in doors, windows, bricks, and streets each time I set out. 

I am enjoying things that seem small but have a big impact of quality of life – a complete kitchen (no more Easy Bake oven for me!), good AC (critical in hot, hot August), and – best of all – a terrace which looks out at roof tops and gardens. Opening the doors to the terrace first thing each morning, with beautiful southern light, makes me smile.  That I found this small, affordable place feels like a miracle.

Living in Italy has taught me many things – the joys of a simple apartment, a good local bar for morning coffee, the sound of the Italian language drifting through my doors, church bells ringing, looking out over a hidden garden, and a community of nice people - these are the things of value.

And cool, rainy weather!  I vote for more of that.

The entry way to my building, once a convent.

As Summer Winds Down

Stinco is a pork shank, tender and wonderful the meat falls off the bone

The calendar says that summer is almost over, though the weather has yet to provide any hints of fall. Temperatures are a little better than they were a couple of weeks ago, but still hot, humid, and sticky.  I’ve had a busy couple of weeks since my return to Lucca, including a move to a new apartment and carting more boxes than I can count to the recycle bins. Fortunately, those chores were balanced out by a couple of fun events.

First, a sagra with a group of old and new friends.  A sagra is a community event, usually held in summer or fall, a festival built around a local specialty dish.  The cooking is done by volunteers (community or church groups, lots of nonne and nonni).  Dining is outdoors at long tables, and the food usually is served cafeteria style – get your tray, go through the line, pick what you’d like.  Sometimes you buy a ticket at the start, which covers everything, and other times you pay at the end based on what dishes you’ve chosen.  Don’t forget to stop by the booth selling wine!

Over the years I’ve been to sagras that celebrate a special type of onion (the Treschietto from Bagnone), rigatoni, polenta, porcini, roasted meats, and soup.   Each one a local specialty and delicious.  Every sagra also served a variety of dishes beyond the featured one, plus wine and a dessert.  

Stinco

Last week’s sagra was in Massarosa, not far from Lucca.  The Sagra dello Stinco featured pork shank – a delicious big piece of pork so tender it nearly fell off the bone. 

There were also a couple of different pasta dishes, grilled chicken, steak, fried fish, quarti fritti (lovely, salty fried dough pieces to layer with prosciutto), bruschetta with tomatoes.  Water, beer, wine.   Desserts, a cream filled torta di nonna or a chocolate filled torta di nonno, rounded out the menu.   Taking place in a not-too-hot summer evening with music, laughter, and friends and it added up to a perfect Italian summer night.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  The last weekend in August also saw the 13th edition of the Notte Bianca (White Night) in Lucca.   This is an end of summer celebration in which most of the city’s museums, along with famous towers and palazzi, are open late (with free entry). Shops stay open well past normal closing times as well. 

Early in the evening there was a creative activity for kids in Piazza San Michele.  As the night progressed, there were multiple sound stages with DJs in the large piazzas and smaller DJ stages or groups performing along many of the streets, a percussion group parading through the streets, and lots of interesting things to see and hear.

No small event - some 60,000 people participated. Perhaps not the thing for anyone who dislikes crowds and loud music, but definitely fun to experience for at least some of the evening.

One favorite was the giant keyboard, played by two people dancing across the keys, in Piazza Cittadella. 

 Another favorite – the groups of dancers in several of the squares.  Everything from tango to zumba, it was not possible to see them all. I chose to watch the salsa dancers in Piazza San Frediano.  Impossible not to move to that beat!

The final event, at midnight, was an acrobatic troupe.  Too late for me – I was home by then but still could hear the music drifting through my windows.

Notte Bianca was a great way to wind down the summer season and begin to think about fall.

Now if only fall weather would make an appearance.