When The Giro d’Italia Comes To Town

The city of Lucca went a little bit crazy (in a good way) this week when the Giro d’Italia came to town. The color pink, representing the Maglia Rosa, the Pink Jersey worn by the leader, appeared overhead in street banners, in window displays, balloons, and even in pastry shops. The pink of the jersey reflects the color of the pages in the sports paper La Gazzetta dello Sport, the founder of the race in 1909.

The biggest crowd gathered at the beginning of the route. Thanks to J. Nichols for this photo.

The Giro d’Italia is Italy’s Grand Tour bike racing event, with teams from many nations participating.  The Giro has multiple stages, taking the riders from sea level to mountain top over a challenging 3-week course. The rider wearing the Maglia Rosa can change with each stage, always worn by the leader at that point in the competition. 

The route varies from year to year. This year’s race began in Durrës, Albania and ends in Rome on June 1st, a total distance of 3,443 km (2139 miles). The rider who crosses into Rome wearing the pink jersey is the winner. This year’s stage 10, one of two time trial stages, began in Lucca, a very big event for the city.

The route took riders along Lucca’s wall as part of the time trial event.

An exhibit on the history of the Giro d’Italia, with photos of past winners and Italian racing superstars, was set up under the loggia in Piazza San Michele. It included an interesting display of old bicycles. My favorite was the bike with a coffee bar attached!

On the day of the race, souvenir stands sold race-themed merchandize, car and pedestrian traffic was rerouted, and Piazza Napoleon became the center of activity and the starting point for the event. 

The route took riders from the piazza up onto Lucca’s wall, about ¾ of the way around, and then onto Pisa, a distance of 28.6 km (17.8 miles). 

Because this was a time trial, the riders took off one at a time rather than in a large group.  Each was preceded by a motorcycle escort and followed by a car bearing the rider’s name and colors.  Fans lined the route, tracking the riders, cheering and waving the flags of various countries as each rider flew passed.

At the end of Stage 10, Dutch rider Daan Hoole had the fastest time to Pisa while Mexican rider Isaac del Toro had the overall lead and the Maglia Rosa. This was the final time trial of the Giro, now the riders move on across Italy and eventually to Rome. Who will be wearing the pink jersey at the end?

The Torre Guinigi all decked out in an Italian flag to celebrate the Giro d’Italia coming to Lucca.

The Colors of May

The month of May is the perfect time to be in Tuscany. April’s rains are mostly gone. The skies vary from clear, deep blue to blue studded with white clouds. Temperatures are mild and a bit breezy. Mornings and evenings are cool but the afternoons are warm but not yet hot. We are still having some rain, but the showers are brief and not nearly as chilling as the April storms.

Other than a few lamentations about allergy season, everyone is out and about in Lucca enjoying the beautiful, mild days. It’s a joy to sit outside in a cafe or restaurant or to sit and watch happy children ride the carousel. 

Best of all, the last few weeks have seen an explosion of color in Lucca. The roses are especially gorgeous, with large rows of them blooming in parks and public spaces. 

Flowers fill containers in piazzas, spill from window boxes, bloom in private gardens, and decorate balconies. Stands of star jasmine arch along doorways and walls or climb above terraces, filling the streets with the wonderful scent of jasmine.

 The wildflowers are my favorite. I love the ones that have found homes in the crevices of old stones. The delicate flowers blooming all along the walls of the fosso (the canal that runs along one of Lucca’s streets) are delightful. 

Wildflowers along the fosso

May days are perfect for long walks and discovering Lucca’s hidden corners, especially the ones filled with flowers.

Sunday Lunch in the Tuscan Countryside

One of the many delights of living in Tuscany is having a pranzo di domenica (Sunday lunch) with friends.  Even better when one of those friends is a local chef who knows just where to find a special place in an out of the way little village.  Rule # 1: always let the chef pick the restaurant! I was lucky enough to enjoy such a lunch recently, in the tiny village of Colognora di Compito, a lovely drive of about 6 miles, 15-20 minutes through the countryside from Lucca.

 At first glance the restaurant, La Cantina di Alfredo, seems to have been dropped down in the middle of nowhere.  It sits in tiny village along a pretty stone lined stream.  The unassuming building that houses the restaurant (in business since 1965) barely hints at the lively atmosphere and wonderful flavors to be found within. 

The first thing to reach my senses, before even opening the door, was the smell of the wood ovens.  A very nice welcome and a hint of the flavors to come.

Next, the sound of Italian chatter reached my ears.  Families with children of all ages filled the restaurant, happily interacting and sharing a meal.  Not one cell phone or other device in sight.  Sharing a Sunday lunch with friends, surrounded by a roomful of Italian families, is always a treat.  La Cantina di Alfredo provided the perfect Sunday atmosphere.

There are house specialty antipasti that get the meal off to an abundant start.  I have to admit (with only a pinch of guilt) that between the three of us we shared several of them, almost a meal on its own.  I blame my chef friend, who ordered for us – cancel that – I meant to say that I THANK my chef friend - because each bite was delicious.  First, we shared a board of cured meats including prosciutto, salami, other cured meats, and lardo (a buttery soft cubed pork fat) served with thin wedges of herb-flecked wood fired oven baked focaccia. 

Alongside that came a platter of bruschetta featuring fegato (a liver paté) on bread or squares of fried polenta, “meatballs” made of chopped mushrooms, and a pile of pasta fritta.  Pasta fritta is addictive – small bites of hot, fried, salty dough. How bad could that be?   Topped with a slice of the prosciutto it was delicious.

Having eaten a very big antipasto course, we skipped the primi selections (first courses) and headed straight to the main dishes. 

The house specialties include meats grilled in the wood oven, especially Florentine steaks and other cuts of beef. And the big piles of meats waiting to be cooked in one of their two wood fired ovens looked amazing. 

 In addition to beef, other dishes are prepared on the grill as well, including as fish, pork, and chicken.  And a second, even hotter, wood fired oven is reserved for pizza. Both of my companions ordered the Baccalà alla Brace (alla brace means on the grill) while I opted for the Rosticianna alla Brace (grilled pork ribs). 

Alongside we shared a dish of fagioli al forno (oven roasted beans).  Cooking beans in a wood oven turns them from ordinary into something special.  Creamy on the inside but a touch crisp on the outside, drizzled with good olive oil, they were perfect with both the fish and the pork.

Much too full for a dolce (sweet), we finished our meal with coffee (and a doggie bag for me - those ribs were hefty).  Leaving the restaurant by way of a small stone bridge, it was worth the short detour to see the small church with its unique short bell tower and mosaic decoration.  And then it was back in the car for the short drive back to Lucca.  

Good friends + a drive in the Tuscan countryside + a fabulous lunch = a perfect Sunday in Tuscany.

 La Cantina di Alfredo, Via di Colognora, 32.  Colognora di Compito Capannori

Phone: +39 058 3980192.     Cell phone: +39 331 3876800

Email: info@lacantinadialfredo.it

Closed Monday & Tuesday, open Wednesday – Sunday 12 – 2:30 NS 7 – 11 PM

Early Spring in Lucca

The first wisteria of 2025 in the Giardino degli Observant.

As March heads into April there are definite hints of spring in Lucca.  While the weather is still unpredictable, there have been some days just sunny enough to feel a touch of spring warmth on our faces.  I haven’t put away my warm coat and scarves (or my umbrella) just yet, but I can feel the day coming when I will be able to pack them away until next fall.

In my mind, two things mark the early spring season in Italy.  First is the appearance of blossoms. March’s Magnolias fade quickly but are soon replaced with Wisteria. The Wisteria are just beginning to bloom with the first sprays of flowers appearing last week. This past week also saw the first white rose along the path I walk when heading for my language lessons at Lucca Italian School. Soon the whole path will be lined with them. In the past few days I also came across a bed of white calla lilies, something I had not seen before in Lucca.  Gorgeous!

Calla Lilies in bloom at the entrance to the Casa di Cura Santa Zita

Flowers are also blooming in window boxes and on terraces throughout Lucca, spots that will become even more colorful after the spring Verde Mura which is scheduled for the first weekend in April. The annual garden show showcases flowers, herbs, fruit trees, and anything else needed for the garden. 

The second sign of early spring for me happens in the markets.  Agretti is the first to appear (sometimes as early as late January / early February).  This past week asparagus and artichokes were in abundance. Pots of herbs arrived at the Ortofrutta this week too.

There are also fresh spring peas, perfect raw in salads or added to a pasta primavera.  And zucchini flowers!  While they are wonderful stuffed and fried, I never actually go to the trouble to prepare them in that way (isn’t that what restaurants are for?).  But, chopped along with the zucchini itself they make a tasty addition to a frittata. Big bundles of Tropea Onions, available year round from southern Italy, add a splash of color to the Spring market.

From southern Italy come bright red, flavorful strawberries.  Topped with a whipped combination of cream and mascarpone they make a delicious yet simple dessert. Crumble a few amaretti cookies on top for an extra treat.

As early spring progresses to the warmth of late April and May, Lucca will provide an evolving parade of opportunities to enjoy the colors, blooms, and tastes of Tuscany.

March Skies in Lucca

The first half of March is an unpredictable time here in Tuscany.  Sometimes it feels like just another few very long weeks of winter.  It roars in like the proverbial lion with wind, rain, thunder, and cold.   

Early March is when the Magnolias bloom along Corso Garibaldi in Lucca. March 1, 2025

Clear blue skies over the old Mercato and the Torre Guinigi, March 2, 2025

Other years March arrives more gently, with mild temperatures and sunny skies. The Magnolias, which bloom in early March in sun or in showers, provide a bit of a spring tease.

Above all, early March is fickle. A couple of lovely days, just enough to make you believe spring has arrived, followed by a quick return to cold and wet weather.

 This year, it seemed like someone flipped a switch on the first day of the month.  Where February had been especially cold, gloomy, and wet, March 1st brought several days of blue skies and gorgeous weather.

Heading towards the Torre delle Ore, Lucca’s historic clock tower. March 10, 2025

The weather changed again the second week of March. By Friday March 14th Tuscany was under a weather alert that brought winds and rain, enough to cancel schools for the day.

Clouds building over Lucca’s historic walls, March 11

March 14th, cloudy and rainy in Lucca with high water levels and local flooding along the Arno from Pisa to Florence.

Gathering clouds over Piazza San Francesco, March 11

Sadly, by that evening the Arno (which runs through Pisa and Florence) was at dangerously high levels with some areas of flooding.

I’ve spent a lot of time watching the skies over Lucca these past two weeks.  From bright blue to partly cloudy, from moody to threatening, each has had its own beauty. The threats of heavy rain and damaging floods have dampened the joy of sky watching these last few days, but hopefully we will return to blue skies over the next few days.

Soon April will arrive and bring true spring. Until then, I’ll be looking up to watch the clouds. But I’ll keep my umbrella handy.  Happy mid-March from Lucca.