Winter Reading, Italian Stories

January has finally dragged itself into February on its slow crawl out of winter.  Is it just me or did last month seem unusually dreary?  And long.  I spent all of January in New Mexico so I can’t speak for the weather anywhere else, but in New Mexico it was cloudy, gray, and drizzly for days on end which is quite unusual here in the land of sunshine.  Two light snowfalls were pretty but cold.   

Pontremoli, a city where books are everywhere.

Dreary winter days are perfect for sitting with a cup of coffee and reading a good book.  When I am away from Italy, as I have been for the last 6 weeks or so, I find myself drawn to books set in Italy. There are endless choices – memoirs, travel diaries, historical pieces. 

There are Donna Leon mysteries and Camilleri’s Inspector Montalbano.  Who hasn’t fallen under the spell of A Room With a View or Enchanted April? More recent books have been best sellers - Under the Tuscan Sun and My Brilliant Friend (though I admit I struggled a bit through that one) - come to mind.  Perhaps Umberto Eco’s Name of the Rose or Giovanni Boccaccio’s Decameron (which I found my grandson reading recently) is on your reading list.  The list could go on and on.

 I am currently enjoying two series that may not be as universally known. Both are by contemporary authors.  The two series are quite different, but if you love Italy, and especially Tuscany, then I recommend them as perfect for winter reading.

Don’t you love it when a novel takes you to a familiar location in Tuscany ?

The first is a series of historical novels by the art historian Laura Morelli.  Her well-researched novels intertwine Italian art, craftsmanship, long-ago artists, and history in compelling reads.  Through her writing I have sat by Da Vinci’s side as he painted, walked with Lisa Gheradini through Florence, hid vanities from Savonarola, and worked alongside a gondola craftsman in Venice.  Parts of her novels are set in 15th and 16th century Italy, but the stories often move between time periods - from Renaissance era Italy to World War II when Italian masterpieces were being hidden from, or acquired by, the Nazis. If not familiar with her books, The Stolen Lady, which revolves around the painting of the Mona Lisa and life in Florence during that time period, and how the painting was hidden during WWII, is a great place to start.   If Venice calls to you, then The Gondola Maker will transport you to the 16th century workshop of a family of gondola craftsman.   

A very different series is written by Camilla Trinchieri.  Set in the present day, her 3 novels are what the Italians call gialli.  The word giallo literally means “yellow” (the plural is gialli), so called for the yellow covers that were traditionally used for Italian mysteries. 

Trinchieri’s protagonist is a very likable retired American cop, widowed and living in the Chianti region.  There is an appealing Italian maresciallo (a type of local policeman) stationed in Greve, his endearing young second in command, and a host of interesting Italian characters.   Reading these novels are like taking a vacation in Chianti, one where you recognize the towns immediately and feel right at home.   Best to read these in order, starting with Murder in Chianti.   A 4th book in the series is due out this year, so I am rereading the series this winter in preparation.

What’s next on my reading list?   I have just started The Sixteen Pleasures, set in Florence after the big flood of 1966. So far I’ve learned quite a bit about the restoration of water damaged books and an American book conservator volunteering in a convent library. A scandal is just unfolding - a book of erotic drawings hidden away in the convent’s library. I wonder where that will lead?

I head back to Italy soon and there will still be a month of winter ahead. I am looking forward to starting the Bookseller of Florence by Ross King.  It is sitting by the reading chair in my Lucca apartment just waiting for me.

Do you have favorite books set in Italy?   Please share your favorites on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page.   Happy winter reading!

The Basilica of San Lorenzo in Florence

It’s hard to have a favorite church in Florence.  It may even be wrong to choose a favorite considering the number of historic and significant churches in the city.  The Duomo, officially the Church of Santa Maria del Fiore, with its magnificent façade and campanile, is famous for good reason.  Consider Santa Maria Novella, Santa Croce, Santissima Annunziata – and those are just the basilicas inside the historic center.  Add in smaller churches, chapels, baptisteries, oratorios, bell towers and wonderful churches outside the center and, well, it would take years to explore them all.  How could anyone choose a favorite?

Tomb of Berta Moltke Hwitfeldt, Corbelli Chapel, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 And yet, I do have a couple of favorites.   One is the Basilica of San Lorenzo, whose 4th century origins make it the oldest church in Florence.  Redesigned by Brunelleschi in the 15th century, and completed after his death, it was the parish church of the Medici family, many of whom are buried there.

Detail, Basilica of San Lorenzo, Florence

 San Lorenzo is more than just a church – the complex also has a museum, the Laurentian Library, and the Medici Chapels.  Underneath the Medici chapels is a recently discovered hidden room with rough sketches by Michelangelo covering the walls. Right now it’s the hottest attraction in town but it was not yet opened during my November stay in Florence. The library is not always open, and a special ticket is needed for the Medici Chapel.  The entire complex is a bit too much for one visit.

On my recent off-season stay in Florence, I stopped by on the spur of the moment and purchased a ticket which included only the cloister and church, both of which were uncrowded and just right for a short visit.

What is it that makes the San Lorenzo Basilica one of my favorites?   It starts with the rough stone exterior.  Unlike the polished marble façade of the Duomo, the San Lorenzo stands unadorned and underdressed.  It was meant to have a white marble façade, designed by Michelangelo at the request of the Medici Pope Leo X.   But the pope died, the money dried up, and the façade was never installed. 

Inside, the basilica feels quiet and peaceful with its simple geometric floor anchoring graceful arches and columns in gray Pietra Serena (Serene Stone).  The high, round, windows let in light through their clear glass.  Even the ceiling, with its gold edged squares and central medallions (look for the Medici coat of arms) feels calming. Unlike more ornate churches (such as my other favorite, the very Baroque Santissima Annunziata), San Lorenzo has low contrast colors and finishes. This allows it to feel open and airy. The Basilica is a soothing space that supports quiet contemplation and an uncluttered mind. 

Another reason to love this church is the way in which it showcases the work of Donatello.  His two ornately carved pulpits, raised high atop marble columns in the center of the church, are considered his final masterpieces.

Donatello’s pulpits , Basilica of San Lorenzo

The church holds many remarkable pieces of art, but not so many as to be overwhelming.  There are sculptures, including graceful tomb markers, and some significant paintings, many of which sit in small side chapels.

Bronzino’s The Martyrdom of St. Lawrence

Perhaps the two most well-known paintings are an Annunciation by Filippo Lippi (below, right) and the Betrothal of the Virgin by Rosso Fiorentino (below, left).  Two very different styles, both captivating.   

Old Sacristy, Basilica of San Lorenzo

The biggest reason for my love of this church is the small Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy).  Designed by Brunelleschi, it was the only portion of the church completed before his death.  His perfectly proportioned design incorporates a square room with a ribbed dome on top, several graceful arches, and the same gray and white colors of the main church. 

 Opposite the entry into the sacristy is a small marble altar, its design in white marble is in keeping with the simplicity of the rest of Brunelleschi’s design.  Above the altar, in a smaller dome, is a remarkable blue and gold night sky.  There has been some debate about the date represented by the constellations pictured.  Initially it was thought to represent the day the altar was consecrated in July of 1422.  Newer theories give the date as July 6, 1439, the date of the accord uniting the Eastern and Western branches of Christianity.  Whichever date is correct, the constellations unite the sacristy with the heavens.

The constellations above the altar in the Old Sacristy, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 In the center of the sacristy is the tomb of a Giovanni di Bicci de’Medici and his wife Piccarda Bueri.  It was Giovanni who founded the Medici bank and set the stage for the Medici era in Florence.  This seems like a fitting place for him to rest.

Not part of Brunelleschi’s original design, several elements were later added by Donatello at the request of the Medicis.  These include a series of tondi (round decorations) which lie below the dome.  The 4 in the corners represent the life of Saint John the Evangelist.  

Detail, Donatello’s bronze doors, Old Sacristy

Donatello also designed the two bronze doors that flank the altar.

Apostles to the left, martyrs on the right.

The large reliefs above the doors, with St. Cosmos and St. Damian on the right and St. Stephen and St. Lawrence on the left, are also the work of Donatello.

(Note: There is also a New Sacristy but it is not accessible from inside the church, only from the Medici Chapels)

One of the relief decorations by Donatello above the bronze doors in the Old Sacristy.

The Basilica of San Lorenzo is not the largest or most ornate church in Florence.  It wears no colorful marble facade. But it is stunning in its simplicity and is of great historical and architectual importance. When visiting, don’t miss the literature with a QR code which links to an audio guide. The audio descriptions greatly enhanced any visit.

Entry and Exit to the church is through the cloisters.  This green space, surrounded by a two-story loggia, is a destination all of its own. The lower floor of the loggia surrounds a neatly kept space with low hedges and a big central tree.  Under the arches is a walkway with walls filled with memorials to long ago Florentines.  It’s a moving space embracing both the quiet of the church and views out into the “real world” of Florence.  You can almost hear the rustling robes of those long ago monks as they walk through the cloister.

Cloister, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 Hungry afterwards?  Just outside the front entry is a wonderful lunch spot – the Trattoria San Lorenzo.  A perfect way to end a visit to the church, enjoy a meal, and have time to organize memories of the basilica.

A Butcher, A Baker, A Pasta maker And More

One of my favorite small shops in Lucca.

 Lucca has a host of small, family run food shops – places that specialize in salumi (cured meats), formaggio (cheese), frutta e vedure (fruit and vegetables), or dolce (sweets).  

The forno is the place to go to buy bread, the pasticceria for pastries and cakes, the latteria for milk products, and a macelleria for meats.  There is even a polleria that has the most delicious chicken.   Shopping for a meal might involve three or more shops. There is also a Wednesday afternoon organic market in Piazza San Francesco and a large outdoor market on Saturdays, a bit outside of the historic center of town.  All have high quality products, many from local producers. 

 As much as I love shopping at these local places, there is one thing I long for that is nowhere to be found in Lucca – a good daily covered market.  There once was a small permanent market in Lucca in the building that is still called Il Mercato, but that was long ago.  Other than a few small shops (a butcher, a greengrocer, a chocolate shop) and a much loved local bar, most of the market has stood empty at least for the 5 years I have lived in Lucca (and probably much longer).  The old Mercato building is currently undergoing restoration, which has sadly displaced most of the small vendors that had remained, including the Bar del Sole, which has caused a major controversy in town. Sadly, the restoration plan does not seem to include turning it back into a thriving food market.

The caffè inside the Sant’Ambrogio market.

 The market I fantasize about having here in Lucca does actually exist – but it is in Florence. 

Located in the Santa Croce district, the Mercato Sant’Ambrogio is the oldest indoor food market in Florence, in business since 1873.  The colors, aromas, and sounds of the market give it a vibrant, full-of-life feel. Layer in the sound of Italian chatter and it is wonderful. The Sant’Ambrogio is my favorite place for an authentic Italian shopping experience.  I can spend a whole morning just wandering through the  market, with a quick stop for a coffee at the caffè. Or maybe a post-shopping lunch at the trattoria. This is one-stop-shopping at its finest!

The butcher counters are marvels.  Not only are they full of standard cuts of meat (steaks, roasts, chicken, rabbit, lamb, pork) but also polpetti (meatballs), involtini, small packages of meat rolled around a variety of fillings, and larger roasts filled with a variety of stuffings. It’s a carnivores delight.

 The different types of fish look as fresh as can be.  A wide selection of fiish is difficult to find in Lucca and the Sant’Ambrogio has two large fish stalls. If I lived in Florence you would find me here every week buying some of the large shrimp, fish fillets, squid, or anchovies. 

 There are several stalls with cured meats. Large legs of prosciutto crudo (Italy’s famous cured but uncooked ham) hang overhead or sit on the counter waiting to be sliced.  And not just one variety, but prosciutto from different regions, aged for different lengths of time, with different levels of sweetness vs saltiness, and different textures. Then there is prosciutto cotto (a cooked ham), and all types of salami.  

 And the cheese stalls!  Tubs of fresh ricotta, rounds of pecorino, little goat cheeses, big rounds of gorgonzola, and balls of mozzarella just for starters.  Soft cheese, hard cheese, and pretty little herb encrusted cheeses call my name as I pass by. There are more varieties of cheese than I could possibly name. I would like to try them all.

There are plenty of marinated goodies too – artichokes, olives, peppers, dried tomatoes, grilled eggplant, anchovies.  

Add some of those to the cured meats and cheeses and you have an instant aperitivo spread or a tasty lunch.

Oh those fresh pastas! Plain or filled, they are a carb lovers treat.  There are mounds of fresh linguini, filled ravioli, trofie, and gnocchi.   Crocks of prepared sauces hold the perfect toppings for the various pastas.

 What else is needed to stock the kitchen?   You can find most everything here. Stalls of spices, beans, dried pasta, olive oil, and wine. 

Probably the only thing that I skip is the lampredotto (tripe) booth.  It smells wonderful but I just can’t convince myself to try this Tuscan delicacy. But for fans, the Sant’Ambrogio market is said to be one of the best places in Florence for a lampredotto panino. I will stick to some of the other booths serving prepared ready-to-go foods. And then a quick stop at one of the bakeries.

Just outside the covered market, outdoor vendors sell fruits, vegetables, nuts, olives, and breads.  The produce looks like art to me with the variety of colors, shapes, and textures.

 I spoke with one of the market vendors, telling him that I was from Lucca and, sadly, that we didn’t have a market like this.   He gave me a knowing smile and said yes, it’s better in Florence. The merchants and the shoppers here seem to know what a gem they have in the Mercato Sant’Ambrogio.  If only I could transport it to Lucca. But it sure is fun to visit when I am in Florence!

One of the bakeries in the Mercato Sant’Ambrogio

Art Nouveau in Florence

 Classic art is everywhere in Florence.   It’s there in intimate chapels and majestic cathedrals, in museums small and large, in civic buildings and Medici palaces. Outside there are fountains, sculptures, fabulous doors, and art tucked above doorways.  It is impossible to be in Florence and not encounter classic art.

 In addition to the classics, it is not unusual to find more contemporary art in the city, both in galleries and as temporary exhibits.   One such exhibit, currently on display in the museum of the Ospedale degli Innocenti, features the works of Alphonse Mucha.

 Mucha worked in Paris in the years just before and after 1900 - the Art Nouveau period.  He worked primarily as an illustrator and graphic designer but also with photography, painting, and jewelry design.  He remains one of the most influential and well-known Art Nouveau artists (though he never described himself with that label).

Mucha created theater posters and programs, magazine and book illustrations, and advertising designs.  His work from that period include the many theater posters he designed for plays starring Sarah Bernhardt.

A Mucha illustration advertising beer

Women are the subjects of Mucha’s illustrations - young, flawless, and dressed in beautiful clothing. No classic goddesses here - these are lively and sensuous ladies.

Mucha surrounds his female subjects with arches, circles, and curves.  Flowers appear in many ways – in the background, as hair decorations, and as intricate border designs.  The colors are beautiful, - soft, warm, complex, floral. 

The exhibit in Florence has several components, including multimedia experiences. At the beginning is a short film, in Italian with English subtitles, plus a timeline. Together, they set the stage for viewing Mucha’s work. 

The poster display begins with his Bernhardt theater posters – large works with fabulous costumes unique to each play.  

Moving through the exhibit you find advertising posters, other forms of advertising (perfume bottles, boxes, menus, fans), and decorative posters.

One fascinating part of the exhibit is an immersive experience. A long hallway, flanked by mirrors, filled with ever-changing projections of Mucha’s floral designs. The flowers shift and change creating explosions of color. At the far end are large projections of his works.  It’s a visually beautiful experience that puts the viewer right in the middle of a Mucha illustration. (I’ll post a short video clip on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page).

 Not all of Mucha’s works were of beautiful and serene women dressed in alluring clothing.   His posters also reflect his commitment to all Slavic peoples, their customs and their struggles.

Mucha considered his most important work to be his Slav Epic, a series of huge paintings telling the history of the Slavic people.  The project was completed over 18 years and then donated to the city of Prague.

Panel from the Slav Epic

Mucha’s political beliefs, commitment to the independence of the Slavic people, and participation in the Czech Freemasons led to his arrest by the Nazis in 1939.  He was in his 70’s at the time of his arrest and, even though he was released after a few weeks, he died of pneumonia shortly after.  The Nazis also removed his Slav Epic works and they remained hidden for many years.  They are now on display in Prague. Reproductions of several panels are included in the exhibit in Florence.

 The Mucha exhibit will be in Florence through April 7, 2024.  The museum is open daily from 9:30 am to 7 pm with some exceptions (be sure to check on-line for changes to this schedule). A not-to be-missed experience for those who are interested in Art Nouveau.

Wandering in Florence

It is easy to be overwhelmed by the city of Florence. The art. The architecture. The history. The crowds !

Even though I live most of the year a short hour and twenty minute train ride away, I’ve only spent short periods of time in Florence since moving to Italy. Most visits have been day trips or at best one night stays for a specific purpose - a birthday lunch for a friend, the dramatic Florentine Easter celebration, the annual Christmas market. I once spent a day in the city shoe shopping, which felt (and still does) rather decadent.

It had been a long time since I visited for a longer stay or did the things Florence is famous for - museums, churches, markets, exhibits.

But that changed this past week with a 5 day stay that gave me lots of time to catch up with Florence.

November is a great time to visit Florence. There are still crowds, but they are much smaller than in high season. The cool, but not cold, weather is perfect, even with on and off rain. It was fortunate that the heavy rains that caused so many problems in Tuscany last week happened mostly later in the evenings and overnight in Florence and that there was no flooding. Watching the umbrellas go up and down filled the streets with changing colors.

I arrived with a list of things I wanted to see and do, many of them favorites from long ago trips or classic Florentine sights. And yet, with the luxury of a longer stay, what I found myself doing first was just wandering.

I wandered through main piazzas and down tiny side streets. Past small markets and interesting shops. I even came across a brass band who filled a piazza with sound. I found a small sandwich stand that I first discovered 20+ years ago on a food tour and had been unable to find since. I got turned around and a little bit lost and found surprises around every corner. Perhaps best of all is just to people watch and observe Florentine daily life with camera in hand.

I crossed the Ponte Santa Trinità for views of the Ponte Vecchio. The dark and cloudy skies changed the character of the Arno, creating shadows and reflections in the water.

I spent some time looking up. There are lots of interesting things to be seen far above eye level.

Wandering through Florence presents so many small details to discover - pretty doors, carved stone decorations, street side shrines, and the outsides of famous churches. Wandering provides the luxury to sip a coffee in a pretty cafe with a view to a piazza and just daydream.

I did make time to visit some more well known places - including 2 museums, some churches, a market, the Piazza del Duomo, and a fabulous art nouveau exhibit. All were wonderful. I’ll write more about them in the next weeks.

But simply wandering the city, without a specific goal, was one of the best parts of my visit and those are the rather random photos i’m sharing this week.