One Day in Spello

Spello just may be the perfect Umbrian hill town. 

It has layers of history - old Roman gates, ancient city walls, and meandering streetscapes lined with Medieval sandstone houses. Art filled churches stand atop pre-Christian temples.  

Small artisan galleries and shops line the streets in the historic center. And the flowers! It seems that every street, window, doorstep, and wall are filled with green plants and flowers. Then there are the views. Situated high on a hill, the vistas are wide, green, and gorgeous. No wonder Spello is included in the list of I Borghi Più Belli d’Italia (The most beautiful villages in Italy).  

Two gastronomic things add to Spello’s charm – wine and olive oil. The local wine is Sagrantino, a bold red. The olive oil is also bold – a stronger, spicier variety than the Tuscan oils I am used to. Made from Moraiolo olives, the flavor was wonderful. I had a chance to sample both during lunch at Enoteca Properzio, a great place for tasting both the wines and olive oils with lots of info provided by the staff. Thanks to J. Gorwoda for some of the photos below. I was so busy enjoying my pasta that I forgot to snap any other photos at the restaurant.

With only 1 day to spend in Spello during a week exploring Umbria, I didn’t have a chance to fully explore all that the city has to offer.   The highlights of the day included:

• Wandering the steep and winding Medieval streets. Spello is full of twisting alleys, courtyards, and squares. One alley, the Vicolo dei Baci, must see lots of kissing couples. The architecture throughout town is lovely, and everywhere there are flowers.

• The Baglioni Chapel in the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. The interior of the chapel is stunning and filled with frescoes by Pinturicchio.  One problem – no photographs are allowed.  It took all my willpower to leave my camera in my purse. The photos below are from the web. Best to see it in person!

Just outside the Baglioni chapel is a small garden, Giardiano Hortus. A graceful gate marks the entrance; a series of brick arches the perimeter. It’s a quiet, simple space that made for a perfect break in the afternoon. Also fun watching this little boy picking a wild flower for his mom.

One thing I did not get to see during my visit was Spello’s famous Infiorata, the festival of flowers that marks the feast of Corpus Domini (Body of Christ).  Many towns have infiorate on this day, but Spello’s is one of the most famous. For the festival, the streets are carpeted with elaborate designs made of flowers. Teams plan their designs for months and work through the preceding night to create the displays. The date changes from year to year, generally held on the 9th Sunday after Easter. This year it was on June 21-22, in 2026 it should fall earlier in June, the 6 – 7th. I hope to be there to experience the Infiorata and to explore Spello in greater depth. There is so much more to see.

Street art in Spello proclaims that happiness is contagious. I agree!

Bright Shiny Objects in a Medieval Town

Lucca never fails to surprise and delight, especially when it comes to outdoor art.

One day in May, I spotted a bright, shiny object in Piazza San Michele. Large, geometric, and standing on point, it shimmered under blue skies on a sunny day. Even better, I watched as a child first touched it and then gave it a push, which set it spinning. I am not sure who was more delighted – the child, his mother, or me. This is outdoor art of the best kind – accessible, touchable, relatable, and engaging for people of all ages.

Expansión Geométrica II 2021 Gustavo Vélez.

Over the next few days, a collection of these modern art pieces appeared throughout the historic center of Lucca. The works, entitled Geometria Senza Confine (Geometry Without Borders), are the creation of sculptor Gustavo Vélez. The exhibit is presented by Oblong Contemporary Galleries and curated by Eike Schmidt. In all, 14 pieces are on display around Lucca.

Fiore VI, a sculpture in white Carrara marble by Gustavo Vélez. Piazza Anfiteatro, Lucca

Born in Colombia, Vélez has a studio in Pietrasanta, a city known for its sculptors and proximity to the Carrara marble quarries. Many of the pieces in the exhibit are marble, with works in bronze and stainless steel also included. Below: The same piece, Fiore VI, seems alive with movement when viewed from two different angles.

 According to the description by Oblong Contemporary Galleries, Vélez’s art “merges form, space, and movement” working “in dialog with historic spaces”. That makes Lucca the perfect background for this exhibit.

Hipercúbicos V in stainless steel, Gustavo Vélez 2024

The works are impressive in their scale, texture, and forms full of angles, curves, and waves. Seeing them surrounded by Medieval buildings adds a striking dimension. I am not sure if it was intentional or a happy accident brought about by Lucca’s historic setting, but several of the pieces have open spaces which offer glimpses of ancient buildings, stone arches, balconies. Others, the stainless steel pieces, have polished  surfaces which reflect the surrounding buildings, passersby, and even a certain blog writer with camera in hand. Each one invites inspection from all angles and in different lights throughout the day. I find myself taking detours as I walk through town just to walk by my favorites or to watch the one that spins delight people as they realize that they can interact with the sculpture.

 A few of the larger pieces are mounted on bases big enough to serve as benches. The pieces take on quite a different aspect when surrounded by people sitting below them – another way in which the art is immersed in the life of the city and accessible to all. 

The sculptures can be seen throughout Lucca from now through September 21.  They are a definite can’t miss for visitors to Lucca this summer.

Cono Geométrico 2023. Gustavo Vélez

Wandering Through Parma

When I think of Parma, located in the Emilia-Romagna region and one of my favorite places to visit, many things come to mind. There is of course the food – delicate buttery slices of Prosciutto di Parma, chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and beautiful filled pastas. If you can’t eat well in Parma then, well, I hardly know what to say. 

For anyone who enjoys food tours, Parma is a great place to book an outing to see how Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Aceto Balsamico are made. And, if you look down when walking through town, you will spot some tiles related to Parma’s food scene set into the pavement.

 Parma has wonderful museums, theaters, an annual Verdi opera festival, a beautiful cathedral and a stunning baptistery. The architecture is lovely and colorful and the city has an energetic vibe. And, if that were not enough, it also has fabulous public spaces and parks.

I took advantage of many of those things on my recent visit, but also spent some time just wandering through the city and enjoying a variety of neighborhoods, street scenes, and green spaces.

I especially enjoyed wandering through the Borgo del Gallo, a small neighborhood within the historic center of Parma. Just off one on Parma’s main streets, stepping into the alleys of Borgo del Gallo feels like stepping into a small village. The narrow street is lined with shops, markets, and cafes. It is a lively hub of activity with a unique character.

In the center of Parma, just in front of the Pilotta Museum complex is a public space centered around a huge shallow reflecting pool. Several monuments anchor the edges of the space. It is a place where locals sit and socialize, where children play, and a good place to cool off on a warm day or rest after a visit to the fabulous museums of the Pilotta.

Palazzo Ducale, Parma

My last wander took me to Parma’s Oltretorrente neighborhood. A literal translation of the word Oltretorrente would be “beyond the torrent”. It is the old part of the city, on the west side of the river that flows through town. My destination was the Parco Ducale, the park that surrounds a Palazzo that was once the home of Parma’s Dukes.

The park is Parma’s biggest green space. Lined with trees, it is a shady place filled with families, students, walkers, bicyclists, and dogs.  At one end is the Ducal Palace (now home to Parma’s police) and at the other a small man-made island with a central fountain. 

In between are grassy areas, walking paths, a playground, and an outdoor cafe. It is a fabulous spot for being outside in nature, relaxing, and people watching. 

Each of these spots are important to Parma’s history and day-to-day life. For a visitor, they make for a nice glimpse into the life of the city and a respite from a busy day of more “touristy” activities.

Astronomical clock, Piazza Garibaldi, Parma

High Above Bologna

Bologna is a fabulous place to visit. With its miles of porticos, Medieval buildings, ancient churches, historic university, fountains, beautiful piazzas, and its very own leaning tower, it makes for a fabulous stop on any northern Italian itinerary. And then there is the food. Bologna is where filled pasta takes center stage along with salumi of all types and gorgeous aged Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. It is a food lover’s mecca.

Going through the Porta Saragozza on the train to the Santuario.

But high above the city lies something that many visitors miss – the Santuario della Beata Vergine di San Luca (Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca). And that’s a shame, because it is a place of beauty and history. 

The Santuario lies 4.9 km (about 3 miles) from Bologna’s city center, up a series of steep portico lined steps that begin just beyond the historic 13th century city gate of Porta Saragozza. To make the walk is to undertake a pilgrimage, one not for the faint of heart (or weak of knees).

But there is another option – a small train departs from Piazza Maggiore in the historic center of Bologna and whisks passengers (well, more accurately it chugs slowly up the hill) along the portico and up to the Santuario. I normally avoid little tourist trains, but I make an exception for this one which stops right at the base of the Santuario’s broad terrace. After visiting the church, riders can catch the train back to town. Tickets cost €13 and the journey up to the church takes about 25 minutes.

The arches of the portico leading up to the Santuario. There are 666 arches total leading from Bologna city up the hill to the Santuario.

The portico itself is fascinating. Built beginning in 1674, it has 666 arches under which are several tiny chapels (once upon a time there were many more). Each year, in May for the Feast of the Ascension, the Byzantine Icon of the Madonna of San Luca is carried through the portico down to the city where it remains for one week at the Cattedrale di San Pietro (Cathedral of St. Peter, Bologna’s main church).  The icon then makes a return pilgrimage, up the portico, to the Santuario. The portico protects the icon from the elements during its journey down and back up the hill. Even for the non-religious, this is a fascinating slice of Italian history and culture.

Just one of the fabulous views from the Santuario atop the Monte del Guardia.

The Madonna of San Luca (from the website of the Santuario della Beata Vergine)

The Santuario sits on a hill, the Monte del Guardia. Its terrace offers panoramic views of the countryside, the hills, and the city of Bologna.  

The church was built on the site of a female hermitage for the purpose of housing the icon of the Madonna. The icon, which first arrived to Bologna in the 13th century, was originally cared for on this site by the nuns of the hermitage.

Consecrated in 1765, the original building has evolved and changed over the centuries. The current church, with its columns, marble, and gold trimmings, is quite ornate. It is filled with beautiful paintings and sculptures. Seeing art inside churches, where it was intended to be displayed, is always the best venue for appreciating the work. The art in the Santuario is no exception.

When visiting the church, definitely look up. The frescoed arches above the main and side altars are wonderful as are the large hanging lanterns. The small cupola, painted by the Florentine artist Cassioli in the early 1900’s, is lovely.

The setting of the Santuario is quiet and peaceful. The views are wonderful. The history is one of ancient legends and devotions. It is unique and fascinating, a not-to-be-missed place when visiting Bologna.

Prato’s Museo del Tessuto (Textile Museum)

Tuscany is not all rolling hills, art, vineyards, olive groves, and Medieval streetscapes.  A different Tuscany presents itself in the city of Prato. While Prato does have a historic center worth exploring, it is better known as the center of a thiving textile and fashion industry. 

Displays in the Textile Museum recount the history of cloth making and the fashion industry in Prato, including the role of Chinese immigrants.

The creation of textiles in Prato goes back to the 12th century, but it was the industrial revolution of the late 1800’s which fostered the growth of the industry.  Another boom period came with the end of World War II when Prato became one of Europe’s largest districts for textile and clothing manufacturing. Prato’s role in textiles and fashion continues today, in large part supported by the Chinese immigrants who began arriving in the early 1990’s. 

The history of textiles in Prato is celebrated in a small but fascinating and well-curated museum, The Museo del Tessuto. Established 50 years ago, the museum is now housed in a historic building – the former Compolmi textile factory. The factory was opened in 1863 by Vicenzo and Leopoldo Compolmi in a building that formerly housed a mill (and before that a convent). One of the fascinating aspects of the museum is seeing the former factory’s collection of machinery used in the manufacturing process along with implements used during different periods of manufacturing. 

Displays throughout the museum explain the evolution of fashion and style as well as materials used during different time periods. There are displays on types of fabrics, materials used to spin thread, and agents for coloring fabric. Many of the educational displays are hands on, giving visitors the ability to feel how different raw materials are to the touch. I owe these displays a big thank you for most of the info contained in this post.

Recently, I had a chance to visit the museum and see two special exhibits.  One, Silk Treasures, showcases fabric, small remnants, larger pieces, and intact garments, from the 15th – 18th centuries. Many were originally designed for Europe’s wealthy class and later recycled into garments worn by the clergy. The fabrics are woven with gold and silver threads as well as intense blues and reds, forming intricate and beautiful patterns. That they have survived for centuries seems like a miracle. The Silk Treasures exhibit will be on display until December 21, 2025.

The second special exhibit is quite different.  It is a contemporary and futuristic display of clothing crafted from velvet fabrics.  Entitled Velvet Mi Amor, it was created by father and daughter designers Stefano and Corinna Chiassai.

The Velvet Mi Amor exhibit has an eye-catching group of patterns, colors, and textures.

The exhibit, which runs through June 8th, includes 24 otherworldly figures clothed in a diverse range of velvets – prints, patterns, inlays, and laser cuts all have a place.  The oversize pants, jackets, shoes and hats, all in velvet, pull you in to take a closer look. You may even find some hidden messages in the patterns.   

Prato is easily reached by train in about 30 minutes from Florence or 60 minutes from Lucca.  The museum, including its well-stocked gift shop, is definitely worth a visit. And Prato, which hosts Italy’s second largest Chinese population, is just the place for a post-museum Chinese food lunch.

The gift shop at Museo del Tessuto