Good Memories of Traditional Italian Cuisine - Part Two

The chef at Osteria La Techie designed this plate which was then hand-painted and boxed as a memory for those who ordered the special menu.

Last week I began writing about my first experience with the Ristoranti del Buon Ricordo – the group of Italian restaurants dedicated to traditional, local, and authentic foods. Each restaurant makes a signature dish that is represented in a unique hand painted plate. Order the dish and the collect a plate as a memory.

After dining at Osteria La Tecchia in Pietrasanta last winter, and taking home my first plate, I knew I had found a new hobby – searching out the Buon Ricordo restaurants and building my plate collection.

Since I was planning a spring-time vacation in Emilia-Romagna and Umbria, I searched for places belonging to the Unione Ristoranti del Buon Ricordo in the cities I planned to visit. From the list of participating places, I chose two to visit on my trip. The first was in Parma (Emilia-Romagna region) and the other in Assisi (Umbria). 

In Parma, traditional ingredients include Proscuitto di Parma (and heaven help the person that calls it simply “prosciutto”) and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Both were featured in the dishes at La Forchetta, an upscale restaurant, where they use classic flavors, sometimes in non-traditional ways.

Earning a take-home plate from La Forchetta required ordering the full Buon Ricordo menu - an antipasto (starter), a primi (first course), a secondo (main dish) and a dolci (dessert). That’s a big meal so my travel companion and I decided (after discussing it with the server) to share the primi. One problem - at the end of the meal we were told that we should have ordered two of them if we wanted to each take home a plate and that since we shared we could only have one plate! Definitely not ok since we specifically requested the Buon Ricordo menu so we’d each earn a plate and it was the server’s suggestion to share the starter. It took a little negotiating, thank goodness I’ve learned to argue in Italian, but in the end, we did each take home a plate (because of course I’ve now hooked my friend on collecting them too). Lesson learned - clarify ahead of time exactly what needs to be ordered to get the plate!

The meal started with an “amuse bouche” (if there is an Italian word for this little pre-meal tease I do not know it). Almost too pretty to eat, it was a small dab of Parmigiano Reggiano mousse on a crisp wafer, served on a chilled stone block (left photo below).  Pretty fancy!

Our shared primi was a rich yet delicate soufflè with a parmigiano-reggiano cream topping. Plenty to share, but good enough to eat the whole thing. This dish was swoon-worthy; I may have to make a trip back to Parma just to taste it again.

Next came the specialty dish, a risotto with radicchio, Prosciutto di Parma dust, and gel di ribes (current jelly) topped with a Parmigiano-Reggiano cream. The flavors were unexpected and each bite was just a little different, savory with the cream, a bit sweet with the currents, slightly bitter with the radicchio. Wonderful! We were given a choice of secondi. I had guanciale di vitello (veal cheek) in a red wine reduction with creamy potatoes. Tender, deeply flavorful, and delicious. My friend opted for lamb chops crusted with pistachio, another great choice. Desert was a classic tiramisu.  Are you getting hungry yet? I am hungry just remembering this meal.

Plate #3 !

A few days later, it was on to Assisi and the Ristorante Buca di San Francesco. This family-run restaurant, set in a Medieval building near the Basilica, has a warm and cozy interior and a charming outdoor patio. The staff were warm, friendly, and helpful in explaining the dishes. Somehow they made it feel like we were dining in their home. Here you only need to order the Buon Ricordo specialty dish (not an entire menu) to earn a take-home plate. The specialty depicted on the plate is a soup typical of this part of Umbria, a type of cucina povera, the food of peasants.

Umbria is known for growing a variety of legumes and grains and this soup brings them all together in a happy chorus of beans, lentils, chickpeas, barley, and spelt. The rich flavor comes from the “holy trinity” of veggies – onion, carrots, celery – along with some garlic, lardo, olive oil, and spices. The soup is called Imbrecciata Umbra (not a typo, it is Umbra not Umbria in this use). On the plate Saint Francis stirs a cauldron of it as a wolf keeps watch. This soup, simple but with complex flavors, was definitely memorable.

Imbrecciata Umbra

The soup was followed by agnello (lamb) scottadito (scotta = burned, dito = finger) for me. Thin, flavorful, and tender they were delicious (though I did use knife and fork rather than burn my fingers).  For my travel companion, another traditional dish, spezzatini di cinghiale  (stewed boar) with polenta.  Both were delicious, but it was hard to top the soup!

Each of my three dining experiences at Buon Ricordo restaurants (so far!) were different, which is really the point.  Every one reflected local ingredients and traditional, regional foods. The atmospheres ranged from simple to cozy to elegant, with the foods matching the setting. I would be hard pressed to name a favorite, but my memory is strongest of that soup !

And now I have 3 colorful plates to remind me of those culinary memories. I will have fun searching for my next “plate” restaurant and adding to my collection.  To find restaurant locations go to the website for the Union deli Ristorante del Buon Ricordo - www.buonricordo.it

The pretty potion at Buca di San Francesco, Assisi

Rasiglia, An Enchanted Village in Umbria

A bit off the tourist trail in Umbria, in the hills surrounding the commune of Foligno, sits a magical place – the small hamlet of Rasiglia. This Medieval village is unique in that spring-fed streams run through town creating rushing waterways, pools, and waterfalls. The streams cascade downhill through the village, eventually joining the river Menotre at the base of the hill.

The streams in Rasiglia flow downhill from springs above the village. The largest spring is the Capovena at the top of the hill..

Because of those streams, which seem to outnumber the 50 or so permanent residents, Rasiglia is also known as Il Borgo dei Ruscelli (the Village of Streams). A visit to this village was top of my to-see list during a recent stay in Umbria. Only about a 30 min drive from my base in Bevagna, it made for a perfect day trip.

The streams flow through town, sometimes tumbling down the rocks and other times pausing to fill small basins.

Remants of the fortress that once stood at the top of Rasiglia

With origins in the 12th century, Rasiglia was once a fortified town. Now, little remains of the original fortress although remnants of a tower can be seen at the top of the village.

Most important to the town’s history, the streams that flow from the springs above the village provided the power used to run its mills and also provided the water needed for the weaving and dyeing of wool, an important industry in the region.

Today, visitors can wander through the historic town enjoying the beauty and sound of its many streams along with the pretty houses and flower filled spaces tucked in amid the flowing waters. There are also cafes and lunch spots, offering a charming spot for a mid-day pause.

Not to be missed are the historic grain mill and the weaving museum. Both give fascinating glimpses into Rasiglia’s history.

While Umbria has many beautiful, and much more famous, towns it was Rasiglia that most delighted me, transporting me for one day to a fairytale world where streams run through an ancient hamlet.

One Day In Panicale

With so many fascinating places to visit in Italy, what exactly drew me to Panicale, a hilltop village in the Umbrian Province of Perugia?

As so often happens when choosing a destination in Italy, it was the confluence of several things.  A seed was planted years ago when a fellow student at Lucca Italian School named it as her favorite place to spend time in Umbria, one of the Borghi Piu Belli di Italia (Most Beautiful Villages in Italy) situated high above the shores of Lake Trasimeno.  

Panicale’s Medieval center, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages

Then, last year, I began to watch the British TV series Signora Volpe, set in Panicale.  The scenes shot in the village drew me in and made me want to see it in person. Lastly, there was the Ruzzolone.  This historic competition, with roots going back to the Etruscan period, takes place on Pasquetta, the day after Easter.  I had to see it!

And so a plan took shape to spend Easter week in Umbria, with a day trip to Panicale on Pasquetta (Easter Monday) to see the Ruzzolone and explore the town.  It wasn’t hard to find a friend who wanted to join me.

Panicale is a hill town, with steep streets meandering up and down through the village.

Panicale is an ancient hamlet with beginnings dating back to the Etruscan period, centuries BC.  The more “modern” city is Medieval, with walls from the 13th century and a well-preserved Medieval streetscape.

Just inside the Porta Fiorentina lies Piazza Umberto I with its 15th century Travertine well.  The well figures prominently in the TV series Signora Volpe, as the place where a trio of older women sit to chat.  On the day I visited, it was a place where children played, people lingered, and visitors posed for photos.

Piazza Fiorentina with its 15th century pozzo (well)

The square is ringed with cafes and restaurants, and our afternoon began with a wonderful lunch at Il Gallo Nel Pozzo (The Chicken in the Well) as we soaked up the atmosphere of Panicale. After a post-lunch macchiato we were ready for the afternoon’s main event.

And what a fun afternoon it was! The Ruzzolone began just outside Porta Fiorentina where a crowd gathered to watch the giocchiatori (players) get ready for the annual Pasquetta rolling of the cheese.

The wheel of cheese is wrapped with a leather strap attached to a wooden handle which is used to launch the cheese down the course.

The competition, played by groups of village men, involves a wheel of Forma del Piave (a hard cow’s milk cheese) wrapped in a leather strap.  A wooden handle is used to launch the cheese down the hill, often at significant speed.  To win, the player must get the wheel of cheese to the bottom of the course with the fewest pushes. This may sound easy, but the wheels tend to roll off course, bounce off the stone walls (bystanders are warned to watch their shins lest a wayward wheel of cheese cause an injury), or roll off course and down the ravine.  

The Ruzzolone begins along this street just outside one of the town’s gates.

The first launch took place to much cheering (on this day it was “Paolo, Paolo” for whom the crowd cheered) and then the participants raced down the hill to see where their cheese stopped and to give it another push.  The crowd follows, or at least some of them do.  Others stay at the top of the course, socializing and sipping free wine.

The winner earns bragging rights and gets to keep the cheese.  Should it get smashed in the process, everyone gets a piece. After the official competition ended, visitors were invited to try their hand at launching the cheese down the hill.  After that, a huge chocolate egg was smashed, something all the kids gathered for.  Everyone gets a taste of chocolate.  And then they celebrate.

Pasquetta is a national holiday in Italy, a day known for picnics and fun with friends after the solemn period of Lent and the celebration of Easter.  For me, Pasquetta has never been more fun than when watching the Ruzzolone in Panicale.

April in Umbria

One of the Medieval gates leading into the historic center of Bevagna.

Umbria is an Italian region that is entirely inland – it does not touch the Adriatic, the Mediterranean, or the Tyrrhenian seas.  But lacking a seacoast does not mean that Umbria is without dramatic and fascinating landscapes.  The region is full of green valleys, medieval hill towns, olive groves, vineyards, and fields of flowers and legumes.

Even though I live just a short distance away in Tuscany, Umbria was not a region I had explored in any depth.  That changed recently when I spent Easter week based in the small Umbrian town of Bevagna. 

Just outside of Bevagna’s walled city is Le Case, one of two little houses set amid the vines of La Fonte Azienda Agricola.  The setting is quiet, peaceful, and lovely, providing the perfect base for exploring Umbria.  The agriturismo is run by the Trabalza Marinucci family, parents Patrizia and Guido and adult children Giulia and Francesco.  The family also includes 4 outdoor cats, a dog, and two goats.  They (the people, not the goats) are fabulous hosts who also offer wine tastings and aperitivo in the cantina located on the property.  And though I have always considered myself more of a city person, there was something about starting my days in the Umbrian countryside, overlooking the vineyards and surrounding hills, that was just perfect.  I will miss the views from “my” little house in Umbria and the feeling of inner peace that I felt among the vines!

Of course, it is not possible to explore all of Umbria in one visit, and there were many places we did not get to on this week-long trip.  But my friend and I made a good start at getting to know the region and found some unique experiences along the way.  Just one example is the historic Pasquetta (Easter Monday) Ruzzolone, a cheese rolling competition in the town of Panicale (more about that in an upcoming post).

April in Umbria is a time of misty mornings, afternoon showers, and stunning sunsets. 

A foggy morning outside of Bevagna, from La Fonte

April is also when poppies bloom.  They pop up along roadsides, in stone walls, at the edges of vineyards, and sometimes they fill big open fields.  To me, poppies are one of the best parts of spring. Seeing them is always a joyful reminder of the changing season.

Also in bloom in April are fields of yellow blooming rapeseed (used to make canola oil) along with a host of other flowers.  Queen Anne’s lace, lilac, Jupiter’s beard, wild mustard, little violets, wisteria, and tiny white daisies were everywhere.  Pink and white blossoms filled trees and wild figs had just the smallest figs beginning to grow. The hardest part of driving through Umbia was not stopping every mile to take a photo.

In April, the vines are just beginning to sprout leaves. Over just a week’s time we could see them getting bigger.  At the agriturismo they were already at work tending the vines.  La Fonte has several vineyards, some older and some newer vines, and different varieties of grape.  The leaves in the various fields were growing leaves at different rates.  The same was true of all the vineyards as we drove from valley to hillside – growth was very much determined by setting.

I will be writing more about specific towns over time, but today I hope you enjoy a bit of spring time in Umbria.

This little guy was happily picking wild flowers in a little garden in Spello.

A Walk Through Peccioli

Tuscany is dotted with hill towns, including several that are close enough to visit as a day trip from my home base in Lucca.  Barga and Montecatini Alto are easily reachable by train or bus.  Others, including Montecarlo, Collodi, Volterra, and San Gimignano, are an easy car ride away.  I’ve been lucky to spend time in each over the years I’ve been in Lucca but there are still so many hill towns left for me to explore!

 On a recent outing, arranged by The Tuscan Wanderer, we drove through the Valdera, the Valley of the Era River, as we returned to Lucca after a visit to a winery in the town of Terricciola.  This is not a region that I’ve visited before, and it requires a car, so I was pleased to join this group adventure.

Peccioli, viewed from the modern terrace suspended over the edge of town.

The Era River runs between Volterra and Pontedera in the Province of Pisa.  At Pontedera the Era joins the river Arno as it flows towards the sea.  High above the river valley lies the small hilltop village of Peccioli, easily spotted from a distance by the tall bell tower of its church.  How fortunate that this little hill town was one of our destinations! 

Peccioli’s most recognizable landmark, the campanile of the church of San Verano, can be seen from a distance down in the valley.

 Peccioli, like so many of Tuscany’s hill towns, has a Medieval layout and a long history of territorial wars as Pisa and Florence battled for control of the town.  Built in the 11th century around a now ruined castle, Peccioli has an historic center with a central piazza, an ancient church, and a series of narrow streets and small alleys. 

 Like most hill towns, there are great views. In Peccioli the vistas are down to the valley from one side of town and out onto Tuscan hillsides and farmland from the other side.  But much as Peccioli has in common with other Tuscan hill towns, it also has its own unique character.

What gives Peccioli its special flavor is the series of contemporary art installations found throughout town. 

Artists from around the world have created works of art and architecture specifically designed for display in Peccioli.  The contrast between the ancient and the modern is intriguing and lots of fun.

Throughout town are old doors, ancient brick structures, and houses fronted by pretty flowerpots mixed in with the more contemporary art pieces.

 Along an old brick wall are hundreds of photos of eyes, an installation called the Squardo di Peccioli.  The artist, Vittorio Corsini, photographed the eyes of Peccioli’s residents for his work.

A sky bridge connects the historic center with an elevator down to the newer parts of town below in the valley.  Titled Endless Sunset, the work by Patrick Tuttofuoco spirals around the walkway with a ribbon of color.  It turns what might be an ordinary bridge into a work of art.

 A large terrace designed by architect Mario Cuninella juts out from the edge of town, giving long views to the farmland and hills surrounding the town – a classic Tuscan view.

Our time in Piccioli was brief, a short detour on the drive between Terricciola and Lucca.  There are many more art installations to explore, museums to visit, and an historic center with shops and cafes in which to linger.  I am looking forward to a return visit.