Two Parts Italy

This week, more about Ravenna and another two of the city’s important historical sites. One is quite small and the other much larger.

First, the smaller of the two, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. Galla Placidia, born around 390 AD, was the daughter of a Roman Emperor (Theodosius I) and wife to both Ataulf, king of the Visigoths, and the Roman Emperor Constantius III. She was also the mother of an emperor. She was powerful in her own right, playing a major role in Roman life and politics. Her contributions to society included construction and restoration of churches, including the mausoleum named for her in Ravenna. Although it is called a mausoleum, the building was used as a chapel and it is not Galla Placidia’s final resting place.

The mausoleum is small and intimate, constructed in the shape of a cross. Plain on the outside, it is stunningly beautiful inside - full of mosaics in dazzling blues and greens, touches of red, and white robed prophets. All of the upper portions of the interior, including the dome, the vaults, and the arches, are filled with brilliant detail and symbolism. There are starry skies, flowers and vines, animals, and a host of religious figures.

So much beauty in such a small space is breathtaking. The intimate size is welcoming and It feels a bit like a spiritual hug.

Detail of one of the lunettes, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia

I didn’t imagine anything could compare, and yet, just across the grassy field, lies the Basilica of San Vitale…..

The much larger Basilica of San Vitale is different - less intimate, the building more angular outside with more distinct spaces inside. With decoration that goes from floor to ceiling it is hard to know where to look first.

Interior, Basilica of San Vitale, Ravenna

The mosaics are somehow less soft and more crisp, the imagery more clear. Where the Galla Placidia enchants you in to a mystic spirituality the San Vito demands you step up and take note.

Is one more beautiful than the other? Absolutely not, the Basilica is just as amazing but in a different way.

The Basilica’s website says that “getting out of San Vitale is not getting out of a church, is like being torn from a mother’s womb. You have to close your eyes because the light blinds (even if it’s not sunny), the voices deafen (even if people are not there), the world pushes and impacts”. I cannot argue. Stepping inside is to be transported to another world and on leaving it is quite a shock to discover the same old cacophonous world outside. It is that beautiful and enveloping.

The exterior of the Basilica is octagonal, unusual for a basilica, with buttresses. Inside there are huge columns, a central dome, two stories filled with arches and smaller columns (with some of the arches with painted ceilings rather than mosaics), and several alcoves. Pale translucent windows filter the light. Mosaic floors (detail below) are filled with pattern and muted color.

And the mosaics! The dominant color here is a soft green, with plenty of gold too. And almost every surface is decorated in mosaic scenes, even the arched entrances into each alcove. Bible scenes, saints, angels and apostles are everywhere.

With all of the mosaic filled churches in Ravenna, it is impressive that each has its own character and beauty. I couldn’t begin to choose a favorite among them. Put them all together and it is easy to see why Ravenna is filled with UNESCO World Heritage sites. What a treasure!

The region of Emilia-Romagna stretches from Tuscany to the Adriatic coast. Many of its cities are well known for their cuisine. It is some of the best in Italy - think Bologna, Parma, and Modena. Of course this region also makes some outstanding cars and motorcycles with famous names like Ferrari, Ducati, Lamborghini, Maserati. Beyond that, there is one of the oldest universities in the world, the University of Bologna. It is a region full of diverse riches including a host of UNESCO World Heritage sites.

The Treno di Dante makes a 90 minute stop in Brisighella on some of its itineraries.

There are still some hidden gems in Emilia - Romagna, places off the usual tourist routes. One of these places is the borgo (small village) of Brisighella. I knew nothing about this hamlet before I booked my passage on the vintage Treno di Dante (Dante’s Train) which made a stop there on the way to Ravenna. I included a few photos of Brisighella in last week’s post about the Treno di Dante, but I had so many more photos of this intriguing little village that I had to give it its very own post.

A 90 minute whistle stop doesn’t give nearly enough time to get to know this medieval village. But it’s enough time to spark curiosity and a desire to return. I am already thinking about another visit, perhaps next spring when there is a celebration of the local specialty, the Moretto artichoke. In the meantime, I will share some glimpses of this intriguing borgo.

Looking over Brisighella’s rooftops from up above the Via degli Asini

From the train station, it is a short walk through a pretty park to get to the center of town.

There is one primary street, lined with cafes, shops, and small restaurants. The buildings are colorful, artisan goods spill out of the shops to invite browsing, and there are lots of flowers. Even the street signs are interesting.

Small alleys and steep stairs branch out from the main road.

The views of the surrounding hills add to the joy of wandering through town.

Above the town are two landmarks. The first is the castle fortress, the Rocca Manfrediana, built in the 14th centrury. The second is the not-quite-so-old (19th century) Torre dell’Orologia (clock tower) that seems to rise magically from the rock formation at its base. In some ways the entire city seems to have risen from the rocks.

Rising above the main street is the Via del Borgo, also known as the Via degli Asini. Long ago this was an important defensive structure. Later asini (donkeys) climbed this street with their loads of gypsum. Today it is lined with small homes with characteristic wooden doors, pretty windows, and a series of arches framing views of the street below and the distant hills.

Up above the Via degli Asini is a pathway that leads to views of rooftops, distant hills, and the fortress. As for the donkeys, the only ones we saw were in a ceramic shop - a colorful souvenir of a stop in Brisighella.

Like other places in Emiglia - Romagna, Brisighella is supposed to have excellent food. On my short visit there was no time for lunch, just a quick coffee. This gives me one more reason to plan a return visit. Next time I will take the regular train, about a 3 1/2 hour journey from my home in Lucca. With winter coming up, I’ll enjoy doing some planning for spring adventures on cold winter morning.

Ravenna Part Two: Basilica di San Vitale and the Galla Placidia Mausoleum

A Walk Through Brisighella