3 Days of Music and Flowers in Lucca

The last weekend in April was a busy one here in Lucca. The weekend began on Friday evening with the smallest of the weekend events – a performance by two choral groups in the Oratorio San Giuseppe, a small chapel built in the early 1500’s.  Napoleon once used it as a warehouse, but today it is a small performance space with a historic interior and great acoustics.  Better still, my favorite local a cappella group, Coro Puntaccapo, performed.  Their style is swing, classic and modern pieces, in both English and Italian.  I never miss a chance to see them perform. 

For this evening, they were joined by Coro Melisma, a large chorus from Göteborg, Sweden.  They came to Lucca with wonderful harmonies, full sound, vocal runs, and their dry, Swedish sense of humor.   Each group performed individually at first but later as an ensemble singing everything from swing to pop to something you might expect from a Swedish group – a three minute mash up of Abba songs.  A fun evening to kick off a busy weekend.  (video on IG two_parts_italy and on Facebook)

 Saturday, April 25th, was a national holiday in Italy, la Festa della Liberazione (Liberation Day), marking Italy’s liberation from Nazi Occupation at the end of WWII. 

There were local ceremonies to mark this important date in history, a wreath was placed at the war memorial, and, as a national holiday, many visitors came to celebrate.  

Another big event, the Santa Zita festival, was ongoing throughout the weekend.  An annual celebration for Lucca’s own very popular saint, the festival has two main components.  The first takes place inside the Basilica San Frediano where Santa Zita (yes, the actual saint’s body) is placed front and center so that people may pay homage to her.  

Santa Zita in the San Frediano Basilica

And because Santa Zita is known for the miracle of the flowers, the second event fills the Piazza in front of the church with a floral “island” and fills the nearby Piazza Anfiteatro with a flower market.  This is an event that I always look forward to, especially since my own superstition is that a visit to Santa Zita on this day guarantees that I will be in Lucca for the next year.  In my experience it is more effective than coins in the Trevi Fountain and I am not about to take a chance by skipping it!

Sunday afternoon brought more music, this time in Lucca’s Teatro del Giglio with a performance of Puccini’s opera Turandot, 100 years after it made its debut.

Turandot was Puccini’s final opera, as he died before its completion. The final scenes were completed by another Italian composer, Franco Alfano.

When the opera permiered, with Toscanini conducting, he stopped the performance at the point in the opera that marked the end of Puccini’s work, not performing those final scenes. The performance today chose to end in the same way, presenting the uncompleted work just as Puccini left it. The performance was wonderful with dramatic stage sets, unique costuming, tremendous voices, and of course a moving Nessun Dorma.

It seems there is always something happening in Lucca, especially at this time of year.

One Spring Weekend in Lucca

Jazz at Caffè di Simo

Perfect spring weather has finally arrived!  Blue skies, temperatures in the mid to high 70’s, and slight breezes made for a wonderful weekend in Lucca. The weekend was full of activity and the city was filled with blossoms. There is no better time to be in Tuscany than spring.

On Friday, the first of a series of events took place at the Antico Caffè di Simo. The caffè has been closed since 2012, other than for a brief reopening for performances 2 years ago to mark the 100 years since Puccini’s death.  The historic café, with its elegant wood and glass interior, was a favorite “hang-out” for Puccini and his pals and looks untouched from his time.  It’s easy to imagine him sitting here, smoking (of course), and having great discussions with the literati of his time.  

This year a collaboration between the city government, a local cultural group, and the owners of the property will see the caffè opened for music, dance, and literary events on weekends from mid-April until mid-June.  This past Friday, the first performance was jazz with a lovely singer and an outstanding pianist.  At one point a man in the audience, who seemed to know the singer, got up and spontaneously began singing with her.  So much fun to watch!   No tickets needed, the free performances are limited only by the small number of seats in the caffè.  What a great way to start a weekend. Of course spring weather means outdoor aperitivi and the official start of Aperol Spritz season.  No one had to twist my arm to get me to enjoy a post-concert aperitivo on a pretty piazza.

The monthly antiques market is always fun to visit.

Saturday also brought the monthly antiques market, especially enjoyable with the spring weather.  The vendors are nearly always the same, but they bring some new and interesting items each time they set up their booths.  I still daydream about buying some of the bigger pieces of furniture (not practical with my small apartment) but have a hard time resisting other items - especially the vintage linens.

The local Misericordia (the ambulance service) hosted a Saturday fair in Piazza Napoleone. On display were some very old wooden “ambulances” alongside the more modern ones. Need to learn how to use a defibrillator? This was the place to go.

Sunday brought church bells and more great weather - a perfect morning for a coffee with a friend. We weren’t the only ones with that idea, as many of the pastry shops and cafes were filled with people enjoying the chance to sit outside, enjoying the weather and a simple breakfast.

Pasticerria Pinelli has a great spot under the arches on Via Beccheria

After coffee, a wander through town led to Piazza San Michele where the local Puccini Marching Band, complete with baton twirlers, was performing. The youngest twirlers were a delight. Always fun to watch, the music was lively and the crowd that gathered appreciative. (You can find a short video on IG two_parts_italy and on Facebook).

On a different side of the musical spectrum, a one-man band street musician entertained passersby on a street corner. From the look of his harmonipan, you might have expected some Ragtime music. Instead, he was playing a lovely Ave Maria.

It is hard to navigate around big tour groups

Spring weather also means an influx of visitors to Lucca.  Walking through town this weekend I’ve heard German, French, Japanese, and a variety of English accents spoken along with lots of Italian speaking visitors too. I enjoy meeting the visitors that spend some time here, especially blog readers who write me to say they are coming to Lucca.  I’ve met several of them in just the past week – all delightful.

The big tour groups however can be trying.  I admit to already having had a few moments of frustration with groups who take up an entire street, oblivious of people trying to get around them.  I am trying to remember to be patient, but I definitely do some mumbling about this.  An occasional Italian parolaccia (swear word) might creep in, sotto voce (under my breath).   If only I had a euro for each time I had to say “permesso” and squeeze by. Those euros just might overcome the worsening dollar to euro exchange rate!

It’s hard to beat a spring weekend in Lucca. I can’t wait to see what next week brings!

A tucked away garden in Lucca - a favorite spot to sit and read.

Hello April

I know that spring officially starts in late March, but for me it is the first of April that marks the true start of spring.  When the calendar flips to April 1st, I begin to look forward to a month full of blossoms, green leaves sprouting on the trees, and the annual springtime events that take place here in Lucca.

Wisteria in bloom - a sure sign of spring

Usually, the month starts with warming temperatures that hint of beautiful days to come, even if April showers sometimes require umbrellas. But this year gentle April weather has been a little late in arriving. The first week started out downright chilly and windy.  I even needed to turn up my heat on few cold mornings, something I rarely need to do in April.

One Italian social media poster claimed to be uncertain whether Easter lunch should include a Colomba (the traditional Tuscan Easter sweetbread) or a Panettone (which is served at Christmas).  With Easter coming quite early this year, and the chilly temperatures, that is a reasonable question.

Some signs of spring are starting to appear, despite the chill.  For one, wisteria are blooming across town.  That is always one of the best parts of spring.

In the markets, both asparagus and shiny green pea pods have made an appearance.  The shops have been busy as people gathered supplies for Easter lunch.  In Italy that is typically a family affair. For me it meant brunch with good friends.  Some of that gorgeous asparagus was definitely on the menu, along with some pretty yellow freesias from the twice weekly flower market.

Best of all, Easter weekend brought sunshine and the first spring like temperatures. Finally !

The week leading up to Pasqua (Easter) is always busy.  Good Friday was marked by a procession that harkened back to medieval times as it wandered through Lucca, complete with the barefoot men of the Misericordia carrying a large crucifix with stops made at small chapels and roadside shrines.  Ancient and meaningful, with chanting and prayers, it is an integral part of Easter time here. 

In the Duomo (Lucca’s main cathedral), an Easter week visit gave me a chance to see the restoration work that has been completed on the Tempietto del Volto Santo, the small, 15th century temple where Lucca’s 1500+ year old wooden crucifix is usually kept.

The crucifix itself was restored last year and is on display within the cathedral in the workshop were the restoration work took place.

The Tempietto work uncovered layers of history and hidden decorations. Behind where the crucifix usually stands, remnants were uncovered of frescoes that reflect patterns that might have been seen in Lucca’s Medieval era silk works. The inlaid floor, marble altar, and blue starry ceiling are wonderful. All are viewed through the intricate “cage” of the structure.

The Tempietto was just recently opened for public viewing (through April 19th). In early May the process of returning the Volta Santo crucifix to the Tempietto will begin.

On the lighter side of the holiday, Easter displays decorate shop windows and the pastry shops are full of holiday treats - Colombas, fancy decorated cakes, and sweets. And the chocolate shops have no shortage of Easter hens, bunnies, and giant cellophane wrapped eggs.

Preparing the wheel of cheese for the Ruzzolone in Panicale, Pasquetta 2025

An Italian Easter is a two-day affair, continuing today as Pasquetta (Easter Monday).  Pasquetta is a day for fun, friends, and picnics.  Or, as I learned last year when visiting Panicale on that day, a chance to participate in the Ruzzolone, where big wheels of cheese are sent rolling downhill – winner keeps the cheese. 

No such event takes place here in Lucca, so I’ll have a quiet Pasquetta that will certainly require a coffee with friends.

I hope you all had a Buona Pasqua. May you sneak in an extra day to celebrate Pasquetta Italian style.  

February into March

Clear blue skies and orange trees, beautiful a this time of year

The week when February turns into early March is a fickle one here in Lucca.   Some days are downright gloomy with gray skies, rain, and wind.  If you’re fortunate enough to have a fireplace (I am not, I admit to a bit of envy when I see smoke billowing out of a chimney), then a warm fire, a cup of coffee, and a book are just the thing.  Then, suddenly, a day of blue skies and sunshine comes along, teasing the notion of spring, only to be followed by a chilly day with clouds but no rain. 

Even within the same day, chilly mornings still require the radiator to be turned on, while warmer afternoons encourage the opening of windows.  One hardly knows how to dress – winter coat or light jacket?  Warmest scarf or lighter weight one?  In Italy it is most definitely still scarf season – after all, no Italian wants to get that hit of cold air on the throat which surely would lead to illness. 

Should I throw my gloves in my purse when going out in the evening ?  Chissa! (who knows).  All I know is that I am not yet packing away my winter clothing just yet.

The view of Palazzo Pfanner from Lucca’s wall, is always a welcome sight on my return to Lucca.

The nice thing about this time of year is that, unless it is rainy, it’s perfect weather for a walk on the walls surrounding the city center.  The trees are still mostly bare, with just the tiniest leaf buds, but the wildflowers are beginning to bloom. The mountains are visible in the distance through the bare trees.  Mothers walk (or jog) the wall with babies in strollers, dogs explore the new foliage, little kids ride bikes and so do adults. 

Since I’ve just returned to Lucca after 6 weeks away, I enjoy walking through town and along the walls to discover what is new or for the reassurance that some things are unchanged.

In town, the Magnolia trees burst into bloom last week, a recurring yearly event that is the first hint of spring. They only last a couple of weeks (less is the weather is awful) and seeing them against a blue sky is nature’s artistry at its best. We were lucky to have such a day last week!

Magnolias in bloom along Corso Garibaldi in Lucca, last week of February, 2026

Flowering bulbs and spring herbs have appeared in the flower shops, and bright purple artichokes fill baskets at the ortofrutta (green grocers).

On the walls is a new art piece - La Luna Innamorata (The Moon in Love). Colorful and larger than life, the scupture is part of a wellness and health initiative of the group Amici del Cuore. Finding new art installations in “real” spaces around town, where they are accessible to all, is one of my favorite things in Lucca.

The Boldini exhibit will be in town through early June

Early March is also the time to anticipate what is to come.  Art exhibitions are ongoing, perfect indoor activities to be enjoyed on a not-so-perfect day. Soon, it will be time for the Camellia Festival.  Later in the spring we’ll have the annual spring garden show followed by a classical music festival in May.

For me, March means that I will head to Trieste next week. Trieste lies in the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, one of Italy’s 5 “home rule” regions.  It is a unique area, part of Italy and yet more autonomous, with a location closer to Slovenia than to Rome. I am looking forward to spending two weeks there attending an intensive language program and exploring the region. I have been told to be prepared for sea views, windy weather, and great cafes with outstanding coffee.  Sounds perfect.  I’ll let you know!

Carnevale!

For the last couple of weeks Lucca has been full of events related to Carnevale, including my favorite - the parade along Lucca’s walls. It is a fun procession full of small floats (on loan from the big event in nearby Viareggio), elaborately costumed dancers, acrobats, and music. Spectators young and old line the walls to watch and party along with the performers.

The parade, along with other Carnevale events, is a bit of wild abandonment before the start of Lent. But I am missing all of it as I am currently in New Mexico ! Fortunately, I have friends in Lucca who keep me connected by sharing photos.

As this blog posts, on Monday morning February 16th, I will be boarding a plane to head back to Italy - 3 flights over about 21 hours. I should arrive tomorrow, jet lagged but ready to catch the tail end of the Carnevale events. Fingers crossed I arrive in time for some of the fun and that I will have some more photos to share!

In the meantime - a big thanks to Candace Grass for these photos!