Presepe, An Italian Christmas Tradition

One of the Italian Christmas traditions that I look forward to each year are the presepi*.  I can’t explain exactly why, but I find the Nativity Scenes fascinating. Is it because my mother set one out every year (how many times did she search the house for a missing baby Jesus)?  Or is it because of the beautiful Native American ones I learned to appreciate living in NM?  Maybe it is just a holdover from a childhood fascination with doll houses and miniature furnishings. Certainly part of my fascination is simply that the Presepi combine history, tradition, art, and incredible craftsmanship to form an evocative expression of the Christmas story. Whatever the reason, I always search for presepi in December when they appear in homes, churches, shops, and outdoor spaces.

A terracotta presepe in Florence

 In the US, the nativity scenes I grew up with were usually simple – the 3 main characters, a stable, perhaps a shepherd or two and a couple of animals.  Not so in Italy!  Here a traditional presepe is more likely to include a whole host of villagers and a town expanded well beyond a simple stable.  Many are set in elaborate landscapes complete with hills, streams, water wheels, houses, little fires, and lighted buildings.  The figures are beautifully carved (or molded), expressive, and representative of the many people who bring life to a village.

Most Italian cities will have at least one publicly displayed Presepe. Today, some are streamlined and modern, such as the one in Lucca’s Piazza San Michele designed by the Italian design company Alessi or the beautiful terra cotta one in Florence. But the classic ones are quite elaborate. Most remarkable were the ones I saw several years ago in front of St. Peter’s in the Vatican (below).   

 Even more amazing is a Presepe Vivente – a living nativity such as the one Lucca hosted recently. Watching it was an immediate transport into the past.  Over 100 participants, dressed in historic costumes, participated in a procession through town.  There was a serene Madonna holding a baby (not a real one in this case) accompanied by Joseph. Villagers carried food, coal, and firewood.  There were soldiers, prisoners, and Kings.  Some of the villagers led a donkey; costumed men rode in on horses.

Persons of all ages participated, from little children to elderly adults, all in costume.  They were accompanied by musicians and flag bearers as they made their way through the center of Lucca.

When the procession ended in front of the Church of San Martino, Mary and Joseph took their place in the stable, surrounded by costumed villagers.  Even the angels made an appearance while the narrator told the Christmas story.  

And whether a person celebrates for religious or traditional reasons, or does not celebrate Christmas at all, the historical and religious meaning is an important part of understanding Italian culture.  

What a beautiful way to begin the holiday season. 

*(Presepi is the plural form, the singular is presepe or presepio). 

Late November in Lucca

It’s hard to believe that November is nearly over, but a blast of very cold air this past week served as a reminder that winter is on its way.  After such a mild October and early November, many of us were scrambling to dig out our sweaters, hats, warm scarves, and gloves.  No complaints though – the colder temps are appropriate for late November and help to set the mood for the upcoming holidays.

Soon these fall gourds will be replaced with Christmas decor

 Here in Italy the 4th Thursday of November is just another workday.  But most of the Americans, residents and visitors alike, plan some type of celebration to mark Thanksgiving. Though the celebrations will have an Italian twist.  After all, how many of us here have ovens big enough to roast a turkey?  Or dining rooms that will hold a large group for a formal dinner?   Certainly not me with my miniscule kitchen, small fridge, and my tiny oven that is just barely more than the Easy Bake I had as a kid.  Still, we will gather with friends in small groups in homes or larger groups in restaurants to give thanks.  And we will catch up with other friends throughout the week.  In a new twist for me, this year I will share a fully catered meal with a few friends. It will seem strange to not be making my mother’s turkey dressing or preparing dishes to take to a big potluck dinner.  But my “usual” Lucca Thanksgiving group has scattered, some to new cities, some back to the US, some to travel adventures. And so it is time for something new.   My one nod to my usual American tradition will be baking my sister Patty’s Apple-Cranberry pie.  Luckily the local fruit and vegetable market managed to get some fresh cranberries just in time this year!

And of course there are lots of reasons to be thankful. My family, friends who come to visit (some of whom are wise enough to visit in November and December), some friends living here who’ve faced health issues this year but are now on the mend, the everyday joys of being in Italy, the gift of travel this past year, Lucca’s always vibrant culture, and the many blog readers who have reached out this year, come to visit, or written the emails that make my day. I appreciate you all!

One great thing about late November in Lucca is the special events that take place. The most unusual was a flash mob organized for the filming of a TV ad for next year’s Sanremo Music Festival.  The musicians were from the Boccherini Institute, a local music academy.  The singers were lovely as they added their voices to the orchestra playing a well-known song, Piazza Grande, made famous by Lucio Dalla and a past winner of the Sanremo competition.  (video on Instagram at two_parts_italy).  

Another event, Il Desco, took place this past weekend.  An annual celebration of foods from the Garfagnana, it is always a fun event.  The stalls are great places to buy the season’s new extra virgin olive oil, freshly ground chestnut flour, dried beans, and grains.  Bring a big shopping bag, because there are also artisanal breads, local honey, many different cheeses, and lots of meat products (think salami, guanciale, sausages, lardo).  Packaged gift trays too!

 The longest line at Il Desco was the one I look forward to the most – the line to order necci  – those warm and fragrant chestnut crepes filled with a variety of fillings (make mine fresh ricotta and honey please). 

Definitely worth the wait!

 Late November also brings the start of the Christmas season in Italy. With no Thanksgiving to delay its start, Christmas begins to sneak in just after Halloween. Over the past week we’ve watched as lights and decorations were hung high above the streets in the historic center of town and as big, bright, and colorful installations were placed in the piazzas. There were some fabulous holiday shop windows unveiled too and the start of the Christmas Market.  (More photos of Christmas in Lucca next week)

The weekend’s big event was the lighting of the huge Christmas tree in Piazza San Michele.  Quite a big crowd turned out, despite the chilly weather, for a glimpse of the tree lighting. There is a short video clip posted on Instagram (two_parts_italy).  A nice glass of red wine in a cozy bar did just the trick to warm us up afterwards.

A crowd gathered to watch the ceremonial lighting of the Christmas tree

I wish you all I wonderful Thanksgiving no matter where you may find yourself this week. 

Buona Festa di Ringraziamento!

Steampunk 2025

It’s been one week since the end of Lucca’s big Comics event and we are all breathing a sigh of relief at having survived the crowds and chaos.  Soon the tents will all be down (that takes a bit of time) and the city will have a period of quiet before the Christmas season begins.  Though here in Lucca, Christmas decorations are already showing up in window displays and shops.

But first, I will wrap up Comics with some photos from my favorite event, the Steampunk parade.  Actually, 3 days of Steampunk parades, each with a different theme but all with the hallmarks of Steampunk Style – Victorian elegance meets Industrial Revolution mechanical chic.  That means lots of fancy dresses and hoop skirts for the ladies, top hats and vests for the men.  The basic dress is then paired with goggles, gears, jet packs, brass arm braces, flying machines, interesting weapons, and telescopes.  

The Steampunk Italia group, which always has a big presence at Lucca Comics, goes all out in terms of costumes. It has to be the most photographed event of Comics, and for good reason. The creativity, self-expression, and cost (in terms of time and money) in creating these outfits is over the top.  Each day’s parade began in front of the San Michele church where participants posed for photos before beginning their procession through town. 

The theme for day one was Flotti Aeree, Air Fleets, with a mostly white and tan color scheme.  Every form of early industrial age flight was included.  Costumes included a variety of wings – feathered ones, canvas ones, and mechanical ones (steam powered of course). 

There were hot air balloons, propellers, flight helmets, goggles, and altimeters.

 Day two’s theme was Opere d’ Arte Viventi (Living Works of Art).  For this parade, the color of the day was mostly black and there were many picture frames added to costumes with the usual Steampunk sense of style.  Several well-known artists were represented along with many creative works of art. 

 The third and final day’s theme was a tribute to the world of Jules Verne. That world includes undersea and lunar exploration, travel, mad scientists, and flight. Some of the participants had entirely different costumes for this parade.

Look closely - can you spot Diana, one of Lucca’s own Steampunk enthusiasts, in three different costumes? Imagine the chaos in the dressing rooms after 3 days of different outfits!

Steampunk is the ultimate in cosplay events during the festival.  A big thanks to the Steampunk Italia troupe for all of their efforts to make this a fantastic event!

Lucca Comics and Games 2025

After a couple of weeks away from Lucca, I arrived back just in time for the 2025 edition of Lucca Comics and Games (Comics for short). The event is massive – Lucca’s narrow medieval streets, and every piazza, are packed full of people.  It is a little hard to imagine what 100,000 people look like when shoehorned into a small medieval city.  Trust me, it is wall to wall crowds. The thought of hurrying to get anywhere is laughable.  Going with the flow is the only choice. While I do grumble (often and loudly) about the crowds, somehow I find myself darting through them to take photographs. 

 This year’s theme was French Kiss, a nod to the influence of France in art, pop culture, and comics. The organizers further described the theme as Liberty, Creativity, and Diversity. All three of those values were on display, especially in the fantastic costumes.  The French theme showed up in various ways, berets and all.

I missed one photo opportunity that passed by too quickly  – men in black shirts that read “Louvre Security”.  They carried bags of jewels - a last minute but creative and theme-appropriate costume. 

 The first two days of the event were very rainy, but days 3 - 5 saw better weather.   Still overcast, but dry and 60+ degrees, it was perfect Comics weather and a nice Halloween treat.  It also meant that the costumes came out from under jackets and raincoats, filling the streets with all sorts of characters.

 It was entertaining wandering through Lucca taking photos.  The costumes ranged from simple to elaborate, from scary to fantastical, from prim and proper to sexy.  There were super heroes and princesses, monsters and angels, gaming figures and fairytale characters, steampunk cosplayers (my personal favorite), knights and ladies, cowgirls, ninjas, and men in drag. There were even a few creatures that I could not begin to identify, though many had the same pointy ears. 

A simple “posso?” and all were happy to stop and pose for photos.  

The crowds are quite well behaved, making it a safe space for families and kids. The kids were adorable! 

Whole families wore coordinating costumes, some even bringing along their dogs.

 Babbo Natale made an early appearance, stopping for lunch with some of his elves.

When it comes to Comics, pictures really are worth 1,000 words. Enjoy these photos.  Next week – Steampunk!

A big thanks to my friend Candice for sharing some photos for this post!

La Festa di Pane (The Festival of Bread)

Tourists, and big tour groups, are everywhere in Lucca right now. One of the challenges of living in an historic city!

Today, September 22nd, is the autumnal equinox, officially the first day of fall.  But, after having hints of fall weather in mid-September, this past weekend saw a return to summer-like temperatures.  Between the warm temperatures and the large number of tourists in town, it is hard to believe that fall is just around the corner.

The Settembre Lucchese events are still going strong, even after the conclusion of the Luminaria di Santa Croce event which happened a week ago. The past week has seen disco music in Piazza San Francesco, the monthly antiques market, and the start of Lucca Film Festival.  The Film Festival continues this week with film screenings and appearances by several well-known actors and directors.

My favorite event of the past weekend was La Festa del Pane (The Festival of Bread). The event, which took place in Piazza Napoleone, featured local Lucchese bakers who set up a bakery right in the piazza.  

In the pop up bakery they produced many different types of breads, from beginning to finished product.   Tables were laden with rustic loaves, whole grain ones, and even fancy shaped breads fresh from the ovens.  On Saturday, the star of the show were the various breads and focaccia. 

On Sunday morning, sweeter Lucchese specialties were baked. There were beautiful trecce (braids) studded with chocolate bits and loaves of Buccellato, a sweet bread scented with anise and dotted with raisins. Both are typical Lucca foods.

Another Lucca specialty also made an appearance, Torta di Becchi. This is an unusual local torta (not quite a cake, not quite a pie) with both sweet and savory elements.  Imagine a pastry crust filled with a mixture of chard, pine nuts, raisins, sugar, eggs, milk, and spices.  Perhaps a dash of rum or some candied citron.  The edges of the pastry crust are pinched up to form the becchi (beaks). It is a bit of an acquired taste, but a much loved one here in Lucca.

 Samples were handed out to the onlookers, making them very happy. The breads, pastries, and cakes could also be purchased for a donation, which went to support a local charity.

Un assaggio?

The Festa di Pane was a great way to sample some of Lucca’s specialty breads. It’s just one of the many Settembre Lucchese events that make this a great place to visit in September. 

Even Spider Man dropped by to serenade everyone!