Two Parts Italy

One of the Italian Christmas traditions that I look forward to each year are the presepi*. I can’t explain exactly why, but I find the Nativity Scenes fascinating. Is it because my mother set one out every year (how many times did she search the house for a missing baby Jesus)? Or is it because of the beautiful Native American ones I learned to appreciate living in NM? Maybe it is just a holdover from a childhood fascination with doll houses and miniature furnishings. Certainly part of my fascination is simply that the Presepi combine history, tradition, art, and incredible craftsmanship to form an evocative expression of the Christmas story. Whatever the reason, I always search for presepi in December when they appear in homes, churches, shops, and outdoor spaces.

In the US, the nativity scenes I grew up with were usually simple – the 3 main characters, a stable, perhaps a shepherd or two and a couple of animals. Not so in Italy! Here a traditional presepe is more likely to include a whole host of villagers and a town expanded well beyond a simple stable. Many are set in elaborate landscapes complete with hills, streams, water wheels, houses, little fires, and lighted buildings. The figures are beautifully carved (or molded), expressive, and representative of the many people who bring life to a village.

Most Italian cities will have at least one publicly displayed Presepe. Today, some are streamlined and modern, such as the one in Lucca’s Piazza San Michele designed by the Italian design company Alessi or the beautiful terra cotta one in Florence. But the classic ones are quite elaborate. Most remarkable were the ones I saw several years ago in front of St. Peter’s in the Vatican (below).

Even more amazing is a Presepe Vivente – a living nativity such as the one Lucca hosted recently. Watching it was an immediate transport into the past. Over 100 participants, dressed in historic costumes, participated in a procession through town. There was a serene Madonna holding a baby (not a real one in this case) accompanied by Joseph. Villagers carried food, coal, and firewood. There were soldiers, prisoners, and Kings. Some of the villagers led a donkey; costumed men rode in on horses.

Persons of all ages participated, from little children to elderly adults, all in costume. They were accompanied by musicians and flag bearers as they made their way through the center of Lucca.

When the procession ended in front of the Church of San Martino, Mary and Joseph took their place in the stable, surrounded by costumed villagers. Even the angels made an appearance while the narrator told the Christmas story.

And whether a person celebrates for religious or traditional reasons, or does not celebrate Christmas at all, the historical and religious meaning is an important part of understanding Italian culture.

What a beautiful way to begin the holiday season.

*(Presepi is the plural form, the singular is presepe or presepio).