Planes, Trains, and Epiphanies
It took me 3 planes, 3 trains, 2 airport shuttles, and an overnight in Rome to bring me from New Mexico back to Lucca a few days ago. This was a considerably more complicated itinerary than my usual return to Italy. The why of it will be a familiar story to anyone who has experienced a long delay in the process of renewing their permesso (the permit for a long term stay in Italy).
If only the Befana delivered long delayed permessi
My current permesso, which I have renewed annually for the last 6 years without difficulty, has been expired now since the end of August, caught up in bureaucratic delays. Without a valid permesso, and possessing only the receipt as proof that I am waiting for it to arrive, I am OK legally to be in Italy. But boy is travel complicated! Without it, travel is permitted only directly between Italy and one’s home country. No stopping in any other Schengen zone country allowed. Not even an airport layover to change planes is permitted. That meant that my usual path into Italy – the US through Germany and onto Florence was not possible and I would need to fly from Albuquerque, where I was visiting my family over the holidays, to a US city with a direct flight into Italy.
So, my return from New Mexico involved 3 legs – Albuquerque to Denver, Denver to Washington DC, and DC overnight to Rome. Getting from the Rome airport to Lucca required a short train ride on the Leonardo Express into the Roma Termini train station, followed by a fast train to Florence, and then a slower local train from Florence to Lucca. This seemed a bit much to do all at once, so I broke the trip up with an overnight near the Rome airport. So, 2 days of travel. 4 airports. 3 planes. 3 trains. 2 airport hotel shuttles. 1 hotel. Whew! Luckily all went smoothly and I am now happily back in cold, rainy beautiful Lucca.
The stage is set for La Befana’s arrival in Lucca later today.
I have arrived just in time for the final event of the Christmas season here in Italy – the celebration of Epiphany. Epiphany, or Three Kings Day, is the 12th day of Christmas. It marks the day when the Magi, following the Christmas star, arrived in Bethlehem with their gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh. But, they arrived without one important person – the Befana.
The Befana is an old woman, portrayed as a crone or a witch. The story goes that the three wise men stopped her to ask for directions on their way to Bethlehem. She directed them along, but declined to accompany them for she had much housework to do. Later, she tried to follow them but got lost. Ever after she has wandered around, on her broomstick, leaving goodies in the stockings of good children on the eve of Epiphany.
This Befana roamed the streets, along with a chorus and musicians, in Lucca on the evening before Epiphany.
In Italy, Epiphany is marked by re-creations of the Magi arriving in Bethlehem and by festivities related to the Befana. There are Befanas wandering the villages, Befana themed cakes, songs, dolls, and images.
In Lucca, on the eve of Epiphany, a troupe of musicians and singers gathered to sing about the Befana (video on Instagram and Facebook). The Befana herself accompanied them, delighting children with her basket of sweets. The legend of La Befana is an old tradition that remains an important part of the Christmas season here.
In Lucca, an annual event marks the arrival of the Befana in the Piazza San Francesco. She arrives from a rooftop in the piazza (with help from the local fire department).
Each year her arrival is just a little bit different (photos below are from 2 previous years). Later today she will arrive and rumor has it she will come in Babbo Natale’s sleigh (I will be on hand to watch, look for some photos on Instagram and Facebook late today).
The little ones will gather around as she tosses candies to the crowd on her way down from the roof top. And they’ll wait to receive stockings filled with candies or other goodies.
La Befana - what a fun way to bring the holiday season to a close.
As for the other meaning of epiphany – a sudden “ah ha” moment – I had one when I realized that the last two quarter century years have marked major turning points in my life. 1975 (the first quarter century year of my life) was the beginning of my “adult ” phase marked by graduation from college, my first professional job, a marriage. 25 years later, 2000 brought a big career change, the launching of my youngest child, and being suddenly single. Now, 2025 is here, possibly my last quarter century year unless I live to be 97 in 2050. I plan to make the most of it! I am hoping for joy in small things, some great travel, gentle opportunities for growth, pleasant surprises, and – finally – the arrival of my long term Italian permesso!
