Two Parts Italy

Lucca is a busy place in the weeks leading up to the winter holidays. Along with the tree lightings, street music, holiday processions, and Christmas concerts, there are a number of temporary markets. On the first weekend of December I counted 5 different markets. It was a full day visiting all of them!

The first stop was in Palazzo Sani for the Meraki Market. This annual market was filled with handcrafted goods by local artisans. It was the perfect place to shop for ceramics, hand painted paper goods, beautiful knit or felted hats and scarfs, wooden objects, and pretty linens - all within a centuries old palazzo.

Next stop, Piazza Anfiteatro. This large outdoor space was once the site of a Roman Amphitheater. These days it maintains the original oval shape but is ringed with shops, restaurants, and wine bars. A large, modern Christmas tree sits in the center of the piazza and, on the first weekend of December, visitors to the chocolate market filled the piazza.

Chocolate in just about every form possible made an appearance. There were several booths offering cioccolata calda con panna (hot chocolate with whipped cream). Others offered chocolate bars, discs, truffles, and fruits dipped in chocolate. There were special shapes and lollipops, even chocolate “salami”. Not a chocolate lover? Other options included ciambelle (Italian donuts rolled in sugar), crepes, and mulled wine. A little something for every taste.

The third market was in Piazza San Frediano. The small piazza was filled with wooden huts, very much a traditional Christmas market look. As always, the backdrop of the church with it’s wonderful mosaics, added to the scene.

For sale were a variety of foods (necci!), drinks, jewelry, and crafts. There was no shortage of Christmas decorations, including presepe figurines. Though small, this felt like the most authentic and local Christmas market - definitely my favorite!

The smallest market filled Piazza San Giusto. Less a holiday market than an arts and crafts fair, this was a good place to shop for gifts - turned wood pens, colorful decorative pieces, art, and jewelry.

The last market was the French Market which filled Lucca’s largest piazza, Piazza Napoleone. This is the city’s largest Christmas Market and it will remain open throughout December.

The booths are all decorated for Christmas, but, as this is a French themed market, the signs say Joyeaux Noel (instead of the Italian Buon Natale) and the products are traditionally French. It is like stepping into a neighborhood in Paris during the holidays. The market has a little bit of everything, from French linens to lavender scented soaps and lotions.

There was a definite emphasis on food at this market. One booth is a French bakery with croissants, baguettes, quiches, and delicate French pastries. Another is filled with French cheeses. One sells just about every type of French cookie imaginable. There is a booth filled with spices, teas, and coffee beans. If you need some French jam or honey, that is here too. It is impossible to go hungry at the December French Market, but totally possible to go home with a bag full of goodies.

Hats and scarfs? There is a booth for that. Jewelry? Check. Hot chocolate or hot mulled wine? Of course. And for a little time out, watch the Carousel in the piazza which is decorated for Christmas and filled with happy children.

Wandering the December markets in Lucca made for a fun weekend filled with holiday spirit.

A quick note: I recently realized that I had a lot of email from readers sent to a gmail account. That account was acquired in setting up the blog but it is not one I ever use, in fact I forgot it even existed. So, if I haven’t answered an email you sent me it is simply because I never saw it! I promise to respond if you use this email address - jobartram@comcast.net