Planes, Trains, and Epiphanies

It took me 3 planes, 3 trains, 2 airport shuttles, and an overnight in Rome to bring me from New Mexico back to Lucca a few days ago.  This was a considerably more complicated itinerary than my usual return to Italy. The why of it will be a familiar story to anyone who has experienced a long delay in the process of renewing their permesso (the permit for a long term stay in Italy).

If only the Befana delivered long delayed permessi

 My current permesso, which I have renewed annually for the last 6 years without difficulty, has been expired now since the end of August, caught up in bureaucratic delays.  Without a valid permesso, and possessing only the receipt as proof that I am waiting for it to arrive, I am OK legally to be in Italy. But boy is travel complicated! Without it, travel is permitted only directly between Italy and one’s home country. No stopping in any other Schengen zone country allowed.  Not even an airport layover to change planes is permitted.  That meant that my usual path into Italy – the US through Germany and onto Florence was not possible and I would need to fly from Albuquerque, where I was visiting my family over the holidays, to a US city with a direct flight into Italy. 

So, my return from New Mexico involved 3 legs – Albuquerque to Denver, Denver to Washington DC, and DC overnight to Rome.  Getting from the Rome airport to Lucca required a short train ride on the Leonardo Express into the Roma Termini train station, followed by a fast train to Florence, and then a slower local train from Florence to Lucca. This seemed a bit much to do all at once, so I broke the trip up with an overnight near the Rome airport.  So, 2 days of travel. 4 airports. 3 planes. 3 trains. 2 airport hotel shuttles. 1 hotel. Whew!  Luckily all went smoothly and I am now happily back in cold, rainy beautiful Lucca.

The stage is set for La Befana’s arrival in Lucca later today.

I have arrived just in time for the final event of the Christmas season here in Italy – the celebration of Epiphany.  Epiphany, or Three Kings Day, is the 12th day of Christmas.  It marks the day when the Magi, following the Christmas star, arrived in Bethlehem with their gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh.   But, they arrived without one important person – the Befana. 

The Befana is an old woman, portrayed as a crone or a witch.  The story goes that the three wise men stopped her to ask for directions on their way to Bethlehem.  She directed them along, but declined to accompany them for she had much housework to do.  Later, she tried to follow them but got lost.  Ever after she has wandered around, on her broomstick, leaving goodies in the stockings of good children on the eve of Epiphany. 

This Befana roamed the streets, along with a chorus and musicians, in Lucca on the evening before Epiphany.

In Italy, Epiphany is marked by re-creations of the Magi arriving in Bethlehem and by festivities related to the Befana. There are Befanas wandering the villages, Befana themed cakes, songs, dolls, and images.  

In Lucca, on the eve of Epiphany, a troupe of musicians and singers gathered to sing about the Befana (video on Instagram and Facebook). The Befana herself accompanied them, delighting children with her basket of sweets. The legend of La Befana is an old tradition that remains an important part of the Christmas season here.

 In Lucca, an annual event marks the arrival of the Befana in the Piazza San Francesco.  She arrives from a rooftop in the piazza (with help from the local fire department).

Each year her arrival is just a little bit different (photos below are from 2 previous years). Later today she will arrive and rumor has it she will come in Babbo Natale’s sleigh (I will be on hand to watch, look for some photos on Instagram and Facebook late today).  

The little ones will gather around as she tosses candies to the crowd on her way down from the roof top.  And they’ll wait to receive stockings filled with candies or other goodies. 

 La Befana - what a fun way to bring the holiday season to a close.

 As for the other meaning of epiphany – a sudden “ah ha” moment – I had one when I realized that the last two quarter century years have marked major turning points in my life.  1975 (the first quarter century year of my life) was the beginning of my “adult ” phase marked by graduation from college, my first professional job, a marriage. 25 years later, 2000 brought a big career change, the launching of my youngest child, and being suddenly single.  Now, 2025 is here, possibly my last quarter century year unless I live to be 97 in 2050. I plan to make the most of it!  I am hoping for joy in small things, some great travel, gentle opportunities for growth, pleasant surprises, and – finally – the arrival of my long term Italian permesso! 

European Christmas

Père Noël, the French version of Santa Claus, at the Notre Dame Christmas Market in Place René-Vivani in 2022.

Many of the Christmas traditions that we think of as American were actually brought to us by immigrants from Europe.  Even Santa Claus is an amalgam of several European figures. Saint Nicholas, England’s Father Christmas, and Holland’s Sinterklaas all have contributed to our idea of Santa. In a type of reverse migration, our New World Santa Claus now makes appearances in Europe. I’ve come across him many times in Tuscany and even in Paris where Babbo Natale and Père Noel have been joined by their American cousin Santa Claus.

We have Germany to thank for decorated Christmas trees, Advent Calendars, Gingerbread houses, and even candy canes. German-style Christmas markets take place across Europe, and similar holiday markets now pop up in many US cities.

Christmas Market in Rüdesheim Germany. 2024. Thanks to J. Gorwoda for this photo.

Nativity scenes arrived from Italy, where they are called presepe. There was always one in my home growing up, though it was much more simple than the ones I’ve seen in Italy. In Italy they take their presepe very seriously! The artistry in the nativity scenes is extraordinary.

Terra Cotta Presepe, Florence

Whether small table top versions, larger ones in churches, or the almost life size ones that appear in some of the piazzas, Italian presepe often include elaborate landscapes and figurines of all the villagers. The ones at the Vatican in Rome are some of the most elaborate that I have seen (below).

Heidelberg, 2024. Photo by J. Gorwoda

 With many of our holiday celebrations having their roots in Europe, it’s fun to plan a visit to the birthplaces of these traditions during the holiday season. But with so many magical European Christmas experiences to choose from, it is hard to pick just one!

One way to get a taste of Europe at Christmas is on a Christmas Market themed river cruise.  I loved the one I experienced along the Rhine with Viking several years ago. I have good friends doing the same one this month and I’ve enjoyed their updates (even if I am bit jealous). They’ve been drinking mulled wine, enjoying the scenery, shopping the markets, and tasting regional treats along the Rhine in 4 countries from Amsterdam to Basel, Switzerland. Thanks to them for contributing some photos for this post.

Coming from dry New Mexico, seeing snowy Christmas in the Black Forest was a treat for me on my Viking Christmas Market Cruise in 2012.

The city of Cologne hosts several markets, including one right in front of the Cathedral. The handcrafted items are wonderful! It was a great stop on my 2012 Christmas market cruise.

Arezzo, 2023

 I love visiting Christmas markets in Tuscany, especially the one I visited last year in Arezzo.

Arezzo’s market is the largest German style one in the region. At night, the city amazes with light shows projected on the ancient buildings.

Florence sparkles at Christmas. The market there is small but enchanting. The real stars of the show in Florence are the lights throughout town and the projections on monuments throughout the city.

Florence is magical at Christmas. This glittery street scene is from 2021.

Two of my favorite holiday markets are in France.  Paris lights up for Christmas. The streets, squares, and window displays are brilliant.  And the Galleries Lafayette - just wow!

Christmas along the Champs-Elysées, 2022

There are markets throughout the city.  The largest, in the Tuileries Gardens, is part carnival and part Christmas market.  Smaller, but perhaps my favorite, was just across the Seine from Notre Dame.  It was filled with handcrafted goods, local cheeses, art, and of course vin chaud (mulled wine).  Truly a feast for the senses! 

Strasbourg is another favorite.  Situated along the Rhine River, just across from Germany, it has a vibe all its own. This is the place to buy Christmas decorations, including the pretty hand crocheted ones that hang on my tree. It is a favorite stop on the Rhine Christmas market cruises.

Florence at Christmas, 2021

The list of European places I have yet to visit at Christmas is long.  Nuremberg.  Vienna.  Salzburg. Budapest. Naples.  

Christmas in London, though not technically Europe, sounds fantastic too.  After all, from England comes Christmas cards, carols, and the origins of eggnog (and I sure do thank them for eggnog).

It is too late to plan a trip to Europe for Christmas this year, but it isn’t too soon to daydream about 2025.  Even better, lets get busy planning! 

Christmas 2024

Christmas in New Mexico has its own charms

As I write this, I am sitting in my New Mexico condo which is all decorated for Christmas.  The tree is up, the mantle is filled with garland and shiny things. A bit of Christmas peeks out from all the nooks and crannies of my place. I am looking forward to a family holiday with my kids and grandkids.

And yet ….. I find myself thinking of all the Christmas time magic that I know is unfolding in Italy.

 In Italy, and certainly in Lucca, Christmas is everywhere.  It is found in simple door decorations and in enchanting shop windows.

It sparkles overhead along streets strung with lights. 

Chiasso Barletti, Lucca.  Photo thanks to S. Olson

Christmas can be found in piazzas filled with oversized decorations and artistic trees

 (thanks to S. Breedlove, C. LaSpina, and S. Olson for the photos above)

This year, a large Christmas market fills Piazza Napoleone along with a Christmas tree wrapped in gold. 

Piazza Napoleone Christmas Market, Lucca.   Thanks to S. Breedlove for this photo

A train, full of lights, has appeared in Piazza Anfiteatro where a backdrop of stars paints the buildings in lights.  

Piazza Anfiteatro, Lucca. Photo thanks to S. Olson.

In the historic center of Lucca, running daily errands at this time of year involves strolling through the Christmas decorations.  And a nighttime walk is truly magic! This year, since I am spending my every-other-year holiday in New Mexico, Lucca at Christmas is coming to me (and to you) through my friends who have kindly sent me lots of photos. 

I will catch the spirit in person when I am back in Lucca just after Christmas.  Lucky for me that Christmas time in Italy lasts through Epiphany on January 6th! 

How cute is this guy?   

Christmas Windows in Lucca, Italy

Casa Antica, on Via San Giorgio, is one of the best places in Lucca to find Christmas decorations. It is also great if just browsing.

Walking through Lucca at night in December is all about the lights. Strings of lights glow overhead along the streets. Trees and oversize ornaments fill the piazzas. A stroll through town on a December evening is pure joy.

Day time brings a different kind of joy. The days are all about popping into shops and gazing into shop windows.

The stores are full of decorations ranging from simple to extravagant. Much as I tell myself that I really don’t need more decorations for my small apartment, it seems that I always find something that I just have to have.

All through the city, shop owners create fanciful window displays that capture the attention of children and adults alike.

Candy shops and gift shops are especially well decorated but jewelry shops, pharmacies, butchers, bakers, and even a woodworking shop have fun window displays.

A temporary exhibit under the loggia in Piazza San Michele has wonderful presepe (nativity scenes) on display along with hand-painted traditional nativity figures for sale. Italian presepe are fascinating and include whole villages of craftsmen, workers, and villagers in detailed settings.

Other shops have draped their doorways in lights and greenery. Chiasso Barletti, a pedestrian alley filled with shops, rolls out the red carpet and decorates all along the passageway.

Ditta Galliani, on Via Roma, sells exquisite housewares. Their spectacular widow displays (below) change weekly during the holiday season. Each one showcases a different collection of holiday china, ceramics, glassware, and ornaments. The ever changing arrangements attract a lot of attention as people stop at the window to admire the latest version. Lots of photos are taken here!

This year I am headed to New Mexico to spend the holidays with my family and Albuquerque friends. I am happy to have experienced all of Lucca’s holiday cheer before I jumped on a plane for Christmas in New Mexico, where the traditions are very different from those in Italy but still wonderful. It will be fun to experience Christmas on two continents this year !

Another of Ditta Galliani’s window displays

Arezzo, Italy's Christmas City

Beginning in late November, and continuing through the beginning of January, the Tuscan city of Arezzo becomes the Citta del Natale, the Christmas City. 

During those weeks, Arezzo is home to Italy’s largest Tyrolean style Christmas market. The market showcases the best of Austrian and German holiday crafts and foods, with a unique Italian accent.  

 A visit to the market begins with a stroll up Corso Italia where shops are decorated and exquisite glass ornaments, tree toppers, and holiday tableware are on display. 

Santa Maria della Pieve, Arezzo, at Christmas

Also on Corso Italia is the Church of Santa Maria della Pieve.  It is well worth a stop inside the 6th century church.

Not only is the historic church beautiful, at this time of year the crypt houses a beautiful life size Nativity.

Continuing into the historic center of Arezzo, the small side streets are full of Christmas decorations.

Piazza Grande, the large central piazza at the heart of the city, is where the market begins.

The piazza is ringed by Medieval and Renaissance buildings and the beautiful Vasari Loggia. Together they provide a very Italian background for the market. 

 Small wooden huts fill the piazza.  Each one displays holiday crafts or ornaments. There are lots of little Christmas trolls, wooden nutcrackers and bells, along with colorful hats and gloves.

 The piazza also holds many baitine del gusto (tasting huts).  Huge stacks of sweet or salty pretzels, spit roasted pork, goulash, stuffed potatoes, and Italian panini are for sale. 

Other booths focus on sweets - chocolate, pastry, apple strudel. It’s impossible to go hungry at the Mercato! There are plenty of huts selling beer and hot mulled wine too. 

There is no shortage of cafes in the loggia at the upper edge of the piazza. A stop for a cioccolato caldo con panna montata (hot chocolate with whipped cream) provides a chance to warm up and just the boost needed to keep going until nightfall.

Nighttime brings a whole new dimension to the Piazza Grande.  When dark falls, projected lights splash patterns on the ancient building facades, each with a different pattern. Above the loggia, ornate snowflakes on a blue background cascade down the walls.  The intricate patterns transform the piazza and are stunning.

 Leaving Piazza Grande, the next stop is the Prato, the large park up above town near the Duomo.  More wooden huts with crafts, ornaments, and food fill the market in the park. A display of large fallen stars leads the way to the Prato.   

The Prato also comes alive after dark when the Bosco delle Meraviglie (Forest of Wonders) sparkles with trees wrapped in lights. The Ruota Panoramica, a large ferris wheel, turns high above the booths and the kids flock to the giostra (carousel).  Il Prato is full of Christmas magic.

 With just an afternoon and evening in Arezzo, the markets in Piazza Grande and the Prato filled my time.  A full day, or better yet an overnight, would have brought my group of friends to the Father Christmas House (lots of kids lined up there) and a Lego house made of 2 million Lego bricks.  Next time!

A trip to Arezzo for the Christmas market made for a wonderful start to the holiday season. A big thanks to Giovanni and Loreal at The Tuscan Wanderer for whisking us away to Arezzo for a wonderful day.