Presepe, An Italian Christmas Tradition

One of the Italian Christmas traditions that I look forward to each year are the presepi*.  I can’t explain exactly why, but I find the Nativity Scenes fascinating. Is it because my mother set one out every year (how many times did she search the house for a missing baby Jesus)?  Or is it because of the beautiful Native American ones I learned to appreciate living in NM?  Maybe it is just a holdover from a childhood fascination with doll houses and miniature furnishings. Certainly part of my fascination is simply that the Presepi combine history, tradition, art, and incredible craftsmanship to form an evocative expression of the Christmas story. Whatever the reason, I always search for presepi in December when they appear in homes, churches, shops, and outdoor spaces.

A terracotta presepe in Florence

 In the US, the nativity scenes I grew up with were usually simple – the 3 main characters, a stable, perhaps a shepherd or two and a couple of animals.  Not so in Italy!  Here a traditional presepe is more likely to include a whole host of villagers and a town expanded well beyond a simple stable.  Many are set in elaborate landscapes complete with hills, streams, water wheels, houses, little fires, and lighted buildings.  The figures are beautifully carved (or molded), expressive, and representative of the many people who bring life to a village.

Most Italian cities will have at least one publicly displayed Presepe. Today, some are streamlined and modern, such as the one in Lucca’s Piazza San Michele designed by the Italian design company Alessi or the beautiful terra cotta one in Florence. But the classic ones are quite elaborate. Most remarkable were the ones I saw several years ago in front of St. Peter’s in the Vatican (below).   

 Even more amazing is a Presepe Vivente – a living nativity such as the one Lucca hosted recently. Watching it was an immediate transport into the past.  Over 100 participants, dressed in historic costumes, participated in a procession through town.  There was a serene Madonna holding a baby (not a real one in this case) accompanied by Joseph. Villagers carried food, coal, and firewood.  There were soldiers, prisoners, and Kings.  Some of the villagers led a donkey; costumed men rode in on horses.

Persons of all ages participated, from little children to elderly adults, all in costume.  They were accompanied by musicians and flag bearers as they made their way through the center of Lucca.

When the procession ended in front of the Church of San Martino, Mary and Joseph took their place in the stable, surrounded by costumed villagers.  Even the angels made an appearance while the narrator told the Christmas story.  

And whether a person celebrates for religious or traditional reasons, or does not celebrate Christmas at all, the historical and religious meaning is an important part of understanding Italian culture.  

What a beautiful way to begin the holiday season. 

*(Presepi is the plural form, the singular is presepe or presepio). 

The Italian Holiday Calendar

This Babbo Natale, much like Santa Claus, greets people as the enter the Caffè Santa Zita in Lucca

The holiday calendar in Italy is a little different than the one found in the United States. In the US, the holiday season begins in late November with Thanksgiving and then moves through a multicultural series of celebrations – most years Hanukkah comes first, then Winter Solstice, next is Christmas, followed by Kwanzaa, and ending with New Year’s Day.  We may sing about the 12 days of Christmas, but by December 26th many Americans are back to work with only a day off coming for the New Year. The American holidays have a blend of religious, cultural, and family significance and tradition. Individuals may celebrate none of the holidays, only one, or any combination. Thanksgiving and New Year’s are US public holidays.  Hanukkah, Winter Solstice, and Kwanzaa are not. But what about Christmas? It would make sense that, as a religious celebration, it would not be a public holiday in the US and yet it is – well, sort of. The required separation of the religious and civic holidays was maintained by the 1870 law that created a federal holiday on December 25th. It is in fact, by US law, not exactly a Christmas holiday at all but rather the “December 25th holiday”. No such legal gymnastics are required in Italy!

Piazza Napoleone, Lucca was one of the first places to find holiday decorations this year

Lucca’s largest Christmas tree, in piazza San Michele, arrived in late November

Here in Italy there is no Thanksgiving to mark the start of the holiday calendar.  Another difference is that there seems to be much less multiculturalism in how the holidays are celebrated, at least in the smaller towns.  In Lucca, I have not seen Hanukkah or Kwanzaa celebrations, and those days are not considered public holidays, though there are certainly families who celebrate them.  It may be different in the bigger cities, but here the big holiday celebrations are all about Christmas.

The official start of the season is December 8th, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.  In Italy it is both a religious and a public holiday, a duality that is not at all unusual here.  Traditionally, that day is when the Christmas tree goes up and the Presepe (nativity scene) appears. But much like in the US, the season unofficially begins a bit earlier.   

First to appear are the decorated shop windows..  We may not have a big Macy’s display window here in Lucca, but the small shop windows are wonderfully decked out.  Walking through town to see the Christmas windows is one of my favorite holiday activities.

By the 4th week of November Lucca’s streets are hung with tiny white lights and overhead decorations. Larger holiday installations appear throughout the city and displays of stars, snowflakes, or other symbols of the season are projected onto the sides of the city’s medieval buildings. 

Other holiday events in late November / early December in Lucca include the opening of a temporary ice-skating rink, the start of the Christmas market in Piazza Napoleone (this year’s market features French products), and the lighting of the big Christmas tree in Piazza San Michele.

A big crowd turned out for the tree lighting ceremony

Throughout December the seasonal magic continues with concerts and street music, processions, Presepe, special markets, children’s activities including the Casa di Babbo Natale (Father Christmas’s house), and all the lights and sparkle that one little Italian Medieval town can muster.   Add in the various social events with friends and the whole month will be filled with activities. We’ll rest in January!  

It all comes to an end on January 5th and 6th with the celebration of La Befana, the Christmas witch.  On the evening of the 5th, Befana (perhaps several of them) will wander the historic center of Lucca.  On the 6th, Befana arrives for the children in Piazza San Francesco. Descending from a roof top (with the help of a crane and the fire department), she brings stockings full of candy to the children.  It is always fun to watch her arrival, surrounded by some very excited children. My own Befana keeps watch in my apartment throughout the season.

It’s December – let the holiday magic begin wherever and however you choose to celebrate the season.  

Planes, Trains, and Epiphanies

It took me 3 planes, 3 trains, 2 airport shuttles, and an overnight in Rome to bring me from New Mexico back to Lucca a few days ago.  This was a considerably more complicated itinerary than my usual return to Italy. The why of it will be a familiar story to anyone who has experienced a long delay in the process of renewing their permesso (the permit for a long term stay in Italy).

If only the Befana delivered long delayed permessi

 My current permesso, which I have renewed annually for the last 6 years without difficulty, has been expired now since the end of August, caught up in bureaucratic delays.  Without a valid permesso, and possessing only the receipt as proof that I am waiting for it to arrive, I am OK legally to be in Italy. But boy is travel complicated! Without it, travel is permitted only directly between Italy and one’s home country. No stopping in any other Schengen zone country allowed.  Not even an airport layover to change planes is permitted.  That meant that my usual path into Italy – the US through Germany and onto Florence was not possible and I would need to fly from Albuquerque, where I was visiting my family over the holidays, to a US city with a direct flight into Italy. 

So, my return from New Mexico involved 3 legs – Albuquerque to Denver, Denver to Washington DC, and DC overnight to Rome.  Getting from the Rome airport to Lucca required a short train ride on the Leonardo Express into the Roma Termini train station, followed by a fast train to Florence, and then a slower local train from Florence to Lucca. This seemed a bit much to do all at once, so I broke the trip up with an overnight near the Rome airport.  So, 2 days of travel. 4 airports. 3 planes. 3 trains. 2 airport hotel shuttles. 1 hotel. Whew!  Luckily all went smoothly and I am now happily back in cold, rainy beautiful Lucca.

The stage is set for La Befana’s arrival in Lucca later today.

I have arrived just in time for the final event of the Christmas season here in Italy – the celebration of Epiphany.  Epiphany, or Three Kings Day, is the 12th day of Christmas.  It marks the day when the Magi, following the Christmas star, arrived in Bethlehem with their gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh.   But, they arrived without one important person – the Befana. 

The Befana is an old woman, portrayed as a crone or a witch.  The story goes that the three wise men stopped her to ask for directions on their way to Bethlehem.  She directed them along, but declined to accompany them for she had much housework to do.  Later, she tried to follow them but got lost.  Ever after she has wandered around, on her broomstick, leaving goodies in the stockings of good children on the eve of Epiphany. 

This Befana roamed the streets, along with a chorus and musicians, in Lucca on the evening before Epiphany.

In Italy, Epiphany is marked by re-creations of the Magi arriving in Bethlehem and by festivities related to the Befana. There are Befanas wandering the villages, Befana themed cakes, songs, dolls, and images.  

In Lucca, on the eve of Epiphany, a troupe of musicians and singers gathered to sing about the Befana (video on Instagram and Facebook). The Befana herself accompanied them, delighting children with her basket of sweets. The legend of La Befana is an old tradition that remains an important part of the Christmas season here.

 In Lucca, an annual event marks the arrival of the Befana in the Piazza San Francesco.  She arrives from a rooftop in the piazza (with help from the local fire department).

Each year her arrival is just a little bit different (photos below are from 2 previous years). Later today she will arrive and rumor has it she will come in Babbo Natale’s sleigh (I will be on hand to watch, look for some photos on Instagram and Facebook late today).  

The little ones will gather around as she tosses candies to the crowd on her way down from the roof top.  And they’ll wait to receive stockings filled with candies or other goodies. 

 La Befana - what a fun way to bring the holiday season to a close.

 As for the other meaning of epiphany – a sudden “ah ha” moment – I had one when I realized that the last two quarter century years have marked major turning points in my life.  1975 (the first quarter century year of my life) was the beginning of my “adult ” phase marked by graduation from college, my first professional job, a marriage. 25 years later, 2000 brought a big career change, the launching of my youngest child, and being suddenly single.  Now, 2025 is here, possibly my last quarter century year unless I live to be 97 in 2050. I plan to make the most of it!  I am hoping for joy in small things, some great travel, gentle opportunities for growth, pleasant surprises, and – finally – the arrival of my long term Italian permesso! 

European Christmas

Père Noël, the French version of Santa Claus, at the Notre Dame Christmas Market in Place René-Vivani in 2022.

Many of the Christmas traditions that we think of as American were actually brought to us by immigrants from Europe.  Even Santa Claus is an amalgam of several European figures. Saint Nicholas, England’s Father Christmas, and Holland’s Sinterklaas all have contributed to our idea of Santa. In a type of reverse migration, our New World Santa Claus now makes appearances in Europe. I’ve come across him many times in Tuscany and even in Paris where Babbo Natale and Père Noel have been joined by their American cousin Santa Claus.

We have Germany to thank for decorated Christmas trees, Advent Calendars, Gingerbread houses, and even candy canes. German-style Christmas markets take place across Europe, and similar holiday markets now pop up in many US cities.

Christmas Market in Rüdesheim Germany. 2024. Thanks to J. Gorwoda for this photo.

Nativity scenes arrived from Italy, where they are called presepe. There was always one in my home growing up, though it was much more simple than the ones I’ve seen in Italy. In Italy they take their presepe very seriously! The artistry in the nativity scenes is extraordinary.

Terra Cotta Presepe, Florence

Whether small table top versions, larger ones in churches, or the almost life size ones that appear in some of the piazzas, Italian presepe often include elaborate landscapes and figurines of all the villagers. The ones at the Vatican in Rome are some of the most elaborate that I have seen (below).

Heidelberg, 2024. Photo by J. Gorwoda

 With many of our holiday celebrations having their roots in Europe, it’s fun to plan a visit to the birthplaces of these traditions during the holiday season. But with so many magical European Christmas experiences to choose from, it is hard to pick just one!

One way to get a taste of Europe at Christmas is on a Christmas Market themed river cruise.  I loved the one I experienced along the Rhine with Viking several years ago. I have good friends doing the same one this month and I’ve enjoyed their updates (even if I am bit jealous). They’ve been drinking mulled wine, enjoying the scenery, shopping the markets, and tasting regional treats along the Rhine in 4 countries from Amsterdam to Basel, Switzerland. Thanks to them for contributing some photos for this post.

Coming from dry New Mexico, seeing snowy Christmas in the Black Forest was a treat for me on my Viking Christmas Market Cruise in 2012.

The city of Cologne hosts several markets, including one right in front of the Cathedral. The handcrafted items are wonderful! It was a great stop on my 2012 Christmas market cruise.

Arezzo, 2023

 I love visiting Christmas markets in Tuscany, especially the one I visited last year in Arezzo.

Arezzo’s market is the largest German style one in the region. At night, the city amazes with light shows projected on the ancient buildings.

Florence sparkles at Christmas. The market there is small but enchanting. The real stars of the show in Florence are the lights throughout town and the projections on monuments throughout the city.

Florence is magical at Christmas. This glittery street scene is from 2021.

Two of my favorite holiday markets are in France.  Paris lights up for Christmas. The streets, squares, and window displays are brilliant.  And the Galleries Lafayette - just wow!

Christmas along the Champs-Elysées, 2022

There are markets throughout the city.  The largest, in the Tuileries Gardens, is part carnival and part Christmas market.  Smaller, but perhaps my favorite, was just across the Seine from Notre Dame.  It was filled with handcrafted goods, local cheeses, art, and of course vin chaud (mulled wine).  Truly a feast for the senses! 

Strasbourg is another favorite.  Situated along the Rhine River, just across from Germany, it has a vibe all its own. This is the place to buy Christmas decorations, including the pretty hand crocheted ones that hang on my tree. It is a favorite stop on the Rhine Christmas market cruises.

Florence at Christmas, 2021

The list of European places I have yet to visit at Christmas is long.  Nuremberg.  Vienna.  Salzburg. Budapest. Naples.  

Christmas in London, though not technically Europe, sounds fantastic too.  After all, from England comes Christmas cards, carols, and the origins of eggnog (and I sure do thank them for eggnog).

It is too late to plan a trip to Europe for Christmas this year, but it isn’t too soon to daydream about 2025.  Even better, lets get busy planning! 

Christmas 2024

Christmas in New Mexico has its own charms

As I write this, I am sitting in my New Mexico condo which is all decorated for Christmas.  The tree is up, the mantle is filled with garland and shiny things. A bit of Christmas peeks out from all the nooks and crannies of my place. I am looking forward to a family holiday with my kids and grandkids.

And yet ….. I find myself thinking of all the Christmas time magic that I know is unfolding in Italy.

 In Italy, and certainly in Lucca, Christmas is everywhere.  It is found in simple door decorations and in enchanting shop windows.

It sparkles overhead along streets strung with lights. 

Chiasso Barletti, Lucca.  Photo thanks to S. Olson

Christmas can be found in piazzas filled with oversized decorations and artistic trees

 (thanks to S. Breedlove, C. LaSpina, and S. Olson for the photos above)

This year, a large Christmas market fills Piazza Napoleone along with a Christmas tree wrapped in gold. 

Piazza Napoleone Christmas Market, Lucca.   Thanks to S. Breedlove for this photo

A train, full of lights, has appeared in Piazza Anfiteatro where a backdrop of stars paints the buildings in lights.  

Piazza Anfiteatro, Lucca. Photo thanks to S. Olson.

In the historic center of Lucca, running daily errands at this time of year involves strolling through the Christmas decorations.  And a nighttime walk is truly magic! This year, since I am spending my every-other-year holiday in New Mexico, Lucca at Christmas is coming to me (and to you) through my friends who have kindly sent me lots of photos. 

I will catch the spirit in person when I am back in Lucca just after Christmas.  Lucky for me that Christmas time in Italy lasts through Epiphany on January 6th! 

How cute is this guy?