Two Parts Italy

Père Noël, the French version of Santa Claus, at the Notre Dame Christmas Market in Place René-Vivani in 2022.

Many of the Christmas traditions that we think of as American were actually brought to us by immigrants from Europe. Even Santa Claus is an amalgam of several European figures. Saint Nicholas, England’s Father Christmas, and Holland’s Sinterklaas all have contributed to our idea of Santa. In a type of reverse migration, our New World Santa Claus now makes appearances in Europe. I’ve come across him many times in Tuscany and even in Paris where Babbo Natale and Père Noel have been joined by their American cousin Santa Claus.

We have Germany to thank for decorated Christmas trees, Advent Calendars, Gingerbread houses, and even candy canes. German-style Christmas markets take place across Europe, and similar holiday markets now pop up in many US cities.

Christmas Market in Rüdesheim Germany. 2024. Thanks to J. Gorwoda for this photo.

Nativity scenes arrived from Italy, where they are called presepe. There was always one in my home growing up, though it was much more simple than the ones I’ve seen in Italy. In Italy they take their presepe very seriously! The artistry in the nativity scenes is extraordinary.

Whether small table top versions, larger ones in churches, or the almost life size ones that appear in some of the piazzas, Italian presepe often include elaborate landscapes and figurines of all the villagers. The ones at the Vatican in Rome are some of the most elaborate that I have seen (below).

With many of our holiday celebrations having their roots in Europe, it’s fun to plan a visit to the birthplaces of these traditions during the holiday season. But with so many magical European Christmas experiences to choose from, it is hard to pick just one!

One way to get a taste of Europe at Christmas is on a Christmas Market themed river cruise. I loved the one I experienced along the Rhine with Viking several years ago. I have good friends doing the same one this month and I’ve enjoyed their updates (even if I am bit jealous). They’ve been drinking mulled wine, enjoying the scenery, shopping the markets, and tasting regional treats along the Rhine in 4 countries from Amsterdam to Basel, Switzerland. Thanks to them for contributing some photos for this post.

Coming from dry New Mexico, seeing snowy Christmas in the Black Forest was a treat for me on my Viking Christmas Market Cruise in 2012.

The city of Cologne hosts several markets, including one right in front of the Cathedral. The handcrafted items are wonderful! It was a great stop on my 2012 Christmas market cruise.

I love visiting Christmas markets in Tuscany, especially the one I visited last year in Arezzo.

Arezzo’s market is the largest German style one in the region. At night, the city amazes with light shows projected on the ancient buildings.

Florence sparkles at Christmas. The market there is small but enchanting. The real stars of the show in Florence are the lights throughout town and the projections on monuments throughout the city.

Florence is magical at Christmas. This glittery street scene is from 2021.

Two of my favorite holiday markets are in France. Paris lights up for Christmas. The streets, squares, and window displays are brilliant. And the Galleries Lafayette - just wow!

Christmas along the Champs-Elysées, 2022

There are markets throughout the city. The largest, in the Tuileries Gardens, is part carnival and part Christmas market. Smaller, but perhaps my favorite, was just across the Seine from Notre Dame. It was filled with handcrafted goods, local cheeses, art, and of course vin chaud (mulled wine). Truly a feast for the senses!

Strasbourg is another favorite. Situated along the Rhine River, just across from Germany, it has a vibe all its own. This is the place to buy Christmas decorations, including the pretty hand crocheted ones that hang on my tree. It is a favorite stop on the Rhine Christmas market cruises.

The list of European places I have yet to visit at Christmas is long. Nuremberg. Vienna. Salzburg. Budapest. Naples.

Christmas in London, though not technically Europe, sounds fantastic too. After all, from England comes Christmas cards, carols, and the origins of eggnog (and I sure do thank them for eggnog).

It is too late to plan a trip to Europe for Christmas this year, but it isn’t too soon to daydream about 2025. Even better, lets get busy planning!

One last holiday post – this time from Paris!

Paris is magical at any time of year, but especially so during the Christmas season. There are beautifully decorated shop windows, sparkling lights all around the city, and an abundance of Christmas markets. Add in the Eiffel Tower, a museum visit, stunning Parisian architecture, and wonderful French delicacies in pastry shops around town and it is all pretty perfect.

Along with all of that, the air is crisp (well, that is putting it gently – Paris was incredibly cold in December), the early sunset means the lights come on by about 4 pm, and everyone seems to be in a festive, friendly mood. Street musicians play Christmas music and people dressed up as Santa dance in the streets. Fun!

Vin Chaud (hot mulled wine) at the Christmas market in Place St Michel.

Some seasonal highlights:

The Christmas Markets.

Visiting the holiday markets was the main reason that my friend and I went to Paris in winter. They did not disappoint! The biggest
Christmas market is at the Tuileries Garden, along Rue de Rivoli and surrounding the Ferris wheel that takes passengers high above the rooftops of the city. The market includes a large food court filled with German and French specialties. Picture roasting sausages, large pretzels, escargot, raclette, vin chaud (hot mulled wine), and steaming cups of hot chocolate. There is a carnival-like atmosphere with lots of rides and games for children, an artisan market with handcrafted items, and Christmas decorations galore.

My two favorite markets were both near Notre Dame. The first is a Parisian institution - Le Marché aux Fleurs (The Flower Market) in Place Louis Lépine. Open year round as a plant and bird market, in December it adopts a holiday theme. The stalls are filled with gorgeous wreaths, trees large and small, ornaments, candles, and garden items. This is THE place to get your Parisian Christmas tree and holiday decorations. It is enchanting and festive and very Parisian.

The Marché de Noël Notre Dame Market lies just across the Seine in Square Viviani. This is not the largest holiday market in Paris but it is surely the most beautiful. Père Noël greets visitors at the entrance to the market which is arranged around a central winter wonderland. Artisan and regional specialty booths offer beautiful crafts, wonderful scents, classic foods, and lots of opportunity to buy gifts. This was definitely my favorite Christmas market.

Shop Windows and Shopping Centers

The Galeries Lafayette Haussmann is amazing even when not decorated for Christmas. The 100 year old building is crowned with an ornate stained glass dome and ringed with arched balconies around an open central area. At the very top is an outdoor viewing platform with spectacular views over Paris. The building itself is one of Paris’s top attractions. At Christmas it becomes even more incredible. There is a giant Christmas tree rising from the main floor towards the dome. Throughout the store are holiday themed displays sprinkled among the exclusive brand name merchandise. It is a unique and very glamorous Christmas experience.

By contrast, the smaller shops throughout the city have displays that are more restrained but very charming. This includes the pastry shops with their Buche de Noel (Yule logs), gingerbread cookies, and other delicious looking confections as well as wine shops, and a host of other merchants.

The Lights

It is hard to imagine how Paris, the City of Lights, can shine even brighter.

And yet, at Christmas, the addition of lights overhead and in trees along famous boulevards adds an extra measure of brightness.

My Christmastime visit to Paris was a brief 4 days, just long enough to give me a taste of the holiday season. Walking through a very cold Paris, from one market to the next, past churches, monuments, and beautifully decorated shops, was a joy. Taking warm-up breaks with a glass of hot chocolate, a coffee, or a glass of wine was a much-appreciated necessity in the frigid weather. Sampling wintertime dishes (onion soup!) was part of the fun. And while I am now back at home and ready for my Lucchese Christmas, I very much enjoyed my brief Parisian holiday escape.