Rue des Teinturiers in Avignon

Last week’s post began a walk through the charming city of Avignon in France’s Provence region.  This week, let’s continue walking, this time along my favorite street in Avignon, the Rue des Teinturiers. The walk begins not far from the Les Halles market, after crossing Rue des Lices, and ambles towards the old city walls.

 Teinturier is French for dyer, the Rue des Teinturiers is the Street of the Dyers. This cobblestone street, which runs along a small branch of the river Sorgue, is a mix of 21st century artistic, hippy vibe and the lingering spirt of the historic cloth guilds that were a big part of Avignon’s economic life in the 15th through 18th centuries. The canal provided the water source needed for dyeing silk in the 15th century and dyeing brightly colored cotton fabrics in later centuries.

One of the few remaining water wheels along the canal

The streets here are cobblestone, the large Sycamore trees create shade, and the old buildings and stone walls add to the sense of this being a different city and a different time from the rest of Avignon.  The last vestiges of the dyers are evident in the 4 water wheels that remain along the canal (once upon a time there were 23).  The mechanisms of the waterwheels are fascinating and almost seem like art.

The ruins of the Convent of the Cordeliers, with just the bell tower standing.

A walk here begins at Rue des Lices, crossing over to the start of Rue des Teinturiers. Here the ruins of a bell tower is all that remains of the Convent of the Cordeliers. 

Further down the street is the Chapelle des Pénitents Gris (Chapel of the Grey Prenitents).  The oldest part of the chapel dates from 1631 with additions ongoing through the 18th century. 

The Order of the Grey Penitents is even older than the chapel, established in the early 1200’s by King Louis VIII. 

Famous for a miracle that occurred during the floods of 1433, today the chapel is still used to celebrate that miracle and for religious services.  Enjoy the chapel from the street; the interior is only open during worship times. 

The Chapel of the Grey Penitents

 All along the Rue des Teinturiers are cafes, restaurants, galleries, and shops.  Sitting stream side with a cup of coffee and gazing at the old waterwheels provides a peaceful break from the busier parts of Avignon. The exception is in July when the theater festival brings lots of people to this tucked away part of the city.

Along the street, the old buildings have interesting windows and doors. The small homes sit across the stream, reached by little bridges.

There are also a series of carved stone pieces along the street.  These are not ancient symbols but more recent carvings by local sculptors. Meant as parking stops, they make for fun viewing and in a pinch can serve as a low bench. 

The walk ends at a busy street near the old city walls.  Best to turn around and walk again down the Rue des Teinturiers, headed back toward the center of Avignon.

You’ll be sure to spot some things you missed earlier!

Can you spot this creature above one of the shops along Rue des Teinturiers?

A Walk Through Avignon

Much as I love living in Italy, I also enjoy traveling to other places. France is a particular favorite, and Avignon, in the Provence Region of France, is a wonderful city to visit.  I was first introduced to the Avignon many years ago when I spent a few days there before embarking on a river cruise on the Rhône and Saône Rivers, headed north through central France.  I’ve returned a couple of times since and always find it fascinating for its history, culture, architecture, beautiful squares and local cuisine.  And while there are many museums, churches, and historic sites to visit in Avignon, a good place to begin when visiting the city is simply by taking a walk.

Here are some of the highlights for first time visitors on a walk through Avignon:

The Pont Saint-Bénézet is a medieval bridge famous as the subject of the French song Sur le pont d’Avignon.  Can you hum it?  “Sur le pont d’Avignon, l’on y danse, l’on y danse”.  Only four of its arches stand today (out of the original 22), ending in the middle of the river Rhône.  It is one of the most recognizable symbols of Avignon and a UNESCO World Heritage site.  View it for free from the riverbank or pay a fee to walk (or better yet dance) on it.  After viewing the bridge, it is a short walk through the massive city walls and into the historic center.

Pont Saint-Bénézet, Avignon (photo from Pixabay)

The Palace of the Popes is a huge Gothic building in the historic center of Avignon.  Built in the mid 1300’s, it served as the residence for 9 Popes during the years when the papacy moved from Rome to Avignon.  Today it is a museum and a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

I mostly admire the palace from the outside, standing in front of it in the large Place (Square) du Palais.  The square has with wonderful views of the palace and the cathedral with the gold statue of Mary on top.  First time visitors might take a break from their walk around Avignon, buy a ticket and go Inside to find frescoes, chapels, and interesting architecture but no furnishings.  Guided tours (or self-guided with an app) help explain the rooms and the history. 

The Place de l’Horloge (Clock Tower) is Avignon’s central, and very lively, town square.  The large square is shaded by trees and ringed with cafes, restaurants, and wonderful architecture. Look for both the City Hall and the Opera House here as well as just a glimpse of the clock tower which gives the square its name. 

Place de l’Horloge

This is also where the beautiful, old, carousel is found.  If traveling with kids, this two level carousel will delight  them.  Even without children, it is fun to watch the carousel go round and round.

Church of Saint Pierre

 A small, charming square sits in front of the Church of St. Pierre, one of the oldest and smallest churches in Avignon.  The façade is remarkable for its ornate carvings, twin spires, and stunning wooden doors.  There is an impressive bell tower too.  A small art gallery and the Restaurant L’Epicerie is also found in this square. It’s a great place for lunch or dinner. In good weather the outdoor seating provides a view of the church’s facade.

From Place St. Pierre it is a short walk (past some good shopping) to Les Halles, Avignon’s fabulous food hall.  Making a detour through Les Halles is a gourmet dream.  Also a good spot for lunch with its many little eateries.

Place Pie, with Les Halles on the left

A walk though Avignon includes some of the city’s many beautiful doors and windows.

Some of the windows are old and shuttered, some have pretty window boxes. Others are the famous painted windows.  These trompe l’oeil windows are a connection to the theater festival held each summer.  So don’t forget to look up at these “false windows” to see the some fun scenes.

The last stop on an introductory walk through Avignon is my favorite spot in town – the Rue des Teinturiers (Street of the Dyers). 

Though a part of Avignon, the Rue des Teinturiers feels like a different place and a different century.  I will write more about this fascinating street in an upcoming post.

This pretty door opens to the B&B Le Limas, a small but charming place to stay in Avignon

A Brief Introduction to Lyon, France

I first visited Lyon a decade ago.  That visit was much too brief – just a day long stop on a river cruise through southern France.  But I knew without a doubt that I would someday return for a longer visit.  

Lyon is France’s 3rd largest city (Paris and Marseille are numbers 1 and 2) and – though Parisians may argue – France’s gastronomic capital. Lyon is known for its markets, cafes, bakeries, bouchons (we might call them bistros), and restaurants. 

Below: A street market along the banks of the river Saône.

One of many hidden courtyards in Vieux Lyone

The opportunity to return to Lyon came this past May when a friend and I headed to Lyon for 3 days at the start of a longer trip through the south of France.   I had a few goals in mind for this visit –  first, an exploration of the oldest part of the city, Vieux Lyon, with its tiny alleys, secret passageways, hidden courtyards, Renaissance era architecture and fascinating history. 

Next, getting to know the Presqu’ile, the area tucked between the Rhône and Saône rivers.  It’s an elegant neighborhood full of classic Parisian-style buildings, impressive fountains, large public squares, theaters, museums, and several of Lyon’s famous building murals.  It’s also the neighborhood for great shopping, classy hotels, and wonderful food.   

This stunning fountain anchors the Place des Jacobins in the Presqu’ile district of Lyon.

Also on my must-do list was a visit to what has to be one of the world’s finest markets, Les Halles di Lyon Paul Bocuse.  Exploring local markets is something I love to do when traveling. I must have thousands of market photos from cities in Europe and the US.   Each country’s markets have a unique character. They are a great way to gain insight into the local culture and also great places to sit and people watch over a coffee, to pick up supplies for a picnic lunch, or to grab a simple yet tasty meal. Based on Lyon’s reputation as a mecca for good food, I arrived anticipating fresh seafood (oh the moules!), classic quenelles (a type of fish dumpling and a regional specialty), great bread, croissants (of course), and good wine.  Lyon did not disappoint and a visit to Les Halles market was a highlight.!

The Basilica of Notre-Dame as seen from along the Saône River, Lyon

Fourvière Hill is another can’t miss spot in Lyon. It sits high above the city’s historic old town (Vieux Lyon) and is home to the Basilica of Notre-Dame. The mosaic and sculpture filled interior of the church is breathtaking and the views over the city are fantastic from this vantage point.

Lyon is a joy to visit and was a great way to begin a longer trip in France. More details on Lyon in upcoming blog posts.  Stay tuned!

Planning Spring and Summer Travel

The end of February, the longest short month of the year, is in sight.  The last few days have been damp and chilly in Lucca. Today, there is a constant rain pouring down. That makes it perfect weather for staying inside and writing.   I always forget that 50 degrees in Lucca, with its deeply shaded medieval streets, cold stone buildings, and dampness, feels a lot colder than 50 degrees in the sunshine and dryness of New Mexico.  Add in some rain and the chill is inescapable.

And while the end of February may have us dreaming of warm weather, in Lucca we are still in scarfs and warm coats. But the desire to shrug them off and unpack a spring wardrobe is strong.  I wouldn’t mind hanging up my umbrella either.

A summer vision along the Ligurian coast.

With spring just around the corner, and summer not that far behind, I have been daydreaming of warm weather, breezes coming off the sea, lake vistas, blooming flowers, and drinks on sunny piazzas. 

The rainy days also have me looking through my cache of photos and daydreaming about past and future travel. It is time to get serious about planning some adventures for spring and early summer.

Living in Italy, the whole of Europe is within reach. The only problem is deciding where to go.

In the spirit of travel planning, today I will share photos of spring and summer European travel ideas. I hope they serve as inspiration as you daydream about your own spring and summer plans. They are definitely giving me some ideas.

I found that the daffodils were beautiful in the Netherlands the first week of April last year. It was a bit too early for tulips which were still a few weeks away.

Below (left to right) are some fun things to do in Spring within easy reach of Lucca: riding the funiculare up to Montecatini Alto, April in the Cinque Terre (before the summer crowds arrive), Montecarlo as seen from the old Fortezza, and Bagnone, a charming small town along the Magra river in the Lunigiana region.

The south of France is lovely in spring and early summer. This year I will avoid the Olympic crowds near Paris, but would welcome some time in the south. To that end, a Viking Cruise along the Rhône river from Lyon to Avignon is on my spring bucket list. Below: photos from the market in Uzès, a small village in the Languedoc region, and a wonderful place to visit.

Spain is another good spring and early summer destination. It is not a place I know well, but the time I spent in Barcelona a few years ago was memorable. I would definitely jump at the chance for a return trip. Some favorites, below: a panoramic view from the department store at Plaza de Catalunya, Park Guell, La Sagrada Familia Basilica, the Palau de la Musica

In the heat of summer, England and Scotland can offer a cooler get-away. Below top row: Chawton House and its gardens (perfect for fans of Jane Austen). Bottom row: the ruins of the chapel at Holyrood House and the famous Grayfriars Bobby Pub in Edinborough. Chilly even in August!

Back in Italy, a summer vacation at Lake Como brings hot temperatures and crowds, but gorgeous views and a chance to catch breezes while riding the boats that crisscross the water.

Lake Como is always a good place for spring and summer fun.

The Ligurian coast is a wonderful early summer destination - views, beaches, charming fishing villages, pesto, and fabulous seafood!

Camogli, a small fishing village on the Portofino peninsula.

Do you have other recommendations for spring and summer travel? Let us all know on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page.

Carousel, Marseille

The Everything in 1 Carry-on Bag Myth

I've read at least 100 articles about the virtues of fitting everything needed for a trip of any length, from 2 days to 2 months, into a single carry-on bag. I've read and reread them. I've tried to follow this advice, really I have.  I can almost do it too. I pare down to the essentials, I compress and I cram and I get the suitcase shut only to find that it is then too heavy for me to lift into an overhead bin.

Oh, the sense of failure that has plagued me each time I've packed, realizing at the last minute that I would not get everything into one carry-on sized bag that I could lift.

Varenna, Lake Como. This is the kind of terrain that requires traveling as light as possible

And then one day I realized that it's all a myth.  Who determined that we should only travel with a carry-on? It makes great sense if you are moving frequently between cities, dragging bags along cobblestones, hauling them onto a train every few days, trekking in the Alps. I get that. Packing light is definitely a good strategy. And of course the risk of a delayed bag must be considered - that alone can be a good reason to take only a carry-on bag.

But, while flying without checking bags may be ideal, some of us have a travel style that does not fit, or at least does not demand, a carry-on only strategy. That’s especially true when a trip involves a stay in a single city, no need to bring luggage on public transportation, and no schlepping of bags over rough terrain. Not that I am advocating huge suitcases and over-packing, I am just suggesting that there may be a middle road.

How I would love to arrive in Rome on a non-stop flight from the US. But from my base in New Mexico that just isn’t possible.

One big reason that carry-on only may not work relates to where the trip begins. When flights start from a major airport, with a direct connection to one’s destination, and a large plane, it’s fairly easy to manage with only a carry-on. I do envy those direct flights from the east coast to Rome! But my trips most often begin from a non-hub city which means a minimum of two legs with at least one leg on a small regional jet. Some of those smaller jets have overhead bins that are too small for even a mid-sized bag. That leads to the dreaded announcement that everyone needs to gate check their carry-on bag. The problem here is the wait for the gate checked bag to be unloaded. Those extra 15 minutes or so at the jet bridge can make a tight connection problematic and can even lead to a missed connection. Much better to check a bag all the way through to a final destination and avoid the gate check worry if flying on a small regional jet.

While I'm not particularly high maintenance, I do have some travel essentials and the older I get the more my list of essentials seems to grow. Eye glasses, medications, KT tape for sore knees, a sun hat, lots of ibuprofen, an umbrella, and comfortable shoes are all must and take up extra space. I can pare down clothing and do laundry during a trip. I am just fine with only 2 pairs of shoes.  Forget about dressy clothing. But I do want to look pulled together and have some variety in clothing, especially on a trip that includes some special events or a stay in a more sophisticated city. Some longer trips require bridging two seasons and a wide range of temperatures. Winter trips may require boots and other cold weather gear. It just isn’t always possible to fit everything needed into a carry-on bag.

Paris, December 2022. So cold! Packing included long underwear, gloves, boots, scarfs, warm sweaters, hats. No way would just a carry-on bag have worked especially on the regional jet between Florence and Paris !

Many people these days travel with medical equipment. They may bring a CPAP machine, folding cane, or other bulky supplies. And while US carriers generally allow an extra carry-on bag for medical equipment, many foreign carriers do not. In that case the CPAP machine goes into the one allowed carry-on bag, leaving less room for clothing and other essentials which must go into a checked bag.

So, I have finally decided to ditch the guilt and embrace a packing style that lies somewhere between a single carry-on bag and setting off for the continent with 3 steamer trunks.

Here are some of my self-imposed packing "rules"

My favorite bag to check is this relatively small Eagle Creek.

Rule #1 is that I must be able to handle my luggage by myself. If it’s too heavy, too bulky, or too numerous to manage on my own, it’s a mistake whether I have one bag or two. Yes, a kind, tall stranger may volunteer to lift a bag onto a train or into an airplane overhead compartment for me, but that is never something I count on. Nor would I ever expect a travel companion to do my heavy lifting. My bags, my responsibility. As for those folks struggling up train steps with oversize bags, expecting the nearest young man to lift the heavy bag for them, or juggling two huge suitcases down a narrow train aisle …. well, I simply shake my head and hope they’ve learned a lesson for a future trip.

Next rule: I am never tempted to go big just because a bag is being checked. My usual checked bag is an older and rather petite 22x14x8 inch Eagle Creek.  It actually meets carry-on standards for most airlines but works perfectly to check. This means I still need to be discriminating about what I pack. I can easily handle this not-too-big bag, along with my small carry on, when negotiating airports or even trains (see rule #1).  And once I’ve checked it at the airport, I have only a smaller carry-on and my “personal item” to contend with.

I love getting a message via my AirTag letting me know that my checked bag has safely arrived and will be waiting for me inthe baggage area.

A recent addition to my list of musts is to add an AirTag to any checked bag. This is a new travel essential. It was a big help when my checked bag did not arrive on time at the end of my recent flights from Italy to the US. The air tag confirmed that the bag was still in Frankfurt even when the airline’s tracking system told me it had arrived with me to the US. Knowing the bag’s location made tracking it down much easier. It arrived 2 days later with the AirTag sending me an update on its location every step of the way.

A small wheeled bag works as my carry-on to hold essentials and things I am reluctant to check. This includes a change of clothes (or two) in case the checked bag is delayed, jewelry, laptop, all medications, and other absolute essentials. It choose one just big enough to carry all of the items above, plus a travel CPAP, and yet not be too heavy to lift into the overhead. 14-16 inches high seems to be a perfect height for a roll-aboard bag. Having these essentials ensures that my trip will be off to a good start even if my checked bag should be delayed.

Some travelers prefer a duffel type carry-on without wheels. They are definitely easier to fit into overhead compartments. But I have no interest in lugging around a duffel. Give me spinner wheels any day! I also appreciate a rigid handle so that I have the option to slip a personal item over the handle of my carry-on, making for one-hand-free movement. The carry-on bag will go in the overhead compartment, so it is important to avoid putting anything needed during the flight into this bag.

I'm all about organizing both my checked bag and my carry-on. I love Eagle Creek Specter compression bags!  They are practically weightless and go a long way toward reducing the bulkiness of clothing. I love these so much that I often give them as gifts to my traveling friends.

In addition to a small carry-on bag, most US and European airlines allow a personal item such as a purse, small backpack, or satchel. I am not a fan of backpacks, mostly because I’ve been whacked in the head with someone else’s backpack during the boarding process all too often. I much prefer a purse or tote bag. Into this goes anything needed during a flight. My list always includes: a pashmina, antibacterial wipes, an overnight kit with medications and any toiletries that I will need in flight, a couple of face masks. I also put in a magazine, noise cancelling earbuds, phone, a small case with chargers, cords and adapters, tissues, prescription glasses, a snack, mints, and a tiny cross-body purse. A small thermos, which I fill with coffee or tea after going through security for a bit of in-flight comfort, also tucks into my tote bag. My passport holder is clipped into an internal zip pocket.  The tote goes under the seat and so is easy to access during the flight. 

I am a bit embarrassed to admit how many personal items / totes I have owned over the years. It seems I am always on a search for the perfect one and have bought (and set aside) many more than I will own up to. Some were too large, or too heavy, too structured, some too narrow or without enough pockets.

Despite having several still tucked away in my closet, the bag I almost always end up using as my personal item is my Baggallini tote. It is lightweight, flexible, has lots of organizing pockets inside and out, an internal zipper compartment for a passport, two exterior pockets that fit a thermos or water bottle, and it fits easily under even the smallest of airplane seats. It also has a luggage sleeve, something I consider essential. Mine is nearly 10 years old and still looks new. It has the best combination of being light weight, functional, and just the right size of any tote bag I’ve found.

I will head back to Italy in a couple of weeks with a checked bag armed with an AirTag for tracking. My little roll-aboard will go in the overhead and my Baggallini tote will be under my seat. Since I will have a car to take me straight to my Lucca apartment from the airport, no train travel involved, the extra bag is not a problem.

More power to the travelers who can go carry-on only. I admit that I still envy you but I have learned to be ok with my need for a checked bag.

Time to start packing!