As Summer Winds Down

Stinco is a pork shank, tender and wonderful the meat falls off the bone

The calendar says that summer is almost over, though the weather has yet to provide any hints of fall. Temperatures are a little better than they were a couple of weeks ago, but still hot, humid, and sticky.  I’ve had a busy couple of weeks since my return to Lucca, including a move to a new apartment and carting more boxes than I can count to the recycle bins. Fortunately, those chores were balanced out by a couple of fun events.

First, a sagra with a group of old and new friends.  A sagra is a community event, usually held in summer or fall, a festival built around a local specialty dish.  The cooking is done by volunteers (community or church groups, lots of nonne and nonni).  Dining is outdoors at long tables, and the food usually is served cafeteria style – get your tray, go through the line, pick what you’d like.  Sometimes you buy a ticket at the start, which covers everything, and other times you pay at the end based on what dishes you’ve chosen.  Don’t forget to stop by the booth selling wine!

Over the years I’ve been to sagras that celebrate a special type of onion (the Treschietto from Bagnone), rigatoni, polenta, porcini, roasted meats, and soup.   Each one a local specialty and delicious.  Every sagra also served a variety of dishes beyond the featured one, plus wine and a dessert.  

Stinco

Last week’s sagra was in Massarosa, not far from Lucca.  The Sagra dello Stinco featured pork shank – a delicious big piece of pork so tender it nearly fell off the bone. 

There were also a couple of different pasta dishes, grilled chicken, steak, fried fish, quarti fritti (lovely, salty fried dough pieces to layer with prosciutto), bruschetta with tomatoes.  Water, beer, wine.   Desserts, a cream filled torta di nonna or a chocolate filled torta di nonno, rounded out the menu.   Taking place in a not-too-hot summer evening with music, laughter, and friends and it added up to a perfect Italian summer night.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  The last weekend in August also saw the 13th edition of the Notte Bianca (White Night) in Lucca.   This is an end of summer celebration in which most of the city’s museums, along with famous towers and palazzi, are open late (with free entry). Shops stay open well past normal closing times as well. 

Early in the evening there was a creative activity for kids in Piazza San Michele.  As the night progressed, there were multiple sound stages with DJs in the large piazzas and smaller DJ stages or groups performing along many of the streets, a percussion group parading through the streets, and lots of interesting things to see and hear.

No small event - some 60,000 people participated. Perhaps not the thing for anyone who dislikes crowds and loud music, but definitely fun to experience for at least some of the evening.

One favorite was the giant keyboard, played by two people dancing across the keys, in Piazza Cittadella. 

 Another favorite – the groups of dancers in several of the squares.  Everything from tango to zumba, it was not possible to see them all. I chose to watch the salsa dancers in Piazza San Frediano.  Impossible not to move to that beat!

The final event, at midnight, was an acrobatic troupe.  Too late for me – I was home by then but still could hear the music drifting through my windows.

Notte Bianca was a great way to wind down the summer season and begin to think about fall.

Now if only fall weather would make an appearance.

Planning Spring and Summer Travel

The end of February, the longest short month of the year, is in sight.  The last few days have been damp and chilly in Lucca. Today, there is a constant rain pouring down. That makes it perfect weather for staying inside and writing.   I always forget that 50 degrees in Lucca, with its deeply shaded medieval streets, cold stone buildings, and dampness, feels a lot colder than 50 degrees in the sunshine and dryness of New Mexico.  Add in some rain and the chill is inescapable.

And while the end of February may have us dreaming of warm weather, in Lucca we are still in scarfs and warm coats. But the desire to shrug them off and unpack a spring wardrobe is strong.  I wouldn’t mind hanging up my umbrella either.

A summer vision along the Ligurian coast.

With spring just around the corner, and summer not that far behind, I have been daydreaming of warm weather, breezes coming off the sea, lake vistas, blooming flowers, and drinks on sunny piazzas. 

The rainy days also have me looking through my cache of photos and daydreaming about past and future travel. It is time to get serious about planning some adventures for spring and early summer.

Living in Italy, the whole of Europe is within reach. The only problem is deciding where to go.

In the spirit of travel planning, today I will share photos of spring and summer European travel ideas. I hope they serve as inspiration as you daydream about your own spring and summer plans. They are definitely giving me some ideas.

I found that the daffodils were beautiful in the Netherlands the first week of April last year. It was a bit too early for tulips which were still a few weeks away.

Below (left to right) are some fun things to do in Spring within easy reach of Lucca: riding the funiculare up to Montecatini Alto, April in the Cinque Terre (before the summer crowds arrive), Montecarlo as seen from the old Fortezza, and Bagnone, a charming small town along the Magra river in the Lunigiana region.

The south of France is lovely in spring and early summer. This year I will avoid the Olympic crowds near Paris, but would welcome some time in the south. To that end, a Viking Cruise along the Rhône river from Lyon to Avignon is on my spring bucket list. Below: photos from the market in Uzès, a small village in the Languedoc region, and a wonderful place to visit.

Spain is another good spring and early summer destination. It is not a place I know well, but the time I spent in Barcelona a few years ago was memorable. I would definitely jump at the chance for a return trip. Some favorites, below: a panoramic view from the department store at Plaza de Catalunya, Park Guell, La Sagrada Familia Basilica, the Palau de la Musica

In the heat of summer, England and Scotland can offer a cooler get-away. Below top row: Chawton House and its gardens (perfect for fans of Jane Austen). Bottom row: the ruins of the chapel at Holyrood House and the famous Grayfriars Bobby Pub in Edinborough. Chilly even in August!

Back in Italy, a summer vacation at Lake Como brings hot temperatures and crowds, but gorgeous views and a chance to catch breezes while riding the boats that crisscross the water.

Lake Como is always a good place for spring and summer fun.

The Ligurian coast is a wonderful early summer destination - views, beaches, charming fishing villages, pesto, and fabulous seafood!

Camogli, a small fishing village on the Portofino peninsula.

Do you have other recommendations for spring and summer travel? Let us all know on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page.

Carousel, Marseille

A Day in Bellagio

Bellagio is the most famous of the towns along the shores of Lake Como. It is considered a touristic “must see” and has more visitors than any of the other towns.  Blessed by an enviable location, Bellagio sits at the very spot where the lower lake splits into two branches, Lake Como continuing to the southwest and Lake Lecco to the southeast.  The dividing spot at the tip of the peninsula is named the Punta Spartivento, the point where the wind divides.  The views of the lake from this spot are hard to beat.

A Traghetto (car ferry) is one type of ferry that brings visitors to Bellagio.

With such a prime location, and with frequent boats ferrying visitors between Bellagio and the other mid-lake cities, Bellagio has a little something for everyone – stunning scenery, a flower filled waterfront promenade, beautiful hotels, wine tasting, fine dining, and some great shopping.

There is an upper part of town, along Via Garibaldi, and a lower part along the lake shore. The two are connected by a series of “streets” which are not streets at all but staircases.  Salita Serbelloni is the most famous of these staircases.  This wide series of steps, lined with shops, galleries and restaurants, leads from Via Garibaldi in the upper portion of Bellagio down to the waterfront.  The views are fabulous and the shops have beautiful things, but beware - the often crowded steps and lack of handrails are not ideal for anyone with balance or mobility issues.  Sure-footed people seem to bounce up and down the steps with ease, often stopping for photos of the lake view and selfies. 

Salita Serbelloni

For anyone wanting to avoid the stairs, it is possible to reach the upper portion of Bellagio by walking left when exiting the boat dock, past the pretty Hotel Villa Serbelloni, and up Via Roma where a sidewalk leads more gently up the hill to Via Garibaldi. I like to follow that path, explore the upper part of Bellagio, and then take one of the less crowded staircases at the far end of Via Garibaldi down to the lake front. 

San Giacomo Church

Near the north end of Via Garibaldi is Piazza della Chiesa, home to the church of San Giacomo.  The stone church, built in the 11th century, is plain on the outside but the inside shines with gold adornments – mosaics, an ornate golden altar, and a shimmering apse.  When the bells ring the entire piazza is filled with their beautiful sound. 

Piazza della Chiesa has a central fountain, an ancient tower, and a ring of shops, art galleries, and cafes.  It’s a great spot to stop for a coffee or to begin some serious Bellagio shopping. My first shopping stop was in the L’Angelo delle Idea, filled with hand made glass pieces and glass Christmas ornaments (always a good souvenir). 

Continue down the narrow street to find a variety of shops.  If in need of provisions for the kitchen, they can be found at the fruttivendolo (green grocer), the Macellaria e Salumeria (butcher and deli shop), or the shop selling fresh pastas.  You’ll also find shops with beautiful silks, good quality handbags, shoes, and jewelry. 

My favorite shop, and one of the best for good quality souvenirs, is the Bottega di Legno della Famiglia Tacchi, situated near the top of the Salita Serbelloni.  The Tacchi family have been woodworkers since 1855.  The shop is is one of the oldest in Bellagio.  Here you’ll find beautiful wood housewares (don’t miss the rolling pins!), wooden toys, Christmas ornaments and beautifully carved nativities along with an assortment of other wooden products.  Peak into the back room with its workbench and old tools and you can imagine a long ago craftsmen at work. 

 After exploring Via Garibaldi, a walk down any one of the Salitas leads down to the waterfront.  Salita Genazzini (a few minutes walk past Salita Serbelloni) is a good choice.  Not only is it narrower and less crowded, but it leads to my favorite spot for a light lunch or a wine tasting, Enoteca Cava Turacciolo..  Inside, the low stone ceilings, wooden tables and rows upon rows of wine bottles provide a moody, cozy atmosphere.  In warm weather, small tables sit outside and run up the steps of the salita.  The generous platters of meats and cheeses, along with bread and buttery green olives, paired with a choice from over 300 wines, is a perfect Bellagio lunch and a great break before exploring the waterfront areas.

From the base of Salita Genazzi, a left turn leads to Bellagio’s pretty lakeside promenade lined with trees, flowers, and wonderful views.  Stop for a minute at the memorial commemorating a visit by President Kennedy in June of 1963. Further on are the gardens of Villa Melzi.  

A right turns leads back toward the ferry stops.  Bellagio has two – one for the traghetti (car ferries) and one for the passenger ferries.  Along the way are more shops and a covered passageway (a nice break from the summer sun) with upscale shops, mostly aimed at tourists, and restaurants.

Bellagio’s ferry docks get crowded in high season - best to arrive well before departure time.

Many tourists make a quick stop in Bellagio and then hurry on to the next village on a hop-on, hop-off boat tour of the lake.  I prefer to spend a full day in Bellagio with plenty of time to wander, enjoy the scenery, stop for a coffee or a gelato (maybe both), visit the church, have a leisurely lunch, do some shopping, and take a late ferry back to my home base in Argegno. No matter which plan suits your travel style, Bellagio is definitely a lake town worth visiting.

An Italian June in Photos

Finally, the first week of summer has arrived.

In Italy that means the start of warm humid weather, blue skies, sunshine, picnics, and beach days. And lots of tourists.

(photos above taken along the Ligurian coast, near Levanto, Camoglie, and Rapallo, June 2019 & 2022)

Early summer mornings and evenings are perfect for leisurely stops in umbrella filled piazzas for morning coffee or an evening cocktail. A caffé shakerato, cold and foamy espresso, is the perfect mid-day jolt of caffeine. In the late afternoon and evening, the tables in the piazzas are sure to glow with glasses of the bright orange summer drink that seems to be everywhere - the Aperol Spritz. Slightly bitter and sparkling with Prosecco, the spritz is quintessential summer in Italy.

June also means wonderful fresh fruits and vegetables displayed like art in the markets.

Summer also means flowers on doorsteps and balconies and on the terraced hillsides. In June there is color everywhere you look.

And let us not forget gelato! Whether in the city or in a little beach town, it isn’t summer without gelato. Equally refreshing is a granita made with fresh fruit. The best granita I’ve ever eaten was made with ripe mango and was enjoyed along the harbor in Camoglie last summer. I can almost taste it still.

Do you have some June in Italy photos? If so, please share them on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page. Give us all more inspiration to plan a June vacation in Italy!

Levanto: The Perfect Base for Exploring the Cinque Terre

I am still enjoying my August break, so I’m posting mostly photos again this week, all from the town of Levanto, my favorite base for exploring the Cinque Terre.

The harbor at Levanto. Ferries to the Cinque Terre and Portovenere call here.

Levanto is the first town just to the north of the Cinque Terre. It has many things in common with the 5 villages: beautiful views, a charming pedestrian center, good restaurants, a ferry dock with connections to the Cinque Terre villages.

Levanto (the locals pronounce it with the accent on the first syllable Lay-vanto) also has fewer crowds, lower prices, and a great stretch of sandy beach. There are gorgeous villas and gardens, an historic old town with winding lanes, a medieval loggia, ancient churches, and an easy hike to an old castle.

Although it is a definitely a beach town, somehow it feels more like a community, a place to settle in and relax. For me, this is in part because of the friendly welcome I always find at the charming B&B A Durmì where sisters Chiara and Elisa make you feel like part of their family. They have great rooms, the prettiest courtyard, and delicious breakfasts. All that and beach towels, umbrellas, and great recommendations for dining and local activities.

Or maybe it’s the small town activities, like the Infiorata Festival that took place during my June visit. A team of local women and children arranged a path of flower displays leading through town to the church in celebration of a religious holiday.

Of course there is also great food to be found in Levanto - seafood, pesto, and a local specialty of giant fried ravioli stuffed with herbs. It’s worth the effort to find wine bar La Compera. This is a small place tucked away in a hidden piazza, away from the tourist center. They serve amazing bruschetta and local delicacies along with a nice wine list and great cocktails. They even made “mocktails” for the kids!

Summer holidays + Levanto + the amazing coastline of Liguria = summer perfection!
Contacts: A Durmì Via Viviani 12 19015 Levanto SP email: info@adurmi.it

La Compera. Piazza della Compera 3. 19015 Levanto SP. email: lacompera@gmail.com