Rue des Teinturiers in Avignon

Last week’s post began a walk through the charming city of Avignon in France’s Provence region.  This week, let’s continue walking, this time along my favorite street in Avignon, the Rue des Teinturiers. The walk begins not far from the Les Halles market, after crossing Rue des Lices, and ambles towards the old city walls.

 Teinturier is French for dyer, the Rue des Teinturiers is the Street of the Dyers. This cobblestone street, which runs along a small branch of the river Sorgue, is a mix of 21st century artistic, hippy vibe and the lingering spirt of the historic cloth guilds that were a big part of Avignon’s economic life in the 15th through 18th centuries. The canal provided the water source needed for dyeing silk in the 15th century and dyeing brightly colored cotton fabrics in later centuries.

One of the few remaining water wheels along the canal

The streets here are cobblestone, the large Sycamore trees create shade, and the old buildings and stone walls add to the sense of this being a different city and a different time from the rest of Avignon.  The last vestiges of the dyers are evident in the 4 water wheels that remain along the canal (once upon a time there were 23).  The mechanisms of the waterwheels are fascinating and almost seem like art.

The ruins of the Convent of the Cordeliers, with just the bell tower standing.

A walk here begins at Rue des Lices, crossing over to the start of Rue des Teinturiers. Here the ruins of a bell tower is all that remains of the Convent of the Cordeliers. 

Further down the street is the Chapelle des Pénitents Gris (Chapel of the Grey Prenitents).  The oldest part of the chapel dates from 1631 with additions ongoing through the 18th century. 

The Order of the Grey Penitents is even older than the chapel, established in the early 1200’s by King Louis VIII. 

Famous for a miracle that occurred during the floods of 1433, today the chapel is still used to celebrate that miracle and for religious services.  Enjoy the chapel from the street; the interior is only open during worship times. 

The Chapel of the Grey Penitents

 All along the Rue des Teinturiers are cafes, restaurants, galleries, and shops.  Sitting stream side with a cup of coffee and gazing at the old waterwheels provides a peaceful break from the busier parts of Avignon. The exception is in July when the theater festival brings lots of people to this tucked away part of the city.

Along the street, the old buildings have interesting windows and doors. The small homes sit across the stream, reached by little bridges.

There are also a series of carved stone pieces along the street.  These are not ancient symbols but more recent carvings by local sculptors. Meant as parking stops, they make for fun viewing and in a pinch can serve as a low bench. 

The walk ends at a busy street near the old city walls.  Best to turn around and walk again down the Rue des Teinturiers, headed back toward the center of Avignon.

You’ll be sure to spot some things you missed earlier!

Can you spot this creature above one of the shops along Rue des Teinturiers?

A Walk Through Avignon

Much as I love living in Italy, I also enjoy traveling to other places. France is a particular favorite, and Avignon, in the Provence Region of France, is a wonderful city to visit.  I was first introduced to the Avignon many years ago when I spent a few days there before embarking on a river cruise on the Rhône and Saône Rivers, headed north through central France.  I’ve returned a couple of times since and always find it fascinating for its history, culture, architecture, beautiful squares and local cuisine.  And while there are many museums, churches, and historic sites to visit in Avignon, a good place to begin when visiting the city is simply by taking a walk.

Here are some of the highlights for first time visitors on a walk through Avignon:

The Pont Saint-Bénézet is a medieval bridge famous as the subject of the French song Sur le pont d’Avignon.  Can you hum it?  “Sur le pont d’Avignon, l’on y danse, l’on y danse”.  Only four of its arches stand today (out of the original 22), ending in the middle of the river Rhône.  It is one of the most recognizable symbols of Avignon and a UNESCO World Heritage site.  View it for free from the riverbank or pay a fee to walk (or better yet dance) on it.  After viewing the bridge, it is a short walk through the massive city walls and into the historic center.

Pont Saint-Bénézet, Avignon (photo from Pixabay)

The Palace of the Popes is a huge Gothic building in the historic center of Avignon.  Built in the mid 1300’s, it served as the residence for 9 Popes during the years when the papacy moved from Rome to Avignon.  Today it is a museum and a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

I mostly admire the palace from the outside, standing in front of it in the large Place (Square) du Palais.  The square has with wonderful views of the palace and the cathedral with the gold statue of Mary on top.  First time visitors might take a break from their walk around Avignon, buy a ticket and go Inside to find frescoes, chapels, and interesting architecture but no furnishings.  Guided tours (or self-guided with an app) help explain the rooms and the history. 

The Place de l’Horloge (Clock Tower) is Avignon’s central, and very lively, town square.  The large square is shaded by trees and ringed with cafes, restaurants, and wonderful architecture. Look for both the City Hall and the Opera House here as well as just a glimpse of the clock tower which gives the square its name. 

Place de l’Horloge

This is also where the beautiful, old, carousel is found.  If traveling with kids, this two level carousel will delight  them.  Even without children, it is fun to watch the carousel go round and round.

Church of Saint Pierre

 A small, charming square sits in front of the Church of St. Pierre, one of the oldest and smallest churches in Avignon.  The façade is remarkable for its ornate carvings, twin spires, and stunning wooden doors.  There is an impressive bell tower too.  A small art gallery and the Restaurant L’Epicerie is also found in this square. It’s a great place for lunch or dinner. In good weather the outdoor seating provides a view of the church’s facade.

From Place St. Pierre it is a short walk (past some good shopping) to Les Halles, Avignon’s fabulous food hall.  Making a detour through Les Halles is a gourmet dream.  Also a good spot for lunch with its many little eateries.

Place Pie, with Les Halles on the left

A walk though Avignon includes some of the city’s many beautiful doors and windows.

Some of the windows are old and shuttered, some have pretty window boxes. Others are the famous painted windows.  These trompe l’oeil windows are a connection to the theater festival held each summer.  So don’t forget to look up at these “false windows” to see the some fun scenes.

The last stop on an introductory walk through Avignon is my favorite spot in town – the Rue des Teinturiers (Street of the Dyers). 

Though a part of Avignon, the Rue des Teinturiers feels like a different place and a different century.  I will write more about this fascinating street in an upcoming post.

This pretty door opens to the B&B Le Limas, a small but charming place to stay in Avignon

Scenes From Two French Markets

A visit to a local market is a great way to learn about a region’s customs and culinary traditions.  When exploring a new city, I always try to include a market stop. It’s especially fun to compare markets in various countries.  While they have much in common, from fresh produce to meats and spices, it is the differences that are fascinating and provide clues as to how people live in each place.  I’ve enjoyed opportunities to discover local markets over many years of European travel -  the spices and grains in the market in Budapest, colorful fresh made pastas in Florence, amazing displays of olives and lavender in Uzes, good English cheddar at Neal’s Yard Daily in London, spicy chorizo in Barcelona. The colors, scents, and tastes of these markets color my travel memories.

No doubt this is a market in France !  Where else can you find macarons like this?   

While all of those markets have been wonderful, the markets in France have been some of my favorites.  From the small outdoor weekly markets in Uzes and Chalon sur Saône, to the big permanent markets in Avignon and Lyon, each draws me in and makes me want to inhale the scents, taste everything, shop, and cook.

So when I recently headed to France for some time in both Lyon and Avignon as bookends to a Rhône River cruise, you can bet that the markets in those two cities were on my “must see” list.   

The market in Lyon is the bigger of the two.  Its name was modified in 2006 to include a tribute to the legendary French chef Paul Bocuse so that today the market is named Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse.  It’s a temple to French Gastronomy and a monument to one of its best known chefs.  

It’s hard to describe all the wonderful foods to be found here, from the freshest fruits and vegetables to French cheeses and pâtés, crusty breads, seafood of all types, quiches, and pastries. So I will let the photos do the talking.   

Not just a place to buy provisions, Les Halles in Lyon also contains several small restaurants, bars, and cafes.  It’s the perfect setting for a quick coffee or a post shopping lunch.

One of the small eateries in Lyon's Les Halle Paul Bocuse.

The market in Avignon, also called Les Halles (which just means The Halls), is smaller but no less impressive.   The tarts, large ones with big chunks of eggplant, and tiny ones with a variety of fillings were like culinary art.  And oh the vegetable clafoutis ! 

The fougasse, a local bread, plain or filled, looked like perfect picnic food.  There was even a booth that sold only potatoes – red, yellow, white, purple. Rounds ones and fingerlings.  I was itching to make a French potato salad, if only I’d had a kitchen! And now, just writing this has made me hungry.

Do you have a favorite market, either at home or abroad? I’d love to see your market photos this week on the Two Parts Italy Face

Can anything beat a French tnrtelette for dessert? 

The Pont du Gard

The early Romans left some very impressive structures for us to admire. 

The Church of Santa Maria della Rosa in Lucca was built right up against this section of the old Roman wall.

Public baths, colosseums, pagan temples, villas, fortresses, intricate mosaics, paved roads, artwork, and catacombs exist throughout what was once the Roman Empire.  

In Lucca, where I spend most of the year, Roman ruins can be found both above ground and below. As is true in many Italian cities, if you start to dig you just might find signs of earlier Roman inhabitants.

Perhaps the most impressive artifacts of Roman civilization are the ancient aqueducts. Built to move water from sources in the hills to the towns below, these massive structures are amazing testaments to Roman engineering.  They brought fresh water into cities, filling fountains and communal baths and supplying homes, mills, and farmland.

Though built for very practical purposes, the aqueducts are also beautiful. Tall structures with tiers of arches crossed valleys to support the water channels above as they made their way downhill. And while the ones that still stand are no longer used to supply water, they remain as impressive landmarks and reminders of those long ago Roman engineers.

Some of the most spectacular Roman ruins are found well beyond Italy’s borders.  Perhaps the best example of a Roman aqueduct - the Pont du Gard - is found in France, near the town of Uzes.

Pont du Gard

Long ago graffiti carved into the limestone of the Pont du Gard

The Pont du Gard was built across the Gardon River, bringing millions of gallons of water to the city of Nimes.  Its series of arches stand 164 feet high with a length of nearly 1200 feet, making it the tallest of all the Roman aqueducts.  Constructed of massive limestone blocks, it is strong enough to support the water channel without mortar but soft enough to allow inscriptions to be carved into the stones. 

 A stop at the Pont du Gard, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a highlight of any visit to this region of France.  The visitor’s center museum provides an overview of the construction of the aqueduct and its importance to the region. After a stop in the small museum, a short walk leads to the bridge of the aqueduct. 

The short walk to the aqueduct is beautiful, especially on a beautiful spring day.

 Walking across the bridge, high above the Gardon, provides a view up and down the river.  Below there is a lot of activity. It’s fun to watch people floating by in kayaks and the swimmers and picnickers who line the river banks. 

A wild time on the Pont du Gard, 2014

The first time I visited the Pont du Gard, a rag tag group of musicians played on the bridge providing a festive atmosphere.   

With or without the band, spending time at the Pont du Gard is a treat.  

The Enchanting Town of Colmar

A year ago, in spring of 2023, I made an all too brief stop in the enchanting town of Colmar, France.  The stop was a half-day excursion as part of a Rhine river cruise. While the visit was not long enough to experience all that Colmar has to offer, it did allow me to get a glimpse into the city’s history, culture, and beauty.  And, as so often happens on a river cruise, it showed me that this is a place deserving of a longer visit in the future.

Colmar is part of the Alsace region of France, just across the border from Germany.  It has a blend of German and French style in its architecture, culture, and cuisine.  It also has a interesting history – from its medieval old town to the WWII battles that took place here.  History buffs may know that Audie Murphy earned his Medal of Honor in the Colmar battle and there is a memorial to his efforts nearby.

 Some highlights from my short visit to Colmar:

Storks have been nesting in this region for centuries as part of their migration pattern from Africa.  They build nests at high points in the city – tree tops, roofs, and church towers.  They are considered good luck (as well as fertility symbols).  Storks are everywhere in Colmar – the real ones, toy ones, and even chocolate storks!

Half-timbered houses are a prominent feature of the historic old town.  This can be explained by the fact the nearby forests provided plenty of wood for building.  The old-world homes are colorful and give the old town its unique style.

One area of the medieval old town is called “Little Venice” because of its canals.  The canals are lined with pretty houses, small bridges, and pretty trees.

Colmar is one of the prettiest towns I have visited along the Rhine.  The old town is atmospheric and charming (even on the rainy day of my visit). 

Parks host carousels, families, and storks.  Small squares throughout the city are filled with flowers and trees and ringed with cafes and shops.  And many of those shops display wonderful foods – German style pretzels and French pates and meat pies along with Alsatian wines – such a great combination of flavors!

 The Medieval architecture is wonderful but so are some of the newer (yet still old) buildings. Steepled churches, apartments blocks with curves and turrets, iron balconies, and interesting rooflines dot the city.

One of my favorite things are the ornate metal-work signs outside the shops.  They are fun and artistic representations of the businesses they promote.

The sculptor of the Statue of Liberty, Auguste Bartholdi, was from Colmar. A small replica of the statue can be seen when you enter town from the highway (but we drove by too quickly to get a photo).

The visit may have been brief, and rainy, but it was a wonderful introduction to this charming town.