A Walk Through Basel, Switzerland

Not Italy! This is the Vischer’scher Garten, a quiet park overlooking the Rhine River at the edge of Basel, Switzerland

I am busy wrapping up my summer visit to New Mexico and will head back to Lucca in the next few days.  It’s always good to catch up with my family and friends here, but at the same time I am anxious to get back to Italy. This is especially true because fall is my very favorite time of year in Lucca.  There is the fall garden festival to look forward to and all the Settembre Lucchese events and celebrations to anticipate. I am ready to go!

I anticipate a busy fall season - many visitors are expected (something I love) and I have some fall travel plans too. There will be lots to write about in the coming months. But right now I am caught up in last minute get-togethers with friends, packing, and closing up my New Mexico condo. I have to admit that blogging has taken a backseat this week, leaving me unsure about a topic for today.

Luckily, inspiration came during dinner with friends last evening. The topic of travel came up (no surprise there). They are planning a December trip which will include visits to Christmas markets in Switzerland and Italy. One of their stops will be Basel, a charming Swiss city near the borders of Germany and France, about an hour west of Zurich. I haven’t been to Basel in the winter so I am not familiar with the Christmas markets my friends’ will visit, but I did spend some time there in spring a couple of years ago and loved it.

Basel is a delightful and picturesque city. Two of its highlights involve water. First, the city is situated along the Rhine, which makes it a popular stop on Rhine River cruises, and makes for a wonderful landscape. Second is the multitude of fountains found throughout the city. Some are simple and others grand; there seems to be one around every corner in the historic part of Basel.

The architecture in Basel is stunning. The old town center has beautifully decorated Medieval buildings and historic churches. Typical Swiss style buildings can be seen throughout town - Basel is a visual delight.

I especially loved the decorative iron work signs hanging above the shops.

Basel is known for its many museums but on my short stay I only had time to visit one. The music museum was a highlight for me. It has Switzerland’s largest collection of instruments, some centuries old, from throughout Europe. There are 15th century drums, horns of all types, string instruments, pianos and more - many with unique shapes or made of unique materials.

No visit to a Swiss town would be complete without sampling some of the foods. From morning pastries to a fondue dinner, with flaming Crepes Suzette for dessert, Basel’s food did not disappoint.

So, this week, with my friends’ upcoming trip in mind, I will let these photos take us all on a walk through Basel. I hope it will build the anticipation for my friends. It certainly makes me want to return!

This old poster captures Basel well - the river, the old town, the church spires.

A Brief Introduction to Lyon, France

I first visited Lyon a decade ago.  That visit was much too brief – just a day long stop on a river cruise through southern France.  But I knew without a doubt that I would someday return for a longer visit.  

Lyon is France’s 3rd largest city (Paris and Marseille are numbers 1 and 2) and – though Parisians may argue – France’s gastronomic capital. Lyon is known for its markets, cafes, bakeries, bouchons (we might call them bistros), and restaurants. 

Below: A street market along the banks of the river Saône.

One of many hidden courtyards in Vieux Lyone

The opportunity to return to Lyon came this past May when a friend and I headed to Lyon for 3 days at the start of a longer trip through the south of France.   I had a few goals in mind for this visit –  first, an exploration of the oldest part of the city, Vieux Lyon, with its tiny alleys, secret passageways, hidden courtyards, Renaissance era architecture and fascinating history. 

Next, getting to know the Presqu’ile, the area tucked between the Rhône and Saône rivers.  It’s an elegant neighborhood full of classic Parisian-style buildings, impressive fountains, large public squares, theaters, museums, and several of Lyon’s famous building murals.  It’s also the neighborhood for great shopping, classy hotels, and wonderful food.   

This stunning fountain anchors the Place des Jacobins in the Presqu’ile district of Lyon.

Also on my must-do list was a visit to what has to be one of the world’s finest markets, Les Halles di Lyon Paul Bocuse.  Exploring local markets is something I love to do when traveling. I must have thousands of market photos from cities in Europe and the US.   Each country’s markets have a unique character. They are a great way to gain insight into the local culture and also great places to sit and people watch over a coffee, to pick up supplies for a picnic lunch, or to grab a simple yet tasty meal. Based on Lyon’s reputation as a mecca for good food, I arrived anticipating fresh seafood (oh the moules!), classic quenelles (a type of fish dumpling and a regional specialty), great bread, croissants (of course), and good wine.  Lyon did not disappoint and a visit to Les Halles market was a highlight.!

The Basilica of Notre-Dame as seen from along the Saône River, Lyon

Fourvière Hill is another can’t miss spot in Lyon. It sits high above the city’s historic old town (Vieux Lyon) and is home to the Basilica of Notre-Dame. The mosaic and sculpture filled interior of the church is breathtaking and the views over the city are fantastic from this vantage point.

Lyon is a joy to visit and was a great way to begin a longer trip in France. More details on Lyon in upcoming blog posts.  Stay tuned!

The Enchanting Town of Colmar

A year ago, in spring of 2023, I made an all too brief stop in the enchanting town of Colmar, France.  The stop was a half-day excursion as part of a Rhine river cruise. While the visit was not long enough to experience all that Colmar has to offer, it did allow me to get a glimpse into the city’s history, culture, and beauty.  And, as so often happens on a river cruise, it showed me that this is a place deserving of a longer visit in the future.

Colmar is part of the Alsace region of France, just across the border from Germany.  It has a blend of German and French style in its architecture, culture, and cuisine.  It also has a interesting history – from its medieval old town to the WWII battles that took place here.  History buffs may know that Audie Murphy earned his Medal of Honor in the Colmar battle and there is a memorial to his efforts nearby.

 Some highlights from my short visit to Colmar:

Storks have been nesting in this region for centuries as part of their migration pattern from Africa.  They build nests at high points in the city – tree tops, roofs, and church towers.  They are considered good luck (as well as fertility symbols).  Storks are everywhere in Colmar – the real ones, toy ones, and even chocolate storks!

Half-timbered houses are a prominent feature of the historic old town.  This can be explained by the fact the nearby forests provided plenty of wood for building.  The old-world homes are colorful and give the old town its unique style.

One area of the medieval old town is called “Little Venice” because of its canals.  The canals are lined with pretty houses, small bridges, and pretty trees.

Colmar is one of the prettiest towns I have visited along the Rhine.  The old town is atmospheric and charming (even on the rainy day of my visit). 

Parks host carousels, families, and storks.  Small squares throughout the city are filled with flowers and trees and ringed with cafes and shops.  And many of those shops display wonderful foods – German style pretzels and French pates and meat pies along with Alsatian wines – such a great combination of flavors!

 The Medieval architecture is wonderful but so are some of the newer (yet still old) buildings. Steepled churches, apartments blocks with curves and turrets, iron balconies, and interesting rooflines dot the city.

One of my favorite things are the ornate metal-work signs outside the shops.  They are fun and artistic representations of the businesses they promote.

The sculptor of the Statue of Liberty, Auguste Bartholdi, was from Colmar. A small replica of the statue can be seen when you enter town from the highway (but we drove by too quickly to get a photo).

The visit may have been brief, and rainy, but it was a wonderful introduction to this charming town.

Castles and Vineyards Along the Middle Rhine Valley

One of the highlights of a Viking Rhine River cruise is sailing the stretch of the Rhine between the cities of Koblenz and Rüdesheim. The day I sailed this stretch of the river (in early Spring) it was gray, windy, and chilly. But that didn’t stop me from standing along the rail on the open sun deck at the top of the ship.  That’s where the best views were! 

Burg Thurnberg is also known as Berg Maus - the “mouse” castle is just a bit away from the “cat” castle. The on-board narration explained the long-ago rivalry between the two owners.

 For about 4 hours the Viking Baldur moved slowly past breathtaking scenery.  There were steep vineyards, small medieval villages, steepled churches, and – best of all – ancient castles.   Some were ruins but others were remarkably well preserved.

The Lorelei Rock - we got close, but not too close when navigating this tricky bend in the Rhine

We also sailed by the Lorelei Rock which sits at the narrowest and deepest section of the Rhine. Legend has it that many sailors were lost here. Enchanted by the song of the Lorelei maiden they lost their way and crashed into the rock.

I didn’t hear her song that afternoon and luckily neither did our captain as we passed safely by the Lorelei without crashing into it. 

Our afternoon of sailing ended in the charming town of Rüdesheim where we had just enough time for a stroll through the streets of the Drosselgasse before returning to our ship for dinner. 

Marketplatz, Rüdesheim

 The Drosseslgasse is an area of narrow streets which wind through the oldest part of Rüdesheim.  The alleys are lined with half-timber houses, shops, wines cellars, pubs, and restaurants.  On the evening we visited there was jazz music spilling out of one pub, intriguing wines on display in a shop, and some really enticing aromas coming from the restaurants.   

Rüdesheim Caffe. (thanks to M. Bird for this photo)

 Rüdesheim is famous for both its wine and for Rüdesheim Caffe.  The coffee, laced with a local brandy and served in a fancy cup, is just the thing to warm up a gray afternoon. To make the coffee, brandy and sugar cubes are flamed before adding the coffee. Then it is topped off with whipped cream and chocolate shavings.  Delicious! We had an on-board demonstration of the preparation before arriving in Rüdesheim, with a tasting of course.  The specialty coffee cups - all curves and pretty patterns - were on sale in many of the local shops.  

 Our ship left Rüdesheim close to midnight, headed for a short stop in Speyer the next day. 

Speyer is where the Protestant Reformation began. It was here, in 1517, that Martin Luther presented his theses against the Roman Catholic Church.   The historic center of the city was full of beautiful architecture, monuments, the remains of a 13th century gate, and a remarkable Romanesque Cathedral which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

As in every stop, a local guide was provided by Viking. She gave us a good dose of history as well as interesting information about modern day Speyer. And while it just wasn’t possible to fully explore the city, we did manage to get a good sense of it between the guided walk and some free time for exploration. It’s a charming and beautiful small city.

Next stop on my cruise itinerary: Strasbourg, France. More on that in a future post.

Koblenz: Where the Rhine and Moselle Rivers Come Together

This map from the Viking River Cruise site shows our route. You’ll find Koblenz where the Rhine meets the Moselle

Perhaps the most charming city that I visited on my recent Viking Rhine River Cruise was the small town of Koblenz. Koblenz sits at a strategic location – the meeting point of the Rhine and Moselle rivers.  In fact, the name Koblenz is derived from the Latin word for confluence.  The confluence of these two rivers was historically important both for military and commerce purposes.  Ruled at different times by France and Germany, the city has a meld of influences from both cultures. 

Koblenz also sits at the north end of the Middle Rhine, a stretch which includes stunning scenery. The landscape along the river showcases terraced lands planted with vines and lots of castles – making it both a UNESCO Heritage Site and an important stop on the many river cruises that sail up and down the Rhine. 

 Our Viking Ship, the Baldur, docked in Braubach (pictured above), a short bus ride away from Koblenz.  Some passengers headed to nearby Marksburg Castle, sitting high on a bluff above the river.  Others of us, my travel companion and me included, headed to Koblenz for a morning of exploring the city. Once again Viking provided a delightful local guide who knew the city well and was eager to share its history, culture, folklore, and special places. 

 Our walking tour began along the Moselle bank towards the Deutsches Eck, The German Corner.   This is the very spot where the two rivers meet. It is marked by a large open promenade, flags of all the German states, and a monument with a statue of Emperor Wilhelm I.  The statue was destroyed during the war and for many years only the base of the statue remained.  In the 1990’s it was rebuilt and today the park-like space also includes a memorial containing three remnants of the Berlin Wall. 

 From the German Corner, the city walk continued along the Rhine bank. Across the river the Ehrenbreitstein Fortess stands high on a ridge, accessible by a cable car that runs across the river.   The walk continued towards the Basilica of St. Castor (Basilika St. Kastor in German), the oldest church in Koblenz. 

Basilica of St. Castor (Basilika St. Kastor)

 The Basilica is a beautiful church, surrounded by trees and built above Roman ruins.  The facade is fairly simple, with tall towers at the corners.  The interior has an uncluttered elegance with ribbed and delicately painted ceilings, a beautiful altar, small stained glass windows, and some lovely artwork.  It conveys a sense of quiet peacefulness.

 Walking through town we encountered pretty houses, tree lined streets, churches, shops, and several delightful squares (platz in German). The squares had interesting fountains, historical markers, shops, and cafes.  

Small brass markers were set into the streets, marking former homes and businesses of Jewish residents arrested and later murdered by the Nazis. These were a sobering and moving reminder of the past. 

 A more lighthearted symbol of the past was the fountain in Willi-Hörtz-Platz. This is the fountain dedicated to Schlängel, the naughty little boy who sometimes spits at people passing by.  His image can also be found on manhole covers in town.  Who doesn’t love a charming but naughty little boy?

After the walking tour we had enough free time to wander the historic center of town, do some window shopping, and enjoy the interesting architecture along the streets of Koblenz. 

 It was cold and windy on the day we visited, so my traveling companion and I ended our day in Koblenz with a return to Jesuit Square. There, the Caffé Galestro provided lovely views of the square, a warm place to sit, and a great cappuccino. 

Koblenz was one of the most enchanting of our stops along the Rhine, a wonderful combination of fascinating geography, history, culture, and architecture.   Definitely a place worth visiting.