Castles and Vineyards Along the Middle Rhine Valley

One of the highlights of a Viking Rhine River cruise is sailing the stretch of the Rhine between the cities of Koblenz and Rüdesheim. The day I sailed this stretch of the river (in early Spring) it was gray, windy, and chilly. But that didn’t stop me from standing along the rail on the open sun deck at the top of the ship.  That’s where the best views were! 

Burg Thurnberg is also known as Berg Maus - the “mouse” castle is just a bit away from the “cat” castle. The on-board narration explained the long-ago rivalry between the two owners.

 For about 4 hours the Viking Baldur moved slowly past breathtaking scenery.  There were steep vineyards, small medieval villages, steepled churches, and – best of all – ancient castles.   Some were ruins but others were remarkably well preserved.

The Lorelei Rock - we got close, but not too close when navigating this tricky bend in the Rhine

We also sailed by the Lorelei Rock which sits at the narrowest and deepest section of the Rhine. Legend has it that many sailors were lost here. Enchanted by the song of the Lorelei maiden they lost their way and crashed into the rock.

I didn’t hear her song that afternoon and luckily neither did our captain as we passed safely by the Lorelei without crashing into it. 

Our afternoon of sailing ended in the charming town of Rüdesheim where we had just enough time for a stroll through the streets of the Drosselgasse before returning to our ship for dinner. 

Marketplatz, Rüdesheim

 The Drosseslgasse is an area of narrow streets which wind through the oldest part of Rüdesheim.  The alleys are lined with half-timber houses, shops, wines cellars, pubs, and restaurants.  On the evening we visited there was jazz music spilling out of one pub, intriguing wines on display in a shop, and some really enticing aromas coming from the restaurants.   

Rüdesheim Caffe. (thanks to M. Bird for this photo)

 Rüdesheim is famous for both its wine and for Rüdesheim Caffe.  The coffee, laced with a local brandy and served in a fancy cup, is just the thing to warm up a gray afternoon. To make the coffee, brandy and sugar cubes are flamed before adding the coffee. Then it is topped off with whipped cream and chocolate shavings.  Delicious! We had an on-board demonstration of the preparation before arriving in Rüdesheim, with a tasting of course.  The specialty coffee cups - all curves and pretty patterns - were on sale in many of the local shops.  

 Our ship left Rüdesheim close to midnight, headed for a short stop in Speyer the next day. 

Speyer is where the Protestant Reformation began. It was here, in 1517, that Martin Luther presented his theses against the Roman Catholic Church.   The historic center of the city was full of beautiful architecture, monuments, the remains of a 13th century gate, and a remarkable Romanesque Cathedral which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

As in every stop, a local guide was provided by Viking. She gave us a good dose of history as well as interesting information about modern day Speyer. And while it just wasn’t possible to fully explore the city, we did manage to get a good sense of it between the guided walk and some free time for exploration. It’s a charming and beautiful small city.

Next stop on my cruise itinerary: Strasbourg, France. More on that in a future post.

A Rhine River Cruise with Viking

There are castles to be seen when cruising the Middle Rhine Valley.

Say the word “cruise” and you are sure to get a reaction.  Some people love cruises and plan most of their vacations around an ocean or a river voyage.  Others swear they aren’t “cruise people” and would never book one. I fall somewhere in between.  I enjoy independent travel that immerses me in the culture of a place and allows me to do my own thing at my own pace.  Most of my trips will be independent ones. Planes, trains, and cars usually get me where I want to go.

Still, it can be fun to explore some areas on a tour, especially places where one doesn’t speak the language or those that don’t draw us in for a longer stay. And spending a few days on the water can be a relaxing way to vacation.

I am not a fan of those huge ocean-going ships, both for environmental reasons and because the idea of a floating city with thousands of people doesn’t appeal to me. I don’t need casinos, pools, or glitzy shows when I travel either. As for evening gowns and formal nights - forget about it! Smaller ships offering well curated but casual experiences and meaningful cultural insights are more my style.  I have found that river cruises provide just the right balance. And I have really enjoyed sailing with Viking.

Quaint villages, green landscapes, and calm waters along the Rhine.

Cocktails in the Viking Baldur lounge - a great way to catch up with friends old and new.

The Viking longships, which cruise the European rivers, are relatively small. They carry just under 200 passengers. This allows the ships to dock close to city centers and right alongside small villages. Getting on and off the boats is a snap and allows for either joining a guided walk or for independent exploration in the towns along the river.

A river cruise is also a great way to travel with a group of friends. The choices of activities allow each group member to select different excursions and the layout of the Viking longships provides plenty of space to cozy up with a book or a drink or a deck chair. But then there is plenty of opportunity to spend relaxed time together on board - at meals, in the lounge, over a card game, or socializing in one of the outdoor spaces.   

My recent cruise with Viking, along the Rhine River, gave me the chance to spend a week with friends from New Mexico. We met up in Amsterdam and spent time catching up and sharing a week of fun explorations as we sailed from Amsterdam to Basel along the Rhine river.

Sunset along the Rhine as seen from the Viking Baldur during an evening of sailing.

One of the many castles in the Middle Rhine Valley

 Another advantage – no packing and unpacking!  My roommate and I settled into our cabin on day 1 and visited 4 countries in 8 days without ever having to pack and unpack again.  And though that may sound like a lot of places in a short time frame, the time spent sailing from one location to the next was either during meals on board, in the evenings during social hours in the lounge, throughout the night, or on days when the passing scenery was so spectacular that watching from a relatively slow-moving boat was wonderful. 

Each day is different on a river cruise. There are new cities to explore, led by knowledgeable local guides.  Stops includes an introductory walking tour followed by free time to explore on your own.  There are slower paced groups for those who might want a more relaxed pace with less standing and more opportunities to sit awhile. All of the general walks are included in the cost of a Viking cruise along with some optional, reasonable priced, excursions as well.

Rudesheimer coffee served in traditional cups was an afternoon treat after an on-board demonstration of how to make it.

On-board activities link to the places visited and include history and cultural information about the various regions, demonstrations of local crafts or cooking, and port talks which highlight the interesting things to see in each town. 

On the Rhine cruise we made Rudesheimer coffee on the day we stopped near that city (yum).

The chefs also gave a cooking demonstration, showing us how to make an authentic French Flammkuchen, a type of flat bread with toppings (but don’t call it pizza!) as part of our stop in Strasbourg.  The chefs were assisted by a volunteer passenger and everyone received a copy of the recipe to take home. The demonstrations was followed by a tasting - delicious!

Pretzels and beer kicked off a night of German themed dishes.

The meals also reflect the food of the regions we visited.  German night was a highlight on this voyage.  No worries though – if the local cuisine doesn’t appeal there are always some standard options available including salmon, steak or chicken. There are always vegetarian choices as well. Wine and beer are included at both lunch and dinner.

I enjoyed tasting the local delicacies – even raw herring at breakfast.  That was part of the fun as were the daily descriptions of dinners given by the head chef.  Good food, from sumptuous breakfasts complete with a made-to-order omelet bar, to tasty lunches and beautifully presented dinners, added to the enjoyment. Getting to know other passengers at meals was an added bonus. Our cruise companions were an interesting and well-traveled group.

Oh - and did I mention deserts? Servings were modest enough to encourage even the most calorie conscious to indulge!

 The Viking longships offer a range of cabins – from small cabins at the water line, to larger cabins with balconies, and a few large suites.   Of course, there is no reason to spend a lot of time in one’s cabin.  On board is a library, a bar / lounge, an outdoor terrace at the front of the boat, and an open upper deck. The upper deck has lounge chairs, a walking track, a small putting green, an herb garden and fantastic views.

A view from my stateroom balcony, near Cologne.

A few general things to keep in mind when planning a river cruise. First, pack light.  There are no formal nights.  Days are quite casual and there is no pressure to wear a different outfit every day - mix and match is the way to go.  A few scarves work wonders to dress up or modify an outfit.  Men don’t need ties or jackets.  Dinner dress is “nice, casual”.   Slacks and shirts or sweaters work for cooler season cruises along with rain gear.  Capris, slacks, sundresses, lightweight shirts in summer. Walking shorts are ok for excursions but discouraged in the dining room.  As for shoes – comfortable walking shoes are a must, leave those heels at home!

 If going all carry-on on an overseas flight works for you then that’s ideal.  If not, then a small carry-on with a change of clothes and anything essential is a must.  It never fails that on any cruise there are passengers whose bags are delayed, sometimes by several days.  This is an airline issue, not a cruise company issue.  But without at least one change of clothes, essential medications, and toiletries, a trip can be ruined. Placing an Air Tag device in checked bags is helpful for locating lost luggage.

Amsterdam, where the Rhine River Cruise began. This part of town was within walking distance of the ship dock.

It is best to arrive in the departure city at least one day, preferable two, ahead of a cruise. Between flight delays, European strikes, and cancelled flights, arriving a couple of days early is good insurance that you won’t miss a day or two of a cruise.  The ship does not wait for late arriving passengers! Plus, those departure cities are fun to explore. The two days we spent in Amsterdam before my recent cruise was a great way to begin the trip. 

While the ship itself is a wonderful part of the river cruise experience, the real stars of the voyage are the cities along the way.  Over the coming weeks I will post more about each of the cities we visited. Lots of photos to come !

Note:  I am not affiliated with Viking Cruises in any way and was simply a paying passenger on this cruise.