Castles and Vineyards Along the Middle Rhine Valley

One of the highlights of a Viking Rhine River cruise is sailing the stretch of the Rhine between the cities of Koblenz and Rüdesheim. The day I sailed this stretch of the river (in early Spring) it was gray, windy, and chilly. But that didn’t stop me from standing along the rail on the open sun deck at the top of the ship.  That’s where the best views were! 

Burg Thurnberg is also known as Berg Maus - the “mouse” castle is just a bit away from the “cat” castle. The on-board narration explained the long-ago rivalry between the two owners.

 For about 4 hours the Viking Baldur moved slowly past breathtaking scenery.  There were steep vineyards, small medieval villages, steepled churches, and – best of all – ancient castles.   Some were ruins but others were remarkably well preserved.

The Lorelei Rock - we got close, but not too close when navigating this tricky bend in the Rhine

We also sailed by the Lorelei Rock which sits at the narrowest and deepest section of the Rhine. Legend has it that many sailors were lost here. Enchanted by the song of the Lorelei maiden they lost their way and crashed into the rock.

I didn’t hear her song that afternoon and luckily neither did our captain as we passed safely by the Lorelei without crashing into it. 

Our afternoon of sailing ended in the charming town of Rüdesheim where we had just enough time for a stroll through the streets of the Drosselgasse before returning to our ship for dinner. 

Marketplatz, Rüdesheim

 The Drosseslgasse is an area of narrow streets which wind through the oldest part of Rüdesheim.  The alleys are lined with half-timber houses, shops, wines cellars, pubs, and restaurants.  On the evening we visited there was jazz music spilling out of one pub, intriguing wines on display in a shop, and some really enticing aromas coming from the restaurants.   

Rüdesheim Caffe. (thanks to M. Bird for this photo)

 Rüdesheim is famous for both its wine and for Rüdesheim Caffe.  The coffee, laced with a local brandy and served in a fancy cup, is just the thing to warm up a gray afternoon. To make the coffee, brandy and sugar cubes are flamed before adding the coffee. Then it is topped off with whipped cream and chocolate shavings.  Delicious! We had an on-board demonstration of the preparation before arriving in Rüdesheim, with a tasting of course.  The specialty coffee cups - all curves and pretty patterns - were on sale in many of the local shops.  

 Our ship left Rüdesheim close to midnight, headed for a short stop in Speyer the next day. 

Speyer is where the Protestant Reformation began. It was here, in 1517, that Martin Luther presented his theses against the Roman Catholic Church.   The historic center of the city was full of beautiful architecture, monuments, the remains of a 13th century gate, and a remarkable Romanesque Cathedral which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

As in every stop, a local guide was provided by Viking. She gave us a good dose of history as well as interesting information about modern day Speyer. And while it just wasn’t possible to fully explore the city, we did manage to get a good sense of it between the guided walk and some free time for exploration. It’s a charming and beautiful small city.

Next stop on my cruise itinerary: Strasbourg, France. More on that in a future post.

Koblenz: Where the Rhine and Moselle Rivers Come Together

This map from the Viking River Cruise site shows our route. You’ll find Koblenz where the Rhine meets the Moselle

Perhaps the most charming city that I visited on my recent Viking Rhine River Cruise was the small town of Koblenz. Koblenz sits at a strategic location – the meeting point of the Rhine and Moselle rivers.  In fact, the name Koblenz is derived from the Latin word for confluence.  The confluence of these two rivers was historically important both for military and commerce purposes.  Ruled at different times by France and Germany, the city has a meld of influences from both cultures. 

Koblenz also sits at the north end of the Middle Rhine, a stretch which includes stunning scenery. The landscape along the river showcases terraced lands planted with vines and lots of castles – making it both a UNESCO Heritage Site and an important stop on the many river cruises that sail up and down the Rhine. 

 Our Viking Ship, the Baldur, docked in Braubach (pictured above), a short bus ride away from Koblenz.  Some passengers headed to nearby Marksburg Castle, sitting high on a bluff above the river.  Others of us, my travel companion and me included, headed to Koblenz for a morning of exploring the city. Once again Viking provided a delightful local guide who knew the city well and was eager to share its history, culture, folklore, and special places. 

 Our walking tour began along the Moselle bank towards the Deutsches Eck, The German Corner.   This is the very spot where the two rivers meet. It is marked by a large open promenade, flags of all the German states, and a monument with a statue of Emperor Wilhelm I.  The statue was destroyed during the war and for many years only the base of the statue remained.  In the 1990’s it was rebuilt and today the park-like space also includes a memorial containing three remnants of the Berlin Wall. 

 From the German Corner, the city walk continued along the Rhine bank. Across the river the Ehrenbreitstein Fortess stands high on a ridge, accessible by a cable car that runs across the river.   The walk continued towards the Basilica of St. Castor (Basilika St. Kastor in German), the oldest church in Koblenz. 

Basilica of St. Castor (Basilika St. Kastor)

 The Basilica is a beautiful church, surrounded by trees and built above Roman ruins.  The facade is fairly simple, with tall towers at the corners.  The interior has an uncluttered elegance with ribbed and delicately painted ceilings, a beautiful altar, small stained glass windows, and some lovely artwork.  It conveys a sense of quiet peacefulness.

 Walking through town we encountered pretty houses, tree lined streets, churches, shops, and several delightful squares (platz in German). The squares had interesting fountains, historical markers, shops, and cafes.  

Small brass markers were set into the streets, marking former homes and businesses of Jewish residents arrested and later murdered by the Nazis. These were a sobering and moving reminder of the past. 

 A more lighthearted symbol of the past was the fountain in Willi-Hörtz-Platz. This is the fountain dedicated to Schlängel, the naughty little boy who sometimes spits at people passing by.  His image can also be found on manhole covers in town.  Who doesn’t love a charming but naughty little boy?

After the walking tour we had enough free time to wander the historic center of town, do some window shopping, and enjoy the interesting architecture along the streets of Koblenz. 

 It was cold and windy on the day we visited, so my traveling companion and I ended our day in Koblenz with a return to Jesuit Square. There, the Caffé Galestro provided lovely views of the square, a warm place to sit, and a great cappuccino. 

Koblenz was one of the most enchanting of our stops along the Rhine, a wonderful combination of fascinating geography, history, culture, and architecture.   Definitely a place worth visiting. 

One Day in Cologne, Germany

Cologne also has beautiful parks, green spaces, and walking paths.

Cologne (Köln in German) is a city of contrasts.  The city has 2000-year-old Roman roots, some ruins of which are still visible underneath the modern city.  Today Cologne blends the few Medieval structures that survived heavy bombing during WW II with reconstructed areas designed to look as they did before the war. 

Add to these the modern architecture of the post-war city and you get a snapshot of modern-day Cologne.

 Most of Cologne’s sights – including the Cathedral, the Historic Old Town, and the 12 Romanesque churches – lie on the west (left) bank of the Rhine River and within easy walking distance of the Viking ship dock just across the Hohenzollernbrücke (don’t ask me to pronounce it!) bridge on the opposite riverbank.   

Cologne’s Left Bank - the Rhine, the Hohenzollernbrücke bridge, the Cathedral and the train station are all found here at the edge of the Old Town.

The second stop on my Viking Rhine River Cruise began with a morning walking tour led by an excellent local tour guide.  The walk took us through the Old Town, past colorful tall houses, through small squares, and in front of the town hall with its tall clock tower.  We even had a chance to sample the two famous Eau de Colognes (perfumes) produced in town. The walk ended in front of the Cathedral with plenty of free time to explore it on our own.   

Cologne’s Old Town with its cobblestone streets, small squares lined with colorful buildings, shops, and cafes.

 After lunch, the rest of the afternoon and evening was free to explore on our own.  I appreciated that the cruise included a full day in Cologne as there was so much to see. Even with a full day, we barely scratched the surface of this complex city and I have lots of ideas of things to see - including museums, several historic churches, museums, and even a chocolate museum - on a return visit.

Cologne’s Cathedral of St. Peter

 Some highlights of the day we spent in Cologne:

The Cathedral, officially the Cathedral of St. Peter.   This is the most visited landmark in Cologne and for good reason.  Built mostly in the 14th century (but not completed until much later), It is one of the tallest churches in the world.  Its huge spires dominate the skyline of Cologne.  Those spires also likely saved the church from destruction during the war as the Allied pilots used them as they navigated into Germany on bombing raids.  The style is Gothic with flying buttresses and a forest of small spires on the exterior.  The inside is a wonder. Its towering height is full of tall columns, ribbed ceilings, beautiful stained glass, paintings and statues, detailed mosaic floors, and iron work. 

The most significant artifact in the Cathedral is the Shrine of the Three Kings (The Magi).  The shrine, located behind the main altar, holds a large gold covered sarcophagus said to hold the bones of the Three Wise Men. 

Historic photo of the destruction of Great St. Martin Church during WW II.

 The Great St. Martin Church.   With a one-day visit there wasn’t time to visit all 12 of the Historic Romanesque Churches, most of which were destroyed during the war and later rebuilt.  My friend and I chose to visit St. Martin’s, a beautiful part of the skyline of Cologne.   Smaller than the nearby cathedral, it has a central tall spire and smaller ones at each of its four corners.  There are 3 apses, giving the lower part of the church a clover-leaf shape.  Nearly destroyed during the war, it only reopened in the 1980’s.  The interior is simple with little decoration save for remnants of paintings on the columns and some mosaic floor tile. The starkness and quiet, along with the distant echoes of war, were quite moving.  Its location in the old part of the city, surrounded by colorful houses and small streets, gives it a very human dimension.

 Love locks on the Hohenzollernbrücke.   This long bridge serves as both a pedestrian bridge and a railway bridge.  It connects the broad pathway on the right bank to the old town on the left.  The bridge is full of love locks placed there by hopeful couples.  The locks are of various shapes, sizes, and colors.  Some look very old and some are shiny and new.  There are so many that the city is worried about the weight they are adding to the bridge! 

The nicest part about strolling across the bridge are the wonderful views of the city skyline, including the Cathedral and the nearby church of Great St. Martin.

Eau de Cologne.   Perhaps the most famous product of the city of Cologne is a type of perfume which bears the city’s name.  The history of Eau de Cologne has an interesting Italian twist.  Giovanni Farina, born in Italy but a resident of Cologne in the early 1700’s, developed a perfume which, in his words, had the scent “of a spring morning in Italy, mountain narcissus, and orange blossom just after a rain”.  He named it after his adopted city of Cologne and founded both a much loved scent and a family dynasty.  Today the 5th generation of Farinas produces the citrus scented Eau de Cologne that bears their name. Of course, he had some competition - a few years later a local German man produced a similar perfume and even tried to market it under the Farina name.  Legal battles ensued, were won by the Farina family, and the name of the other perfume was changed.  Today that second perfume, re-named 4711, is equally famous. 

Our guide brought along samples of both for us to test. Which was my favorite? It was the lighter, fresher scented Farina Eau de Cologne.

 Local Beer.   I am not much of a beer drinker, but I still found the beer culture in Cologne interesting, especially in the way that it is integral to the local identify.  The beer produced here is called Kölsch and it is served in the many brewpubs in town.  Production is regulated and only beers produced in and around the city, according to set standards, can be called Kölsch. 

The pubs have an old-world atmosphere. The waiters wear traditional costumes as they carry round trays of beer in narrow glasses called stanges.  The servings are small, around 6 ounces, but are automatically refilled when empty!  To stop the refills, the coaster is placed on top of the glass. 

We made a quick stop at a traditional brewpub - Peters Brauhaus (pictured above) - to have a look around. It was much too early in the morning for a beer, but fun to see the inside of this historic brewpub.

It is impossible to miss the importance of beer culture in Cologne. Look closely and you’ll find small gnome-like carvings of Köbes (waiters who serve the Kölsch) outside some of the pubs. Viking offered an optional excursion for a dinner in a local brewpub for those passengers who wanted to experience the culture first hand.

The Viking ship Baldur left Cologne at 10pm, headed for the dock at Braubach and visits to Koblenz and the Marksburg Castle. More on those stops in a future post.