Scenes From Two French Markets

A visit to a local market is a great way to learn about a region’s customs and culinary traditions.  When exploring a new city, I always try to include a market stop. It’s especially fun to compare markets in various countries.  While they have much in common, from fresh produce to meats and spices, it is the differences that are fascinating and provide clues as to how people live in each place.  I’ve enjoyed opportunities to discover local markets over many years of European travel -  the spices and grains in the market in Budapest, colorful fresh made pastas in Florence, amazing displays of olives and lavender in Uzes, good English cheddar at Neal’s Yard Daily in London, spicy chorizo in Barcelona. The colors, scents, and tastes of these markets color my travel memories.

No doubt this is a market in France !  Where else can you find macarons like this?   

While all of those markets have been wonderful, the markets in France have been some of my favorites.  From the small outdoor weekly markets in Uzes and Chalon sur Saône, to the big permanent markets in Avignon and Lyon, each draws me in and makes me want to inhale the scents, taste everything, shop, and cook.

So when I recently headed to France for some time in both Lyon and Avignon as bookends to a Rhône River cruise, you can bet that the markets in those two cities were on my “must see” list.   

The market in Lyon is the bigger of the two.  Its name was modified in 2006 to include a tribute to the legendary French chef Paul Bocuse so that today the market is named Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse.  It’s a temple to French Gastronomy and a monument to one of its best known chefs.  

It’s hard to describe all the wonderful foods to be found here, from the freshest fruits and vegetables to French cheeses and pâtés, crusty breads, seafood of all types, quiches, and pastries. So I will let the photos do the talking.   

Not just a place to buy provisions, Les Halles in Lyon also contains several small restaurants, bars, and cafes.  It’s the perfect setting for a quick coffee or a post shopping lunch.

One of the small eateries in Lyon's Les Halle Paul Bocuse.

The market in Avignon, also called Les Halles (which just means The Halls), is smaller but no less impressive.   The tarts, large ones with big chunks of eggplant, and tiny ones with a variety of fillings were like culinary art.  And oh the vegetable clafoutis ! 

The fougasse, a local bread, plain or filled, looked like perfect picnic food.  There was even a booth that sold only potatoes – red, yellow, white, purple. Rounds ones and fingerlings.  I was itching to make a French potato salad, if only I’d had a kitchen! And now, just writing this has made me hungry.

Do you have a favorite market, either at home or abroad? I’d love to see your market photos this week on the Two Parts Italy Face

Can anything beat a French tnrtelette for dessert? 

Ferragosto 2024

Here we are in the middle of August, just in time for the Italian celebration of Ferragosto on the 15th.

A national holiday in Italy, the Italians often stretch it beyond a single day as families head to the beach, the lake, or the mountains for some extended summer R&R time.

Ferragosto is one holiday I wish would be adopted in the US. After all, who doesn’t need a middle of summer break from heat, storms, and work?

While I will miss the holiday in Lucca as I am in New Mexico visiting family, I will embrace it here as my very own mid-August break.

In that spirit, I will take a break from writing this week and just post some photos of one of my favorite photographic subjects - doors.

Doors are fascinating, especially the really old ones. Who passed through them? What secrets do they hide? What history did they witness?

All of these beautiful old doors were photographed in the Vieux Lyon area of Lyon, France. Some of the doors really do hide secrets as several seemingly ordinary ones open onto secret passage ways with hidden courtyards, fountains, and apartments.

Happy Ferragosto week. PS: It’s a good week to start planning winter and spring travel ! Lyon would make a great destination !

A Brief Introduction to Lyon, France

I first visited Lyon a decade ago.  That visit was much too brief – just a day long stop on a river cruise through southern France.  But I knew without a doubt that I would someday return for a longer visit.  

Lyon is France’s 3rd largest city (Paris and Marseille are numbers 1 and 2) and – though Parisians may argue – France’s gastronomic capital. Lyon is known for its markets, cafes, bakeries, bouchons (we might call them bistros), and restaurants. 

Below: A street market along the banks of the river Saône.

One of many hidden courtyards in Vieux Lyone

The opportunity to return to Lyon came this past May when a friend and I headed to Lyon for 3 days at the start of a longer trip through the south of France.   I had a few goals in mind for this visit –  first, an exploration of the oldest part of the city, Vieux Lyon, with its tiny alleys, secret passageways, hidden courtyards, Renaissance era architecture and fascinating history. 

Next, getting to know the Presqu’ile, the area tucked between the Rhône and Saône rivers.  It’s an elegant neighborhood full of classic Parisian-style buildings, impressive fountains, large public squares, theaters, museums, and several of Lyon’s famous building murals.  It’s also the neighborhood for great shopping, classy hotels, and wonderful food.   

This stunning fountain anchors the Place des Jacobins in the Presqu’ile district of Lyon.

Also on my must-do list was a visit to what has to be one of the world’s finest markets, Les Halles di Lyon Paul Bocuse.  Exploring local markets is something I love to do when traveling. I must have thousands of market photos from cities in Europe and the US.   Each country’s markets have a unique character. They are a great way to gain insight into the local culture and also great places to sit and people watch over a coffee, to pick up supplies for a picnic lunch, or to grab a simple yet tasty meal. Based on Lyon’s reputation as a mecca for good food, I arrived anticipating fresh seafood (oh the moules!), classic quenelles (a type of fish dumpling and a regional specialty), great bread, croissants (of course), and good wine.  Lyon did not disappoint and a visit to Les Halles market was a highlight.!

The Basilica of Notre-Dame as seen from along the Saône River, Lyon

Fourvière Hill is another can’t miss spot in Lyon. It sits high above the city’s historic old town (Vieux Lyon) and is home to the Basilica of Notre-Dame. The mosaic and sculpture filled interior of the church is breathtaking and the views over the city are fantastic from this vantage point.

Lyon is a joy to visit and was a great way to begin a longer trip in France. More details on Lyon in upcoming blog posts.  Stay tuned!