A Walk Through Avignon

Much as I love living in Italy, I also enjoy traveling to other places. France is a particular favorite, and Avignon, in the Provence Region of France, is a wonderful city to visit.  I was first introduced to the Avignon many years ago when I spent a few days there before embarking on a river cruise on the Rhône and Saône Rivers, headed north through central France.  I’ve returned a couple of times since and always find it fascinating for its history, culture, architecture, beautiful squares and local cuisine.  And while there are many museums, churches, and historic sites to visit in Avignon, a good place to begin when visiting the city is simply by taking a walk.

Here are some of the highlights for first time visitors on a walk through Avignon:

The Pont Saint-Bénézet is a medieval bridge famous as the subject of the French song Sur le pont d’Avignon.  Can you hum it?  “Sur le pont d’Avignon, l’on y danse, l’on y danse”.  Only four of its arches stand today (out of the original 22), ending in the middle of the river Rhône.  It is one of the most recognizable symbols of Avignon and a UNESCO World Heritage site.  View it for free from the riverbank or pay a fee to walk (or better yet dance) on it.  After viewing the bridge, it is a short walk through the massive city walls and into the historic center.

Pont Saint-Bénézet, Avignon (photo from Pixabay)

The Palace of the Popes is a huge Gothic building in the historic center of Avignon.  Built in the mid 1300’s, it served as the residence for 9 Popes during the years when the papacy moved from Rome to Avignon.  Today it is a museum and a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

I mostly admire the palace from the outside, standing in front of it in the large Place (Square) du Palais.  The square has with wonderful views of the palace and the cathedral with the gold statue of Mary on top.  First time visitors might take a break from their walk around Avignon, buy a ticket and go Inside to find frescoes, chapels, and interesting architecture but no furnishings.  Guided tours (or self-guided with an app) help explain the rooms and the history. 

The Place de l’Horloge (Clock Tower) is Avignon’s central, and very lively, town square.  The large square is shaded by trees and ringed with cafes, restaurants, and wonderful architecture. Look for both the City Hall and the Opera House here as well as just a glimpse of the clock tower which gives the square its name. 

Place de l’Horloge

This is also where the beautiful, old, carousel is found.  If traveling with kids, this two level carousel will delight  them.  Even without children, it is fun to watch the carousel go round and round.

Church of Saint Pierre

 A small, charming square sits in front of the Church of St. Pierre, one of the oldest and smallest churches in Avignon.  The façade is remarkable for its ornate carvings, twin spires, and stunning wooden doors.  There is an impressive bell tower too.  A small art gallery and the Restaurant L’Epicerie is also found in this square. It’s a great place for lunch or dinner. In good weather the outdoor seating provides a view of the church’s facade.

From Place St. Pierre it is a short walk (past some good shopping) to Les Halles, Avignon’s fabulous food hall.  Making a detour through Les Halles is a gourmet dream.  Also a good spot for lunch with its many little eateries.

Place Pie, with Les Halles on the left

A walk though Avignon includes some of the city’s many beautiful doors and windows.

Some of the windows are old and shuttered, some have pretty window boxes. Others are the famous painted windows.  These trompe l’oeil windows are a connection to the theater festival held each summer.  So don’t forget to look up at these “false windows” to see the some fun scenes.

The last stop on an introductory walk through Avignon is my favorite spot in town – the Rue des Teinturiers (Street of the Dyers). 

Though a part of Avignon, the Rue des Teinturiers feels like a different place and a different century.  I will write more about this fascinating street in an upcoming post.

This pretty door opens to the B&B Le Limas, a small but charming place to stay in Avignon

Scenes From Two French Markets

A visit to a local market is a great way to learn about a region’s customs and culinary traditions.  When exploring a new city, I always try to include a market stop. It’s especially fun to compare markets in various countries.  While they have much in common, from fresh produce to meats and spices, it is the differences that are fascinating and provide clues as to how people live in each place.  I’ve enjoyed opportunities to discover local markets over many years of European travel -  the spices and grains in the market in Budapest, colorful fresh made pastas in Florence, amazing displays of olives and lavender in Uzes, good English cheddar at Neal’s Yard Daily in London, spicy chorizo in Barcelona. The colors, scents, and tastes of these markets color my travel memories.

No doubt this is a market in France !  Where else can you find macarons like this?   

While all of those markets have been wonderful, the markets in France have been some of my favorites.  From the small outdoor weekly markets in Uzes and Chalon sur Saône, to the big permanent markets in Avignon and Lyon, each draws me in and makes me want to inhale the scents, taste everything, shop, and cook.

So when I recently headed to France for some time in both Lyon and Avignon as bookends to a Rhône River cruise, you can bet that the markets in those two cities were on my “must see” list.   

The market in Lyon is the bigger of the two.  Its name was modified in 2006 to include a tribute to the legendary French chef Paul Bocuse so that today the market is named Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse.  It’s a temple to French Gastronomy and a monument to one of its best known chefs.  

It’s hard to describe all the wonderful foods to be found here, from the freshest fruits and vegetables to French cheeses and pâtés, crusty breads, seafood of all types, quiches, and pastries. So I will let the photos do the talking.   

Not just a place to buy provisions, Les Halles in Lyon also contains several small restaurants, bars, and cafes.  It’s the perfect setting for a quick coffee or a post shopping lunch.

One of the small eateries in Lyon's Les Halle Paul Bocuse.

The market in Avignon, also called Les Halles (which just means The Halls), is smaller but no less impressive.   The tarts, large ones with big chunks of eggplant, and tiny ones with a variety of fillings were like culinary art.  And oh the vegetable clafoutis ! 

The fougasse, a local bread, plain or filled, looked like perfect picnic food.  There was even a booth that sold only potatoes – red, yellow, white, purple. Rounds ones and fingerlings.  I was itching to make a French potato salad, if only I’d had a kitchen! And now, just writing this has made me hungry.

Do you have a favorite market, either at home or abroad? I’d love to see your market photos this week on the Two Parts Italy Face

Can anything beat a French tnrtelette for dessert? 

Ferragosto 2024

Here we are in the middle of August, just in time for the Italian celebration of Ferragosto on the 15th.

A national holiday in Italy, the Italians often stretch it beyond a single day as families head to the beach, the lake, or the mountains for some extended summer R&R time.

Ferragosto is one holiday I wish would be adopted in the US. After all, who doesn’t need a middle of summer break from heat, storms, and work?

While I will miss the holiday in Lucca as I am in New Mexico visiting family, I will embrace it here as my very own mid-August break.

In that spirit, I will take a break from writing this week and just post some photos of one of my favorite photographic subjects - doors.

Doors are fascinating, especially the really old ones. Who passed through them? What secrets do they hide? What history did they witness?

All of these beautiful old doors were photographed in the Vieux Lyon area of Lyon, France. Some of the doors really do hide secrets as several seemingly ordinary ones open onto secret passage ways with hidden courtyards, fountains, and apartments.

Happy Ferragosto week. PS: It’s a good week to start planning winter and spring travel ! Lyon would make a great destination !