Two Parts Italy

Vernazza is crowded in June (even before peak season).

Vernazza is one of the five little villages that make up the Cinque Terre, stretching along the Ligurian coast of Italy. 4 of the 5 towns are perched right along the sea (from north to south: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Manarola, and Riomaggiore). The fifth village is Corniglia which sits nearly 400 steps up a hillside. Once a string of isolated fishing villages, the railroad made the region more accessible and the tourists soon followed. Today the Cinque Terre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, part of a national park, and a popular tourist destination.

Many would argue that the whole region has become much too popular with tourists and that is probably most true of picturesque Vernazza. It can be a very crowded place, especially in the summer.

And yet, it is a magical place to visit. Vernazza has a natural harbor surrounded by dramatic cliffs with the ruins of a castle and tower, an ancient defense against pirates, facing out to sea. The small harbor plays host to the ferry dock, fishing boats, lots of sunbathers along the rocks, and a small beach.

Standing tall above the harbor is the church of Santa Margherita D’Antiochia with it’s unusual octagonal campanile (bell tower). It is this church and the harbor that is the classic view of Vernazza and the photo taken my countless visitors (top photo). Nearby is pretty Piazza Marconi ringed with cafes and restaurants. From there a single main street links the harbor with the train station on the opposite side of town. Along the street is an arch leading to another small beach, shops, gelaterie, a small street-side chapel, and lots and lots of tourists.

When I visited in mid-June, with my daughter and two oldest grandkids, the crowds had already arrived though had not yet peaked. After a harbor side lunch we headed out along Via Roma. After a while we decided to escape the crowds by taking a left hand turn and heading up some steps to get above the fray. What a good decision!

Just one street off the busy “main drag”, Via Agostino del Santo is another world entirely. Few people, no tourists spots. But so much to enjoy - small houses with painted doors, steep streets, little hidden alleys, a couple of galleries, enchanting corners, and a walk that ended high above the harbor with great views.

This off the beaten path walk was a wonderful break from the crowds and a glimpse of Vernazza that most visitors never see. As is so often the case when visiting Italy, it is the slices of everyday life and the hidden spots that are the most enchanting.

Too often, the word I need in Italian escapes me. But today I have exactly the right word to describe my visit to the Cinque Terre - mozzafiato. That first view, of colorful houses tumbling down hillsides toward the rocky coast and the blue, blue sea beyond is nothing short of mozzafiato, breathtaking.

I had just a single day to visit this unique part of Italy. The Cinque Terre lies along the eastern edge of the Ligurian coast where the sea begins to curve along the top of the Italian penisula toward the French Riviera. A century or so ago these were five remote fishing villages but today they are connected by boat, train, and scenic walking paths, making them a popular tourist destination. I was lucky to be there on a sunny spring day just before the season when the biggest crowds arrive. One day is not enough to thoroughly explore each of the towns that make up the Cinque Terre but it was definitely enough to give me a flavor for the area and convince me that I need to return!

I arrived in Manarola on a Saturday morning in early April with a full day free to explore. I chose to spend some time in Manarola, go by boat to Vernazza, and then return to Manarola for further exploration and to meet up with my group (from Lucca Italian School) for the return trip to our home base of Lucca. The other three towns, Riomaggiore, Corniglia, and Monterosso al Mare, would have to wait for another visit.

Rose Window in the Church of San Lorenzo

Manarola is one of the smallest Cinque Terre towns. It rolls down a steep hillside from the upper town square with the gothic Church of San Lorenzo and its bell tower across the central piazza. From there, it's a downhill stroll through a street full of charming and colorful houses, flowered terraces, streets lined with small fishing boats, terraced hills covered with grapevines, and small cafes and shops.

The main street in Manarola., lined with fishing boats.

The small shop Burasca is a good place to sample the arancello (similar to limoncello but made from oranges) and to shop for local wines and products.

There are many restaurants serving fresh local fish, even take-away places selling paper cones filled with fritto misto (mixed fried fish). Further down the hillside is the landing dock for the battello (boat) to the other Cinque Terre towns. An all-day "hop on, hop off" boat pass costs 25 euro, less for single tickets between just two towns.

The boat is a great way to see both the towns and the dramatic coastline. The approach from the sea provides those mozzafiato views - sheer cliffs, colorful houses dancing down the slopes, ancient towers, tiny harbors, a glance at Corniglia high up on the bluff, and views of the sea beyond. As the boat pulls into Vernazza there is a spectacular view of the castle ruins and an ancient tower, perched on high. It's not hard to imagine the pirate raids that occurred along this coast - the reason these defensive structures were built.

The sea approach to Vernazza and the remains of a defensive tower, now housing a restaurant.

Just around the corner from the boat dock lies Vernazza's small harbor with its fishing boats, a small spiaggia (beach), and a square full of cafes with brightly colored umbrellas and inviting patios.

Wandering through the town there are green shuttered houses on the hill, the intriguing church of Santa Margherita with its domed bell tower, a passage through an arch of rock to a small beachfront (marked with a "danger" sign, which didn't stop many people from entering), a tiny street side chapel, cafes, gelato spots, and many other shops. Near the train station is a billboard showing the damage done by the landslides and floods of October 2011. As mud and water came roaring down the steep hillside, the lower town and harbor filled with mud and debris. The damage was extensive and it's no small miracle that the town was rebuilt in a matter of a couple of years; today there is little obvious evidence of the destruction, though some of the trails between towns remain closed.

A table with a view at the Belforte restaurant in Vernazza, Italy

Returning to Manarola I had just enough time to walk back up the slope, buy some arancello, sample a local white wine, visit the church of San Lorenzo, and climb up to the parking lot to start the trip back to Lucca. Days like this I just have to pinch myself and feel so fortunate to have the opportunity for one perfect day in the Cinque Terra. Mozzafiato indeed. -post by JB

Off The Beaten Path in Vernazza

The Breathtaking Beauty of the Cinque Terre