Late November in Lucca
It’s hard to believe that November is nearly over, but a blast of very cold air this past week served as a reminder that winter is on its way. After such a mild October and early November, many of us were scrambling to dig out our sweaters, hats, warm scarves, and gloves. No complaints though – the colder temps are appropriate for late November and help to set the mood for the upcoming holidays.
Soon these fall gourds will be replaced with Christmas decor
Here in Italy the 4th Thursday of November is just another workday. But most of the Americans, residents and visitors alike, plan some type of celebration to mark Thanksgiving. Though the celebrations will have an Italian twist. After all, how many of us here have ovens big enough to roast a turkey? Or dining rooms that will hold a large group for a formal dinner? Certainly not me with my miniscule kitchen, small fridge, and my tiny oven that is just barely more than the Easy Bake I had as a kid. Still, we will gather with friends in small groups in homes or larger groups in restaurants to give thanks. And we will catch up with other friends throughout the week. In a new twist for me, this year I will share a fully catered meal with a few friends. It will seem strange to not be making my mother’s turkey dressing or preparing dishes to take to a big potluck dinner. But my “usual” Lucca Thanksgiving group has scattered, some to new cities, some back to the US, some to travel adventures. And so it is time for something new. My one nod to my usual American tradition will be baking my sister Patty’s Apple-Cranberry pie. Luckily the local fruit and vegetable market managed to get some fresh cranberries just in time this year!
And of course there are lots of reasons to be thankful. My family, friends who come to visit (some of whom are wise enough to visit in November and December), some friends living here who’ve faced health issues this year but are now on the mend, the everyday joys of being in Italy, the gift of travel this past year, Lucca’s always vibrant culture, and the many blog readers who have reached out this year, come to visit, or written the emails that make my day. I appreciate you all!
One great thing about late November in Lucca is the special events that take place. The most unusual was a flash mob organized for the filming of a TV ad for next year’s Sanremo Music Festival. The musicians were from the Boccherini Institute, a local music academy. The singers were lovely as they added their voices to the orchestra playing a well-known song, Piazza Grande, made famous by Lucio Dalla and a past winner of the Sanremo competition. (video on Instagram at two_parts_italy).
Another event, Il Desco, took place this past weekend. An annual celebration of foods from the Garfagnana, it is always a fun event. The stalls are great places to buy the season’s new extra virgin olive oil, freshly ground chestnut flour, dried beans, and grains. Bring a big shopping bag, because there are also artisanal breads, local honey, many different cheeses, and lots of meat products (think salami, guanciale, sausages, lardo). Packaged gift trays too!
The longest line at Il Desco was the one I look forward to the most – the line to order necci – those warm and fragrant chestnut crepes filled with a variety of fillings (make mine fresh ricotta and honey please).
Definitely worth the wait!
Late November also brings the start of the Christmas season in Italy. With no Thanksgiving to delay its start, Christmas begins to sneak in just after Halloween. Over the past week we’ve watched as lights and decorations were hung high above the streets in the historic center of town and as big, bright, and colorful installations were placed in the piazzas. There were some fabulous holiday shop windows unveiled too and the start of the Christmas Market. (More photos of Christmas in Lucca next week)
The weekend’s big event was the lighting of the huge Christmas tree in Piazza San Michele. Quite a big crowd turned out, despite the chilly weather, for a glimpse of the tree lighting. There is a short video clip posted on Instagram (two_parts_italy). A nice glass of red wine in a cozy bar did just the trick to warm us up afterwards.
A crowd gathered to watch the ceremonial lighting of the Christmas tree
I wish you all I wonderful Thanksgiving no matter where you may find yourself this week.
Buona Festa di Ringraziamento!