Two Parts Italy

Rainy days are numerous in Lucca this month. But with an ombrello in hand we just go about our days.

After a few days of clear weather, just enough to tempt us to think about spring, we are back to cloudy wet weather here in Tuscany. My weather app has me prepared for several rainy days in a row this week. I hope the app is wrong (as it often is), but the rainy forecast has me in the mood for some Italian comfort food. For me, that means risotto.

Rice is not the first thing that pops into most people’s mind when thinking of Italian food. Rice may not have been native to Italy, but since arriving along ancient trade routes from the East it has become a staple. Northern Italy, especially the Po Valley, is an ideal setting for growing rice. Flat land and lots of water are key. And that is a good thing because rice, in the form of risotto, is a very popular dish in northern Italy.

The short, plump grains with a high starch content in Riso Nano Vialone make for a delicious creamy risotto with a “loose” consistency.

There are three main types of rice used in risotto - Carnaroli and Arborio are likely the ones most non-Italian cooks have heard of and they are the ones I first learned to use. But, In a recent cooking class at Extra Virgin Cooking, Chef Giuseppe introduced our group to a third type, Nano Vialone Veronese, which he explained resulted in an especially creamy texture. He wasn’t kidding! The risotto con fungi (risotto with mushrooms) we made in class that day was wonderful with great flavor and a perfect creamy texture. Since then, Nano Vialone Veronese has become my go to risotto rice.

Risotto has many variations, both regional and seasonal. In Lucca, at this time of year, pumpkin and sausage take center stage. I first tasted this combination at Trattoria Gigi and immediately set out to make a version at home. It is the perfect comfort food for a rainy February day. Here is my version of Risotto con Zucca e Salsiccia (Risotto with Pumpkin and Sausage). Here in Italy it is easy to find already peeled and cubed pumpkin in the markets which speeds the preparation of this dish. I sneak in a little French Calvados for a bit of a flavor twist, but white wine works just as well.

Ingredients:

Delicately sliced leeks add wonderful flavor to this risotto

2 cups raw pumpkin, in small cubes.

5 teaspoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO), divided

1 leek cleaned, cut in half lengthwise, and thinly sliced (about 1 cup)

1 ¼ cups risotto rice ( Nano Vialone Veronese, Carnaroli, or Arborio)

3 Tablespoons Calvados or white wine

3 ½ cups vegetable broth

¼ teaspoon Kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

Roasting the pumpkin is key to developing its flavor.

300 grams sausage, crumbled and cooked through.

2 Tablespoons butter

Toss the cubed pumpkin with 2 teaspoons EVOO and roast at 400 degrees F for ~ 20 - 25 minutes (until tender). The smaller the cubes the faster it will be done. Set aside.

Sautè sliced leek in 2 teaspoons EVOO until tender. Add 1 teaspoon more of EVOO to the leeks, followed by the rice. Toss the rice to coat with oil and then toast lightly for 3 or 4 minutes.

Add the Calvados or wine and stir while it evaporates.

Pour 1 cup of hot vegetable broth into the rice, bring to a simmer. At this point you can cover the pan and turn off the heat, allowing the rice and broth to sit for up to an hour or so.

When ready to finish the risotto, add a second cup of hot broth and bring the rice back to a simmer. Over low heat, stir until the broth is absorbed. Continue to add the rest of the broth (up to 1 ½ more cups) in ½ cup portions, stirring until each addition is absorbed and rice is tender.

With the last addition of broth, add the cooked sausage and small cubes of the roasted pumpkin to the risotto. Cook and stir until the broth is absorbed and the risotto has a creamy texture.

Stir in 2 Tablespoons of butter. Serve immediately. A little sprinkle of parmigiano reggiano cheese is nice when added at the table. A crisp white wine pairs well with this risotto. Buon appetito!

Here is a recipe for a wonderful day of cooking in Italy:

Start with Chef Giuseppe Mazzocchi (he makes the magic happen). You’ll meet Giuseppe, along with your small group of classmates, for a bit of shopping at Montecatini’s market. Here you’ll find fresh herbs, veggies, and just the right beans for soup. It’s a great way to start the day and learn about local ingredients.

This very old “hog-back” bridge spans the stream behind Il Molino

Next, spend the day at the historic molino (mill) where Giuseppe’s grandparents lived and worked. The mill property is over 600 years old and sits alongside a stream whose waters once powered the mill equipment.

Inside the old mill you’ll find a professional kitchen with lots of workspace. Here, under the chef’s guidance, you will prepare and cook authentic Italian dishes. If the day is chilly, there will be a fire burning in the kitchen’s large fireplace. Could there be a better atmosphere for cooking? I think not!

To make the atmosphere even better, enjoy some Prosecco while prepping ingredients and take a break to sample some regional olive oils and cheeses.

Later, when all the work is done, you’ll share a fabulous lunch with your classmates in the beautiful dining room, the spot which once housed the olive press. Today it is a rustic yet elegant space with a table large enough for all to gather. Giuseppe will select wines that pair perfectly with the food you’ve prepared. A member of the Italian Sommelier Association, he knows his wines and happily shares that knowledge during the meal.

A beautiful table setting adds to the enjoyment of lunch

Some of you may have done a class with Giuseppe at Extra Virgin Cooking when it was located inside the historic center of Lucca. Those classes were wonderful and inspired me to write an earlier blog post (from April 2022). With completion of the mill renovations, all of the classes moved out to Il Molino last summer. New location and a new name - The Olive Press Kitche. I was excited to experience the new location when, with a couple of friends, I signed up for a class this past October.

The cooking school is in the hills outside of Montecatini. Montecatini can be reached by train along the Florence - Lucca line. Coming from either Lucca or Florence, it is about 30 minutes to the Montecatini Centro stop. Once there, Giuseppe will meet you and it is just a short walk to the market. Classes include round trip transportation between Montecatini and Il Molino.

My October class took place on a chilly, rainy day so we enjoyed the fireplace while we prepared our first course, a Zuppa Frantoiana. This is a typical fall soup of vegetables and beans drizzled with the season’s fresh pressed olive oil.

We also prepared a beef based ragu to go with Gnudi, a light as a cloud ricotta and spinach dumpling. Shaping the gnudi takes practice and we all had fun learning the technique (but even more fun eating them at lunch).

Fall is funghi (mushroom) season, so we also made a risotto with several types of mushrooms, including porcinis.

I can almost smell these thyme scented mushrooms cooking!

Last, we made a wonderful classic Italian dessert - zabaglione. Rich with egg yolk, sugar, marsala wine, and whipped cream, it was topped with fresh berries. A perfect way to end our meal.

Everything about classes with The Olive Press Kitchen is special. From Giuseppe’s care and teaching, to the gorgeous setting, to the small group of students, to the shared meal of authentic foods and wines. For anyone interested in food, cooking, or just good eating, a day spent at the mill cooking with Giuseppe is a fabulous experience.

Classes are scheduled 3 days per week, 9 am to about 2:30 pm. All classes are in English. Cost (as of January 2025) is €130 per person.

Contact info: info@theolivepresskitchen.com

Website: theolivepresskitchen.com