Two Parts Italy

Rainy days are numerous in Lucca this month. But with an ombrello in hand we just go about our days.

After a few days of clear weather, just enough to tempt us to think about spring, we are back to cloudy wet weather here in Tuscany. My weather app has me prepared for several rainy days in a row this week. I hope the app is wrong (as it often is), but the rainy forecast has me in the mood for some Italian comfort food. For me, that means risotto.

Rice is not the first thing that pops into most people’s mind when thinking of Italian food. Rice may not have been native to Italy, but since arriving along ancient trade routes from the East it has become a staple. Northern Italy, especially the Po Valley, is an ideal setting for growing rice. Flat land and lots of water are key. And that is a good thing because rice, in the form of risotto, is a very popular dish in northern Italy.

The short, plump grains with a high starch content in Riso Nano Vialone make for a delicious creamy risotto with a “loose” consistency.

There are three main types of rice used in risotto - Carnaroli and Arborio are likely the ones most non-Italian cooks have heard of and they are the ones I first learned to use. But, In a recent cooking class at Extra Virgin Cooking, Chef Giuseppe introduced our group to a third type, Nano Vialone Veronese, which he explained resulted in an especially creamy texture. He wasn’t kidding! The risotto con fungi (risotto with mushrooms) we made in class that day was wonderful with great flavor and a perfect creamy texture. Since then, Nano Vialone Veronese has become my go to risotto rice.

Risotto has many variations, both regional and seasonal. In Lucca, at this time of year, pumpkin and sausage take center stage. I first tasted this combination at Trattoria Gigi and immediately set out to make a version at home. It is the perfect comfort food for a rainy February day. Here is my version of Risotto con Zucca e Salsiccia (Risotto with Pumpkin and Sausage). Here in Italy it is easy to find already peeled and cubed pumpkin in the markets which speeds the preparation of this dish. I sneak in a little French Calvados for a bit of a flavor twist, but white wine works just as well.

Ingredients:

Delicately sliced leeks add wonderful flavor to this risotto

2 cups raw pumpkin, in small cubes.

5 teaspoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO), divided

1 leek cleaned, cut in half lengthwise, and thinly sliced (about 1 cup)

1 ¼ cups risotto rice ( Nano Vialone Veronese, Carnaroli, or Arborio)

3 Tablespoons Calvados or white wine

3 ½ cups vegetable broth

¼ teaspoon Kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

Roasting the pumpkin is key to developing its flavor.

300 grams sausage, crumbled and cooked through.

2 Tablespoons butter

Toss the cubed pumpkin with 2 teaspoons EVOO and roast at 400 degrees F for ~ 20 - 25 minutes (until tender). The smaller the cubes the faster it will be done. Set aside.

Sautè sliced leek in 2 teaspoons EVOO until tender. Add 1 teaspoon more of EVOO to the leeks, followed by the rice. Toss the rice to coat with oil and then toast lightly for 3 or 4 minutes.

Add the Calvados or wine and stir while it evaporates.

Pour 1 cup of hot vegetable broth into the rice, bring to a simmer. At this point you can cover the pan and turn off the heat, allowing the rice and broth to sit for up to an hour or so.

When ready to finish the risotto, add a second cup of hot broth and bring the rice back to a simmer. Over low heat, stir until the broth is absorbed. Continue to add the rest of the broth (up to 1 ½ more cups) in ½ cup portions, stirring until each addition is absorbed and rice is tender.

With the last addition of broth, add the cooked sausage and small cubes of the roasted pumpkin to the risotto. Cook and stir until the broth is absorbed and the risotto has a creamy texture.

Stir in 2 Tablespoons of butter. Serve immediately. A little sprinkle of parmigiano reggiano cheese is nice when added at the table. A crisp white wine pairs well with this risotto. Buon appetito!

A week or so ago we had a terrific rainstorm in Lucca. I got caught in it and, despite my big purple umbrella, came home soaking wet. I spent the rest of the afternoon sitting near my window, listening to rain fall and watching colorful umbrellas pass by.

After a week of warm spring weather, that cold and rainy day felt as if we’d stepped back into March. Rainy weather is perfect for staying inside, reading, and sipping a coffee. I had a good book and my Moka pot was fired up so no complaints about the weather from me!

It was also perfect weather for my favorite Italian comfort food – risotto. Luckily, I happened to have some great risotto ingredients in my fridge – a leek and some mushrooms. I also always have some Arborio rice on hand, so there was no need to venture out again into the storm in order to make dinner.

Simple ingredients, but fabulous flavor!

I didn’t have a recipe for this risotto, so I just improvised as I went along. The results were delicious and just the perfect meal for a wet and chilly evening. I am glad I made notes as I cooked, because this is a risotto I will definitely make again. Here’s the recipe:

Mushroom and Leek Risotto (serves 2)

¾ cup risotto rice (Carnaroli or Arborio)

1 and ½ oz dry white wine

2 tsp extra virgin olive oil

2 c. hot vegetable broth

2 and ½ tablespoons butter, divided

1 medium leek, (about 1 cup sliced)

4-5 oz mushrooms , sliced fairly thin.

Bring vegetable broth to a simmer while prepping the other ingredients. Is homemade broth best? Of course, but let’s be real – a good quality store bought vegetable broth works just fine and saves a lot of time and effort. Just be sure it isn’t too salty!

Cut the white and light green part of a leek in half lengthwise and then slice each half thinly across. Sauté the leeks in ½ tablespoon of butter until soft. Set aside for now.

In medium sized heavy bottom pot, heat the olive oil and add the rice. Toss to coat rice with oil and cook gently for ~ 2 minutes.

Next, add the wine and allow it to evaporate quickly. This is where it starts to smell wonderful!

Once the wine evaporates, add ½ c. of the hot broth and all of the cooked leeks. Stir well. Reduce the flame to low and stir frequently while the broth is slowly absorbed.

Continue adding broth in about ¼ cup increments, stirring while the rice absorbs each addition. Always allow the broth to be absorbed before adding the next amount. Keep stirring frequently.

Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of butter in a large frying pan, add the mushrooms, and cook over a medium-high flame, stirring as needed to prevent sticking. The goal is to brown the mushrooms quickly and to hold the juices in rather than allow the mushrooms to simmer in their pooled juices. When finished they should be browned, dry, but not crispy. Add a pinch of salt and about 5 grinds of black pepper. Set aside for now.

With the last ¼ cup of broth, add ¾ of the mushrooms. Keep stirring while the last of the broth is absorbed. Taste (cook’s benefit!) and add salt if needed. Risotto should look creamy but not soupy or gummy. When done, add 1 tablespoon of butter. Stir and serve immediately. Top each serving with a few of the reserved mushrooms.

This recipe makes a small batch of risotto, enough for two people. It can easily be doubled.

Note that there is no cheese in this risotto. Adding cheese during cooking tends to result in a gummy rather than creamy dish. You can always add a bit of parmesan at the table but I think this risotto is best without any cheese at all. Just let that mushroom flavor shine!