The central square of the Palace of Diocletian in Split, Croatia

From the Roman Empire to "Game of Thrones," the Palace of Diocletian

October 15, 2018 by Judy Giannnettino

Because the Roman Empire was so vast, it isn’t hard to find traces of it in parts of Europe outside of Italy. The Palace of Diocletian is one example. Commissioned by Diocletian, who became emperor in 284, it sits in the bay of Split in Croatia.

Diocletian may have been a Roman ruler but he was born in Croatia in what was the capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia. He had the palace built as his retirement home. Unlike most other rulers of that time whose reigns typically ended with their death, Diocletian held power for 20 years and then retired. He returned to his native land, a beautiful country that today has the feel of both Western and Eastern Europe.

Apartments inside the palace juxtaposed with ancient stonework

The palace is one of many Roman ruins in Croatia but it is unique in that it is still inhabited. After Diocletian died and the palace no longer was used, refugees from the area where Diocletian had been born settled in the palace after their city was destroyed by invaders. Wealthy refugees moved into the emperor’s apartments and those less fortunate turned the towers and the spaces above the gates into homes. Today, apartments still are part of the palace, nestled next to the portions that serve as a museum, and the palace makes up about half of Split’s old city. Shops and restaurants are also part of the palace, which looks more like a fortress. It is said to be the most complete remains of a Roman palace.

A tour inside reveals ancient walls, a bust of the emperor, sewer “pipes,” and much more. Built of limestone and marble, the palace is almost rectangular in shape and has towers the rise from its western, eastern and northern facades. Massive gates were on each side as well. The central square, or peristyle, is largely intact today and draws tourists from around the world.

Above photos, from left, a granite sphinx from Egypt, a bust of the emperor, sewer blocks, Roman arches in the peristyle

An unusual piece in the peristyle is a granite sphinx that came from the site of an Egyptian pharaoh some 3,500 years ago. The palace originally was decorated with several of the sphinxes – all from the same Egyptian site.

If you are a “Game of Thrones” fan, you will be familiar with the palace as some of the series was filmed there. Whether your interest is modern-day TV or ancient history, the palace is definitely worth a visit.

-post by JG

Quilting - An Unexpected Italian Art

October 08, 2018 by Joanne Bartram

There are only a few art forms that I think of as uniquely American - jazz for example. I also would have placed quilting in this group, but it turns out that is all wrong. Early quilts, more functional than decorative, were used in Egypt, Asia, and Europe centuries before European settlers arrived in America. Decorative quilts came later - part of an Italian one from the mid-1800s can be seen in chair-backs in the Bargello Museum in Florence; it is one of the oldest surviving quilts (and also gave name to a particular wavy pattern used in quilting). So much for quilting being an original American craft!

Detail from Tulipani by Antonella Stivanello

Still, the last type of art show I expected to find in Italy was an exhibition of quilts, and so the announcement for the Quilt Art in Lucca exhibition surprised and intrigued me. Quilt is, clearly, an English word (though derived from Latin meaning “to stuff”). It turns out there is no equivalent word in Italian. The promotional materials for the quilt show mention “piccoli pezzi di stoffa” (little pieces of cloth), but “quilt” is the word they use to describe the beautiful whole pieces that evolve from those little pieces of cloth.

The mostra (exhibit or show) contained a wide variety of quilts - from traditional patchwork styles to modern abstract pieces, to quilts with almost photographic detail, and quilts using multi-materials. Some were small to medium pieces, designed as wall hangings, while some were much larger. No matter the size, all were gorgeous enough to display as art.

Signora by Anita Arrighi

Echinacean Sunrise by Hazel McCullagh

Fiori di cappero by Laura Franci

Ain’t that American by R. Daniel

detail Cat tail in the Meadow. J. Carnevale

It’s a Plus. J. Carnevale & R. Daniel

Enhancing this vibrant visual display of color and pattern was the setting - the Casa di Boia (Executioner’s House), a restored building rising right through Lucca’s famous wall. The quilts were displayed in the section lying beneath the walls, with its stone walls and arches. I can’t imagine a more perfect setting for this first-ever quilt show in Lucca. With an active group of quilters living here, and a lovely quilt shop in town, this will be an annual event. I will look forward to next year’s show. -post by JMB

A perfect mid-September evening in Piazza San Francesco, Lucca. Photo by Jim Carnevale, used with permission.

September in Lucca

October 01, 2018 by Joanne Bartram

September is a special month in Lucca. Known as Settembre Lucchese, it is a month filled with special events and many visitors. It seems that in September there is something to please everyone.

Waiting for the luminaria procession to begin in Piazza San Frediano

The most important September event is the Santa Croce, or Volto Santo, celebration, which has religious and cultural meaning. The highlight of the Festa di Santa Croce is the luminaria - a nighttime procession through candlelit streets. The procession includes many civic groups, school groups, and church groups from throughout the province of Lucca and the region of Tuscany. Anyone with family ties to Lucca is encouraged to return and participate. There is music - solemn liturgical chants interspersed with lively drummers and even a brass band. Archers dressed in Medieval costumes march by, accompanied by women in beautiful Medieval garb. The luminaria procession is held annually on September 13 - it is a spectacular sight and a great reason to visit this part of Italy in mid-September. For a more detailed description of the legend of Volto Santo see “The Legend of the Volto Santo” post from September of 2017.

Days before the festival begins, workers line the windows and doors of the buildings along the procession route with frames bearing large votive candles. These are lit the evening of the procession and there is great excitement as people gather along the route, everyone finding their preferred vantage point and waiting for night to fall and the procession to begin.

Some of the other events this September have included:

The fall Murabilia garden show on the walls (described previously in the post, Buon Weekend). What a great reason this provides to be outdoors in beautiful late summer weather.

This looks like a still-life painting, but is actually a display of pears at the Murabilia garden show.

The annual fall street market in Borgo Giannotti, just outside the walls of Lucca. This busy market takes place each weekend in September and has booths selling every variety of household good and a great selection of foods, from baccalà (dried cod) to porcini mushrooms, to artfully arranged fruits and vegetables to flowers.

Street Fair, Borgo Giannotti

Heather plants at the street fair

Fall harvest at the street fair

Concerts (symphonic and choral) held in the churches of San Francesco and San Michele. These ancient churches have fantastic acoustics and provide the perfect setting for music by local favorites including Luigi Boccherini and Domenico Puccini (grandfather of Giacomo Puccini and one of several generations of Puccinis to make music in Lucca), as well as other Italian composers such as Luigi Cherubini (1760-1842) and Antonio Vivaldi (1678-1741). Sitting in one of these beautiful churches, filled with music and voices, really is magical. Music in Lucca - what could be better?

Concerto per San Michele. Glorious music!

A celebration of local artisans, the Lucca Artigiana show. The focus of this exhibition was on local craftsmen and their wares - ceramics, tiles, woodwork, sculptures, furniture, clothing, baskets, metal work. Most interesting to me was the exhibit of old black and white photos showing traditional craftsmen at work. There was even a hands-on crafts area for children, making this a true family event. An added bonus was that the exhibit took place in a beautiful setting - the Real Collegio - an event space that was formerly the monastery behind the church of San Frediano.

A woodworkers bench

Handcrafted Tessieri floor tiles

Beautiful ceramic demijohns

A different form of art - paper art - also takes place throughout September.

The Biennale d’Arte (formerly called Cartasia) takes place every other year in Lucca. The exhibits, scattered throughout the city, are unique and each edition presents a specific theme.

This is such a fascinating exhibit that it deserves a post of its very own - coming soon. In the meantime, here is a sample from the 2018 show.

These are just some of the September events. There was also a quilt show (a first for Lucca), a Medieval long bow competition, and open-air concerts and movies, not to mention a piazza full of bubbles one afternoon

In addition to all of these special events, September brings warm days and cool evenings, the first hint of changing leaves, and the beginning of the grape harvest.- A perfect time to visit this part of Italy! -Post by JMB

Putto (cherub), church of San Frediano, Lucca, Italy

A “Buon Weekend” in Lucca, Italy

September 24, 2018 by Joanne Bartram

Italian for “have a good weekend” is to say “buon fine settimana” but, because Italians have adopted some American words and expressions, it is just as common to hear Italians say “buon weekend.” And my first weekend back in Italy was definitely a buon weekend, filled with activities and that special charm that is Lucca.

Friday evening’s highlight was a performance of arias from Puccini’s “Madame Butterfly.” No ordinary performance this - it look place outside in Piazza Cittadella, the piazza graced with a famous statue of “il maestro” himself and where the Puccini birthplace and museum are located.

Ticket holders for the concert had reserved seats, but my friends and I watched from a cafe/bar along the edge of the performance area. Sipping a spritz and listening to the elegant voices while sitting outdoors in an ancient piazza was a perfect start to my first weekend in Lucca.

Saturday was a busy day that began with the fall garden show Murabilia, an annual event that takes place on, and under, the southeast portion of the wall surrounding the “centro storico” (old city center) of Lucca and in the lovely botanic garden (the Orto Botanico) at the base of the wall.

This exhibition of flowers, fruits, vegetables, trees, and garden design included a special focus on Japanese gardens. There were lectures (given in stone-walled rooms underneath the walls that surround the city), exhibits of seed preservation (my favorite was by the group called Seed Vicious), and of course a plant sale (oh the variety of chrysanthemums).

Exhibits included a Japanese moss garden, an impressive display of vegetable and fruit varieties, and giardini aquatici (water gardens, complete with tiny fish).

There were also craft demonstrations. including several basket makers, broom makers, woodworkers, terra cotta potters, and hat makers, along with artists selling beautiful prints, ceramics, and a host of artistic pieces.

This was an enticing way to spend a morning, on and under the shady tree-lined walls, surrounded by colorful flowers, serene gardens, the architecture of the walls, and Lucchese families with children and dogs, all enjoying a perfect late summer day.

This little girl was fascinated with the small fish in the water garden

Dogs are welcome everywhere here!

Dogs at the garden show (photo just for my friend Connie)

Saturday afternoon revolved around a very special event - a national competition of balestrieri that just happened to be in Lucca this year.

The teams, which came from various cities throughout Italy, were dressed in Medieval garb.

There were banners, drummers, flag throwers, beautifully costumed women, and, of course, men with crossbows. Quite a pageant!

These Medieval events are a particular favorite of mine and I was delighted to have this one, which continued on Sunday, on my first weekend here.

My busy weekend ended with an aperitivo with friends Sunday afternoon in the beautiful Piazza San Francesco. As for Monday, grocery shopping and laundry were on the agenda. Not every day can be a buon weekend, not even in Lucca. -post by JMB

Porta San Pietro, one of entrances into Lucca.

A Return to Italy - And a Question

September 17, 2018 by Joanne Bartram

I’m not sure if I should begin this post by saying “I’m back” or “I’m home” so I will simply say “sono arrivata a Lucca” (I have arrived in Lucca). I’m always excited to be back here, but this arrival comes with a big question. The question is this - Do I want to make Lucca my home base for the foreseeable future or should I just stay a part-timer?

With a city this lovely, who wouldn’t want to stay?

I’ve been tossing this question around in my mind for a few years. Now, for the the first time, it could be more than a daydream. A number of things make it possible now - I’m retired, except for a small contract at my former University, work I can do long distance. While I have strong ties to the United States, I have few actual day-to-day responsibilities. More importantly, I just sold my home in the USA; freedom from a mortgage there equals the financial resources to rent a year-round apartment here. Lastly, I have all but one final document needed to apply for Italian citizenship and that document is expected any day now. Even if that document is delayed, I could apply for a one year visa once I have a contract for a rental home here. So, back to the question, is this what I want?

My first few days here have certainly motivated me to stay. A trip up into the hills outside of Lucca for dinner with friends was a great way to spend part of my first full day here. One of the joys of living here is discovering out-of-the-way spots with fabulous views and authentic local foods, in this case the Osteria Il Botteghino, near Ciciana, pictured below. That the friends who brought me to this tasty spot have recently moved to this part of Italy only adds encouragement!

The next day included a trip to the Italian version of Home Depot for a few things needed for my current apartment. And really, what says “I live here” more than a morning at the local hardware store?

Catching up over coffee with another friend, a part-time Lucca resident, was more inspiration.

Today I took a long walk along le mura (the wall surrounding the old city center), sipped an iced coffee in a favorite piazza, and received warm greetings from locals I have come to know. Now, I’m spending a quiet afternoon sitting on my patio and writing. Life here suits me. The pace is just right.

There are of course the “buts”. But I will miss my children and grandchildren (this is the biggest issue for me). But I will miss my friends back home (true), But life in Italy, while wonderful, also has it’s challenges (there are certainly fewer conveniences here, not to mention no window screens!). But I’m still not fluent in Italian ( a work in progress). But, but, but.

Sipping iced coffee on Piazza San Michele, Lucca

And yet - if I’m ever going to do this, then now is the time. My children support me in this (a blessing) and I’m not getting any younger. So, I will begin to search for a year round rental apartment (affittare - to rent - my new favorite Italian word) and over the next several weeks I will live with the idea of staying here to see how it feels. If it feels right, I’ll base myself here for the next year or two. Just thinking of all the things to discover and write about in that time is exciting. I will also plan visits back to New Mexico and, hopefully, visits to Italy by my family. As for my friends - well, they will have a friend to visit in Italy, how bad could that be?

If I decide that living here full time is not right, or I can’t find an affordable apartment, then I’ll continue to split my time between Lucca and the USA, renting short term apartments here for each visit. Either way, I don’t think I can lose! post by JMB

A classic view of Lucca