When 90 days Is Not Enough: Elective Residency in Italy. Part One: The Schengen Zone and Why it Matters

Italy, at least in my experience, is highly addictive. My Italy habit began with a two-week trip 23 years ago and for me it was love (need, desire, longing – call it what you will) at first sight. Back then, with a family at home and a full-time job, I could only manage a visit every few years. Over time, my longing for Italy grew until finally, on the cusp of my 60th birthday, I arrived for a “once in a lifetime” month-long visit. As with most addictions, that visit only fed my desire, and it quickly became clear that once was not enough. 

Piazza Anfiteatro, Lucca

After that trip I found a way to return to Italy for annual visits, which soon became twice annual visits. Once I retired, those twice-a- year visits began to lengthen, bumping into the maximum 90-day stay permitted for non-EU residents. This is how it goes with an Italy obsession until eventually you realize that even 90 days is not enough.

For non-EU citizens who wish to visit for longer than the maximum of 90 days, the process of gaining the needed permissions can be intimidating, to say the least. There are many sources of information – and all of them seem to say something different - leading to confusion and frustration.

A bridge over the Magra River in Bagnone, Tuscany

I recently completed the process of obtaining a visa and a permesso di soggiorno, permitting me to remain in Italy long term. I’ve had lots of requests for information about this process, so it seems timely to write about it. I’ll share information I’ve gleaned from a number of sources, all colored by my own experience as an American seeking permission for a “license to live” in Italy. Since this is a huge topic, I’ll break the information into several posts, Part One: The Schengen Zone and Why it Matters and Part Two: The Visa and Part Three: The Permesso di Soggiorno.

First, some basics about the Schengen Zone.

The Schengen Zone is the “borderless” area of Europe that allows freedom of movement between countries. Members include most nations in the European Union, including Italy (but excluding Great Britain and Ireland) and some non-EU countries (Norway and Switzerland for example). Citizens of Schengen Zone countries do not need special documentation to cross borders and have the ability to remain in any of the member countries for extended periods without further permissions

Barcelona - Spain is another EU country with membership in the Schengen Zone.

Many non-EU citizens (Americans and Canadians included) can enter the Schengen Zone, and travel between countries, with just a passport, no visa required.  However, visits are limited to a maximum of 90 days in any 181-day period (roughly equivalent to three months out of any six months - but it’s important to count the days exactly). The rules allow for either a single visit of 90 consecutive days  or for multiple visits in and out of the zone as long as a total of 90 days out of any 181-day period is not exceeded. This total is the same whether visiting a single Schengen Zone country or multiple countries.

The 181 days is a “rolling” period, meaning the days are counted backward from today (or from the day you plan to leave the zone). Confusing? Yes.  It helps to review the Schengen Zone regulations (available online - see link below) and yes, there is an app for that (which tracks previous visits and calculates the length of permitted stays in the zone for a current or future visit; the one I’ve used is called Schengen 90).

A cafe in Arezzo - so charming, who wouldn’t want to stay here long term?

Here is an example based on my 2018 / 2019 travel (it may help to look at this with a calendar at hand):

I entered the Schengen Zone on February 19, 2018, and remained in Italy for 83 days, leaving on May 12, 2018.  This less-than-90-day visit required just my U.S. passport.

I was then out of Italy and the Schengen Zone for more than 90 days, so when I re-entered on September 3, 2018, I was entitled to stay another 90 days. My actual stay for that trip was 58 days - from September 3 through October 30. Still traveling with just my U.S. passport. So far, so good.

Here is where is gets complicated - I returned to Italy on December 6, 2018, (just 37 days after my exit on October 30). Suppose that I wanted to remain in Italy through the end of February 2019 (a total of 85 days from December 3, 2018  - February 28, 2019). This stay would not be allowed under Schengen rules even though the trip would have been for fewer than 90 days. To see why this stay would be a problem, count backward 181 days from my desired February 28, 2019, departure, which takes you back to August 31, 2018. Between August 31, 2018, and February 28, 2019, I would have spent a total of 143 days in the Schengen Zone (all of that in Italy)  - far more than the 90-day limit even though no individual stay was greater than 90 days.   The math works like this: 58 days in September/October 2018, plus 85 days from December 2018 through February 2019  - 143 days total in this 181-day period. So - I would have needed to leave Italy much sooner than the end of February on such a trip. Plugging these dates into the Schengen 90 app (pictured below), you will see my three 2018 / 2019 trips. The red “53” signifies that I would have overstayed my limit by 53 days. Not a good mistake to make!  It also shows that if my next trip were to begin on June 23, 2019, (after an absence of four months) I would once again be eligible for a 90-day stay if traveling with just my U.S. passport.

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So, what’s a person to do if they want to remain in Italy longer? For stays beyond 90 days (or more than 90 out of any 181-day period) a visa is required. The most important thing to know is that the visa MUST be obtained in one’s home country before arrival in Italy. It simply isn’t possible to obtain the visa after arriving in Italy. Trust me on this - I know several people who have arrived in Italy, having rented or purchased an apartment, and who had to return home after 90 days because they didn’t obtain a visa before coming to Italy - an expensive and discouraging mistake.! And don’t listen to anyone who says that you just have to leave the Schengen Zone for a day to restart the 90-day clock - that simply is not true. It’s critical to know the Schengen Zone rules and Italy’s specific requirements when planning a long-term stay (or a permanent move) to Italy.

If you are planning a longer stay in Italy (or even just daydreaming about one), stay tuned for Part 2 of this post - the process of obtaining a visa and a permesso di soggiorno.    -post by Joanne

for more information:

https://www.schengenvisainfo.com/us-citizens/

Verona

Le Porte Italiane (Italian Doors)

Doors are fascinating.  

They beckon us to enter, to explore, to see what lies beyond. They also keep us out - leaving us to imagine what we can’t see. 

And nowhere are doors more fascinating than in Italy, where they have a special mystique, a special beauty. Aged, worn, colorful, mysterious - enchanting.

I take a lot of photos - and doors are often my subject.  Here are some that have particularly captured my imagination.  

Do you have a door photo that has intrigued you?  If so, please add them to this post with a response on Facebook. We would love to see them!

Vernazza, Cinque Terre

Sant’Andrea di Compito, Tuscany

Livorno, Tuscany

Montecarlo, Tuscany

Colognora di Pescaglia, Tuscany

Levanto, Liguria

Castellina in Chianti, Tuscany

Pietrasanta, Tuscany

Montecarlo, Tuscany

Volterra, Tuscany

Perhaps my favorite door - the one to my apartment in Lucca.

-Post by Joanne

Three Days on the Ligurian Coast

The Italian region of Liguria is home to stunning sea views, tiny harbors, fresh fish, and the world’s best pesto. To the southeast lie the five towns of the Cinque Terre. To the northwest, the Italian Riviera. How can one small slice of Italy be so blessed?

 In between the Cinque Terre and the Italian Riviera sits the small town of Levanto, which made a perfect landing spot for a recent short vacation with my daughter and two of my grandkids. 

Levanto has beaches, boats, views, good food, and even a castle.

Levanto is the first town north of Monterosso al Mare (the northern-most of the Cinque Terre towns). It has the great advantage of being much less hectic than towns in the heavily touristed Cinque Terre. Levanto is easily reached by train, either a local from La Spezia or the faster intercity train from Pisa or Viareggio.  For local transportation, the Cinque Terre Express links Levanto to the four coastal towns of the Cinque Terre and - even better - there are regularly scheduled ferry boats between Levanto and the Cinque Terre villages. Levanto has a laid-back, friendly, casual beach vibe - perfect for a family vacation.

Kids love the ferry boats between Levanto and the villages of the Cinque Terre.

We chose the charming B&B A Durmi for our three-night stay. This is a small, family-run B&B with comfy rooms and small apartments opening onto pretty courtyards, perfect for al fresco breakfasts or afternoon drinks.  Elisa and Chiara take wonderful care of their guests, providing helpful information about Levanto, restaurant suggestions, timetables for boats and trains to the Cinque Terre, and even beach towels and umbrellas. Our two-bedroom, two-bath apartment was perfect for two adults and two kids, and having a kitchen for some meals and snacks was a plus. A big thanks goes to my friend Susan for suggesting A Durmi - it’s a winner! 

A Durmi’s pretty courtyard

Delighted by real Ligurian pesto at Macaja

We ate well in Levanto, too. 

Think anchovies and pesto (both are  local specialties), fish, and lemons (limone gelato!).

We enjoyed simple and tasty meals at the tiny family-run Macaja (fried anchovies, a pasta with pesto and one with anchovies, good salads), delicious pizza at Taverna Garibaldi, and one upscale (but still reasonably priced) meal at Ristorante Antico Borgo (ravioli filled with fish, a pesto ravioli with potato and green beans, a wonderful grilled lamb). Che buono!

But, as good as the food was, the real star of the trip was the sea. Day passes for the tourist boats let us hop on and hop off at the Cinque Terre towns (cost 30 euro per adult, 15 for children age 10 and under).

A Cinque Terre ferry boat stopping in Monterosso al Mare on the way to Levanto

In a single day we explored Vernazza, Manarola, and Monterosso al Mare. Were they crowded? Well, yes. The Cinque Terre is always crowded in summer. But in early June the crowds were less than they will be at the height of summer and the tiny villages were still enjoyable. My grandkids (ages 10 and 13) loved the harbors, coastal guard towers, narrow streets, small fishing boats, sea-themed gift shops, and - most of all - the boats that ferried us between towns, the bumpy waves, and the occasional splash from the wake of a passing boat.  For a couple of landlocked New Mexico kids, this was a real adventure!

The tiny harbor and rocky coastline at Manarola

Levanto (unlike many of the Cinque Terre villages) also has nice stretches of beach. There are several private beaches (where you pay to use beach chairs, umbrellas, and cabanas) as well as two public beaches (free, bring your own umbrellas and towels).

The public beach at Levanto - soft sand, calm waters, and stunning views in every direction

And there was so much more to enjoy in Levanto - an easy, short hike up to the castle, a daily market, an old town with medieval loggia and streets, a seaside promenade, and hiking trails.

The castle (privately owned, closed to visitors) is just a short hike up from town.

Our three days in Levanto were a real treat - and a great way to show a different side of Italy to my grandkids. I will definitely return, and I hope next visit to explore northward to the towns of Rapallo, Portofino, and Santa Margherita along the Italian Riviera.  -post by Joanne

The Ligurian sea is magic for a couple of kids from New Mexico!

Victoria Falls - a True Natural Wonder

I saw the mist first - rising from the river in the distance - and I immediately understood why the indigenous people of the area call Victoria Falls “The Smoke that Thunders.” The mist looks like smoke – a massive cloud of smoke that seems to sit atop the Zambezi River. The thunder, of course, is the roar of the falls, which flow at the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia in southern Africa.

Victoria Falls from the air

Victoria Falls is one of the seven natural wonders of the world and a sight I have wanted to see since I was a kid. When I traveled to the area in June, it did not disappoint. How could it? Victoria Falls is classified as the largest waterfall in the world based on its combined width of 5,604 feet and height of 354 feet. From the ground, the entire fall can’t even be seen. From the air, the sight is breathtaking. The waterfall is the full width of the Zambezi - a powerful sheet of water more than a mile wide that cascades into a chasm it has carved over time.

Devils Cataract, Victoria Falls

After viewing the waterfall from the air in a helicopter, we took a well-marked footpath on the Zimbabwe side to scope out different sections of the fall from ground level. Sixteen viewing spots dot the path and the spray from the waterfall (the mist, or the smoke) gets stronger and stronger as you go. (A raincoat is advised – and provided at the entrance for visitors who don’t bring their own.) The spray is constant, which means there also is a constant rainbow at the falls, and can be seen as far as 30 miles away. The end of the path offers a view of Victoria Falls Bridge, which links Zambia and Zimbabwe below the waterfall.

A statue of Dr. Livingstone (I presume) at Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls was given its Christian name (in honor of Queen Victoria) by the Scottish missionary David Livingstone, who is believed to be the first European to have seen the falls. There are many fun facts about the falls. The One that fascinates me the most is that from September through January (the dry season), part of the waterfall can actually dry up.

An ever-present rainbow is at Victoria Falls.

Of course, southern Africa is home to various wild animals and those, too, can be spotted near the falls. From the helicopter, we saw elephants. While taking a cruise along the Zambezi, several hippo were seen, as was a small crocodile sunning itself on the shore. And on the footpath, we were greeted at one point by a baboon running toward us, as well as several smaller primates lucky enough to call this natural wonder home.

-post by Judy

Victoria Falls Bridge links Zimbabwe and Zambia.

On Safari

While Italy is my first love, seeing as much of the rest of the world as possible remains a priority for me. My most recent non-Italy adventure was to go on safari in Botswana, and despite dreaming of this for years, I really had no idea what to expect. I knew I would see animals, of course. But I couldn’t imagine what the experience would be like. Now I know why. There is nothing else like it. From the people to the animals, the lodges to the terrain, and the sunsets and “sundowners,” every experience was fresh.

Zebras and wildebeest - they often travel together.

During our trip, we stayed at three different lodges while in Botswana (we also traveled to Zimbabwe). One lodge rested on a ridge above the Boteti River, which allowed us to sit in camp or on the porches of our tents and watch zebras and elephants and birds come for drinks of water. The barking noises of the zebras could be heard at night, as could the trumpets of elephants. On the far banks, with the help of binoculars, we spotted crocodiles, herons and some impala. A hippopotamus had taken up residence beneath the game-viewing blind of the camp.

Our tent at Meno a Kwena, Botswana

The tents themselves were more than comfortable – roughing it, this was not. Indeed, this was glamping at its finest. Double beds with cozy comforters, indoor and outdoor toilets and showers, hot water for coffee brought to the room first thing in the morning. It was all part of the experience.

The view from the porch of our tent at Meno a Kwena

The other two camps were just as great – in fact, a bit more upscale. They were in the Okavango Delta, the swampy inland delta with grassy plains that is home to a wide-ranging animal habitat and that has captured my imagination for years. Early-morning game drives, afternoon tea, sunset game drives and “sundowners” (stops for drinks and snacks while the sun sets) were on the daily agenda. So were sightings of elephants, lions, giraffes, zebras, impala, kudu, jackals, hyenas, warthogs, cape buffalo, and more. The number of birds we saw was mind-boggling and the expertise of our guides was equally impressive.

Above photos, from left: an outdoor shower at one camp; elephant tracks; a rare sighting of a pangolin; bathroom sinks at a camp

We learned how to distinguish among animal tracks, why some male lions roam by themselves, how the guides tell one lion from another and over time (whisker spots unique to each cat – they’re like our fingerprints). We sat and watched lionesses stealthily move through the tall grass, hyenas hunt prey, a male lion snooze close to the road and two baby hippos sleep in the sun next to the watering hole of one camp. I was continually entranced and entertained and educated. And I can’t wait to go back. -post by Judy