Italy, the Virus, and Us

As we write this – in the days immediately following March 10 - the whole of Italy is “locked down.” Travel within the country is halted except for purposes of work or medical emergency; public institutions, including schools, libraries, and some municipal offices, are closed; and cultural events are canceled. Bars and restaurants are closed and residents are advised to only leave their homes to buy groceries and other necessities. When we do venture out, we are told to carry a government form self-certifying the reason we are outside in case we are stopped by the police. And when we get to the store or pharmacy, we no longer just walk in with everyone else. 

At the neighborhood grocery store, everyone is required to don plastic gloves and the floor leading to the checkout stand is marked in 1-meter increments - something some people ignore or don’t see, but staff members keep reminding them with a “per favore, mantenere la distanza” (please keep the distance). Luckily, the shelves are well-stocked and we have not witnessed panic buying of food or supplies. (We’ve heard there is a run on toilet paper in the U.S., why we’re not sure, but because Lucca produces most of Europe’s toilet paper supply, there is no fear of running out of carta igienica here). Hand sanitizer gel is the only shortage seen so far.

Baci e abbracci (the traditional Italian greeting with kisses and hugs) are off-limits and sorely missed. People are following the edict to remain at home - and the regulation is necessary to slow the spread of the virus.

Even Florence, usually filled with visitors, is eerily quiet these days.

As far as general mood goes, we can only speak for ourselves. We are following the rules. We will self-quarantine if we show signs of illness. We are sacrificing the hugs and kisses. But we are not succumbing to panic. We trust the Italian health care system and the Italian people. (We have friends in the U.S. who report that they feel more vulnerable than we feel here). It’s not that we are unaffected by what is happening; it is after all a strange feeling to realize that you can’t return to the U.S. for the foreseeable future even if you want to. Living under these restrictions can feel isolating but isn’t difficult – we have plenty of food and water (and wine!), we live in modern times when we can communicate with others instantaneously and constantly if we want, we have access to books, TV, the Internet.  Joanne takes comfort imagining herself as Cher’s character in the movie “Tea with Mussolini” - an American woman detained in Italy during the war. How much harder that would have been! Judy likes to spend time alone anyway so a lockdown isn’t that much of a hardship.

The wisteria will bloom soon, spring will come, and then summer. Hopefully the tourists will also arrive.

Regardless of how we react to the restrictions, we mourn for the people who have died from this virus, who are fighting for their lives, for the health care workers trying to help them, and for the tough economic times that this crisis has caused, the effects of which will be felt for a long time. Italy’s economy is dependent on tourism, and with the numerous postponements, shuttering of hotels for lack of visitors, cancellation of major events (like the final weeks of Venice’s Carnevale), closing of restaurants and shops, the impact is devastating.

And yet - we are still in what for us is the most beautiful country, surrounded by the music of the Italian language (where the word virus is pronounced “veer-ruus” with a lovely rolled “r”), and we are in the midst of friends who vow to help each other through this crisis. We have good Italian food and wine, beautiful vistas, and a sense of hope.

One thing is for certain - this will pass. And when it does, Italy will need visitors to return to help rebuild the economy. We encourage planning a future Italian vacation. In the meantime, we’ll be here, virus or not. Italy is home. –post by Joanne and Judy

NOTE: For the next few weeks, due to our inability to explore Italy as we would like and to help cement in your minds why you should visit Italy in the future, our weekly posts will be of photos from throughout Italy. The writing will resume when the restrictions on our adopted country are lifted. Thank you for all the emails and comments you have sent asking about us. Stay safe!

Roma, 2020

Rediscovering Venice

I fell in love with Venice 24 years ago on my first trip to Italy. There is a hint of mystery across every bridge, in each small canal, in the soft colors of the buildings, the sparkle of light on the water at night. Add in the graceful movement of gondolas and the sound of the waves as they slap against stone. It is easy to be seduced by Venice.

How is it possible then that 20 years have gone by since I last came to visit? I never planned to stay away so long.

Once I returned, lured by the chance to experience Carnevale here, I remembered just how enchanting Venice is. Today I want to share some of the beauty that is Venice. And for that, photos say it best.  -post by Joanne

The Boats of Venice, Italy

With its arching bridges, narrow passageways, pastel-colored buildings, and centuries-old churches, Venice never disappoints. I doubt I could tire of seeing the city’s unique beauty. But one my favorite sights around Venice is the boats that cut through the water of the lagoon that embraces the city on all sides.

The sleek black gondolas, of course, are the most iconic of the vessels. Their slim, flat-bottomed bodies were built to navigate the lagoon and they are perhaps the most recognizable feature of Venice – along with the gondoliers who propel the boats with their single oars while traditionally clad in black- and white-striped shirts, black pants and flat-topped, wide-brimmed straw hats.

Motorized water taxis with polished wood that gleams under the northern Italy sun while racing across the water are also fun to see. Then there are vaporettos, or water buses, that carry people through the canals from one “station” to another, as well as boats that carry packages and food and beverages across the city. 

A sailing boat

Water taxis

Boat watching is one of my favorite pastimes while in Venice. During a recent visit there for the beginning of Carnevale, sunny days and blue skies helped to let me capture some of my favorite boat sightings in these photos. – post by Judy   

A gondola sits idle while a vaporetto approaches on the left.

A passenger sits at the front of a vaporetto nearing Venice’s Rialto Bridge.

Carnevale in Venice

Lent, the quaresima in Italian, is the 40 days prior to Easter, a time of fasting, penance and prayer in the Catholic Church. But before Lent begins, Italy’s carnevale celebrations provide an escape from the long winter season and an excuse to indulge in food and festivities (and a bit of foolishness).

Carnevale takes on many forms and each city seems to have its own festive personality. In 2019, I experienced my first carnevale in the town of Viareggio, which hosts a raucous parade of satirical floats, poking fun at society and politicians but also making statements about current issues such as pollution and global warming. Viareggio was fun, but I also became fascinated by the photos I saw of the celebrations in Venice, which looked quite different and much more elegant, than those in Viareggio. The Venetian costumes and masks drew me in and so began my plan to attend the 2020 Carnevale celebrations in Venice.

In Venice, this year’s theme was Il Gioco, l’Amore, e la Follia (Game, Love, and Folly). The nearly month-long celebration began with a nighttime water parade as floats and performers made their way on the Cannaregio canal. Acrobats, dancers, and fire twirlers were all part of the show - some on boats and some suspended high over the water. It was a visually stunning display and unlike anything I’ve seen before.

The next morning brought another fun event, a flotilla of decorated boats, with costumed rowing crews. The fun began at the Punta della Dogana (at the lagoon end of Dorsoduro) and moved along the Grand Canal to Cannaregio.

The early morning flotilla left the rest of the day free to explore the city and spend some time in Piazza San Marco, the best place to see costumes and masks. After all, it was the costumes and masks I really came to see.

No dime-store Halloween costumes and masks these, but rather elegant, expensive, handcrafted, and themed ensembles. Imagine the time, energy, and craftsmanship to create these!

Many couples dressed in complementary period styles and were happy to pose for photos.

Women were often in elaborate dresses and wigs, looking mysterious in their masked disguises.

And the men -the men were gallant and dashing. 

Kids had fun participating too. And all of this was just the first weekend of the four-week event.

Venice is a place to love at any time of year, but it has a special energy and flair during carnevale. It’s not too early to plan a trip for next year’s event - or to begin planning a costume! -post by Joanne

Looking Up - Prague

Whenever I find myself out and about – whether on a mountain trail or a city street – I look up. The sky is my favorite backdrop to any view. When it’s vibrantly blue, it is an unparalleled canvas. When it’s stormy and grey, its drama frames other sights. I find myself especially looking up when I’m somewhere new.

Prague is known for its many spires.

Such was the case during a recent trip to Prague. On somewhat of a lark, I proposed to Joanne, my co-blogstress and frequent travel buddy, that we head to Prague for a few days en route to Venice for Carnivale (yes, I know that from Lucca, Prague is not the most direct route to Venice). Neither of us had been to Prague before so we booked cheap flights and headed north.

It was February. And it was cold. Prague, however, was beautiful. From its Jewish Quarter to its Old Town Square, its famous castle and Charles Bridge, the city did not disappoint. It offered diverse and delightful architecture; cobblestone streets; clean and neat pathways for exploring the city on both sides of the river; and a long and interesting history.

One of the oldest synagogues in Europe is in Prague.

I thought I’d share a few of my favorite “looking up” photos to either pique your interest (if you’ve never been) or help you recall your own memories of what is known as the City of a Hundred Spires.  –post by Judy