Natural History - Mount Etna

The volcano giveth and the volcano taketh away. That is an extremely abbreviated version of the story of Mount Etna, the extremely large, extremely active and extremely important volcano in eastern Sicily.

I spent eight days in Sicily last September, traveling from Palermo in the northwest to Catania in the east, and being awed by Monreale and Agrigento in between. I'll write more about Monreale and Agrigento in future posts. Today I'll focus on Etna, which looms over the city of Catania.

Mount Etna, September 2016.

Mount Etna, September 2016.

Mount Etna is huge. It is an active volcano - one of the most active in the world, the experts say - and covers more than 450 square miles. It has been growing for about 500,000 years! In the photo above, you can see Etna blowing smoke from one of her mouths. In the foreground is lava rock from an eruption this century. A month before I was there, a new "active pit crater" was seen by one of the volcanologists who keep a very close eye on Etna every day.

During my recent visit (as part of a tour with the wonderful company Classic Journeys - I'll also blog in the future about whether to visit Italy independently or as part of a tour - I've done both), we hiked Mount Etna. Not to the top - the volcano has an elevation of almost 11,000 feet - but up one section. Along the way, we came across the remains of a hotel buried by lava during the eruption I mentioned earlier. You can see the hotel roof in the photo below. Fortunately, no one died in that eruption. Still, the volcano taketh.

Mount Etna, September 2016.

Mount Etna, September 2016.

We also came across a local man in September who had been gathering porcini from the fertile land for his lunch. About 25 percent of Sicily's population lives on the slopes of Mount Etna. The volcano provides not only the benefit of fertile land to Sicilians but also the benefit of tourism (all we hikers need to eat, use the restroom, buy souvenirs, etc.). The volcano giveth.

A Sicilian man shows off the porcini he gathered from Mount Etna for his lunch, protected on his walk home by a cover of ferns. September 2016.

A Sicilian man shows off the porcini he gathered from Mount Etna for his lunch, protected on his walk home by a cover of ferns. September 2016.

As we hiked up the volcano, it was hard to believe anything could grow on the black expanse we covered. It was even harder to believe that Etna is active nearly every day - not spewing-lava active but churning active (I think of it as a stomach growling).

About two months after walking on Etna, I read this on a website dedicated to volcanoes: "Etna volcano update: Signs of unrest increase." Etna, the site said, "is showing signs of becoming more active again: Over the past few weeks, emissions of gas, steam and sometimes perhaps some dilute ash from the main vent ... have increased. In addition, intermittent weak glow can be detected from the same vent at night."

Volcanologists say the first documented Eta explosion was in 1500 B.C. Its most powerful was in 1669. Its longest in the late 1970s (it lasted for more than a decade), and its latest began in 2007. I hope Etna does not erupt soon but I know it will again, changing forever the landscape that I and my fellow travelers were lucky enough to see and experience in September.       -post by JG


Italy is not just home to active volcanoes. As a documentary shared by an Italian acquaintance in Albuquerque notes, Italy "is a turbulent land, geologically." In the past year, a series of earthquakes has shaken the country. The Apennines region experienced half a dozen tremors from August to October. Hundreds of people died, thousands of others were left homeless and historic buildings were destroyed. Earlier this month, a luxury hotel in the region of Abruzzo was hit by a 120,000-ton avalanche. Twenty-nine people were killed. If you love Italy like I do, and want to help with relief efforts, you can donate to: the Italy Earthquake Relief Fund started by GlobalGiving, the Italian Red Cross, or a rebuilding fund started by the National Italian American Foundation.

Hotel Del Coronado - Not Your Ordinary Beach Vacation

The Hotel Del Coronado (affectionately known as the Hotel Del) is no ordinary hotel. Built in the late 1880s, it is one of the few remaining classic beach resorts in the United States and is listed on the register of National Historic Landmarks. You just don't find wooden buildings of this size, or of this elegance, at the seaside any more. With its red roofs, turrets, balconies and curves, it is truly the grand dame of beach properties.

The Del comes complete with a fascinating history of visits by past presidents and Hollywood legends, the filming of iconic movies (photos abound of Marilyn Monroe during the filming of "Some Like it Hot" in 1958) and its very own ghost (the lovelorn Kate, who died by her own hand in 1892 and still wanders the Del today). The earliest visitors paid less than $3 per day for room and board. I can promise you that today's prices far exceed that amount, making this a luxury destination indeed.

View of the beach from my room - nice to wake up to this view each morning.

View of the beach from my room - nice to wake up to this view each morning.

On top of all this, the Del has long stretches of sandy beach, palm trees, beautiful vegetation, a variety of restaurants, a spa, pools and lots of possibilities for "retail therapy."

Seaside vegetation.

Seaside vegetation.

The main pool at the Hotel Del.

The main pool at the Hotel Del.

I recently had the good fortune of staying here, tagging along with a friend who had a business meeting at the hotel. I had a chance to soak up the history, wander the grounds, explore Coronado Island and, most of all, to enjoy walks along the beach with my toes in the water, listening to the sound of breaking waves and marveling at it all.

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The sunsets here are spectacular. The sun sinks quickly into the ocean, so mind your weather report when it says that sunset is at 5:08 p.m. because by 5:15, it will be over except for a long lasting post-sunset glow. But oh those few minutes of watching the sun sink into the sea, from the balcony of my room, glass of wine in hand, are magic!

Sunset from the balcony at Hotel Del Coronado.

Sunset from the balcony at Hotel Del Coronado.

Everything about this hotel is special - the setting along a beautiful coastline, the mild temperatures (60 degrees in January), the rooms with balconies overlooking the water, the beautiful wood-paneled main lobby with its unique vintage elevator (complete with a uniformed elevator attendant), the gardens, the attentive staff. There is even a sand castle artist who builds intricate and beautiful chateaux on the beach in front of the hotel.

Sand castle on the beach at Hotel Del.

Sand castle on the beach at Hotel Del.

The only downside I found was that the cost puts a stay here out of reach for so many of us (me included - remember I was a tag-along on this trip). Room rates start at around $400/night soaring up to more than double that. The cost of food is also high (think $36 for a fish taco lunch, a $37 breakfast buffet, $6 for a cup of tea, $6 small scoops of ice cream). Though expensive, the food was really good, especially the extensive breakfast buffet with made-to-order omelets, waffles and pancakes, fruit choices from berries to kiwi and melon, a bagel station complete with lox, pastries galore, and really good coffee (a must for me). 

I did find several good restaurants off the hotel property with much more reasonable prices. Two of my favorites were Clayton's Coffee Shop (a throwback '50s diner where the waitresses wear flowers in their hair, the jukebox plays classic songs and the red chairs swivel at the counter). This is a great place for breakfast or lunch - servings are huge and shareable.  

The counter at Clayton's diner.

The counter at Clayton's diner.

For lunch, happy hour or dinner, I especially liked Brigantine - a great seafood place with fresh fish, an oyster bar and some really good margaritas.

Fish tacos with coleslaw and house-made chips at the Brigantine.

Fish tacos with coleslaw and house-made chips at the Brigantine.

What a treat a few days here were. I never thought of myself as a "California girl" but who knows, maybe I have a little bit of beach in my soul after all.

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Hotel Del Coronado   hoteldel.com

Sunny with Lots of Ocean

January is the longest month - the holidays are over, I'm home from Italy, and spring seems so very far away. The days are short and the weather can be cold and gloomy. This makes January the perfect time for a mid-winter weekend getaway; somewhere warmer, somewhere fun, and somewhere not too far away from my home in Albuquerque. So I recently headed west with a friend to California and the small beach town of La Jolla.

La Jolla views are incomparable.

La Jolla views are incomparable.

There is much to love about La Jolla. To start with, there is all that ocean. To a land-locked desert dweller like me, the ocean is pure magic. Add in a mid-January temperature in the low 60s, bright sunshine, oceanfront parks and walking paths, blooming flowers, interesting architecture, and an all-around vibe that is part causal beach town and part upscale living, and you've got the makings of a great  weekend. Oh, and did I mention the ocean? The sound of the waves is soothing; watching the waves break over the rocky coast is hypnotic. This is my kind of therapy!

Blue water and flowers along the rocky coast. 

Blue water and flowers along the rocky coast. 

An artist paints en plain air along the coast in La Jolla.

An artist paints en plain air along the coast in La Jolla.

My hotel for the weekend was the Grande Colonial, which was charming and pretty with a vintage elegance. It's a short walk to the ocean and the path that stretches from the Children's Pool and Seal Beach to Scripp's Park and La Jolla Cove. This is a rocky coastline interrupted with small sandy beaches and waves breaking in dramatic fashion. It's easy to do low-key R&R here. My weekend was spent walking, watching birds soar overhead, laughing at seals that barked on the rocks and dashed playfully in and out of the water, browsing in the local shops, watching people, and playing the "which house would I buy if I had millions of dollars" game. Mine was right on the ocean with a pretty cottage garden and a gazebo with an endless sea view.

It's easy to spend time watching the seals.

It's easy to spend time watching the seals.

Any good vacation has to include great food, right? Luckily, there were plenty of choices for casual meals with good but not fussy food. Some favorites were:

The Cottage, appropriately named for its setting in a former beach-style house, serves breakfast, brunch and lunch to locals and tourists alike - inside or on the beautiful outdoor patio. It's popular and there can be quite a wait (no reservations taken) but it is absolutely worth it! Sunday brunch of crab Benedict with avocado and a roasted tomato hollandaise was so good that we went back again the next day for breakfast. Not to be missed are the berry smoothies and the lemon ricotta blueberry pancakes. Our server was friendly and helpful and we sure appreciated her advice that most dishes were big enough to share (you would know what an understatement this was had you seen the order of French toast delivered to the family at the next table).  

A half order of crab and avocado Benedict at The Cottage. The kitchen was happy to split this.  

A half order of crab and avocado Benedict at The Cottage. The kitchen was happy to split this.  

Light and lemony ricotta pancakes with blueberries. Pancake perfection.  

Light and lemony ricotta pancakes with blueberries. Pancake perfection.  

Brick and Bell. This may be the cutest coffeehouse on the west coast, a tiny local spot with a nice patio and a pastry case full of temptations. It wins my vote for best raspberry scones ever.  

Brick and Bell restaurant.

Brick and Bell restaurant.

Puesto. It's not a trip to La Jolla without fish tacos. The ones here were fresh and tasty with a light batter, a bit of chile-infused cream, fresh lime and blue corn tortillas. A new flavor for me was the side of esquite - grilled corn cut from the cob and flavored with lime, chile and a soft queso. It's big enough to share, but trust me, you won't want to. 

We just don't get fish tacos like these at home in New Mexico.   

We just don't get fish tacos like these at home in New Mexico.   

The bar at La Valencia hotel. You don't have to stay in the hotel to have a drink in the bar with one of the best views in La Jolla. Sip away and daydream as you look out over the water.   

The bar at La Valencia is gorgeous ...

The bar at La Valencia is gorgeous ...

... but the view is even better! 

... but the view is even better! 

A weekend in La Jolla goes by quickly, but the net relaxation effect makes it feel like you've had a month's rest.  

-post by JB

Near dusk in La Jolla.

Near dusk in La Jolla.

The Allure of Florence

The last time I stayed in Florence, in April 2016, I was certain I would not return. The crowds of tourists crammed into the compact historic center of the Tuscan capital, were too much for me. Eight months later, I was back. Florence's beauty was too much for me to resist. 

Florence is home to some 380,000 residents. It lures 42 times that many visitors each year! Those 16 million tourists come to see Michelangelo's David, the Ponte Vecchio spanning the River Arno, Brunelleschi's dome on the Duomo, the 45 halls of art in the Uffizi Gallery Museum, and many other works of art, history and culture.

The Duomo in Florence, April 2016.

The Duomo in Florence, April 2016.

But everywhere you look in Florence, there is beauty. Much of it can be seen for free - all you have to do is walk and look, look, look. Near the train station is Santa Maria Novella church, a Gothic beauty. Across from the Duomo are the jaw-dropping doors of the Baptistery of St. John. The Duomo itself is a feast for the eyes: colorful, dramatic, huge.

Lampposts in intricate and intriguing ironwork punctuate street corners, and elaborate gates serve as sentries at the entrances of private courtyards. Statues abound, from the "fake" David in front of Palazzo Vecchio (the "real" David is in the Accademia) to the "lineup" of famous Italians outside the Uffizi.

A gate at the entrance of a courtyard in Florence, April 2016.

A gate at the entrance of a courtyard in Florence, April 2016.

Everyone, of course, should see David and the other famous sites of the city. But I also like to have time simply to "be" in Florence. I always find something new to marvel at, whether it be from the Renaissance or yesterday. During my recent visit, modern-day street art that said, "Be kind to each other," was followed just half a block away by a religious statue ensconced in glass on a street corner. A few blocks later, a shop window featured a display of gorgeous gold and red pitchers. If you rush to visit only the "must-sees," you miss so much of what Florence has to offer.

A shop window display, Florence, December 2016.

A shop window display, Florence, December 2016.

If you're in Florence in the winter, you will find thinner crowds and shorter lines. If you are there when most of those other 16 million tourists arrive, I recommend escaping to Oltrarno - south of the Arno, where there are fewer people but plenty of great restaurants, artists' studios and shops - or to the Boboli Gardens for a stroll among greenery and fountains and sculptures. That way you'll want to return. There's no point in fighting it. One simply cannot stay away from Florence's splendor. 

                                                                                                                                 

 -post by JG

A street corner, Florence, December 2016.

A street corner, Florence, December 2016.

An Apartment in Lucca

Judy at the  front door to the apartment on Via Pelleria in Lucca.

Judy at the  front door to the apartment on Via Pelleria in Lucca.

I wrote this post while sitting at "my" kitchen table in Lucca.  I love having an apartment here, it's key to living like a local and having an experience that goes beyond tourist and crosses into part-time resident. Don't get me wrong, I will happily stay in a hotel for a shorter visit and I have a favorite hotel here where I feel wonderfully at home and spoiled (look for a hotel review in a future post). But for a longer stay I prefer an apartment with three main considerations in mind: location, price and amenities (including a really functional kitchen, comfortable bed, washing machine, and some outdoor space).  

I find that renting through an agency rather than from an individual owner suits me best - it provides an on-the-ground contact person in case of problems, also agencies represent multiple properties and so can help me find just the right one, plus I like to build an on-going relationship with agents since I spend a fair amount of time here and am a frequent renter. I've worked well with two agencies in Lucca: Apartments Lucca (I have an apartment already booked through them for spring) and Lucca Holiday Homes, where Judy and I stayed in December/January. 

 Entry to apartment on Via Pelleria, just inside the front door, with a pretty private garden beyond the gates. 

 Entry to apartment on Via Pelleria, just inside the front door, with a pretty private garden beyond the gates. 

Here are some more glimpses of my most recent apartment (December 2016/January 2017).  It's pretty special and, since I was sharing space and costs with Judy, bigger and more elegant than those I rent when I'm here on my own. It's in a beautiful old building, originally a large private home, now made up of several apartments. Ours was on the second floor, up about 36 steps. The apartment had a beautiful bright great room with a galley kitchen, generous dining area, cozy sitting area, and French doors to a small terrace. 

 Can you feel the sun streaming in through the windows, even in cold January?  

 Can you feel the sun streaming in through the windows, even in cold January?  

The galley kitchen is well-equipped and the cabinets stocked with cookware and dishes.

The galley kitchen is well-equipped and the cabinets stocked with cookware and dishes.

One of several options for brewing coffee in the apartment. There were also two Mokas and an American-style electric drip coffeemaker.  

One of several options for brewing coffee in the apartment. There were also two Mokas and an American-style electric drip coffeemaker.  

An assortment of cups found in the kitchen - caffe americano, cappuccino, or espresso. 

An assortment of cups found in the kitchen - caffe americano, cappuccino, or espresso. 

Sitting area with two comfortable sofas.

Sitting area with two comfortable sofas.

Master bedroom with one queen and one twin bed.  

Master bedroom with one queen and one twin bed.  

Second bedroom with twin beds.  

Second bedroom with twin beds.  

One of two bathrooms, both with large showers

One of two bathrooms, both with large showers

This apartment was located inside the walls of Lucca, in the northwest part of the old city, a short walk from Piazza San Michele, Piazza San Salvatore, and the many shops on Via San Paolino. The area was quiet and felt more residential than touristy. A perfect home-away-from-home in Lucca. Now, if only I could stay a little longer!                 -post by JB

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Contact Information: 

Apartmentslucca.com        Alba Pracchia  

luccaholidayhomes.it         Debora Del Sonno