Tasty Bologna
There are many reasons to love Bologna, Italy - Medieval architecture, portico-lined streets, the stunning Neptune Fountain, history, art, music-filled churches. It’s a fascinating city. But Bologna is perhaps best known as “La Grassa” (the fat), a nickname that reflects its abundance of good, make that great, food. On a recent trip I combined exploring the beauty and history of Bologna with indulging in the local food.
Bologna is the birthplace of pasta ripiena (filled pasta) as well as the famous ragù alla Bolognese, a pasta sauce that begins with a soffritto of celery, carrot and onion and is rich with meat (beef, veal, or pork), a bit of tomato paste, and some wine. It’s the perfect topping for tagliatelle or other wide pasta and is often used in the local lasagna as well.
What a treat to be able to buy fresh pasta ripiena at a local market.
Bologna and the surrounding areas (think Parma and Modena) are also the center of the universe for prosciutto, other types of salumi, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and the best balsamic vinegars. The shops are overflowing with these products - I could have used an extra suitcase to bring home all the items I wished to buy. Bologna has its own local wines too. The slightly fizzy red Lambrusco and white Pignoletto go perfectly with the rich and sometimes salty foods served in the area.
Of course, a city with good food must also have great markets, and Bologna is no exception. The small market stands and shops in the old city are centered in the area known as the Quadrilatro, just off Piazza Maggiore. This area is a riot of colors, shapes, sounds, and smells. Vendors along the streets sell fresh veggies, fruit, meats, cheeses, pasta, prepared foods, and an ocean’s worth of fresh fish. A painter would need a whole palette of color to portray everything on display.
There are also flower markets, cafes, bakeries and wine shops nearby. It really is a cook’s dream. For a food-loving tourist, beginning the day with a coffee and pastry, followed by a morning of shopping, leading right up to lunch at one of the many fabulous small restaurants is a great way to spend the better part of a day. In addition to all the small stands, there is also the Mercato di Mezzo (an indoor food court) and an Eataly. The choices are endless.
The Piazza Maggiore area is perfect for people-watching and sitting for a morning coffee, a light lunch, or an afternoon aperitivo. My travel companion and I had a lovely lunch at Signorvino, which carries Italian wines from all regions.
They served a wonderful plate of mortadella and prosciutto along with some focaccia and a glass of Lambrusco (choose a small or a large pour). There is also a daily pasta special, which on this day was a orecchiette with pesto and burrata. Sit here and enjoy a relaxed lunch with a view of the piazza and the Basilica of San Petronio.
Choosing where to have dinner in Bologna was easy for me - I couldn’t wait to return to a restaurant I had loved on a previous visit, the Osteria Santa Caterina. Known for its wide selection of salumi and cheese (each appetizer plate is named after one of the old city gates) they also serve wonderful local dishes, including pastas, soups, meats and simply the best melanzane parmigiana I’ve ever eaten. They know their wines too, and I absolutely trust their recommendations. It’s a friendly, lively, local spot - just the sort of place I love. Don’t these photos of their dishes make you hungry?
Another plus is that the Osteria Santa Caterina is near the place that has become my go-to Bologna hotel, the Palazzo Trevi Charming House. It’s in the Porta Saragozza neighborhood, just a short walk to the center of the Medieval heart of Bologna.
This small but picturesque terrace at the Palazzo Trevi encouraged me to do some writing while sipping an afternoon tea.
The rooms are comfortable, some have small terraces or patios, and the breakfast is substantial. A friendly, family-run small hotel, it is just a bit out of the tourist center in a quiet part of town. Perfect!
Lest you think all I did was eat on my trip, I also found time to visit my favorite spot in Bologna, the Basilica of Santo Stefano. This complex of several small churches, chapels, and a cloister is a must-visit spot for me on any trip to Bologna (for more on this unique and fascinating basilica see The Seven Churches of Santo Stefano, August 14, 2017). After visiting the basilica, I suggest a stop for a gelato. Just up the street from Piazza Santo Stefano is the Cremeria La Vecchia Stalla - try the fior di latte buffala (buffalo milk) gelato. Trust me on this, it’s the richest, creamiest gelato ever and is absolutely delicious (and a big thanks to my friend Shari for recommending it to me) I dove into mine so quickly I didn’t even get a photo.
The whimsical interior of Cremeria La Vechia Stalla
One last note - the friend who accompanied me on this visit to Bologna was - gasp - a vegetarian (or nearly so). While she didn’t share my love for plates of salumi or bowls of meat-filled pastas, she had no trouble finding fresh and tasty dishes to enjoy and cheeses to sample. After all, even vegetarians eat pasta, drink wine, and enjoy gelato! -post by Joanne
Contacts:
Osteria Santa Caterina. Via Santa Caterina 43, 40123 Bologna
Signorvino Bologna Piazza Maggiore 1, 40124 Bologna
Palazzo Trevi Charming House Via Frassinago 31, 40123 Bologna. website: www.palazzotrevi.it
