The Windmills of Kinderdijk

A river cruise along the Rhine River, from Amsterdam in the Netherlands to Basel in Switzerland, passes through beautiful scenery and stops in fascinating places.   Over the next weeks I will write about some of those stops, beginning today with one of my favorites – Kinderdijk.

The Viking Baldur sailed out of Amsterdam at 11 pm on day one of the cruise and arrived in Kinderdijk the next morning just after breakfast.  It was an easy walk from the spot where the boat docked to this unique UNESCO Heritage site, famous for its 19 historic windmills.

 Any visit to Kinderdijk begins with the story related to its name which means “Children’s Dike” in Dutch.  The story goes something like this – way back in the year 1421 a huge flood brought destruction and many deaths to the area.  A little boy went to check the dike (not the famous Hans Brinker but a different boy altogether).  The boy found a cat atop a cradle floating in the flood waters.  Inside the cradle was a baby girl.  And so, we have the name Children’s Dike.   Another version of the story pre-dates the flood and is a bit more specific.  The baby was named Honigje. She had been cared for by a midwife and her cat named Dubbeltje. It was this cat who saved the baby from flood waters.  The legend was explained in the Viking Daily, an on-board newsletter provided each day with tidbits of information about the various stops along the cruise.

Viewing the windmills from a small canal boat was an optional excursion at this stop.

The local tour guide for our morning at Kinderdijk was a very tall Dutch gentleman who had grown up in the area.  If you’ve never experienced Dutch humor and frankness, then I will simply say that it is an added bonus during the visit.  We all had a laugh when he warned us about not stepping in goose droppings by saying “watch out, there’s a lot of goose sh*t around”.  Oh, those plain-spoken Dutch! We tried not to laugh, really we did, but it was impossible!

 The visit began in the gift shop where a model of the area provided an explanation of how the windmills worked together to pump water from the below-sea-level lands up to the drainage canals.  This was also made clear by the fact that our ship, which was docked on the river, sat well above the lower lands of Kinderdijk.   Attached to the gift shop building was an area with old tools along with huge mechanical equipment – pumps that later were added to make the process of moving water much more efficient that doing so with the windmills alone.  Of course there were also souvenirs to purchase.

 A small educational building provided a chance to listen as our guide demonstrated the wooden structures used in the oldest windmills.

At Kinderdijk the windmills date back to the 1700’s, among the oldest in the Netherlands.  Our guide also discussed how the windmills work and the changes that occurred over time as construction changed from wood to iron. This brief introduction made the next stop, a visit to the interior of a windmill, much more valuable.

The windmills at Kinderdijk functioned to keep the land from being submerged. They also provided a home for the keeper of the windmill and his family.

The day of our visit was quite cold and windy. Despite that, the small home inside the windmill was cozy.  The table sat beside a pretty window, the wood stove stood ready to cook a meal, and the china cabinet was full of pretty painted pieces.  The bed, tucked inside an alcove in the single main room of the home, looked warm and inviting.  There is something intriguing about the glimpse into a very different way of life that a visit to a furnished home provides.  

 The more adventurous in our group climbed the ladder into the upper workings of the windmill while some of us kept our feet on the ground exploring the big wooden wheels that drove the windmills and seeing the sails (blades) of the windmill from below.  

An interesting tidbit – the position of the sails also served to send messages, including warnings of imminent visits from Nazis during World War II. 

This early spring cruise was a bit too early to see the famous Dutch tulips of the area.  Instead, there were lovely yellow daffodils in bloom, tall graceful grasses, budding trees and some pretty dramatic skies. 

 The windmills of Kinderdijk made for a perfect first stop on this week-long cruise.  Coming up, stops along the Rhine in Germany and France.

A Rhine River Cruise with Viking

There are castles to be seen when cruising the Middle Rhine Valley.

Say the word “cruise” and you are sure to get a reaction.  Some people love cruises and plan most of their vacations around an ocean or a river voyage.  Others swear they aren’t “cruise people” and would never book one. I fall somewhere in between.  I enjoy independent travel that immerses me in the culture of a place and allows me to do my own thing at my own pace.  Most of my trips will be independent ones. Planes, trains, and cars usually get me where I want to go.

Still, it can be fun to explore some areas on a tour, especially places where one doesn’t speak the language or those that don’t draw us in for a longer stay. And spending a few days on the water can be a relaxing way to vacation.

I am not a fan of those huge ocean-going ships, both for environmental reasons and because the idea of a floating city with thousands of people doesn’t appeal to me. I don’t need casinos, pools, or glitzy shows when I travel either. As for evening gowns and formal nights - forget about it! Smaller ships offering well curated but casual experiences and meaningful cultural insights are more my style.  I have found that river cruises provide just the right balance. And I have really enjoyed sailing with Viking.

Quaint villages, green landscapes, and calm waters along the Rhine.

Cocktails in the Viking Baldur lounge - a great way to catch up with friends old and new.

The Viking longships, which cruise the European rivers, are relatively small. They carry just under 200 passengers. This allows the ships to dock close to city centers and right alongside small villages. Getting on and off the boats is a snap and allows for either joining a guided walk or for independent exploration in the towns along the river.

A river cruise is also a great way to travel with a group of friends. The choices of activities allow each group member to select different excursions and the layout of the Viking longships provides plenty of space to cozy up with a book or a drink or a deck chair. But then there is plenty of opportunity to spend relaxed time together on board - at meals, in the lounge, over a card game, or socializing in one of the outdoor spaces.   

My recent cruise with Viking, along the Rhine River, gave me the chance to spend a week with friends from New Mexico. We met up in Amsterdam and spent time catching up and sharing a week of fun explorations as we sailed from Amsterdam to Basel along the Rhine river.

Sunset along the Rhine as seen from the Viking Baldur during an evening of sailing.

One of the many castles in the Middle Rhine Valley

 Another advantage – no packing and unpacking!  My roommate and I settled into our cabin on day 1 and visited 4 countries in 8 days without ever having to pack and unpack again.  And though that may sound like a lot of places in a short time frame, the time spent sailing from one location to the next was either during meals on board, in the evenings during social hours in the lounge, throughout the night, or on days when the passing scenery was so spectacular that watching from a relatively slow-moving boat was wonderful. 

Each day is different on a river cruise. There are new cities to explore, led by knowledgeable local guides.  Stops includes an introductory walking tour followed by free time to explore on your own.  There are slower paced groups for those who might want a more relaxed pace with less standing and more opportunities to sit awhile. All of the general walks are included in the cost of a Viking cruise along with some optional, reasonable priced, excursions as well.

Rudesheimer coffee served in traditional cups was an afternoon treat after an on-board demonstration of how to make it.

On-board activities link to the places visited and include history and cultural information about the various regions, demonstrations of local crafts or cooking, and port talks which highlight the interesting things to see in each town. 

On the Rhine cruise we made Rudesheimer coffee on the day we stopped near that city (yum).

The chefs also gave a cooking demonstration, showing us how to make an authentic French Flammkuchen, a type of flat bread with toppings (but don’t call it pizza!) as part of our stop in Strasbourg.  The chefs were assisted by a volunteer passenger and everyone received a copy of the recipe to take home. The demonstrations was followed by a tasting - delicious!

Pretzels and beer kicked off a night of German themed dishes.

The meals also reflect the food of the regions we visited.  German night was a highlight on this voyage.  No worries though – if the local cuisine doesn’t appeal there are always some standard options available including salmon, steak or chicken. There are always vegetarian choices as well. Wine and beer are included at both lunch and dinner.

I enjoyed tasting the local delicacies – even raw herring at breakfast.  That was part of the fun as were the daily descriptions of dinners given by the head chef.  Good food, from sumptuous breakfasts complete with a made-to-order omelet bar, to tasty lunches and beautifully presented dinners, added to the enjoyment. Getting to know other passengers at meals was an added bonus. Our cruise companions were an interesting and well-traveled group.

Oh - and did I mention deserts? Servings were modest enough to encourage even the most calorie conscious to indulge!

 The Viking longships offer a range of cabins – from small cabins at the water line, to larger cabins with balconies, and a few large suites.   Of course, there is no reason to spend a lot of time in one’s cabin.  On board is a library, a bar / lounge, an outdoor terrace at the front of the boat, and an open upper deck. The upper deck has lounge chairs, a walking track, a small putting green, an herb garden and fantastic views.

A view from my stateroom balcony, near Cologne.

A few general things to keep in mind when planning a river cruise. First, pack light.  There are no formal nights.  Days are quite casual and there is no pressure to wear a different outfit every day - mix and match is the way to go.  A few scarves work wonders to dress up or modify an outfit.  Men don’t need ties or jackets.  Dinner dress is “nice, casual”.   Slacks and shirts or sweaters work for cooler season cruises along with rain gear.  Capris, slacks, sundresses, lightweight shirts in summer. Walking shorts are ok for excursions but discouraged in the dining room.  As for shoes – comfortable walking shoes are a must, leave those heels at home!

 If going all carry-on on an overseas flight works for you then that’s ideal.  If not, then a small carry-on with a change of clothes and anything essential is a must.  It never fails that on any cruise there are passengers whose bags are delayed, sometimes by several days.  This is an airline issue, not a cruise company issue.  But without at least one change of clothes, essential medications, and toiletries, a trip can be ruined. Placing an Air Tag device in checked bags is helpful for locating lost luggage.

Amsterdam, where the Rhine River Cruise began. This part of town was within walking distance of the ship dock.

It is best to arrive in the departure city at least one day, preferable two, ahead of a cruise. Between flight delays, European strikes, and cancelled flights, arriving a couple of days early is good insurance that you won’t miss a day or two of a cruise.  The ship does not wait for late arriving passengers! Plus, those departure cities are fun to explore. The two days we spent in Amsterdam before my recent cruise was a great way to begin the trip. 

While the ship itself is a wonderful part of the river cruise experience, the real stars of the voyage are the cities along the way.  Over the coming weeks I will post more about each of the cities we visited. Lots of photos to come !

Note:  I am not affiliated with Viking Cruises in any way and was simply a paying passenger on this cruise.