An Italian Deli in Albuquerque

Sometimes I crave Italian foods when I'm home in Albuquerque - chief among them good pizza and tasty salumi (Italian cold cuts). Here in New Mexico we don't have the large Italian communities found on the east and west coasts of the U.S., nor do we have a "Little Italy" neighborhood, but that doesn't mean that good Italian food is not to be found. It just takes a little research! And who could complain about doing some food research when it involves taste testing and good friends?

M'tucci's Italian Market & Deli Albuquerque, N.M.

My favorite place to buy Italian foods in Albuquerque is a small spot called M'tucci's Italian Market & Deli. It is unique in that they cure their own meats in-house, make their own sausages and pastas, and bake their own breads. They also have a tempting array of imported cheeses, olives, marinated artichokes and peppers, along with imported Italian staples like canned tomatoes and flour. All this in a small but charming storefront that feels remarkably like an Italian mercato. Their slogan is "little place, huge flavors" and that is a good reflection of the quality of their products.

House-curing in process at M'tucci's

Fresh baked bread and dried pastas

I recently heard that M'ucci's installed a new pizza oven - a huge, stainless mammoth of an oven. And since February 9 was National Pizza Day, what better time to take that new pizza oven for a spin? With that in mind, I met a couple of friends for lunch and had one of the best pizzas this side of Italy.

The new pizza oven at M'tucci's Market and Deli

All of the pizza varieties sounded good but we settled on the "artisan" pizza. Pizza at M'tucci's starts with their own tangy sourdough based pizza crust. This was hands down the best pizza crust I've had since my last trip to Italy. It was topped with a light coating of a flavorful San Marzano tomato sauce, just the right amount of mozzarella, crispy house-cured pancetta, capicola and thin slices of proscuitto di Parma. Talk about love at first bite. Happy National Pizza day to me!

In addition to pizza, the menu includes soups, salads, charcuterie plates, sandwiches, pastas and desserts; I've enjoyed several of these dishes on earlier visits - all tasty. For a more extensive menu, M'tucci's Italian Restaurant is just a few steps away. I'll save that review for another time (hint: it's delicious).

Lunch was delightful and I couldn't leave without taking home some salami (soppressata and finocchiona), cheese (calciocavallo), and marinated artichokes. That just might hold me for while.       -post by JB                                                                                                                      

Contacts: M'tucci's Italian Market & Deli, 6001 Winter Haven Road NW, Albuquerque, NM           (505) 503-7327   website: mtuccis.com

Wandering among the Ancients in Agrigento, Sicily

Under the Mediterranean sun in Sicily, not far from the sea, is the city of Agrigento. It has a lot of modern buildings, elevated roadways teeming with traffic and a population of about 60,000 people.

The Temple of Concordia in the Valley of the Temples from afar, September 2016.

Just down the hill is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Sicily, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the best-preserved Greek temples in the world. The juxtaposition is typical of what is often found in Italy: yesterday and today standing side by side, the past often overshadowing the present. I once heard the former premier of Italy, Matteo Renzi, say that Italy is more than a museum. And while that is true, the museum aspect of Italy is the best there is.

Fragments of Doric columns at Greek temples in the Valley of the Temples, Agrigento, Sicily.

The reason so many people travel to Agrigento is the nearby Valley of the Temples. The area was home to the ancient Greek city of Akragas, which was estimated to have a population of more than 200,000 before 406 B.C. Much of the ancient Akragas is unexcavated. But at the Valley of the Temples are seven Greek temples in the Doric style that were built in the 6th and 5th centuries.

The sun starts to set behind the Temple of Concordia, September 2016.

Most of the temples have only pieces still standing but the Temple of Concordia is nearly intact. I was told that's because it was converted to a Christian church at some point, which spared its stones from being quarried for other uses. Even the temple fragments are impressive. On a recent visit to Sicily, I walked among them in awe. Visitors are allowed to be within feet of the massive structures that rise majestically from the ridge on which they were constructed. (That's right - the temples really are not in a valley despite being called the Valley of the Temples.)

The Mediterranean Sea can be seen in the distance from the Valley of the Temples.

Because of how well preserved the Temple of Concordia is, it was easy to imagine life all those centuries ago. I'm sure my vision was more glamorous than life actually was then. But with the sea in the distance and the sun starting to set in the west behind the temple,  it was hard to see it any other way. I also understood, again, how grateful I am to Italy for preserving all this history. Italy is, indeed, more than a museum but the museum aspect of it is such an important part of our world.
-post by JG

Falling in Love with Lucca

Why Lucca? That is a question I hear a lot. Why do I keep going back to this one Italian cittadina (small town) every year? Why do I hold a space for myself there, adopting it as my second home, falling more in love with it every time I visit?

Lucca, as seen from atop the Torre Guinigi.

Some history: A chance encounter in an Italian train station pointed me toward Lucca. A fellow passenger described a wonderful town surrounded by a wall - a wide park-like wall where people biked, walked and socialized. A town with few tourists and amazing charm. That sounded intriguing and so I put Lucca on my "must-see" list. I had no idea at the time that it would be so many years before I would actually get there.  

The wall that surrounds Lucca.

Fast-forward 15 years - by this time I had made several short trips to Italy and I was looking for a different, longer, more authentic experience. I remembered Lucca from that earlier conversation and had also recently seen a TV show filmed there - complete with video of those walls. I also thought it would be fun to spend some time studying the Italian language in Italy and my research led me to Lucca Italian School.  It was definitely time to check out Lucca! 

Lucca's famous tower - the Torre Guinigi - and the characteristic rooftops of Lucca.

In 2011 I spent four days in Lucca to "try it on for size" and see if it would be a good spot for a future, longer stay. For me, it was love at first sight - and I like to think that Lucca fell a little bit in love with me too for it has certainly welcomed me back with open arms ever since. I knew immediately that I would feel comfortable (and safe) there, even traveling solo. Several things contributed to that instant feeling. For starters, Lucca is small in size. The entire centro storico (central part of the historic city) is contained within the walls, which are about 2.5 miles in circumference. The walls really are the Central Park of Lucca, full of vibrant activity. Lucca is a walkable city, it takes 15 to 20 minutes to walk from one corner of the town to the opposite corner. Every step of the walk takes you past historic buildings, fountains, statues, beautiful churches, and cafes that invite you to linger over a cappuccino. What a combination of sights and experiences! Add in the musical sound of the Italian language, the warmth and friendliness of the people, the enticing scents drifting out of bakeries and restaurants, and the magic of sitting in a piazza for an aperitivo on a warm summer evening. Falling in love with Lucca was easy.

The back of the Basilica of San Frediano as seen from the wall

I have returned to Lucca each year since that first visit in 2011. I spent a month there in 2012, my first experience with solo travel and with studying the Italian language in Italy. At the time I thought that month would be a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, but I was quickly drawn into the magic of Lucca and found myself planning a next trip well before the current one had ended. With each new visit I have become more enamored. I love studying the language in a place where I hear it spoken all day, every day, all around me (not to mention that Lucca Italian School is an amazing place with amazing teachers - more on that in a future post). I love the solo travel experience and find it absolutely life-changing. I like living car-free, walking everywhere. I've made friends from all over the world with other students at the language school; friends I now connect with routinely throughout the year (thank you Facebook) and in person when we meet in Lucca each year. I feel at home in the shops and restaurants and have made friends there too. I love the serenity of the churches and the excitement of the many festivals. Lucca has truly become a second home for me, a place always in my heart, and I am counting the weeks until I can return. Until then, I will retrace favorite walks in my mind, cook Italian dishes, crank up the volume on some Italian music, and brush up on my language skills.

Aperitivo in Piazza San Francesco, Lucca.

 I hope that you too will plan a trip to Lucca in the future  - let's meet there for an aperitivo!

                                                                                                                                                          -post by JB

Contacts:      Lucca Italian School    www.luccaitalianschool.com

All That Glitters Is Gold in Monreale, Sicily

The poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe is quoted as saying, "To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all." It took me almost a dozen visits to Italy to finally see Sicily, and I'm actually glad I waited. Goethe may have believed Sicily was "the clue to everything," but I needed the rest of Italy under my belt to appreciate Sicily. (And by "under my belt," I am referring to what I've seen and learned in all my travels to Italy - not the food and wine I've consumed.)

The exterior of the Monreale Cathedral, Sicily, September 2016.

The history in Sicily is nearly mind-boggling: There is archaeological evidence of human activity on the island as far back as 12,000 B.C. Everyone from the Phoenicians to the Greeks to the Romans to the Vandals, Ostrogoths, Normans, Bourbons and others have left their fingerprints on the island that sits in the Mediterranean to the west of the Italian mainland's boot tip. Sicily became part of Italy in 1860, when Italy was unified.

Palermo, Sicily, September 2016.

Palermo is Sicily's biggest city. Just outside it is a town called Monreale that is home to one of the most stunning cathedrals in all of Italy. The Monreale cathedral is also an Italian national monument. The cathedral was started in the 12th century by William II after the Norman conquest and is considered a great example of Norman architecture. But Norman architecture doesn't hold a candle to the cathedral's interior, almost all of which is covered by glass mosaics on a background of gold. The beauty of the mosaics mixed with the gold stole my breath as I walked into the cathedral.

Monreale Cathedral, Sicily, September 2016.

Mosaic figures of Christ, St. Peter and St. Paul, along with depictions of Old Testament stories, captured not only my attention but my imagination. The work, the time, the talent, the patience needed to complete these masterpieces are unfathomable to me. The gold glistens. The colorful mosaics sparkle.

A mosaic detail, Monreale Cathedral, September 2016.

Once I could pull myself away from inspecting up close the tiny pieces of glass that are pieced together to form pictures, I was able to walk to the roof terraces over the cloisters. From there, the view is over the fertile valley all the way to the Mediterranean. So much manmade beauty inside; so much natural beauty outside. The Monreale Cathedral sums up Italy for me. -post by JG

The view to the Mediterranean Sea from the roof terraces of Monreale Cathedral, Sicily, September 2016.

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For information about visiting the cathedral, including hours, see http://www.cattedralemonreale.it

Agriturismo Cretaiole, or My Imagined Life as an Italian Farmer

I am by nature a city girl. I may grow some herbs and a few tomatoes, but more serious gardening is beyond me. I remember my Italian grandfather's vegetable garden in New York, and the taste of his fresh tomatoes and wax beans, but I figure that's why Mother Nature invented grower's markets - to give me the flavor without all the work. But a week on an agriturismo in southern Tuscany had me reconsidering - perhaps I had a bit of farm girl in me after all. I actually caught myself humming the theme song to "Green Acres" at one point, and that must mean something. 

Agriturismi (that would be the plural of the Italian word agriturismo) sprang up in the 1980s as the Italian government began subsidizing farmers who worked their land and hosted visitors on their property. The goal was to encourage farmers to continue agricultural work while developing an additional source of income. One of the first agriturismi in the Val d'Orcia was Agriturismo Cretaiole. The vision of its owner, Luciano Moricciani, was revolutionary at the time when locals (and even his own father) questioned if any tourist would really want to stay on a farm. But Luciano persisted, turning a run-down farmhouse into a place with charm and tons of local character. Today, Cretaiole is a magical spot, part working farm and part vacation destination. 

View over the valley toward Pienza from the kitchen window at Cretaiole

What makes Cretaiole so special? To start, it’s the Moricciani family – Luciano, son Carlo and daughter-in-law Isabella, along with their "right-hand woman," Carlotta. They are warm and welcoming, eager to share the history of their land, along with their knowledge of local customs and cuisine. Isabella expertly guides visitors to the special places of southern Tuscany - hill towns, restaurants, wineries, scenic drives - and also teaches the making of pici, the local pasta specialty. Carlo runs the vineyard, supervises the olive harvest and shares his considerable expertise about olive oil. Then there is Luciano, the padrone of the family. Luciano runs the family farm in Pienza, works with the grapes and olives, and finds time to visit with guests in the evening, arriving with wine, limoncello, grappa and music. Dancing with Luciano late into a warm Italian evening makes you feel like you really, truly belong to Italy. Essential to the team is the magic of Carlotta, who manages the day-to day needs of the visitors; whatever you need, Carlotta smiles and makes it happen. This is a hands-on family operation and that's a big part of what makes it special.

As an agriturismo, the heart of Cretaiole is the beautiful stone farm complex, which has been converted to apartments ranging from studios to three-bedroom units. There are courtyards and open spaces with views over the Val d’Orcia and of Pienza a short distance away. The large lawn is dotted with swings, lounge chairs, and comfy spots for reading, daydreaming, mingling, or just gazing at the surrounding beauty. The apartments are rustic Italian style (our front door opened with a big skeleton key) but with all the modern conveniences, including fully equipped kitchens, great bathrooms, and comfortable beds with lovely linens. Our kitchen was stocked with local products, including meats, cheeses, fruit, a bottle of wine (all part of the “dolce vita” package) along with other kitchen basics (coffee, olive oil, sugar, etc). The garden was planted with tomatoes, lettuce, fennel, zucchini, cucumbers, and onions - feel free to pick what you need! We cooked a memorable dinner with fresh pasta purchased in Pienza, a sauce made of onions and fennel and a salad made from garden ingredients. How do you say YUM in Italian? Che buono! It isn’t just about guest quarters though. The property is also a place of work with a vineyard and olive trees.  If you are lucky enough to be there during the vendemmia (grape harvest) in October, or the olive harvest in November, be sure to lend a hand!  

Entrance to apartment Il Granaio at Cretiaole

The location of Cretaiole, about 10 minutes outside of Pienza, makes it an ideal spot for exploring the many hill towns of southern Tuscany. Pienza itself is a delight. It’s a short drive from Cretaiole to Montepulciano, Montalcino, Monticchielo, and San Querico d’Orcia.  A car is a necessity, but the driving is easy, the scenery spectacular, and Isabella provides great driving directions. Should you get lost, just call Carlotta on the cell phone provided to guests.

If I close my eyes I can still picture it: a cozy fire in the big open fireplace warming a chilly morning, windows open to stunning views of the Tuscan countryside, the scent of good Italian coffee brewing in a Moka on the stove, grapes ripening in the fall sun, and a garden just waiting for me to pick plump ripe tomatoes for the night’s meal. Cretaiole really was my perfect Tuscan farm home, if only for one week.        - post by JMB

The kitchen / sitting area fireplace in my Cretaiole apartment

Contact:   www.cretaiole.it

Not to be missed:  a visit to the nearby La Foce gardens, hiking down to the Etruscan ruins on the Moricciani property, a massage under the olive trees, pici making with Isabella, tasting Cretaiole’s olive oil, wine and prosciutto along with a local pecorino cheese, sharing a limoncello with Luciano, a visit to Monticchielo with lunch at La Porta, tasting Brunello wines in Montalcino.