An Introduction to Verona

Travel poster from the 1930s

My idea of a perfect trip to Italy involves time spent in my home base of Lucca along with a visit to a place that is entirely new to me. On my latest trip, that place was Verona.

Verona, in the Veneto region of northern Italy, is less well known to visitors (at least to American visitors) than nearby Venice. The two cities have distinctly different characters and it's fun to experience both of them when visiting the Veneto region. Verona may not have Venice's famous canals, but it has a charm all its own and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most of the historic old town is nestled into a bend of the Adige River, with some of the old city lying just across the river.

Historically, Verona was a Roman settlement. It has a long history of rule by various invaders (Visigoths, Longobards, Venetians, as well as by France and Austria), all of whom influenced Verona's art, architecture, and culture. Parts of the city were destroyed over time - by floods, earthquakes, conquering armies and, most recently, World War II bombs. Fortunately, many reconstructions  maintained much of the structure and character of the old city.  It is still possible to see everything from Roman ruins to Medieval and Renaissance structures. But Verona is not just a living history museum; it is a thriving city combining history, tradition, and modern life (including some high-end shopping).

With just three days in Verona I barely scratched the surface, but I did find much to love about this historic, thriving city.

Some highlights:

The fountain in Piazza Bra with the Roman arena in the background

Piazza Bra and Piazza delle Erbe are  beautiful spaces, full of activity and history. Piazza Bra is remarkable for the beautiful arches that mark its entrance and the well-preserved Roman Arena (amphitheater), which dominates the piazza. The piazza is lined with cafes and includes a green space that provides a perfect oasis of calm in the busy square.

Piazza Erbe is the place to feel the city's Medieval vibe. It is a thriving marketplace and the busy hub of the old city. Here you will find beautiful old buildings, the tall Torre Lamberto, and the ornate Palazzo Maffei.

While these piazze are the two main squares, there are many smaller ones that are also lovely. In fact, I think the piazze of Verona deserve a future post of their very own!

Busy Piazza Erbe

The city of Verona, viewed from an opening in the Ponte Scaligero. 

The River Adige flows through the heart of the city. Its bridges (ponti), including the Ponte Pietra and the Ponte Scaligero, have interesting histories, great beauty, and provide wonderful views of the city. The river also defines the city boundaries and helps make Verona a very walkable city. 

Verona is full of arches. Some are grand portas (doorways) through old city gates, others are small and mark entry into a piazza or a small vicolo (lane). Strung from them often are stunning light fixtures or cascading plants, which give the city a graceful air. 

There were more interesting churches than I could see in a short visit. The two I visited - the Chiesa del Duomo and the Cathedral of San Zeno - were architectural masterpieces filled with fascinating art and history.  . 

Cathedral of San Zeno, Verona

I can't talk about Verona without mentioning the fabulous dining. There is great variety in the dishes found here, and lots of seafood. My friends and I had several fabulous meals, including grilled shrimp, delicate pumpkin-filled ravioli, and a fabulous guanciale di manzo (beef cheek). The local white wines were similar to those of Bologna (slightly fizzy Chardonnay and Trebbiano) and there were full-bodied reds too (Amarone and Valpolicella). And of course there is great gelato to be enjoyed! 

Fine dining at Ristorante Torcolo, Verona. 

That's just a snapshot of my quick visit to Verona - there is so much more to see and experience that I can't wait to return!   -Post by JB

Medieval Lucca

Porta San Gervasio, Lucca. 

At heart, Lucca is a medieval city. As you stroll through narrow streets lined with brick buildings and beautifully arched windows you literally walk through the shadows of medieval times.  

Among the structures dating from the Middle Ages are the 2 remaining medieval city gates, Porta San Gervasio and Porta Santa Maria di Borgo, along with many of the churches, including the cathedrals of San Martino, San Michele, and San Frediano.  

Dancers in medieval costume. 

An even stronger flavor of medieval life in Lucca can be experienced through its many festivals and reenactments. 

These events, complete with costumes and medieval accoutrements, celebrate major historical events, religious traditions, ancient political rivalries, and daily life from the end of the Roman period through the 14th century. Medieval history seems alive here.

As an example, the Lucchese still celebrate the liberation of Lucca from the control of Pisa - an event that happened in the 1300's!

Competitors in an archery competition. 

 On a recent Sunday afternoon, at the end of a weekend full of events for the Santa Croce celebration, I watched a medieval tournament that included costumed dancers, an archery completion (won by the team from the San Salvatore district), a drum and flag performance, and a costumed procession through the center of town. 

Each of these men carries an arco (bow) and freccie (arrows). 

The sight of the archers, with long bows and quivers full of arrows, along with costumed ladies, colorful flags, and the drumbeat of the musicians, all taking place against the backdrop of the Basilica di San Michele, brought this historical period to life for me. Spectacles like this are just one of the many reasons that Lucca draws me back, time after time.   post by JMB

I batteristi (the drummers) 

The Legend of the Volto Santo (Holy Face)

This painting, in the church of San Frediano, depicts the arrival of the Volto Santo, in an ox drawn cart, to Lucca. 

Italy is a country full of mysterious legends. This is certainly true in Lucca - there are legends about deals made with the devil, of a saintly housekeeper and her miracle, of stone pillars mysteriously bent but not broken, of rivers diverted by prayer. Not far from Lucca is a stone bridge supposedly built with help from the devil himself.  Fascinating!

​Perhaps the most important legend in Lucca is that of the Volto Santo (Holy Face), a wooden crucifix said to be carved by Nicodemus shortly after the resurrection of Christ. As the legend goes, Nicodemus carved the body of Christ, but fell asleep before carving the face. When he awoke, the face was miraculously completed. The crucifix was then hidden for some 700 years at which time it was discovered, loaded onto an unmanned ship, set to sea, and eventually landed on the coast of Italy. From there, a cart steered only by oxen brought the crucifix (another miracle) to Lucca where it has remained ever since. Many miracles have been associated with the crucifix and pilgrims traveling the Via Francigena, between Rome and Canterbury, often included a stop in Lucca to see the Volto Santo.

The Volto Santo crucifix, clad in gold vestements for the Santa Croce Festival, Lucca, Italy. 

 Today, this unique work of art is housed in a small gated chapel within the San Martino cathedral and has a dedicated celebration, the Festival of Santa Croce (Holy Cross), held every year in mid-September. This is the most important festival of the year in Lucca and during this time the Christ figure on the crucifix is dressed in gold vestments, including a gold crown, collar, belt, and shoes. It is also the one time of year when the gates to the chapel are opened, allowing people to pass through right in front of the crucifix. 

Candles light the buildings for the Luminaria di Santa Croce Festival. 

Luminaria light Piazza San Michele, Sept 2016.

The highlight of the Santa Croce festival takes place on the night of September 13th with a stunningly beautiful procession in which luminaria (candles) outline the windows and arches of the buildings along the route. The procession includes townspeople, priests and bishops, the misericordia and red cross, community leaders, school children, people in medieval costumes, musicians and singers. Many carry candles, torches, or other religious objects. There is also a special mass in the cathedral the following day.

The candle lit procession is spectacular to see.

I was fortunate to be in Lucca for this year's Luminaria di Santa Croce. Whether here for the history, religious significance, or sheer beauty of this event, it is a moving experience to witness a procession whose history reaches back to medieval times.              Post by JMB

Some of the marchers are dressed in medieval costume. 

Settling In

Via Pelleria - my current home in Lucca

The first few days after arriving in Lucca are all about settling in.

This involves getting used to a new apartment, often in a slightly different neighborhood than on previous visits, revisiting favorite places, reconnecting with friends, taking a slow stroll through town, and discovering the inevitable changes that have taken place since my last visit.

I enjoy the settling in process - making the transition from the me that lives in New Mexico to the me that lives (temporarily) in Italy. Being here for a long stay means that I have the luxury of slowly overcoming my jet lag, of taking time to reacquaint my ear (and my tongue) with the sound of the Italian language, and of adopting my Italian identity - here, they call me Giovanna. 

A view of the city from le mura (the wall), always one of the first places I visit on a return trip to Lucca.

I arrived here a few days ago and am now fairly well settled. I've unpacked and organized. I've stocked my apartment with groceries and caught up with some old friends. This morning I walked the short distance from my apartment to the ramp leading up to le mura (the wall which surrounds the historic city) and made the easy 20 minute walk to the school where I will study Italian for the next 6 weeks. Although I am definitely not a superstar when it comes to learning a new language, there is something very special about studying Italian in the place where it was born - here in Tuscany - and then getting to use it as you go about daily life.

Walking on le mura (the wall).

The tower with the trees on top is the Torre Guinigi, a famous landmark and symbol of the city. 

As I wandered around today I was reminded of how beautiful this town is with its classic Italian architecture, its towers and piazze, and its wide wall full of bicyclists, walkers, runners, and endless vistas.  For now, this is home, and I'm delighted to be a part of it all.

I'll be experiencing (and writing about) many things while I'm here in Italy, beginning with the festival of Santa Croce which I'll write about next week. For now, here is a sampling of some of the views I found as I walked along le mura this morning.      Post by JMB

Biking the wall is a popular activity in Lucca. 

Piazza Santa Maria, a good place to rent a bike or a 4 wheeled surrey. 

A beautiful unrestored building as seen from le mura (the wall). 

Falling in Love with Lucca

Why Lucca? That is a question I hear a lot. Why do I keep going back to this one Italian cittadina (small town) every year? Why do I hold a space for myself there, adopting it as my second home, falling more in love with it every time I visit?

Lucca, as seen from atop the Torre Guinigi.

Some history: A chance encounter in an Italian train station pointed me toward Lucca. A fellow passenger described a wonderful town surrounded by a wall - a wide park-like wall where people biked, walked and socialized. A town with few tourists and amazing charm. That sounded intriguing and so I put Lucca on my "must-see" list. I had no idea at the time that it would be so many years before I would actually get there.  

The wall that surrounds Lucca.

Fast-forward 15 years - by this time I had made several short trips to Italy and I was looking for a different, longer, more authentic experience. I remembered Lucca from that earlier conversation and had also recently seen a TV show filmed there - complete with video of those walls. I also thought it would be fun to spend some time studying the Italian language in Italy and my research led me to Lucca Italian School.  It was definitely time to check out Lucca! 

Lucca's famous tower - the Torre Guinigi - and the characteristic rooftops of Lucca.

In 2011 I spent four days in Lucca to "try it on for size" and see if it would be a good spot for a future, longer stay. For me, it was love at first sight - and I like to think that Lucca fell a little bit in love with me too for it has certainly welcomed me back with open arms ever since. I knew immediately that I would feel comfortable (and safe) there, even traveling solo. Several things contributed to that instant feeling. For starters, Lucca is small in size. The entire centro storico (central part of the historic city) is contained within the walls, which are about 2.5 miles in circumference. The walls really are the Central Park of Lucca, full of vibrant activity. Lucca is a walkable city, it takes 15 to 20 minutes to walk from one corner of the town to the opposite corner. Every step of the walk takes you past historic buildings, fountains, statues, beautiful churches, and cafes that invite you to linger over a cappuccino. What a combination of sights and experiences! Add in the musical sound of the Italian language, the warmth and friendliness of the people, the enticing scents drifting out of bakeries and restaurants, and the magic of sitting in a piazza for an aperitivo on a warm summer evening. Falling in love with Lucca was easy.

The back of the Basilica of San Frediano as seen from the wall

I have returned to Lucca each year since that first visit in 2011. I spent a month there in 2012, my first experience with solo travel and with studying the Italian language in Italy. At the time I thought that month would be a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, but I was quickly drawn into the magic of Lucca and found myself planning a next trip well before the current one had ended. With each new visit I have become more enamored. I love studying the language in a place where I hear it spoken all day, every day, all around me (not to mention that Lucca Italian School is an amazing place with amazing teachers - more on that in a future post). I love the solo travel experience and find it absolutely life-changing. I like living car-free, walking everywhere. I've made friends from all over the world with other students at the language school; friends I now connect with routinely throughout the year (thank you Facebook) and in person when we meet in Lucca each year. I feel at home in the shops and restaurants and have made friends there too. I love the serenity of the churches and the excitement of the many festivals. Lucca has truly become a second home for me, a place always in my heart, and I am counting the weeks until I can return. Until then, I will retrace favorite walks in my mind, cook Italian dishes, crank up the volume on some Italian music, and brush up on my language skills.

Aperitivo in Piazza San Francesco, Lucca.

 I hope that you too will plan a trip to Lucca in the future  - let's meet there for an aperitivo!

                                                                                                                                                          -post by JB

Contacts:      Lucca Italian School    www.luccaitalianschool.com