Lucca In the Year 1369

Italians have long memories, especially when it comes to historic events and rivalries. The Lucchese are no exception. Each spring they celebrate several long-ago events - World War II Liberation Day and the feast of Santa Zita, for starters. One unique local celebration recalls the year 1369, when the city of Lucca gained its liberty from its most hated rival - Pisa (not by war, but by declaration of the Emperor Charles IV, in exchange for a large sum of money). Today’s rivalry with Pisa mostly involves soccer and the claim to who has the best city to visit or live in, but in 1369, achieving freedom from domination by a rival city state was huge. After that, Lucca fought hard to maintain its independence from all rivals, especially Pisa and Florence, 

Fierce ladies - each with an arco lungo (long bow)

So, just how is this major historical event celebrated? Picture Medieval costumes, archers with long bows and cross bows, drummers and flag throwers. Add in city and church officials reading proclamations and lots of spectators,locals, tourists, and wide-eyed children, all watching history recreated in the square in front of the cathedral of San Martino, and you have an exciting and photo-worthy event. 

Lanciatori di bandiera (flag throwers) - a crowd favorite as they toss their flags high into the air

The celebration of Lucca’s liberation from Pisa, on the Sunday following Easter, is one of my favorite annual events and one that, for me, says welcome to spring in Lucca, a city where history comes alive.  

-post by JMB

Balestrieri with their cross bows (balestre)

The sounds of drums is a big part of the festival. These batteriste (drummers) come in all ages. 

Medieval Lucca

Porta San Gervasio, Lucca. 

At heart, Lucca is a medieval city. As you stroll through narrow streets lined with brick buildings and beautifully arched windows you literally walk through the shadows of medieval times.  

Among the structures dating from the Middle Ages are the 2 remaining medieval city gates, Porta San Gervasio and Porta Santa Maria di Borgo, along with many of the churches, including the cathedrals of San Martino, San Michele, and San Frediano.  

Dancers in medieval costume. 

An even stronger flavor of medieval life in Lucca can be experienced through its many festivals and reenactments. 

These events, complete with costumes and medieval accoutrements, celebrate major historical events, religious traditions, ancient political rivalries, and daily life from the end of the Roman period through the 14th century. Medieval history seems alive here.

As an example, the Lucchese still celebrate the liberation of Lucca from the control of Pisa - an event that happened in the 1300's!

Competitors in an archery competition. 

 On a recent Sunday afternoon, at the end of a weekend full of events for the Santa Croce celebration, I watched a medieval tournament that included costumed dancers, an archery completion (won by the team from the San Salvatore district), a drum and flag performance, and a costumed procession through the center of town. 

Each of these men carries an arco (bow) and freccie (arrows). 

The sight of the archers, with long bows and quivers full of arrows, along with costumed ladies, colorful flags, and the drumbeat of the musicians, all taking place against the backdrop of the Basilica di San Michele, brought this historical period to life for me. Spectacles like this are just one of the many reasons that Lucca draws me back, time after time.   post by JMB

I batteristi (the drummers)