Seduced by Italian

It was always the language. There are many things to love about Italy, but when people ask me what I first fell in love with, the answer is: the language. Before I ever set foot in the country, I fell in love with Italian.

The Pantheon in Rome

The Pantheon in Rome

On my first trip to Italy, I visited what travel books call "The Big Three": Venice, Florence and Rome. Before I went, I wanted to learn a bit of the language. I bought the obligatory "traveler's Italian" tapes and a book from a bookstore (this was before you could download lessons on the Internet) and started studying one night after work. That night led to the next and the next and the next. Studying Italian became an obsession. For me, the full-bodied musicality of the Italian language is as seductive as the country's beautiful people, landscape and art.

The first city I visited in Italy was Venice. Staying at a small hotel near Piazza San Marco, I awoke the morning after my arrival and headed to the breakfast room. I greeted a young waiter with a hearty "Buon giorno. Com'e sta?" and actually saw the man's eyes light up when he heard me speak Italian - even though I only spoke four small words. I felt so proud, so worldly, so Italian. The waiter answered with a fast-paced string of several sentences that left me wide-eyed and stammering a somewhat embarrassed, "Oh, no, no, no, no - that's all I can say." Instead of being annoyed, he gave me a gracious smile and asked - in English - if I wanted a coffee or cappuccino. The conversation left me feeling a bit foolish. But it also gave me an idea of what a connection I would be able to make with people in Italy if I could speak their language.

Along with the architecture, history, music and food of Italy, the language seduces.

Along with the architecture, history, music and food of Italy, the language seduces.

The next morning, I awoke, opened the windows in my room and listened to two Italian men talk on the street below. I had no idea what they were saying, yet I could have listened to the melodic conversation all day. On every trip to Italy, part of what I enjoy is the Italian language soundtrack I get to hear. And as my ability to speak the language has improved, I find that just having a brief conversation in Italian with a train station clerk or waiter brings me sheer joy.

Florence was among the cities I visited on my first trip to Italy.

Florence was among the cities I visited on my first trip to Italy.

I have studied Italian on my own and with wonderful Italian tutors in New Mexico. Last year, I studied Italian in Italy for the first time. I went to the Lucca Italian School. What fun! What wonderful teachers! What interesting fellow students! (Look for blog posts about the school by Joanne in a few weeks.) I'm heading back this year and non vedo l'ora (I can't wait).

-post by JG

Falling in Love with Lucca

Why Lucca? That is a question I hear a lot. Why do I keep going back to this one Italian cittadina (small town) every year? Why do I hold a space for myself there, adopting it as my second home, falling more in love with it every time I visit?

Lucca, as seen from atop the Torre Guinigi.

Lucca, as seen from atop the Torre Guinigi.

Some history: A chance encounter in an Italian train station pointed me toward Lucca. A fellow passenger described a wonderful town surrounded by a wall - a wide park-like wall where people biked, walked and socialized. A town with few tourists and amazing charm. That sounded intriguing and so I put Lucca on my "must-see" list. I had no idea at the time that it would be so many years before I would actually get there.  

The wall that surrounds Lucca.

The wall that surrounds Lucca.

Fast-forward 15 years - by this time I had made several short trips to Italy and I was looking for a different, longer, more authentic experience. I remembered Lucca from that earlier conversation and had also recently seen a TV show filmed there - complete with video of those walls. I also thought it would be fun to spend some time studying the Italian language in Italy and my research led me to Lucca Italian School.  It was definitely time to check out Lucca! 

Lucca's famous tower - the Torre Guinigi - and the characteristic rooftops of Lucca.

Lucca's famous tower - the Torre Guinigi - and the characteristic rooftops of Lucca.

In 2011 I spent four days in Lucca to "try it on for size" and see if it would be a good spot for a future, longer stay. For me, it was love at first sight - and I like to think that Lucca fell a little bit in love with me too for it has certainly welcomed me back with open arms ever since. I knew immediately that I would feel comfortable (and safe) there, even traveling solo. Several things contributed to that instant feeling. For starters, Lucca is small in size. The entire centro storico (central part of the historic city) is contained within the walls, which are about 2.5 miles in circumference. The walls really are the Central Park of Lucca, full of vibrant activity. Lucca is a walkable city, it takes 15 to 20 minutes to walk from one corner of the town to the opposite corner. Every step of the walk takes you past historic buildings, fountains, statues, beautiful churches, and cafes that invite you to linger over a cappuccino. What a combination of sights and experiences! Add in the musical sound of the Italian language, the warmth and friendliness of the people, the enticing scents drifting out of bakeries and restaurants, and the magic of sitting in a piazza for an aperitivo on a warm summer evening. Falling in love with Lucca was easy.

The back of the Basilica of San Frediano as seen from the wall

The back of the Basilica of San Frediano as seen from the wall

I have returned to Lucca each year since that first visit in 2011. I spent a month there in 2012, my first experience with solo travel and with studying the Italian language in Italy. At the time I thought that month would be a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, but I was quickly drawn into the magic of Lucca and found myself planning a next trip well before the current one had ended. With each new visit I have become more enamored. I love studying the language in a place where I hear it spoken all day, every day, all around me (not to mention that Lucca Italian School is an amazing place with amazing teachers - more on that in a future post). I love the solo travel experience and find it absolutely life-changing. I like living car-free, walking everywhere. I've made friends from all over the world with other students at the language school; friends I now connect with routinely throughout the year (thank you Facebook) and in person when we meet in Lucca each year. I feel at home in the shops and restaurants and have made friends there too. I love the serenity of the churches and the excitement of the many festivals. Lucca has truly become a second home for me, a place always in my heart, and I am counting the weeks until I can return. Until then, I will retrace favorite walks in my mind, cook Italian dishes, crank up the volume on some Italian music, and brush up on my language skills.

Aperitivo in Piazza San Francesco, Lucca.

Aperitivo in Piazza San Francesco, Lucca.

 I hope that you too will plan a trip to Lucca in the future  - let's meet there for an aperitivo!

                                                                                                                                                          -post by JB

Contacts:      Lucca Italian School    www.luccaitalianschool.com