For Want of the Perfect Risotto

I have been craving a certain dish – risotto alla faraona - for exactly one year, ever since I returned from Italy last spring. Not just any risotto will do; it is the one from Gigi Trattoria in Lucca that I long for. It’s a straightforward dish with captivating flavor; tender short-grain rice cooked in a fragrant stock with little bits of guinea fowl throughout, served piping hot. Unlike so many risottos served in the United States it is not gummed up with cheese or overloaded with added ingredients. Forgive the oxymoron when I say it has a simple complexity of flavor. It is the perfect comfort food and there is nothing better on a cool or rainy spring day.

There are, however, two problems here. The first is distance - I live 5,702 miles from Lucca so I can’t exactly run out for dinner at Gigi Trattoria to indulge my craving. Second, Italian cooking is seasonal, which is only a problem in this case (otherwise it's one of the great strengths of food in Italy). Even though I’ve returned to Lucca twice since last spring, I have not found this dish on the menu. Imagine me, returning to my much-loved Gigi Trattoria in September after months away, all set to order my favorite risotto, only to find that it was simply not considered a fall dish and so not on the menu. Same story when I returned again in December – guinea fowl is an early spring food the trattoria owner told me; in winter one eats dark meats and heavier foods. Come back in spring!

A great pasta dish at Gigi Trattoria - but not my risotto!

The Torre Guinigi, topped with trees, as seen from the patio of Gigi Trattoria,

 

A craving that goes unfulfilled for so long grows and grows and becomes a monster. Is risotto addictive? I need this risotto, I dream about this risotto. I dare not try to recreate it as I know my attempts will simply not satisfy. I want the real deal, ideally eaten while dining fuori (outside) on the patio at Gigi Trattoria with a great view of the Torre Guinigi in Lucca. 

I have just arrived back in Lucca - will my craving finally be fulfilled?  Not yet as it turns out.  But I was told that come the first of April risotto alla faraona will be back on the menu.  Stay tuned.

-post by JB

Villa del Balbianello

My first glimpses of Italy were in the movies. Mostly I watched American or British films - "A Room with a View," "Stealing Beauty," "Roman Holiday," "Enchanted April." It was the quirky British film "A Month by the Lake" that really captured me. I don’t know if it was the unconventional romance, the pre-war time period, or the charms and accents of the Italian actors that first drew me in but it was definitely the unforgettable setting of Villa del Balbianello on Lake Como that most grabbed my imagination. Could such a place be real or was this just movie magic?

Vanessa Redgrave skipped down this staircase in the movie "A Month by the Lake" (1995). The villa has also been used in filming other movies, including "Casino Royale" and "Star Wars Episode II Attack of the Clones."

I saw the villa in person for the first time in 1996 from the deck of one of the boats that crisscross Lake Como. I wasn’t able to visit the villa on that trip, but I vowed to return someday. Someday came last fall when I had the chance to tour the villa and its spectacular gardens. No movie magic needed – the reality was even better than what was captured  on film.

Villa Balbianello as seen when approached by motorboat.  Note the boat landing, lower left.

The villa sits high on a spit of land jutting into Lake Como, just outside the town of Lenno. It is surrounded on three sides by water and on the fourth by dense woods. Could there be a more beautiful landscape? The villa dates to the 18th century, even earlier if you count the monastery that predates it, part of which was incorporated into the villa’s structure.

The villa incorporates a tower from an earlier Franciscan monastery, seen here through the trees above a beautiful carved balustrade that winds its way through the terraced gardens.

It is thanks to the most recent owner, Count Guido Monzino, that this stunning property is open to the public. It remains much as it was at his death in 1988, giving visitors a peek into the home of the larger-than-life Monzino, an adventurer and explorer. He loved the villa so much that he chose never to leave – he is entombed on the grounds. I like to believe that he continues to enjoy the pleasure his home gives to all who visit.

A view toward the lake from the path that winds up to the gardens and loggia.

There are two ways to arrive at the villa. The first is by land, over a somewhat steep path. The second is by motorboat from the village of Lenno and this is what I recommend.  The drama of disembarking at the private boat landing and climbing the steps to the garden transports the visitor to an earlier age and a different, glamorous lifestyle.

The private boat landing at the villa.

The house is a marvel, complete with secret passageways, dramatic views, art, artifacts, and beautiful furnishings. I was most envious of the apartment within the villa, commanding one of the best views of the lake, which the Count designed as the private quarters of his mother (if my children are reading this, settling one’s mother in an apartment within a villa on Lake Como is a splendid idea).

Map room, loggia

Sitting room inside the villa

Rooms in the villa have quite a view

Without doubt the most stunning aspects of the property are the loggia, perched on a rise above the house with glorious views up and down the lake, and the terraced gardens with winding walkways lined with flower-filled urns, greenery, manicured trees, and beautiful statues, all with dramatic lake views.

Villa del Balbianello as seen from the lake. The three arches of the loggia, which are flanked by the map room and the library, lie at the top right of the photo. Both loggia rooms, as well as the interior of the villa, can be seen on a guided tour of the property.

One of many beautiful flower-filled urns which line the garden paths.

 The drama, beauty, and history of Villa del Balbianello make it a must-see on any visit to Lake Como. The villa, a Fondo Ambiente Italiano (FAI) property, is open from mid-March through mid-November (closed Mondays, Wednesdays, and some holidays). Please visit the official website for current hours and guided tour prices. And don't miss the gift shop!                                                                                -post by JB

Statues line the path up to the loggia.

Contact information:  http://eng.fondoambiente.it/beni/villa-del-balbianello-fai-properties.asp

Stepping Out in Italy: Music to My Ears

Soprano, alto, fine, forte, piano.

You can't have music without Italy and you can't have Italy without music. It's one of the things I love most about Italy. Because in Italy, people sing! They sing together in restaurants. They sing alone while walking down the street. They sing on key, they sing off key (though usually on). They sing loudly, they sing quietly. They sometimes hum, which is just wordless singing. And when they don't sing, they talk. And Italians talking is musical as well.

Flower petals in the shape of a musical clef in Lucca, Italy.

The first time I noticed this Italian penchant for singing, I thought, "If I walked down the street singing at home, people would think I was crazy." In Italy, singing in public is not only not crazy, it is part of the Italian charm, part of the Italian people's collective charisma, part of the culture. Every time I have traveled to Italy, I have experienced people singing. Once in Bellagio - it's called the Pearl of Lake Como and truly is a jewel of a town - I had to leave my hotel before 5 a.m. for the airport in Milan. The hotel staff was concerned about me missing breakfast because their morning service didn't start until 7 so they sent a tray of cereals, fruits and breads to my room the night before - carried to me by a handsome young Italian who practically skipped up the stairs singing.

An opera poster - music is part of the culture in Italy.

My first visit to Lucca in Tuscany included a tour of the city with a guide who would break into song while we walked from one stopping point to another. My second trip to Lucca included three separate encounters with people walking by themselves and singing tunes. In Agrigento in Sicily, I joined in when the table I was at requested the pianist play "Volare" and our Italian guide started belting out the lyrics. "Volare, oh, oh. Cantare, oh, oh, oh, oh ...."

Maybe I love that Italians sing in public because I have always loved to sing. "The Impossible Dream" from "Man of La Mancha" was a favorite when I was a kid.

In my house in New Mexico, I have a map of Italy made of old sheet music. You can't have music without Italy and you can't have Italy without music.

Maybe I love that Italians sing in public because I can't imagine life without music. I started taking piano lessons when I was 5. I didn't realize until more than 30 years later that's when I also started taking Italian lessons. So many musical terms are Italian words: adagio, lentamento, tempo! There are hundreds more. You'll also hear musical terms in other languages like French and German. But most are Italian. Italy was home to many early musical innovators. And music buffs tell us that at the end of the Renaissance, when the Baroque era was beginning, Italy was where the musical action was - and that's when a lot of the directional words started being used.

Maybe what I love about Italians singing in public is that no one finds it odd. Maybe what I love is that Italians seem to inherently understand what is important in life: family, food, friends, laughter, love ... music. Maybe what I love is that Italians live life out loud - whether they're singing or not. Most definitely what I love is that when I'm in Italy, I start singing too.
-post by JG
 

Leaving on a Jet Plane

Not too long ago I had one of those good news, bad news travel days. The good news was that I was on a plane headed to Italy. The bad news was that I was not-so-luxuriously settled in an economy section seat. On balance, the joy of going to Italy definitely outweighs the discomforts of a long-haul economy cabin flight. Plus, I had taken advantage of an unusually low airfare to book a last-minute trip - an unexpected bonus. An upgrade would have cost more than the price of the ticket. So, I'm not complaining and I doubt I'd get much sympathy if I were! Instead, I thought this would be a good time to talk about surviving an overnight, transatlantic flight in the crowded back of the plane.

Whenever possible I use the points accumulated on my credit card to purchase a ticket; this gives the advantage of decreased cost while still earning airline miles for the flight. Then, I use accumulated frequent flyer miles, along with the money saved by purchasing the ticket with credit card points, to upgrade to business class on the outbound overseas flight. Lie-flat seats, real pillows and comforters, better meals, and a bit of spoiling mean I arrive rested and ready for adventure after an overnight flight. But, there are times when I can't upgrade, either because an upgrade using miles + money isn't available or I simply don't have the extra money needed (if it comes down to a choice to upgrade now or buy a ticket for another trip, the future trip always wins). When that happens, it's important to plan ahead and find ways to make the economy class experience less stressful. Here are some strategies:

• If your airline offers it, pay for the extra leg room option.  Even better if you can get it for free based on frequent flyer status. Those four extra inches of legroom really do make a difference on a long flight.

United Economy Plus seating on my way to Italy, December 2016

• If possible, choose an exit row. The seat in front will have limited recline, which means you won't have someone's seatback invading your space. Plus, it often has a bit more leg room. 
• Use an app (for example Seat Guru) to research the best, and worst, seating options on any particular plane. Look for things like misaligned windows, fixed vs. moveable arm rests, proximity to bathrooms. Then, keep your own notes about plane configurations and seat preferences for future trips. Yes, I know this makes me a bona fide travel geek, but knowledge helps when choosing flights and seats.
• For me, an aisle seat is the best choice; it feels less confined and allows the freedom to get up and move around without stepping over, or waking up, a neighbor. If you are one of those lucky souls who sleep soundly on planes (like my father who once slept from just after boarding in Denver to touchdown in London) then the window seat may be a better choice, but I'll take the aisle every time.
• Stay comfy by wearing soft, non-binding clothes - not sloppy, just casual comfy. I'm a big fan of Chico's brand travelers, which look sharp, feel like PJs, and don't wrinkle. Leggings and a long tunic also look nice and wear well.  Dressing in layers helps to overcome a too hot or too cold plane.
• A good size pashmina or other wrap serves as a shawl for warmth and a blanket for sleep. I keep one rolled up in my travel bag and never fly without it, even in summer. I use the provided airline blanket for my lap or legs but near my face I want my own wrap, one I know is clean. Added bonus: after the flight a pashmina is a great fashion accessory.
• Bring a neck pillow - those thin little airline pillows in economy provide little to no support and can lead to waking up with a stiff neck. A good pillow is especially important when trying to sleep in an aisle seat as you won't have the outer wall of the plane to rest your head against. I know people who like the grain-filled neck pillows, but for me they are too bulky and heavy to carry; I prefer the inflatable type with a plush outer cover such as the Bucky brand pictured below.

An inflatable neck pillow that collapses into a small, flat pouch, is lightweight and stores easily.

• Once on board, change into a pair of slippers with good soles. I like the little folding ballet flat type.  Bare feet are not appropriate (very inconsiderate of neighbors) and socks alone are not a good idea, especially when making a trip to the overused lavatory, which often has a damp if not puddled floor. Yuck! Compression hose under the slippers are good and may help in preventing in-flight blood clots (along with staying hydrated, moving around, and leg exercises in-flight) as well as reduce swelling in the feet and lower legs.

Isotoner brand ballet flat slippers slide into a carry on, have a good sole, and are machine washable.

• Bring a good set of noise-cancelling headphones or earbuds. It's possible to test the Bose brand at many airport kiosks. They are worth the investment, especially for frequent travelers, and can be used with both the in-flight entertainment system or your own device.  Hint: Don't forget to charge them before your trip.

BOSE noise-canceling headphones (left) and earbuds (right).  The headphones are the "gold standard" for noise reduction in flight and are Bluetooth enabled; the earbuds are smaller, lighter weight and also provide good noise reduction.

• Music is my key to relaxation and sleep on board. Since my phone's music is in the cloud and not accessible in flight, I carry an iPod nano with my favorite music downloaded. The nano weighs practically nothing and fits in my earphone case or even in the smaller earbud case. I have my favorite songs for distraction (podcasts or audio books work well too) and a good selection of classical music for relaxation and sleep. 

The iPod nano with BOSE noise-canceling earbuds - small, lightweight, and it provides hours of music.

• Pack a nice snack (but no stinky foods). My go-to plane snacks are protein bars, pre-sliced apples, grapes, a wedge of Brie, some crackers, and a sweet treat, like a piece of shortbread. Airline food, especially in economy, is often unappealing, if not downright inedible. Having a stash of food that keeps well without refrigeration can be a life saver.
• To encourage sleep, avoid both caffeine and alcohol. While that glass of wine may make you sleepy at first, it's likely to interrupt your sleep down the road. Water is your best bet as an in-flight beverage.
• When ready to sleep, turn the TV monitor off and wear eye shades to block out light. Light is the enemy of sleep!
• Bring a book, magazine, or other diversion (print or electronic). Never count on the in-flight entertainment system (IFE) to keep you occupied; it's surprising how often they fail!   
• Whether or not to take a sleep medication in flight is a personal choice; some people find them helpful (include me in this group) and others find that they don't make a big difference or leave them with a groggy hangover. One caution - never take one for the first time in-flight. Always do a trial run at home a few days before travel to see how you respond.                                                           

With these strategies my recent flight in economy went smoothly despite a malfunctioning IFE, inedible airline pasta, a completely full flight, and a plane that started out much too hot but became much too cold during the night. I even got a few hours of sleep. And then I was in Italy. Perfetto!             -post by JB

Ponte Vecchio, Florence

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La Scuola Part Two: Students, Activities, Cooking

It was the second day of my very first week at Lucca Italian School (LIS). One of my classmates, an Englishman, invited me to join a group of students for lunch and to meet his friend from Denmark who he thought I would like. “Plus," he said, “at lunch we’ll get to hear your story.” I asked him what made him think I had “a story." "Oh," he replied, “everyone at LIS has a story."  And so it is.

Lucca Italian School

I often think of us, the students at LIS, as a cast of characters in a novel or play. The Englishman bought a house in the country outside of Pisa on a whim; cistern for water and no electricity or heat. The most important language skill for him was learning the words that would allow him to order furniture from a local IKEA over the phone. The Danish woman, now a good friend, is fluent in more languages than I can count, rides her bike everywhere, and knows the back stories of some of the most interesting characters in Lucca. A student from Germany, also now a good friend, is an adventurer - recently she posted photos of herself skydiving. How I envy her ability to jump in her car and drive to Lucca as she did last January when we met for dinner. I’ve met teachers, businessmen, nurses, violin makers, young “techies” with jobs at Google, American expats who’ve retired to Lucca, a charming south American couple now living in the U.S., a young divorcee looking for her “lui” (him), widows making their first solo trip abroad, young Belgians traveling through Italy for a year in a camper, a young Australian taking six months to figure out his work/life balance, a psychologist, flight attendants, retirees, and lively Italian Americans looking for their roots.  No shortage of stories there!

Pausa on the terrace at LIS                   Photo courtesy of Lucca Italian School, used with permission

With such diverse and interesting students, the time spent outside of the classroom is just as fascinating as the time spent in class. One of my favorite non-class activities is pausa, the LIS mid-morning break, when students from the various classes congregate and either head to a nearby bar for coffee or sit together on the school’s beautiful terrace. They swap stories, recount adventures, plan after school meet-ups, and, frequently, talk about when they might return to Lucca and LIS. Some of these students have become dear friends; all have enriched my life and I am thankful for Lucca Italian School for bringing us together.

At the very top of my list of favorite activities is the class called Speak and Cook Italian. This is a week-long course with language classes in the morning and culinary activities in the afternoons, including two days of meal preparation each followed by a big dinner. Eva is the cooking teacher at the school. How to describe Eva? She is a bundle of energy, fun, friendly, quirky in the best of ways, and a very, very good cook. With Eva at the helm you can count on hands-on participation in cooking, delicious flavors, and a wonderful meal.

Prepping for dinner

Pasta making

Appetizers to start the meal

In cooking classes at LIS I’ve learned to make a rolled breast of tacchino (turkey) stuffed with carrot, prosciutto, and frittata; a fragrant lemon-scented chicken; ravioli fatto a mano (handmade) stuffed with ricotta and spinach and another with asparagus and shallots; panna cotta with frutti del bosco (are you getting hungry yet?); and biscotti (almond cantuccini and a chocolate chip cookie flavored with vin santo), among other delicious foods. All were created alongside congenial classmates in a fun, relaxed atmosphere.

Ravioli filled with asparagus

Lemony chicken

Biscotti made with vin santo

And then there is the lasagna. Eva’s lasagna is nothing like the Italian–American lasagna with tomato sauce that I grew up eating. Her lasagna starts with fresh sheets of thin, silky pasta, a béchamel sauce, and a filling of chopped fresh artichokes sautéed with leeks. Picture our group of about 12 students, all in aprons, working around a large table in a farmhouse kitchen. Some are rolling sheets of pasta, others cleaning and chopping artichokes, one is stirring a thickening béchamel at the stove. Bottles of wine are opened. There is laughter, the sound of musical Italian mixed with the click of knives and mezzalunas. For me, this is foodie heaven. We socialize while the lasagna bakes and we continue making appetizers, salads, desserts. Then we eat – around a big table, delicious food, more laughter, a mix of Italian and other languages. A perfect evening, in a perfect place, with fabulous companions and wonderful food. What could be more Italian?

Artichokes for the lasagna

Lasagna

Wine tasting is part of the fun

One last word about the lasagna – after this big, long, multicourse dinner we realized that all the men in the group had disappeared. We found every single one of them in the kitchen, forks in hand, polishing off the leftover lasagna. It was that good.                -post by JMB