Holyroodhouse: A Palace Fit for a Queen

It’s been hard to miss the news out of England lately, even for those who aren’t typically “royal watchers”. From family drama to sadness about the death of Prince Phillip to a royal birthday, all eyes have been on The Queen. And no matter what we think about the life of royals (or if we think about them at all), we must admit that they have some pretty amazing real estate. All those palaces fit for a queen!

So much talk of England reminds me of the one royal palace I have visited - The Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh, Scotland. No dusty historical monument, Holyroodhouse is still The Queen’s official residence in Scotland. And though she only spends about one summer week per year there, it remains the site of royal functions and is an important part of the culture of Scotland. The palace anchors one end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, with the Edinburgh Castle at the other end and a world of interesting things along the way between the two.

The entry courtyard to the palace with its two towers at either end.

The good news is that, except for that one week per year when Queen Elizabeth visits, the palace is open to visitors. Well, at least in a non-COVID year it is. While the palace has been closed during the pandemic, it is has recently reopened with limited visitation (tickets must be purchased ahead of time). With that in mind, it seems timely to write about this interesting, beautiful, and historic place.

I visited the Palace at Holyroodhouse as part of a visit to Edinburgh for the Fringe Festival in 2019. I was traveling with two very British friends who said that they’d seen enough royal palaces to last them a lifetime, but I couldn’t pass up the chance to explore the palace, its gardens, and the museum. So while my friends went off to a Fringe Festival show, I headed to the palace.

This carving over the entrance to the quadrangle includes elements of Scotland’s Royal Coat of Arms

The guided tour inside the palace was fascinating and full of historic detail, murderous intrigue, and a healthy dose of royal comings and goings. It was fun to hear details such as “when The Queen visits, this is where she hosts visitors for lunch” or “in this room, the Italian Rizzio, private secretary to Mary, Queen of Scots, was murdered in the year 1566”. Was he Queen Mary’s lover? It is said her jealous husband ordered the murder. A 16th century drama with Scottish and Italian players - who doesn’t love a drama with a 16th century Italian twist?

Also interesting were the furnishings and many artifacts. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed in the interior of the palace, so other than this one view of the entry hall, all my photos are of the exterior. A good collection of interior photos can be found on the website of the Royal Collection Trust.

Such detail in this entryway. But the serious guard says no more photos allowed!

The gardens surrounding the palace are also lovely with long stretches of green lawn, trees, and flowers. Just imagine attending one of The Queen’s garden parties there. I’d have to step up my wardrobe, and add a hat and gloves, to be sure!

A glimpse of the gardens through this old iron gate

One of the most striking features is found outside of the palace - the ruins of Holyrood Abbey. The abbey dates back to the 12th century when it was founded by King David I. The legend is that he founded the abbey in thanks after he survived an accident in the nearby woods.

The abbey has been in ruins since 1768 when the roof collapsed. The parts still standing are beautiful, with stone walls, arches, and carvings. It is a place of quiet and stark grace with a fairytale-like soft light filtering through the missing windows.

After touring the palace and wandering through the ruined abbey and the well-tended gardens there was just enough time left for the small museum displaying art from the royal collection, a look in the gift shop, and lunch in the restaurant on the palace grounds (with some very tasty Scottish meat pie). This was a wonderful way to spend a late summer afternoon and a fascinating glimpse into royal life. With the palace beginning to reopen and long delayed travel planning now beginning, this is definitely a place to include if Scotland is on your travel list.

The Edinburgh Fringe Festival

Each August, the city of Edinburgh, Scotland, hosts something a bit wild called the Fringe Festival. Though there are other, more serious, festivals happening at the same time (books, art, performance, the military tattoo), it was the Fringe that seemed to call out my name.

I have to admit that the idea of this festival stretched my boundaries more than a little bit. I don’t like big crowds that much, generally avoid situations that seem chaotic, and rarely go to contemporary concerts anymore (though in my heyday I saw everyone from Janis Joplin to Grand Funk Railroad - I guess that dates me!). I am more “born to be mild” than I am “fringe-y.” Yet this festival sounded fun and I am newly committed to boundary stretching. Plus, I had never been to Edinburgh. So, when a friend proposed that we go, I didn’t hesitate. Sign me up!

Edinburgh Castle

Fish and chips, classic Scottish pub food

Edinburgh is about five hours from London by train from King’s Cross Station, traveling through pretty countryside and the northernmost towns of England. Crossing the Scottish border, there were views, not too distant, of the gray and cold-looking North Sea. A definite change from hot and sunny Italy in August.

Arriving at Waverley Station, in the heart of Edinburgh, it was a short walk through crowds of happy Fringe-goers to our hotel.

Along the way I had my first view of old Edinburgh, high up on the bluff, anchored by its formidable stone castle. We settled into our hotel (the very friendly Premier Inn Hub) and happily found that Rose Street, where the hotel is located, was mostly pedestrian and lined with good pubs, some of which provided great dining over the next few days.

Not quite knowing what to expect of the Fringe, we hadn’t booked any shows ahead of time. So, the first order of business was to pick up a detailed guide and explore what was available.

In the end we decided to book tickets for one show and then to wander along the street seeing teaser performances (snippets from some of the shows) and to watch buskers and other street performers, including jugglers, unicycle acts, singers, and fortune tellers. That allowed us to make spontaneous choices about what we wanted to see.

My English friends were excited to find a show by one of their favorite comedians, Paul Merton. I wasn’t sure if I would “get” his British humor but I was game to try. The show, by Merton and a small group of improv comedians, was fast moving, smart, irreverent, and laugh-until-you-cry funny. The Fringe was off to a good start and with so many options to choose from, the fun promised to continue.

The choices for musical performances seemed endless, and so many of the possibilities were intriguing. An acappella group from King’s College (All the King’s Men) provided energetic, harmonic fun and opportunities to sing along. A Leonard Cohen tribute performance was full of good music and told the stories behind famous and lesser-known Cohen songs. And, of course, along the streets we saw traditional Scottish bagpipes being played.

Wandering the Royal Mile, between Edinburgh Castle on one end and the palace of Holyroodhouse on the other, provided a chance to watch street performances, marvel at the costumes, move with the crowds, and absorb the incredible energy that is the Fringe.

The festival is amazingly well organized, the crowd is lively but friendly and safe - no violence, no excess drinking - and good fun for young and old. Edinburgh itself provides a lovely backdrop. Next time, I may even understand the language on signs, menus, and some of the slang expressions. They tell me it was English, but I’m not so sure.                       -post by Joanne

A street performance for the show Delicioso

For information on the 2020 Edinburgh Fringe : https://www.edfringe.com