Two Parts Italy

This painting, in the Church of San Frediano, portrays the arrival of the Volta Santo on an ox cart.

In Lucca, a city where legends and mysteries abound, one such tale surrounds a religious icon known as the Volto Santo (Holy Face). According to the legend, the crucifix with the body of Christ was carved by Nicodemus shortly after the resurrection. Nicodemus struggled to complete the face which was miraculously completed by angels while the sculptor slept. But that is only the beginning of the mysteries surrounding the Volta Santo.

Some 700 years later, a series of miracles took place as the crucifix went to sea on an unmanned ship, eventually landing on the coast of Italy. From there, a driverless ox cart brought the crucifix to Lucca where it was placed in the Church of San Frediano. After somehow disappearing from San Frediano, the crucifix reappeared near the Cathedral of San Martino. Another miracle or a case of ancient clerical mischief?

Miracle or not, the ancient wooden crucifix has been permanently housed in San Martino, Lucca’s main cathedral, ever since. Each September 13th Lucca celebrates the Volto Santo with the Festival of Santa Croce (Holy Cross) and a luminaria procession in which the historic center is bathed in candlelight while religious, civic, and historical groups make their way through town. It is a solemn and evocative event. During the celebration, the crucifix, which most years remains in its small chapel within the cathedral, is dressed in gold vestments. The crucifix itself is much too valuable, and too heavy, to be part of the procession. Instead, it is represented each year by a banner bearing its image and a huge cross made of flowers.

Prior to the restoration, the original colors were lost to environmental damage and repainting. Much of the expression of Christ’s face was dulled. The gold crown and collar are only placed on the crucifix during the Festival of Santa Croce each September.

Over time, the sculpture has changed in appearance. The original colors were lost to the effects of soot from candles, repainting, and waxing over the centuries, so that the entire body took on a dark appearance. The glass paste eyes had been painted over, losing much of their expression. There was damage to the wood of the cross and the body. Fearing that there would be continued deterioration, the decision was made to carefully restore the icon.

One of the first things undertaken was radiocarbon dating based on samples of the wood. Previously, it was believed that the Volto Santo was a 12th century piece, but carbon dating proves it to be even older – 9th century – making it one of the oldest wooden crucifixes in existence,

Perhaps the most important decision in the process was restoration was to create a laboratory within the church where the work, managed by the Department of Polychrome Wooden Sculpture at the Oficio delle Pietre Dure, would take place. This meant both that the valuable statue did not have far to move and that the public could watch the restoration process which required about 2 years to complete. It also meant that for the last couple of years the statue was not dressed in its gold vestments during the September Luminaria festival.

The restoration work took place in a laboratory built inside the cathedral. Slowly the original colors were revealed and restored. Photo from the website voltosantolucca.it

But all of that changed a few days ago. On September 13th of this year, restoration complete, the Volto Santo was revealed to the public. It has not yet been placed back in its small chapel as that structure is also undergoing restoration. Instead, it is now positioned upright in the restoration laboratory within the cathedral where it will remain until next summer. It is beautifully displayed and the lighting allows for appreciation of all the colors (which were determined by careful analysis of the existing traces of paint) and details. The face is especially remarkable. Before restoration the features were indistinct with a monotone color. Today they are much more lifelike and expressive. The colors and details of the robes and the crucifix itself are wonderful.

This carefully undertaken restoration, completed just in time for the 2025 Volto Santo celebration, is a modern day miracle and guarantees that this important and historic icon will continue to hold a special place in Lucca for centuries to come.

Many visitors - locals and tourists alike - came to see the restored Volta Santo on the day of the Luminaria of Santa Croce festival last Saturday.

As I write this, on September 13th, bells are ringing throughout Lucca and the luminaria candles are ready to be lit. It’s a good day to be in Lucca.

To see detailed photos of the restoration: voltosantolucca.it