Lucca by Candlelight, The Luminaria of Santa Croce

The start of theSanta Croce procession always includes a huge floral cross and the traditional banner with the image of the Volto Santo

It’s exciting to see a place or an event for the first time, and often just once is enough to satisfy a curiosity or longing for an experience. When I first moved to Lucca I believed that going “once around the sun” here would allow me to experience all the seasons, the traditional festivals, the holidays, and the special events that would take place throughout a year. And that a year would be enough to satisfy my living in Lucca experience.  Silly me.  I quickly realized that it would take much longer (and perhaps forever) for me get my fill of Lucca.

 Over time, I’ve learned that some of the best things are the events that are experienced on repeat - events and celebrations that I look forward to from year to year.  Whether it is the wisteria that bloom in spring, April’s Santa Zita Festival, a late summer Medieval event, the fall garden show, or the annual lighting of the Christmas tree, the anticipation of these familiar events never fails to excite me. They mark the rhythm of life in Lucca. 

The month of September brings one of Lucca’s most important events, the Luminaria of Santa Croce.  There is something magical about seeing the Medieval streets of Lucca awash in candlelight, hearing the chanting of prayers, watching the large floral cross that is at the head of each year’s procession, and seeing the devotion of so many people holding candles are they walk the streets of Lucca. It is a moving and unique event. 

The people lining the procession taking photos on cell phones reminds me that this is a present-day celebration and yet the feel is ancient, historic.  For many people it is the most important religious ceremony of the year.  For others it is a tradition and a cultural event.

Dignitaries and priests carrying the processional lanterns first gather on the steps in front of the Cathedral of San Frediano, where prayers begin the solemn procession. A large cross, made entirely of flowers, and a banner with the image of the Volto Santo are at the head of the procession. A variety of civic groups participate in the procession, each carrying a banner to show where they are from.

The restored Volto Santo (Holy Face) crucifix, with gold vestments only seen during the September event (photo from the internet)

This year was particularly important because after two years of restoration the Volto Santo crucifix, which is the reason for the festival, is finally back in place in the Cathedral of San Martino and dressed in his gold vestments.

Regardless of one’s beliefs, the luminaria procession is a hallmark of a Lucchese September.  And for me, it is one of my can’t-miss, go every year, take hundreds of photos, events.   Once was definitely not enough for me!  As September draws to a close, it is my hope that I will still be here in Lucca to see next year’s procession.  

For anyone who would like to come to Lucca for the 2027 version of the Santa Croce Festival, now is the time to begin planning.  It is not too early to reserve housing for this popular event.  And mid-September is a great time to visit Italy.

 For more on the history of this event see  https://www.twopartsitaly.com/blog/2017/9/16/the-legend-of-the-volto-santo-holy-face

The procession always includes people in Medieval costumes.

The Restoration of An Icon

This painting, in the Church of San Frediano, portrays the arrival of the Volta Santo on an ox cart.

In Lucca, a city where legends and mysteries abound, one such tale surrounds a religious icon known as the Volto Santo (Holy Face).  According to the legend, the crucifix with the body of Christ was carved by Nicodemus shortly after the resurrection.  Nicodemus struggled to complete the face which was miraculously completed by angels while the sculptor slept.  But that is only the beginning of the mysteries surrounding the Volta Santo.

Some 700 years later, a series of miracles took place as the crucifix went to sea on an unmanned ship, eventually landing on the coast of Italy.  From there, a driverless ox cart brought the crucifix to Lucca where it was placed in the Church of San Frediano.  After somehow disappearing from San Frediano, the crucifix reappeared near the Cathedral of San Martino.  Another miracle or a case of ancient clerical mischief?   

Miracle or not, the ancient wooden crucifix has been permanently housed in San Martino, Lucca’s main cathedral, ever since.  Each September 13th Lucca celebrates the Volto Santo with the Festival of Santa Croce (Holy Cross) and a luminaria procession in which the historic center is bathed in candlelight while religious, civic, and historical groups make their way through town.  It is a solemn and evocative event.  During the celebration, the crucifix, which most years remains in its small chapel within the cathedral, is dressed in gold vestments.  The crucifix itself is much too valuable, and too heavy, to be part of the procession. Instead, it is represented each year by a banner bearing its image and a huge cross made of flowers.

Prior to the restoration, the original colors were lost to environmental damage and repainting. Much of the expression of Christ’s face was dulled. The gold crown and collar are only placed on the crucifix during the Festival of Santa Croce each September.

Over time, the sculpture has changed in appearance.  The original colors were lost to the effects of soot from candles, repainting, and waxing over the centuries, so that the entire body took on a dark appearance.  The glass paste eyes had been painted over, losing much of their expression.  There was damage to the wood of the cross and the body.   Fearing that there would be continued deterioration, the decision was made to carefully restore the icon.

One of the first things undertaken was radiocarbon dating based on samples of the wood.  Previously, it was believed that the Volto Santo was a 12th century piece, but carbon dating proves it to be even older – 9th century – making it one of the oldest wooden crucifixes in existence,

Perhaps the most important decision in the process was restoration was to create a laboratory within the church where the work, managed by the Department of Polychrome Wooden Sculpture at the Oficio delle Pietre Dure, would take place.  This meant both that the valuable statue did not have far to move and that the public could watch the restoration process which required about 2 years to complete.   It also meant that for the last couple of years the statue was not dressed in its gold vestments during the September Luminaria festival. 

The restoration work took place in a laboratory built inside the cathedral. Slowly the original colors were revealed and restored. Photo from the website voltosantolucca.it

But all of that changed a few days ago.  On September 13th of this year, restoration complete, the Volto Santo was revealed to the public.  It has not yet been placed back in its small chapel as that structure is also undergoing restoration.  Instead, it is now positioned upright in the restoration laboratory within the cathedral where it will remain until next summer.   It is beautifully displayed and the lighting allows for appreciation of all the colors (which were determined by careful analysis of the existing traces of paint) and details.  The face is especially remarkable.  Before restoration the features were indistinct with a monotone color.  Today they are much more lifelike and expressive.  The colors and details of the robes and the crucifix itself are wonderful.   

This carefully undertaken restoration, completed just in time for the 2025 Volto Santo celebration, is a modern day miracle and guarantees that this important and historic icon will continue to hold a special place in Lucca for centuries to come.  

Many visitors - locals and tourists alike - came to see the restored Volta Santo on the day of the Luminaria of Santa Croce festival last Saturday.

As I write this, on September 13th, bells are ringing throughout Lucca and the luminaria candles are ready to be lit. It’s a good day to be in Lucca.

To see detailed photos of the restoration: voltosantolucca.it

This series of bells were set up in the piazza next to the Cathedral of San Martino and rang throughout the day of the festival.