An Ordinary, Extraordinary Day

May 04, 2017 by Joanne Bartram in Italy, Travel, Cooking, Lucca

"What do you do for six weeks all by yourself in Italy? Don't you get bored? Lonely?" I have to laugh when I hear these questions, because nothing could be further from the truth. It might help to describe a "typical" day here in Lucca.

On a recent morning I had breakfast at my apartment and then headed off to my morning class at Lucca Italian School (LIS), which starts at 9:15. The next four hours were spent studying Italian with my small class of five students (one New Zealander, one Australian, one Brazilian, one from the US Virgin Islands, and me).

A class in session at Lucca Italian School with my wonderful instructor Silvia.

Though we are different ages, nationalities, and have somewhat varied linguistic skills, we all feel that the lessons are "fatto su misura" (tailor made) for us. That this is true is because our instructor, Silvia, is perceptive, flexible, and very, very talented. We have quickly coalesced into a friendly and supportive group and today, over "pausa" (break) we made plans to go out to lunch together one day next week.

After a break of a couple of hours for lunch, I returned to school for an afternoon olive oil class with Antonella, who is both a language instructor and a Maestrod'olio.

We learned about the history of olive cultivation and oil production in Italy, especially in Tuscany and the area around Lucca (Tuscany is the No. 2 olive oil producing region in Italy, second only to Puglia). We talked about methods of olive oil production (both traditional and modern), the characteristics of a superior oil, as well as how to taste oils and evaluate color, scent, flavor, and uncover possible defects.

We did a comparison tasting of three oils (with apple slices to cleanse the palate between tastings) and then sampled all three in a typical Tuscan dish, accompanied by local wines, of course. The class was informative, fun, social, and we got to practice our Italian!

Although I usually eat dinners at home during the week, which gives me a chance to shop the local markets and experiment with preparing simple meals full of local flavor, this night I enjoyed dinner at a nearby restaurant - Osteria da Pasqualino Gubitosa (commonly known as da Pasquiale).

I'd heard wonderful things about the restaurant but this was my first time eating there, joining another student from LIS. It wasn't a typical Lucchese menu; the chef and the owner are both from southern Italy. It was fun to try something new, the pesce (fish) appetizer and risotto were exquisite, and the company was great.

Three-bite dark chocolate dessert at da Pasquale

Walking home, the sound of a jazz band playing at an outdoor cafe followed me as I wandered through quiet streets. A perfect end to an ordinary, extraordinary day here in Lucca.

Lonely? Bored? Not a chance!

-post by JMB

contacts:

dapasquale-lucca.com

luccaitalianschool.com

Primavera

May 01, 2017 by Joanne Bartram in Lucca, Travel, Italy

Statue of the goddess Spring, Palazzo Pfanner

If I were a musician, I would compose a song about primavera (spring) in Italy. I'd sing about the colors, the light, the scent of rain, the feel of the sun on my face and about a gentle season that brings both rain and warmth to nurture landscape and people. But I'm not a musician, and I can assure you that singing is not one of my talents, so I'll just try to describe a Lucchese spring with written words and pictures.

In the past couple of weeks I've watched trees sprout new growth and move into full leaf, lavender flower, and the ginestra (which we call Spanish Broom back home) bloom. Wild buttercups have bloomed along Lucca's wall and figs have appeared on trees along the Serchio river.

A field of wild buttercups along the wall in Lucca.

The most dramatic sign of spring here in Lucca is the appearance of the glicine (wisteria), which seems to go from dormant branch to full flower overnight. It spills over arbors, walls, terraces, and bridges. For me, wisteria will always be synonymous with spring in Italy.

Glicine, Piazza Parigi, Lucca

First to bloom was a beautiful wall of white wisteria just outside the church of San Giovanni - the scent was delicate and sweet, just like spring itself. Next came waves of violet wisteria throughout town, less scented but every bit as pretty.

Now, I've watched the wisteria blooms fade, replaced by the first roses, wild yellow buttercups, and pretty pots of flowers appearing on windowsills and terraces throughout Lucca. Though it's always a bit sad to see the wisteria go, I know that Lucca will continue to blossom throughout the spring and summer. I look forward to seeing the first hydrangeas in the gardens at Palazzo Pfanner, lemon trees in flower, and the jasmine on my patio bloom. It's hard to mourn the fading wisteria with all that promise ahead. -post by JB

The Breathtaking Beauty of the Cinque Terre

April 27, 2017 by Joanne Bartram in Travel, Italy

Too often, the word I need in Italian escapes me. But today I have exactly the right word to describe my visit to the Cinque Terre - mozzafiato. That first view, of colorful houses tumbling down hillsides toward the rocky coast and the blue, blue sea beyond is nothing short of mozzafiato, breathtaking.

I had just a single day to visit this unique part of Italy. The Cinque Terre lies along the eastern edge of the Ligurian coast where the sea begins to curve along the top of the Italian penisula toward the French Riviera. A century or so ago these were five remote fishing villages but today they are connected by boat, train, and scenic walking paths, making them a popular tourist destination. I was lucky to be there on a sunny spring day just before the season when the biggest crowds arrive. One day is not enough to thoroughly explore each of the towns that make up the Cinque Terre but it was definitely enough to give me a flavor for the area and convince me that I need to return!

I arrived in Manarola on a Saturday morning in early April with a full day free to explore. I chose to spend some time in Manarola, go by boat to Vernazza, and then return to Manarola for further exploration and to meet up with my group (from Lucca Italian School) for the return trip to our home base of Lucca. The other three towns, Riomaggiore, Corniglia, and Monterosso al Mare, would have to wait for another visit.

Rose Window in the Church of San Lorenzo

Manarola is one of the smallest Cinque Terre towns. It rolls down a steep hillside from the upper town square with the gothic Church of San Lorenzo and its bell tower across the central piazza. From there, it's a downhill stroll through a street full of charming and colorful houses, flowered terraces, streets lined with small fishing boats, terraced hills covered with grapevines, and small cafes and shops.

The main street in Manarola., lined with fishing boats.

The small shop Burasca is a good place to sample the arancello (similar to limoncello but made from oranges) and to shop for local wines and products.

There are many restaurants serving fresh local fish, even take-away places selling paper cones filled with fritto misto (mixed fried fish). Further down the hillside is the landing dock for the battello (boat) to the other Cinque Terre towns. An all-day "hop on, hop off" boat pass costs 25 euro, less for single tickets between just two towns.

The boat is a great way to see both the towns and the dramatic coastline. The approach from the sea provides those mozzafiato views - sheer cliffs, colorful houses dancing down the slopes, ancient towers, tiny harbors, a glance at Corniglia high up on the bluff, and views of the sea beyond. As the boat pulls into Vernazza there is a spectacular view of the castle ruins and an ancient tower, perched on high. It's not hard to imagine the pirate raids that occurred along this coast - the reason these defensive structures were built.

The sea approach to Vernazza and the remains of a defensive tower, now housing a restaurant.

Just around the corner from the boat dock lies Vernazza's small harbor with its fishing boats, a small spiaggia (beach), and a square full of cafes with brightly colored umbrellas and inviting patios.

Wandering through the town there are green shuttered houses on the hill, the intriguing church of Santa Margherita with its domed bell tower, a passage through an arch of rock to a small beachfront (marked with a "danger" sign, which didn't stop many people from entering), a tiny street side chapel, cafes, gelato spots, and many other shops. Near the train station is a billboard showing the damage done by the landslides and floods of October 2011. As mud and water came roaring down the steep hillside, the lower town and harbor filled with mud and debris. The damage was extensive and it's no small miracle that the town was rebuilt in a matter of a couple of years; today there is little obvious evidence of the destruction, though some of the trails between towns remain closed.

A table with a view at the Belforte restaurant in Vernazza, Italy

Returning to Manarola I had just enough time to walk back up the slope, buy some arancello, sample a local white wine, visit the church of San Lorenzo, and climb up to the parking lot to start the trip back to Lucca. Days like this I just have to pinch myself and feel so fortunate to have the opportunity for one perfect day in the Cinque Terra. Mozzafiato indeed. -post by JB

Sandra & L'Angolo Dolce

April 24, 2017 by Joanne Bartram

Today I went to the best pastry shop in Lucca (perhaps in all of Italy!) and had the pleasure of meeting the owner and master baker, Sandra Bianchi. Pasticceria Sandra & L'Angolo Dolce (the Sweet Corner) is just outside the walls of Lucca, in the Borgo Giannotti neighborhood, a leisurely 10-minute walk from Porta Santa Maria. Judy mentioned this pasticceria in her January post "Outside the Great Walls of Lucca." I made a return visit today to give the shop a post all its own (and to enjoy some pastry!).

Sandra has been making breads and pastry in Lucca for 20 years. She is not just a master baker, but also has a deep interest in keeping her foods beautiful and healthful. She uses fresh, locally sourced ingredients whenever possible, including organic products. Whole grains show up in her breads and pastries and she has earned a certificate of nutritional excellence for her pasticceria. This is definitely the place to give in to temptation and have a sweet treat!

You enter L'Angolo Dolce through automatic sliding doors that welcome you to a modern, bright, and cheery space. Shelves along either side of the pasticceria hold a variety of treats - candies, jams, small cookies, wines. In the back is a coffee bar, with a gleaming espresso machine, organic milk for steaming, and a friendly barista. Stand here and drink your morning cappuccino or head for one of the seats along the counter in the middle of the shop. The counter runs alongside the pastry cases and gives you a front row seat to Sandra's art form. And art it is - stimulating the eyes every bit as much as the palate.

Hw fun is that clock over the coffee bar?

The pastry cases are clear glass, through which the many delicacies can be viewed in all their tempting magnificence. Today, going from one end of the case to the other, I found first the miniatures. So many varieties - little chocolate cakes, tarts with fresh fruit, small cakes topped with almonds and apple, cream puffs and little dishes of tiramisu. Each about two bites of bliss.

Next came the larger items. Beautifully decorated cakes - dense chocolate, a layered stack dusted with powdered sugar and topped with fresh berries, lemon-filled tarts, apple-topped beauties, and a light, airy cake filled with chantilly cream and fragole (strawberries). Oh my!

Continuing down the case, next up are the panini (sandwiches) in a variety of shapes and with many different fillings. I spotted tomato and mozzarella, prosciutto, ham, and frittata. Take out is available for picnic lunches.

Lastly, the breakfast pastries, also with a wonderful variety. There were several types of cornetti (the Italian version of croissants) - vuoto (unfilled), con crema (filled with pastry cream - this counts as a breakfast protein, right?), and dark ones made with whole grain flour. In addition were round pastries studded with raisins, square ones drizzled with chocolate, spirals and twists that looked flakey and buttery, and a little torta di riso (rice cake), which is a local delicacy. I would have to stay here a year to try them all. What a tempting idea! With so many choices I stuck to my favorite, a cornetto con crema. It was hands down the best one I have ever tasted. Along with my cappuccino this made a perfect prima colazione (breakfast). But why stop at breakfast? The lunch menu of salads, sandwiches, and tarts sounds equally delicious.

The pasticceria also has a wonderful selection of other items. At this time of year Easter confections are in abundance. Marbled candy eggs, beautifully decorated chicks and bunnies, elegant dark chocolate eggs wrapped in lacy packaging, small chocolate eggs with pretty hard candy shells, all look almost too good to eat. They certainly make pretty regali (gifts).

When in Lucca, Pasticceria Sandra & L'Angolo Dolce is one of the best reasons I know for venturing outside the walls and entering the "real" world outside the tourist areas. You will be rewarded with artful and delicious treats! Grazie Sandra! -post by JB

Contact: Sandra & L'Angolo Dolce. Via Borgo Giannotti 391. Lucca, Italy

www.pasticceriasandrabianchi.com

Pistoia - a City of Culture

April 20, 2017 by Joanne Bartram

Each year the Italian Ministry of Culture identifies one city as an "Italian Capital of Culture." The competition is fierce; competing towns plan renovations and improvements and the winners receive funds to promote structural and cultural projects, along with tourism. It's a big deal! Mantua won the title in 2016. In 2018 it will be Palermo's turn.

For 2017, the Italian Capital of Culture is the city of Pistoia, which lies midway between Lucca and Florence. Pistoia is too often overlooked by tourists in favor of larger and better known Florence or nearby Lucca. That's a shame because Pistoia is a city with fascinating history, sights, and culture. I have to admit that despite many visits to this area, I had never ventured to Pistoia - until now.

Arched loggia in front of the Palazzo Comunale.

Pistoia is a pleasant 40-minute train ride from Lucca, my home away from home on this trip. The countryside between the two is dotted with backyard gardens, nurseries, small towns, and hills topped with towers, churches, or small villages. Arriving at the train station in Pistoia, it's an easy walk, about 10 minutes, to the centro storico (historic center). I visited on a market day, so the Piazza del Duomo was bustling with merchants selling everything from buttons to bakeware.

Piazza della Sala was the site of many food stalls - fruits, vegetables, fish, cheeses, olives. Is there anything more gorgeous than a pile of small purple artichokes at an Italian market?

The market ended about noon and before long the merchants packed up, the street sweepers cleared away all evidence of the market, and the piazza quieted. For the rest of the afternoon the streets were uncrowded and the town peaceful.

Some highlights in Pistoia:

The Cathedral of San Zeno (the Duomo), which sits at the heart of the oldest part of town, dates from the 12th century (though it's believed a church has stood here since even earlier times).

The raised altar with its ornately frescoed ceiling vault is stunning. Unfortunately the chapel containing the famous silver Altar of San Giacomo was not open when I visited - a good reason to return! There is beautiful artwork throughout the church. Underneath the main altar is a crypt, which is stark and surprisingly beautiful after the more ornate church. The church also has a soaring campanile (bell tower) and an octagonal baptistery that lies across the piazza.

Also in the Piazza del Duomo are the Palazzo del Comune, which houses the Museo Civico, and the Palazzo Pretorio with it's imposing "stone seat of justice." I don't think I would want to face a judge here! Step into both for the beautiful architecture, remnants of frescoes, and sense of history.

The Palazzo Pretorio has wonderful fresco remnants.

I found the Museo Civico well worth a visit - the entrance courtyard is impressive and the art, especially the oldest pieces in the first two rooms, is captivating. Entrance is free for anyone over 60; on the day I visited there were few other people in the museum.

A 13th century painting with a typically religious subject.

Time for a break? The Caffe Duomo is a good spot for a coffee and perhaps a pezzo dolce (sweet) .

Just off Piazza del Duomo are the Tower of Catilina, a tiny church (San Salvatore; currently undergoing restoration) and, just a couple of blocks away, the Ospedale del Ceppo with its painted ceramic frieze (by the Della Robia family). The exteriors of all three are worth a look.

Tondo on the facade of the Ospedale del Ceppo.

The smaller Piazza della Sala and even smaller adjacent Piazzetta degli Ortaggi feel like the friendly living room of Pistoia. They are ringed with bars, shops, and restaurants. Look for the beautiful stone well in the middle of P. Della Sala. Lunch was great at the lively Taverna Gargantua', which looks into the piazzetta and onto a modern sculpture of 3 young men, all blindfolded and holding lanterns as they set out in different directions. The sculpture, called Giro del Sole (Trip around the Sun), is by local Pistoian artist Roberto Barni.

Giro del Sole sculpture In Piazzetta degli Ortaggi, Pistoia

This is just a taste of Pistoia - there is much more to experience and it's definitely going to require a return trip. -post by JB

Interesting architecture on the exterior of the Duomo.