Italian Emigration

As a granddaughter of Italian immigrants, I was intrigued to recently visit a small museum in Lucca dedicated to telling the story of Italian emigration. It was in the late 1800s and early 1900s when the greatest number of Italians left their homeland in search of better lives. The majority – like my grandparents – came from southern Italy. That part of the country was mostly agricultural and impoverished. Italians from the south headed west – to North and South America - and to other parts of Europe as well.

The Museo Paolo Cresci in Lucca tells the story of Italian immigration from 1860 to 1960.

Italian emigration is like that of many other ethnic groups – in their new countries, immigrants largely had to take on jobs involving manual labor. Many traveled across the Atlantic by themselves, with few possessions other than their hopes for a better life. Once settled, they would send money home to help the family left behind.

The Museo Paolo Cresci in Lucca hosts photos and documents from some of those who made the transition. The items on display are taken from some 15,000 photographs and documents that Cresci collected from the families of those who emigrated.

Paolo Cresci collected more than 15,000 photos and documents from the families of Italians who emigrated.

Passports, transportation invoices and guides to new countries are among the items, as are black and white photos that starkly show the strain of the journey on the faces of those traveling. I found myself awed and humbled by their courage. People laden with all their belongings crowded onto ships for the voyage. Once they arrived, those who came to America sent postcards of the Statue of Liberty home to their families; it is fascinating to read the ones on display at the museum.

Family photos taken in the new country

The photos taken of these Italians after they resettled resemble many of my family’s old photos: children dressed for their First Holy Communion, families standing in their own homes. This time, the faces show pride for having “made it.” Wandering around the museum gave me time to think about what my forefathers sacrificed for their families. And it made me wish I had asked a lot more questions about the “old country” when I had the chance. I’m grateful that Lucca has this museum to help me find some answers.

The ceiling of Museo Paolo Cresci

The Museo Paolo Cresci looks at Italian emigration from 1860 to 1960 and admission is free. The building that houses the museum is worth a look all its own: it is a former chapel with a beautifully frescoed ceiling.

-post by JG

Fondazionepaolocresci.it

When You Can't Go for a Walk in Lucca .....

The view from one of my favorite places to walk - on the wall in Lucca, Italy.

There is much to love about everyday life in a small town in Italy. One of the things I appreciate is the chance to have a car-free lifestyle. I enjoy walking to accomplish daily tasks, like grocery shopping. Walking is also a way to enjoy the beautiful vistas, charming streets, interesting architecture, shops, and gardens. As an added bonus I even find that I get enough walking in while I’m in Italy to balance out the added calories that come with my increased consumption of pasta, bread, and wine. One of my goals in Lucca this past spring was to increase how much I walk every day – to get at least 10,000 steps. I’m happy to say that I was able to do this, in large part because the wall surrounding Lucca provides the perfect 2.5-mile walking path. When walking on the wall there are people to watch, friends to meet, children playing, and wonderful views of houses, gardens, terraces, churches and the distant mountains. Walking in Lucca never feels like an exercise chore – it's a pleasure.

But something happens when I'm not in Lucca. At home in New Mexico I bemoan the lack of charming and nearby places to walk. Somehow the treadmill at the gym just doesn’t compare. Even the parks seem inadequate. And having to drive somewhere just to walk seems so, well, not Italian. Inevitably I fall short of my goals.

Determined to find a new and interesting place to walk near home, I recently discovered the joys of walking along the acequias of Albuquerque’s north valley.

Acequia is a Spanish word for an irrigation ditch. These ditches carry water past gates that control the flow of water (a precious resource here in the arid southwestern United States). The acequia gates are not just useful - they are also fascinating. Some are wooden, some metal, all are controlled with simple wheels and levers. The old designs still work well. Landowners with water rights can divert water from the acequia onto their fields. The rights to use this water are highly prized. Don’t forget this is the west and they don’t take kindly to water rustlers!

An old acequia gate

A control wheel for an acequia gate

Now, on first thought an irrigation ditch may not sound charming but picture this – a winding path shaded by century-old cottonwood trees along small canals filled with gently flowing water. The path curves and meanders past horse pastures, barns, and adobe walls brimming with vines. 

There are also traditional New Mexico-style homes, open fields, and interesting sights around every bend.

The rustling sound in the bushes along the path are fat summer lizards scooting around. There is also the sound of birds, including the loud cry of the peacocks that live in a large pen along one section of the path. How beautiful to see them fan out their tails. The path is not crowded, but there are hikers, dog walkers, and even the occasional biker passing by.

This is definitely not the wall surrounding Lucca that I love so much, and getting to the acequia does involve a 20-minute drive. And yet, it gives me some of the same feeling that I love in Italy – beautiful views, a feeling of community with other walkers, and fascinating sights and sounds.          -post by JB

An Antiques Market in Tuscany

Market days are part of the culture in cities and small towns throughout Tuscany. The general markets, featuring a variety of foods and household goods, travel from town to town visiting each on a rotating schedule. There are also arts and crafts markets filled with work by local artisans (read more about this type of market in the post Sunday in Lucca) and specialty markets associated with holidays, including the famous Christmas markets.

Mercato Antiquario, Lucca

My favorite of all the specialty markets is the Mercato Antiquario (Antiques Market), which comes to Lucca once a month on the weekend that includes the third Sunday. This market is huge, with more than 250 bancarelle (booths), which seem to spill from one pretty square to the next in and around the Piazze San Martino, San Giovanni, and San Giusto. Wandering the markets is a treat that combines the beauty of the squares, the sounds of spoken Italian, an amazing variety of antiques and collectibles, and ample opportunities to stop for a mid-morning cappuccino, people watch, and to soak in all the activity. 

Wouldn't these pieces look great in my (imaginary) apartment?

The mercato in Lucca is especially known for its beautiful furniture, ranging from rustic to elegant and polished. I wander these booths, mentally furnishing my Lucca apartment. As I wander, I pick out kitchen tables and china cabinets, bookshelves and reading chairs, and the perfect outdoor furniture for my imaginary terrace.

My apartment also needs dishware, lighting fixtures, art, and decorative items, all of which are found in abundance at this market. Sadly, my apartment is just imaginary and I can't buy any of these wonderful finds. But it's still fun to pick out the treasures I would like to have.

There are also booths selling interesting collectibles, everything from antique lock and key sets, to medical instruments, silverware, war memorabilia, vintage cameras, glassware, and linens. It's tempting to take some of these smaller items home with me, but there is simply no room in my suitcase. So I must leave these lovely things behind and plan to "shop" again on my next trip.                       -post by JB

The Clock Tower

I am washing the dishes in my apartment in Lucca and this is my view:

Torre delle Ore, Lucca

Not bad, I know. It's an old - very old! - clock tower in Lucca. You can see the clock face on the left side of the tower in the photo but don't set your watch by it. The hands move, but only sometimes. (I have never been able to detect a pattern to the movement.) Still, the tower is beautiful and imposing. Towers such as this can be found throughout Italy, dating from medieval times, when they were built for protection. The Torre delle Ore became a clock tower in 1390.

A different view of the tower - from a tiny spare bedroom in "my" apartment.

The tower is on the main street of Lucca, Via Filungo. One of the most tantalizing aspects of this tower is a legend that it is inhabited by the ghost of a local resident who sold her soul to the devil so she could remain young. The legend says that in August 1623 the devil came after the woman to pay the debt and she climbed to the top of the tower to stop time but the devil caught her and took her soul. (Maybe that explains the clock hands only moving sometimes.)

Torre Guinigi

The tower should not be confused with the Torre Guinigi, which is another tower in Lucca. The Torre Guinigi gets a bit more attention because it has trees at the top. Both towers can still be climbed - it's about a couple hundred steps up, which in Italy is nothing (there are 47 steps to the front door of my apartment!). And from both tower tops are the most amazing views of Lucca and the Tuscan hills in the distance.                                          -post by JG

A view over Lucca from Torre Guinigi

Bologna for Beginners: The Historic Center

Fresco, Church of the Crucifix, Santo Stefano

Bologna is not one of the major tourist destinations in Italy, at least not for Americans, which is both a shame (because it's fabulous) and a blessing (because it remains less crowded than Rome, Florence, and Venice and moves at a decidedly slower pace). Many of the guide books skip over it or give it barely a mention and yet my Italian friends love this city and visit often. Add to that the region's reputation as la pancia (the stomach) of Italy with a unique and fabulous cuisine and I had to check it out for myself. And so, with a long weekend to spend, I headed to Bologna with few expectations other than exploring, wandering, and sampling good food.

It didn't take long for me to become enamored with this city - the beautiful pale red hues of the buildings and roof tops, the large medieval plazas ringed with architectural masterpieces, the cafe/bars offering perfect seats for watching the action, the bustling markets, those unique and stunning porticos, the churches, the art, and - oh yes, the food. In short, what is there to like about Bologna? Everything!

Bologna is just 35 minutes from Florence by train, but don't be tempted to "do" Bologna as a day trip. It is well worth spending several days in this beautiful city, so find a good B&B and settle in to explore. I was delighted with my stay at the B&B Palazzo Trevi on Via Frassinago. This is a warm and friendly place gracefully run by owners Consuela and Francesco. The rooms are comfortable and pretty, the breakfasts bountiful, and the location superb. Ask the owners for restaurant recommendations - they know the best spots in this neighborhood!

B&B Palazzo Trevi

Breakfast terrace at the B&B

Breakfast Buffet B&B Palazzo Trevi

It's impossible to see everything Bologna has to offer in a few short days. It's best to map out top priorities and then schedule in lots of time for strolling the arcaded streets, sipping a morning cappuccino or an afternoon drink on a pretty piazza, and just watching and wandering.

A good starting point is a walk around the historic center, which is full of medieval buildings, towers, and piazzas. A pausa (break) for coffee at Bar Vittorio on Piazza Maggiore provides a view across across the piazza to the Basilica of San Petronio with its incomplete facade (bottom half marble, top half rough brick). Across the way is Palazzo d'Accursio and the clock tower. Built in the 1300s, this building now serves as the town hall.

Basilica of San Petronio

Palazzo d'Accursio

After pausa, it's just a few steps across the piazza into the courtyard of the Palazzo d'Accursio and a few more to visit the interior of the Basilica of San Petronio with its richly decorated side chapels, beautiful stained glass windows, canopied altar with ornate crucifix, and lovely artwork. There is also an interesting meridian line from the 1600s set into the floor, which provides an accurate way of marking the days of the year. There is a 2-euro photography fee in this church - pay the fee and get a colored armband or risk getting scolded for taking photos without one. At the end of the afternoon, a return to Piazza Maggiore is perfect for a glass of wine or an aperol spritz and more people watching.

Altar, San Petronio

Fresco, San Petronio

Side chapel with beautiful windows

Just around the corner is Piazza Nettuno, with the famous Fountain of Neptune. The fountain is currently being restored and is hidden by scaffolding. It is possible to schedule an appointment to go inside the scaffolding for a peek but this must be arranged ahead of time. Two fascinating buildings enclose this piazza. First is the Palazzo Re Enzo, built in the 1200s. It has a gorgeous central courtyard, impressive stairways, an arcaded upper floor and an interesting history.

Courtyard, Palazzo Re Enzo, Bologna.

The second is the Bibliotecca Salaborsa, another medieval building, now the main public library and community center. It's worth stepping inside to see the unique architecture and ceiling and to get a sense of the vibrant community feel of this building, which is used by locals of all ages as a place to work, study, read, and meet. The basement houses a timeline showing the uses of the building over it's long history, as well as some Roman ruins.

Interior, Biblioteca Salaborsa

Quadrilatero market display

Fruits and Veggies Via Pescherie

Piazza Maggiore leads right into Via Pescherie, the heart of the Quadrilatero, or old market. The street is narrow, crowded, and filled with salumeria (delis), fruit and vegetable stands, cheese shops, fish stalls, and lots of opportunities to dine on local specialties. 

The two towers portrayed by Pio Panfili, 1767.

Fanning out from Piazza Maggiore at the center, it's easy to spot the two towers that are the symbol of Bologna. Torre degli Asinelli (highest of the two and higher than the more famous leaning tower in Pisa) and the shorter Torre Garisenda, which has a more dramatic lean. The Asinelli's wooden interior steps are currently closed for restoration, scheduled to reopen in summer 2017.  

The Biblioteca dell'Archiginnasio is just a bit behind the Basilica San Petronio in Piazza Galvani. This building was the first central seat of the University of Bologna, in the 1500s. It housed the study of medicine, law, and arts. The building is set around a central courtyard, has broad staircases to the classrooms on the upper floors, and contains a famous anatomy classroom. The family crests of students, with names and countries of origin, line the walls. With a building this imposing, the students were bound to take their studies seriously. If only the university where I taught for many years were this beautiful!

Family Crests Biblioteca dell'Archiginnasio

Lecturer's Podium Anatomy Classroom

No beginner's guide to Bologna is complete without some dining recommendations. After just four days I'm hardly an expert in Bolognese dining, but I did find some favorites:

Osteria Santa Caterina is known for it's salumi platters.

Osteria Santa Caterina is a bit out of the center in the area around the Porta Saragozza, located near, and recommended by, the innkeepers at B&B Palazzo Trevi. This is a small, cozy neighborhood place with outstanding food and wine. They have a variety of salumi platters, delicious soups, tortellini in a rich brodo (broth), terrific lasagna, and the absolute best eggplant parmesan I have ever tasted. 

A morning cappuccino and a torta di mele (apple tart) at Pasticceria Gamberini.

Pasticceria Gamberini sits under a portico on Via Ugo Bassi and has lovely pastries and cakes. It's a pleasant place to have a morning coffee and a pezzo dolce (sweet pastry). They have a beautiful array of pastries, cannoli, miniature tarts and sweets, and bite-size savories. They also have takeout panini and tremezzini (those triangular sandwiches) to go - perfect for a picnic lunch. 

A local Lambrusco wine at Ristorante "da Nello"

Ristorante "da Nello" is just off Piazza Nettuno, on Via Montegrappa. The food here is traditional, including pastas, fish, and meats. The flavors are authentic and delicious, the menu varied, the wine list good, and the waiters friendly. On a warm night, the outside dining area is delightful. 

In four days I've barely scratched the surface of Bologna. I am already looking forward to a return trip in the near future!                       -post by JB

Contacts:  

B&B Palazzo Trevi Via Frassinago, 32.   www.palazzotrevi.it