The Luminaria of Santa Croce - 2020 Style

 In Lucca, September is traditionally a month of festivals including street fairs, music performances, and – most importantly – the Festival of Santa Croce. The Santa Croce festival venerates the Volto Santo (Holy Face), an ancient wooden crucifix which is the most important religious relic in Lucca. The famous crucifix is housed in a small chapel within the larger Cathedral of San Martino.  For most of the year it is viewed through the openings in the small chapel walls, beautiful in its simplicity.

The Volto Santo dressed in gold vestments for the Feast of Santa Croce on September 13th.

 But for the September festival the crucifix is anything but simple. Instead, it is adorned with gold vestments – from crown to shoes – and the small chapel is opened for up-close encounters with what is, depending on your personal beliefs, a holy religious artifact or an important cultural and historical object. (For a more detailed description of the legend of the Volto Santo see “The Legend of the Volto Santo” post from September of 2017). Unfortunately this year, while the gold vestments are in place, entrance to the cathedral is limited which means that most of us will have to make do with memories and photos from past years.

The beauty of a candle-lit piazza during the 2016 procession

The highlight of the festival is the September 13th luminaria procession through the historic center of Lucca.  It begins in front of the Basilica of San Frediano and slowly makes its way across town, illuminated by the sea of candles which line the buildings along the narrow streets, and ends with a special ceremony upon its arrival at the Cathedral of San Martino.  

Imagine thousands of these luminaria lighting the streets of Lucca. Magic!

The luminaria procession is an important event - calling home from around the world those with Lucchese roots - and has only rarely been cancelled. The last two cancellations were due to a terrible storm in 1976 and before that a disruption towards the end of World War II.  This year the cancellation of the procession is due to concerns about the potential spread of COVID-19 through the crowds of on-lookers that typically line the streets and the many participants in the procession. The candles were lit, but there was no procession this year.

The beginning of the 2017 procession, on the steps of the Basilica of San Frediano.

 Although we could not witness the luminaria procession, and could only watch today’s religious services via Italian TV rather than from inside the Cathedral of San Martino, a look back at previous processions can remind us of the beauty of the event. With luck, we will be able to experience the joy of the luminaria once again next year. Let’s make a date for September 13, 2021 in Lucca.

A banner with the representation of the Volto Santo begins the procession each year (the actual crucifix is too large, and too valuable, to be part of the procession).

Celebrating a Year of Living in Italy

This week marks my one-year anniversary of living in Italy. The traditional one-year anniversary gift is paper, which I see as fitting for the beginning of my next year in Italy (more on that in a moment).

Via Elisa in Lucca, during lockdown 2020

My first year here has been filled with everything I love (except the friends and family who live elsewhere in the world): adventure, learning, new experiences, good food, good wine, great coffee and even greater friends and, of course, my lovable Labrador retriever. Even with the COVID-19 pandemic arriving about halfway through my first year, it has been a time to treasure. Some of my favorite photos from the past year are sprinkled throughout this post.

With this celebratory post I thank all the Two Parts Italy readers for following our blog and sharing our passion for Italy and travel in general. As I start my second year in Italy, I am staying put in Lucca but moving on from co-writing the blog, turning over all of the writing to Joanne. Two Parts Italy, and Joanne, will continue to keep you connected to Italy with weekly blog posts. (Joanne says she hopes to persuade me to write an occasional guest post.)

Venice

In the coming year, I am moving on to other endeavors, including going back to doing some painting and drawing (that’s why paper is fitting for this anniversary) and other writing, and focusing more on photography. The kind words from many of you about my photos have inspired me. Thank you! Who knows? Another blog might be in my future as well.   -post by Judy

Bodhi, waiting for our friend, Candice, to come walk with us

Lenno and Varenna: Two Towns and Two Shores on Lake Como

One of the things I’ve most missed during the nearly six months that we’ve lived with COVID-19 is the ability to travel freely and explore Italy and beyond. After all, the ability to see more of Italy (and of Europe) was part of the reason I moved to Lucca nearly two years ago. Because travel has been limited, I find myself thinking back to trips I took in the months before our lives changed so dramatically. Remembering these adventures helps keep me focused on the positive rather than the negatives associated with the virus. One of the trips I like to remember was one I made last fall, when my sister came to visit.

With only a short (three-day) stay at Lake Como, we had to make some tough choices about how to spend our time. Because my sister, Patty, was a first-time visitor to this region, I wanted to show her some highlights, a few “must-sees,” and one of my favorite spots, Villa del Balbianello. And because on-and-off rain was predicted throughout our stay, it was important to take advantage of every bit of clear weather.

The boat landing in Bellagio, under blue skies just before the rain set in

We spent the better part of our first day in Bellagio (a “can’t miss”), which was beautiful despite the misty, rainy weather that descended soon after we arrived. Bellagio, with its narrow staircase “streets,” is the place for shopping on the lake and the many shops provided a great way to escape the drizzle.

The day in Bellagio was wonderful, but hands down my favorite day was the one we spent exploring two towns on opposite shores of the lake - Lenno and Varenna.

Wandering through the back streets of Lenno on a foggy morning

We started off the day in Lenno, on the western shore, just a short bus ride from our hotel down the road in Argegno. Lenno is a small village (fewer than 2,000 residents), which sits at the base of a short peninsula that juts into Lake Como. A walk through town and along the seaside promenade affords wonderful views of narrow lanes, the wooded peninsula, the town’s small harbor, and long views across mid-lake to Bellagio. There is a pretty village church (Santo Stefano), shore-front restaurants, and many peaceful spots to pause and enjoy the view.

Lake Como as seen from a terrace at Villa del Balbionello in Lenno

Most visitors to Lenno are on the way to visit Villa del Balbionello and that’s where we headed too. The villa, which sits at the end of the peninsula, can be reached by a hike through the wooded landscape or by my preferred method - motorboat. The villa and its surrounding gardens are breathtaking (mozzafiato in Italian) and definitely on the list of must-sees for any visit to Lake Como. (For more on the villa, see Two Parts Italy Villa del Balbianello, March 23, 2017). After visiting the villa, we had a wonderful lunch in Lenno at Trattoria Santo Stefano (fresh fish expertly prepared, photos below).

After lunch it was a short walk along the harbor to the ferry dock where we caught the boat over to Varenna on the lake’s eastern shore.

One of the endless views of the lake to be found in Varenna

Varenna has its own special character. It is small and laid-back, with fewer tourists, though it’s still plenty lively with lots to enjoy. There are gardens (including a botanical garden), villas, a small harbor, a ferry stop, and a charming old town.

The most unique feature in Varenna is the passerella, a bridge-like walkway that skirts along the shore above the water. It is also called the “passeggiata degli inamorata” (loosely translated as lover’s lane). You’ll know it by its red railing - all that separates you from the lake - and views that are incomparable. You may even hear accordion music as you walk along, the perfect Lake Como soundtrack. This walk is a must when visiting Varenna. It takes you from the ferry stop, along the lake front, and through the old town. Even better is stopping for lunch or a gelato along the way. Keep going past the famous Hotel du Lac with its view terrace (perhaps it is time for an aperitivo with a view?) and then up away from the lake into the center of the old town, ending at the church of San Georgio.

A morning in Lenno and an afternoon in Varenna made for a busy but fabulous day, especially shared with my sister. But next time we have to stay longer! - post by Joanne

Making Marble in Carrara, Italy

What could Michelangelo and James Bond possibly have in common? Carrara, Italy, the city known worldwide for the marble produced there. White gold, some of it is called.

Michelangelo traveled to the area to choose marble (marmo in Italian) for many of his sculptures, including his incredible Pieta. And the James Bond movie, “Quantum of Solace,” was filmed among some of the Carrara marble basins in 2008. Being a fan of both Michelangelo and James Bond, a trip to Carrara has been on my travel wish list for quite some time. I recently took a day trip there with a couple of friends.

The famous Carrara marble is, of course, excavated from within the mountains of the area. In Michelangelo’s time, it was a months-long process - borne by man and beast - to break a slab of marble free from the mountain and maneuver it to the sea for transport to Rome or another destination. (Just think how hard it would be to get your marble kitchen counter top down the side of a mountain in the days before trucks and trains!) Today, it is a days-long process – carried out by man and machine. Until 1965 (!) it was done largely as it was centuries ago. Now, even with technological advancements, it remains a dangerous and difficult job, the details of which we learned during an off-road 4x4 tour.

Near the quarry, almost everything is made of marble

Tons of marble are carried down the mountain by truck

We traveled 1,000 meters above sea level on a winding road before stopping and surveying the surrounding ridges, cut into to form massive marble “staircases.” In the distance was the Mediterranean Sea, where a sizable port serves as a launching pad for long-distance deliveries of the marble. Closer to us, heavy-duty equipment was expertly managed by quarry workers on some of the “steps” of the mountainside. There are more than 100 quarries and more than 800 people employed by them.

Almost translucent

Heavier white marble

Blue-grey marble

Back down the mountain is the city of Carrara, long ago established as a place to house the quarry workers, and where many of the sidewalks are made of marble. The “white gold” marble is labeled so because of the gold veins that traverse it. A piece held up to the sun by our tour guide revealed the transparency of the marble. Blue-grey marble quarried here is more dense but also beautiful.

The yellow line above carries electricity to the quarry site; the blue line carries water, a key component in the quarry efforts. Rainwater is used today.

Carrara is an easy drive from Lucca (about 50 minutes or so) and a tour of the quarries is fascinating. I recommend it to anyone in the area (except those who get car sick on winding roads).   -post by Judy

Signs denote the different quarries.

The Colors of an Italian Summer

When I think of summer in Italy, a number of things spring to mind. In a “normal” summer, I would picture tourists from around the world, music festivals, sagras (community-based celebrations of local foods), large gatherings with friends, and holiday visits from family. Sadly, most of these activities are not possible this summer. But that doesn’t mean summer is a lost season. There are still many things to enjoy, starting with the colors of the Italian summer. Looking around, I see color everywhere - and that color sends my spirits soaring.

How the water sparkles on this beach in the seaside town of Levanto, just north of the Cinque Terre . If you are in Italy this summer you will find it relatively uncrowded.

Summer is the time to enjoy the colors of nature, starting with the blue of the ocean, experienced on a beach or from high above on a rocky coast (near Levanto, below). These natural colors are complemented by brightly colored boats like these in the harbor at Vernazza in the Cinque Terre..

Summer also brings the varied colors of seasonal produce. Food that is this colorful and beautifully displayed is its own form of art. Doesn’t it make you want to get into the kitchen and create something tasty?

And then there are the flowers of summer. They spill from pretty window boxes, climb above archways, fill gardens, and grow wild along back roads and coastlines. Nature’s blossoms delight throughout the season.

In summer, there are sure to be colorful umbrellas in piazzas and harbor-side cafes. Sitting under one you just might enjoy the bright orange of an Aperol spritz, a favorite summertime cocktail.

Do you have a favorite color of the Italian summer photo from this summer or years past? We’d love to see them posted on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page. -post by Joanne