A Scavenger Hunt in Lucca

Lucca has many well-known sites - churches, gardens, medieval streets, the remains of a Roman Amphitheater. It also has many hidden gems and an abundance of art and architectural detail tucked away in less known places.

As a “let’s all keep busy and plan our next outing in Lucca” activity during this period of on-going travel restrictions, I thought an art and architecture scavenger hunt would be fun. I hope you will want to play along!

How many of these scenes are familiar to you? Can you identify where to find them? If you recognize them, I hope they evoke happy memories. And if you are not familiar with them, I hope you will put them on the “must see” list for your next stroll through Lucca.

Can you identify where in Lucca each of these photos were taken? Start with the top photo above and then check your answers against the descriptions at the end of this post. No cheating !

#2

#3 (below) is a before (on the left) and after restoration (on the right). Which do you prefer?

#4

#5

#6

#7

#8

#9

#10

#1. This fresco is found above the front door of the church of Sant’Anastasio, the only Eastern Orthodox Church in Lucca. Try to peak inside - the interior is stunning and unlike any other church in Lucca.

#2 This beautiful carving tells the story of Santa Zita. it is found above the well (now covered) outside the home where she used to work for the Fatinelli family on Via Fontana, just a few steps off busy Via Fillungo.

#3 This recently restored fresco is found on Via Arcivescovado. For years I hoped it would be restored as I watched it crumble and fade but now I find I miss the faded original.

#4 Sometimes it is the smallest detail that catches the eye. What this is exactly I cannot say - it’s hinged so must be a door or access panel of some sort. But to me it looks like a piece of sculptural art. It is found on the back side of the Church of San Frediano, facing the piazza in front of the Real Collegio. Extra points to anyone who can explain its purpose.

#5 This gate combines art and function. It is found inside the gardens of Palazzo Pfanner, just to the side of the big circular fountain. The structure in the back, which looks like stables for really small horses, is actually where the beer kegs were stored when this palazzo served as Lucca’s beer garden.

#6 Lucca has many, many church bells but these are unique as they are small and not inside a campanile (bell tower). You’ll have to look up to see them, above the tiny church of Santa Maria della Rosa. My favorite church in Lucca, it is built up against a section of the original Roman wall, has lovely frescos, and the beautiful painting of Santa Maria della Rosa above the altar.

#7 This is a hard one and is from another of Lucca’s tiny churches, the Church of Santa Caterina. Santa Caterina has a unique painted ceiling that is actually a double dome. The lower dome has an oculus through which you view the upper dome, giving the illusion of incredible depth.

If you climb the stairs all the way to the top, photo #7 is what the dome looks like viewed from above. To the right is what it looks like from the church floor below. Gorgeous.

Santa Caterina was restored by FAI several years ago and is rarely open except for special events. It definitely goes on my “do not miss” list. And hearing music in the small chapel is magic!

#8 There is a large ruin that is easily seen along the northeast part of Lucca’s wall, adorned with graffiti. However this glimpse into the ruin is visible only from the street level at the very north end of Via del Fosso, where the water first enters the canal. It’s an intriguing sight - who lived here? why did they leave? what lies inside? and what is that hanging over the doorway?

#9 This dragon-like creature is found in Piazza San Michele, high above a bank, a counterpoint to the Archangel Michael atop the cathedral across the way.

#10. Not all of the statues in Lucca are of famous composers, water nymphs, or goddesses. Some are just plain fun, like this lusty lady in front of Trattoria da Ubaldo.  Blow her a kiss, surely it brings good luck. There are more interesting “treasures” to be found inside the trattoria. A fun place for lunch or dinner.

I hope you’ve had fun with this scavenger hunt around Lucca. Do you have photos of hidden gems here in Lucca? If so, please post them on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page.

Harvest Time in Italy 2020

Bringing in the just picked grapes. Photo by J. Carnevale, used with permission.

As summer turns into fall, Italy’s harvest season is in full swing. I love the sound of the Italian verb “to harvest” -  raccogliere.  The harvest itself is the raccolto.  Raccolto is a general term applied to many different types of crops. At this time of year there is the raccolto di zucca (pumpkin harvest) for example.  In a few weeks the raccolto di olive (olive harvest) will begin.  But when it comes to harvesting Italy’s grapes, the simple word raccolto just won’t do.  The grape harvest has its own special term - the vendemmia (the verb is vendemmiare). Seeing the vendemmia, or better yet participating in it, is a peak Italian experience.  As I write this, the vendemmia is going on throughout Tuscany while I am stuck inside, finishing up a two week quarantine mandated by my return to Italy from the United States.  Poor timing on my part!  The best I can do this year is to live vicariously through some friends who’ve been busy helping with the vendemmia on their friend’s farm.  

The quality of the grapes varies from year to year due to the effects of temperature, moisture, and a host of other factors. Some years are better than others and this year is predicted to be a good one for the grapes, which should mean a good vintage of wine.  But just as the pandemic of 2020 has played havoc on so many aspects of life, the cultivation of grapes and the production of wine have not been spared.  There will be fewer experienced seasonal workers because of restricted entry of foreigners into Italy, this is sure to impact the harvest in some areas. It is also unclear what the market will be for wine distribution and export because of the financial effects of COVID-19 throughout the world.  Time will tell how severe the impact of such factors will be on farmers and wine producers. The usual harvest festivals will also be limited - just as many other events have been - a not insignificant cultural loss.

Demijohns waiting to be filled. Photo by J. Carnevale, used with permission.

With these problems in mind, I think we all have a civic duty to buy lots and lots of Italian wine this year. It is the least we can do to help the local economy, wouldn’t you agree?

My friends who participated in the harvest shared some of their bounty with me, leaving a much appreciated bag of freshly harvested peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, and herbs at my doorstep. In the bag were also some of the freshly picked grapes - more than I could possibly eat.  So, in the spirit of participation in the harvest, I decided to use them to make some grape jam.  With plenty of quarantine-enforced time on my hands I found myself “peeling” the grapes (actually it’s more like squeezing each individual grape to get the pulp out than it is actually peeling them). I then boiled the pulp, strained it to remove the seeds, added the skins back in, and cooked it a second time. The result was a gorgeous deep purple liquid as the skins infused the juice with color. Sadly, my jam making skills failed me and I ended up with a sort of thick grape syrup that never set up into jam. But hey, I’m all for celebrating my failures!  The syrup was intense and sweet - a little drizzle was perfect on fresh ricotta for breakfast. It was also good spooned over some warm tomino cheese with a salad for lunch.

By the time the olive harvest rolls around in early November I plan to be out of quarantine and spending a week on an agriturismo where the raccolto di olive will be in process. Maybe they will put me to work and I will look just as happy, and just as much in my natural element, as my friend Jim (below), looked when he took part in this year’s vendemmia. I’m happy he shared his experiences, his grapes, his joy, and his photos with me.

Photo by R. Daniel. Used with permission.

From My Italian Kitchen: Muffins

We’ve all missed things during the last challenging months – family, travel, hugs (that’s a big one!), and getting together with friends to name a few.   One of the things I’ve missed most is entertaining. Having friends over to my home, gathering interesting people around my table, is one of my favorite things to do. I take great pleasure in the preparations - working in the kitchen (baking, chopping, stirring = culinary therapy). I also enjoy picking out just the right dishes, arranging flowers, and setting a pretty table in anticipation of guests arriving.  How I’ve missed this during the months when we were not allowed to have people over to our homes! Luckily, those times are past and now we can open our homes to friends – as long as the groups are small and everyone is well.  Social distancing means I can fit only 2 or 3 guests around my table. That size group is perfect for one of my favorite ways to entertain – the morning coffee or brunch.  

For me, morning gatherings always call for muffins, whether I’m baking in my tiny Italian kitchen or my slightly larger one in New Mexico.  

Lemon glazed muffins - my favorite.

I almost always start the menu with muffins, add a pretty bowl of fruit, perhaps some yogurt or an egg dish.  Combine with coffee, tea (perhaps a mimosa), plus a couple of good friends and you’ve got the perfect socially distanced morning get together.  Since I’ve hosted brunches in both Italy and New Mexico this summer, both featuring muffins, I thought I would share some of my favorite recipes. 

Summer ripe strawberries with a little sweetened cream cheese go well with lemon glazed muffins

 First up, Lemon Glazed Muffins. I think of these as Italian muffins, both because the bright lemony flavor reminds me of summer in Italy and because I made them for the first time in the toaster oven in my tiny Italian kitchen. The recipe is adapted from a lemon quick bread; with some small changes it became muffins. The recipe makes a dozen, but is easily halved to make 6. It is hands down my favorite muffin!

 1 medium lemon (pick a juicy one!)  You’ll need the grated zest and 4 ½ teaspoons of juice.

1 ½ cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar (plus another 2 tablespoons for the glaze)

½ cup butter

2 eggs, slightly beaten

½ cup whole milk + 1 -2 tablespoons

 Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare a muffin pan (don’t use paper cups  – they don’t work well with the sticky lemon glaze)

Grate the peel from the lemon and squeeze for juice, set both aside for now.

Combine flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar in a medium size mixing bowl.

Cut in the butter to make coarse crumbs and then stir in the grated lemon zest.

 Beat the eggs slightly and add the milk. Stir the egg/milk mixture into the dry ingredients to moisten. (if too dry, add another tablespoon or two of milk).

Spoon batter into a prepared muffin pan and bake for about 25 minutes until tops are just golden.   Cool 5-10 minutes on a rack and then carefully remove from the muffin tin.

 Mix the reserved lemon juice with 2 Tablespoons sugar.  Bring to a slow boil, cook and stir until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.  Brush the tops of each muffin generously with the lemon glaze.   These are good while still warm or when cooled to room temp. 

Another coffee get together - this time in New Mexico - with sugar crusted muffins and a plate of mango with blackberries. Yum!

 Next, Sugar Crusted Muffins. I’ve been baking these muffins for over 50 years.  Really!  The recipe dates back to my 8th grade home economics class.  Since then I’ve made them countless times and have adapted the recipe to make blueberry muffins as well. If only my 8th grade teacher could see me now!    The recipe makes 9 generous or 12 smaller muffins.

1 ½ cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ tsp salt

½ cup sugar

¼ cup butter, melted.  (plus another ¼ cup melted butter for dipping the baked muffins)

½ cup whole milk + 2 tablespoons

1 egg, slightly beaten

additional sugar and cinnamon for topping

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  

 Sift flour, add baking powder and salt; resift and add sugar.

Combine melted butter with milk and beaten egg, beat slightly and add to dry ingredients. Mix just to moisten.

Spoon batter into prepared muffin tin.  Bake for 15-20 minutes until the tops are firm and golden brown.

When cool enough to remove from pan, dip the top of each muffin into the melted butter (1/4 cup) and then into a small bowel with a sugar – cinnamon mixture (½ cup sugar and 1 tablespoon cinnamon).  

The cinnamon and sugar topping make these muffins the perfect treat for morning coffee.

Blueberry Muffin Variation:  Use ¾ cup buttermilk, cut in the butter rather than using melted butter, add a big scoop of blueberries.  After spooning into the muffin tin (and before baking) sprinkle the tops with a little demerara sugar for extra sparkle and crunch. Doubling the recipe makes 1 and 1/2 dozen muffins.

Blueberry muffins were the star, alongside strawberries, for a brunch in New Mexico just before I left to return to Italy.

 With fall quickly approaching, it’s the perfect time to fire up the oven and do some baking.  I’m looking forward to sharing my next batch of muffins with friends, especially now that I am back in Lucca after a couple of months in the United States.  And remember, in Italian the word for muffin is … muffin!

The Luminaria of Santa Croce - 2020 Style

 In Lucca, September is traditionally a month of festivals including street fairs, music performances, and – most importantly – the Festival of Santa Croce. The Santa Croce festival venerates the Volto Santo (Holy Face), an ancient wooden crucifix which is the most important religious relic in Lucca. The famous crucifix is housed in a small chapel within the larger Cathedral of San Martino.  For most of the year it is viewed through the openings in the small chapel walls, beautiful in its simplicity.

The Volto Santo dressed in gold vestments for the Feast of Santa Croce on September 13th.

 But for the September festival the crucifix is anything but simple. Instead, it is adorned with gold vestments – from crown to shoes – and the small chapel is opened for up-close encounters with what is, depending on your personal beliefs, a holy religious artifact or an important cultural and historical object. (For a more detailed description of the legend of the Volto Santo see “The Legend of the Volto Santo” post from September of 2017). Unfortunately this year, while the gold vestments are in place, entrance to the cathedral is limited which means that most of us will have to make do with memories and photos from past years.

The beauty of a candle-lit piazza during the 2016 procession

The highlight of the festival is the September 13th luminaria procession through the historic center of Lucca.  It begins in front of the Basilica of San Frediano and slowly makes its way across town, illuminated by the sea of candles which line the buildings along the narrow streets, and ends with a special ceremony upon its arrival at the Cathedral of San Martino.  

Imagine thousands of these luminaria lighting the streets of Lucca. Magic!

The luminaria procession is an important event - calling home from around the world those with Lucchese roots - and has only rarely been cancelled. The last two cancellations were due to a terrible storm in 1976 and before that a disruption towards the end of World War II.  This year the cancellation of the procession is due to concerns about the potential spread of COVID-19 through the crowds of on-lookers that typically line the streets and the many participants in the procession. The candles were lit, but there was no procession this year.

The beginning of the 2017 procession, on the steps of the Basilica of San Frediano.

 Although we could not witness the luminaria procession, and could only watch today’s religious services via Italian TV rather than from inside the Cathedral of San Martino, a look back at previous processions can remind us of the beauty of the event. With luck, we will be able to experience the joy of the luminaria once again next year. Let’s make a date for September 13, 2021 in Lucca.

A banner with the representation of the Volto Santo begins the procession each year (the actual crucifix is too large, and too valuable, to be part of the procession).

Celebrating a Year of Living in Italy

This week marks my one-year anniversary of living in Italy. The traditional one-year anniversary gift is paper, which I see as fitting for the beginning of my next year in Italy (more on that in a moment).

Via Elisa in Lucca, during lockdown 2020

My first year here has been filled with everything I love (except the friends and family who live elsewhere in the world): adventure, learning, new experiences, good food, good wine, great coffee and even greater friends and, of course, my lovable Labrador retriever. Even with the COVID-19 pandemic arriving about halfway through my first year, it has been a time to treasure. Some of my favorite photos from the past year are sprinkled throughout this post.

With this celebratory post I thank all the Two Parts Italy readers for following our blog and sharing our passion for Italy and travel in general. As I start my second year in Italy, I am staying put in Lucca but moving on from co-writing the blog, turning over all of the writing to Joanne. Two Parts Italy, and Joanne, will continue to keep you connected to Italy with weekly blog posts. (Joanne says she hopes to persuade me to write an occasional guest post.)

Venice

In the coming year, I am moving on to other endeavors, including going back to doing some painting and drawing (that’s why paper is fitting for this anniversary) and other writing, and focusing more on photography. The kind words from many of you about my photos have inspired me. Thank you! Who knows? Another blog might be in my future as well.   -post by Judy

Bodhi, waiting for our friend, Candice, to come walk with us