San Quirico d'Orcia

The small villages in the Val d’Orcia have much in common.  They sit on hilltops and look out over rolling hills, olive groves, vineyards, and cypress trees. They are often fortified by city walls, the legacy of ancient conflicts. The street plans are mostly Medieval, often with a single main street and a large main piazza ringed with stone and brick buildings. They are filled with churches large and small.

Classic Val d’Orcia scenes, in the village of San Quirico

And the history!  From Etruscan tombs to Roman roads, from Medieval streetscapes to World War II bombs, the history of these villages is rich and fascinating.  That they have so much in common, and yet each village has its own unique character, makes a trip through this area especially wonderful. Think of Monticchiello with its Teatro Povero and stone houses, Montalcino with its famed Brunello wine and steep streets, Bagno Vignoni with its thermal pools, and Pienza - the perfect Renaissance city - with its pretty houses and flowers filled window boxes.

 San Quirico d’Orcia is yet another of the villages found in the Val d’Orcia. Named after a martyred child saint, it lies between Montalcino and Pienza, situated along the ancient Via Francigena, the pilgrim’s route between Canterbury and Rome.  Today, modern pilgrims and adventurous walkers still pass through San Quirico as they follow the ancient path. Other tourists arrive more conventionally by car and stay to enjoy the many things that make this a most pleasant spot.

The ancient wall around San Quirico

Most of the wall surrounding the city remains, with 2 gates providing entrance to the historic center of town and several of the former watchtowers still standing (though now repurposed, some into tall and narrow homes).  The Porta Cappuccini is the old and most historic gate – a lovely way to enter the town.

 The best way to explore San Quirico is to simply wander.  A stroll along the main street, Via Dante Alighieri, takes you both along the route of the Via Francigena and past most of the main sights in town. At one end, just inside the city walls, is the Collegiata Church (12th century) with its interesting shape, three very different entrances, and beautiful bell tower.  

The Collegiata Church (also known as the church of Santi Quirico e Giulitta)

Further down the street is the church of San Francesco, with its famous terracotta della Robbia madonna (moved here from the Chapel of the Vitaleta) and its combination bell and clock tower. In front of the church is the Piazza della Liberta`. This lively square is the center of town and a hub of activity.  It’s a great place to stop for a coffee or a glass of wine and to soak in the atmosphere. 

Piazza della Liberta` and the Church of San Francesco

In this square is also the entry to one of San Quirico’s special spaces – the Horti Leonini, a 16th century garden.  The centerpiece is a statue of Cosimo III di Medici. All around him is classic Italian garden design. 

Stepping back into the Piazza della Liberta`, and continuing down Via Dante Aligheri, are two of my favorite spots.  One, is a hidden courtyard which contains an old well and the pilgrim’s refuge the Ospedale della Scala.  The other, right on the street, is the small church of Santa Maria Assunta, which is over 1000 years old (but no interior photos allowed!)

The old well in front of the Ospedale della Scala

 It’s also fun to wander the small side streets.  On my most recent visit, during the height of the olive harvest, I found an active but very old frantoio (olive press) which was still using old stones to grind the olives.  The friendly staff invited me inside to watch the process.  The smell of the fresh olive oil was delicious!

And on a side street just along the church of San Francesco is the wonderful Trattoria al Vecchio Forno, built on the site of the old town bakery (forno).  I’ve eaten here on previous visits and it’s a place that never fails to please.  My lunch, a honey drizzled sformatino and a pappa al pomodoro, eaten outside in the garden on a warm fall day, was delicious.

 Heading back to Pienza, the Chapel of the Madonna of Vitaleta is visible from the road.  It is well worth the detour to stop and visit this tiny chapel, which is one of the most photographed spots in Tuscany.   The chapel itself is not usually open, but the surrounding vistas are spectacular.  

 San Quirico was the last stop on my trip through the Val d’Orcia.  There are so many other places left to explore, among them the famous wine towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano (which is just outside the Val d’Orcia) and also the gardens at La Foce.  

I guess I’d better start planning a return trip!

Monticchiello: A Medieval Village in Tuscany

Italy is now struggling with a second wave of COVID-19 infections. Each week since the end of October seemed to bring a new governmental decree with tighter restrictions. As I write this, in mid-November, Tuscany has quickly progressed from the yellow zone (lowest risk) to the orange zone (moderate risk) and now to the dreaded red zone (highest risk). At present, travel outside of the comune (municipal area) of Lucca is forbidden except for urgent reasons. I was fortunate to be able to travel to the Val d’Orcia in south central Tuscany just before the current restrictions went into effect. Right now, such a trip would be impossible. So, while currently under lockdown in Lucca, over the next few weeks I will share glimpses into some of the small towns and hilltop villages I encountered during my week in the Val d’Orcia.

To begin this series, let’s start with a place that seems to come straight from the pages of a medieval story book, the fortress-like hamlet of Monticchiello.

Stone buildings line medieval streets in the fortified hamlet of Monticchiello

A bit of history: the settlement here is old - dating back to Etruscan times. The current fortress dates to the 1200’s. Today, Monticchiello is the most serene of places, but its history tells a different story. The fortress was part of the defenses of the Republic of Siena (long before there was a country called Italy) making it a 13th century pawn in the conflicts between Siena and Montepulciano. Later, control by Siena gave way to the power of the Medicis. Later still, Monticchiello became a part of the district of Pienza (1777) where it remains today.

Jump ahead to 1944 for some more recent history. During World War II, the area around Monticchiello was the site of conflict between the occupying German forces and the local partigiani (partisan fighters). In an act of reprisal for partisan activities, the German army entered the town and rounded up all the residents, intending to massacre them. In a fortunate turn of events, a young German woman, the wife of a local man, was among the villagers. She was able to convince the soldiers (with the help of the village priest) that the people should be spared. And so the citizens in Monticchiello that day survived the war.

The winding road up to Monticchiello

The approach to Monticchiello is up a winding, cypress lined road - the classic Tuscan landscape. On arrival, and before entering the walled village itself, is a scenic overlook with sweeping views of the valley below.

Monticchiello is a fortified village designed to keep invaders out. Entrance is through an arched opening in the fortress walls, the Porta Sant’Agata. The remains of two watch towers, one rising high and one which has lost its top, flank the archway (top photo). What lies inside is a picture perfect medieval village with sloped streets, stone buildings, open piazzas, steep steps leading up to houses, and pretty flower-filled windows and balconies. There are a couple of restaurants (including the well known La Porta with fantastic views over the valley from its outdoor terrace) as well as small shops and galleries (most closed on this visit, due to the impact of COVID). Of course, there are churches to visit and a museum dedicated to the local theater company.

Beautiful stone buildings are found throughout Monticchiello

Monticchiello is so perfect that is almost looks like a movie set. In fact, it has been often been used in movies, most recently the film “Made in Italy” starring Liam Nelson which was filmed in and around the village. The residents here (only about 200 in number) show great pride in the village, which is spotlessly tidy and full of colorful plants and flowers.

This is a quiet place and definitely not a tourist hotspot. Many who do visit come in the summer for the Teatro Povero, which is unique to Monticchiello. The Teatro Povero (Poor Theater) began here in the 1960’s, an era when the local way of life was in the middle of dramatic transformation. In post-war Monticchiello the agricultural tradition of share-chopping was fading away, people were moving to the cities for work, the economic and societal changes were dramatic. The theater, in which a play is produced based on a theme of current local importance, has involved the community in a type of public self-reflection and expression for more than 50 years. The theme is chosen by the local theater group, the play is written, directed, and acted by locals . One play is produced each year and presented as an outdoor event during July and August. A 2017 documentary film, Spettacolo, tells this story beautifully and insightfully.

Monticchiello may be off the beaten track but that is exactly what makes it so magical! Stopping here gives a glimpse of life in medieval Italy, a chance to walk the steep streets of a fortified village, a taste of the spirit of an authentic hilltop hamlet, and amazing views. And if, like me, you find Italian doors and windows fascinating, then Monticchiello is your kind of place.

The Streets of Siena

The city of Siena sits in the middle of Tuscany, surrounded by fantastic landscapes, charming hill towns, and sweeping valleys. A UNESCO World Heritage site, Siena is a city of ancient brick buildings which hug medieval streets, steep lanes, beautiful piazzas, and architectural wonders.

One could easily spend several weeks (or a lifetime) exploring the wonders of Siena. But my recent visit didn’t afford me the luxury of time - I was simply passing through on my way to a week long trip to the Val d’Orcia in south central Tuscany (see end note re: current travel restrictions in Tuscany) . All I had time for was a leisurely walk through town and a nice lunch.

Siena’s cathedral under a beautiful fall sky

Walking toward the historic center of Siena, the dominant feature is the view of 13th century cathedral, its dome and campanile (bell tower) rising high above the rooftops of the city. Up close, the cathedral wows with its marble facade, elaborate portals, sculptures, gargoyles, and mosaics. The bell tower, with its striking black and white stripes, stretches high above. No time to go inside on this trip, that will have to wait for another visit.

Piazza del Campo, Siena on a sunny fall day

Siena’s most recognizable landmark is its shell-shaped central square, the Piazza del Campo. Long ago this sweeping open space served as Siena’s marketplace. Today it is a gathering spot for locals and visitors alike (and their dogs, who enjoy laying on the warm pavement on a chilly fall morning). The piazza is famous for the architecture of the buildings that ring it, the Palazzo Pubblico (City Hall) and the tall tower, the Torre del Mangia. The Piazza del Campo is also where the famous Palio horse race takes place. On the day of my visit in late October, sun and warmth radiated off the brick surface of the uncrowded piazza.

The Palazzo Pubblico and the Torre del Mangia, Siena

The piazza is also home to the beautiful Fonte Gaia, the Fountain of Joy. The fountain was originally an important source of water for the city. Today it is appreciated as a work of art for the graceful marble reliefs which enclose it on three sides. I have not seen a fountain of this type in other Italian cities, both its shape and the carved surround make it unique to Siena.

These may be Siena’s most famous sights, but Siena is more than just famous landmarks; it’s a beautiful city with streets and squares perfect for wandering.

There are medieval buildings, churches and convents, roof tops, steep streets, and arched alleyways giving glimpses of hidden corners. Taking time to soak it all in is a joy, even if you just have a few hours to wander through town.

The roof tops of Siena

Note: Italy is now seeing a resurgence of COVID infections and, at present, many daily life and travel restrictions are in place. My trip to south central Tuscany was complaint with all restrictions that existed in late October and the first few days of November. Look for upcoming posts over the next few weeks about several of the villages in the Val d’Orcia that I visited during my week-long trip. I hope these posts will be a reminder of the beauty of Italy that awaits when travel is once again possible.

Lenno and Varenna: Two Towns and Two Shores on Lake Como

One of the things I’ve most missed during the nearly six months that we’ve lived with COVID-19 is the ability to travel freely and explore Italy and beyond. After all, the ability to see more of Italy (and of Europe) was part of the reason I moved to Lucca nearly two years ago. Because travel has been limited, I find myself thinking back to trips I took in the months before our lives changed so dramatically. Remembering these adventures helps keep me focused on the positive rather than the negatives associated with the virus. One of the trips I like to remember was one I made last fall, when my sister came to visit.

With only a short (three-day) stay at Lake Como, we had to make some tough choices about how to spend our time. Because my sister, Patty, was a first-time visitor to this region, I wanted to show her some highlights, a few “must-sees,” and one of my favorite spots, Villa del Balbianello. And because on-and-off rain was predicted throughout our stay, it was important to take advantage of every bit of clear weather.

The boat landing in Bellagio, under blue skies just before the rain set in

We spent the better part of our first day in Bellagio (a “can’t miss”), which was beautiful despite the misty, rainy weather that descended soon after we arrived. Bellagio, with its narrow staircase “streets,” is the place for shopping on the lake and the many shops provided a great way to escape the drizzle.

The day in Bellagio was wonderful, but hands down my favorite day was the one we spent exploring two towns on opposite shores of the lake - Lenno and Varenna.

Wandering through the back streets of Lenno on a foggy morning

We started off the day in Lenno, on the western shore, just a short bus ride from our hotel down the road in Argegno. Lenno is a small village (fewer than 2,000 residents), which sits at the base of a short peninsula that juts into Lake Como. A walk through town and along the seaside promenade affords wonderful views of narrow lanes, the wooded peninsula, the town’s small harbor, and long views across mid-lake to Bellagio. There is a pretty village church (Santo Stefano), shore-front restaurants, and many peaceful spots to pause and enjoy the view.

Lake Como as seen from a terrace at Villa del Balbionello in Lenno

Most visitors to Lenno are on the way to visit Villa del Balbionello and that’s where we headed too. The villa, which sits at the end of the peninsula, can be reached by a hike through the wooded landscape or by my preferred method - motorboat. The villa and its surrounding gardens are breathtaking (mozzafiato in Italian) and definitely on the list of must-sees for any visit to Lake Como. (For more on the villa, see Two Parts Italy Villa del Balbianello, March 23, 2017). After visiting the villa, we had a wonderful lunch in Lenno at Trattoria Santo Stefano (fresh fish expertly prepared, photos below).

After lunch it was a short walk along the harbor to the ferry dock where we caught the boat over to Varenna on the lake’s eastern shore.

One of the endless views of the lake to be found in Varenna

Varenna has its own special character. It is small and laid-back, with fewer tourists, though it’s still plenty lively with lots to enjoy. There are gardens (including a botanical garden), villas, a small harbor, a ferry stop, and a charming old town.

The most unique feature in Varenna is the passerella, a bridge-like walkway that skirts along the shore above the water. It is also called the “passeggiata degli inamorata” (loosely translated as lover’s lane). You’ll know it by its red railing - all that separates you from the lake - and views that are incomparable. You may even hear accordion music as you walk along, the perfect Lake Como soundtrack. This walk is a must when visiting Varenna. It takes you from the ferry stop, along the lake front, and through the old town. Even better is stopping for lunch or a gelato along the way. Keep going past the famous Hotel du Lac with its view terrace (perhaps it is time for an aperitivo with a view?) and then up away from the lake into the center of the old town, ending at the church of San Georgio.

A morning in Lenno and an afternoon in Varenna made for a busy but fabulous day, especially shared with my sister. But next time we have to stay longer! - post by Joanne

Italy in Phase Three

It’s July and here in Italy we have now moved into Phase Three of the COVID-19 response. This further easing of restrictions, which began on June 15, is a slow roll out of what promises to be a long period of the “new normal.”

Some measures remain in place. Masks are still required, though now only in enclosed public spaces (groceries, shops, offices, banks) or when in groups. Here in Lucca that means early morning walks on Le Mura (the walls surrounding the historic center) when there are no crowds can be enjoyed without a mask. Wow — that’s huge progress. When walking, masks are in hand, or around the neck, ready to be pulled into place when meeting someone and stopping to chat face to face.

Social distancing poles dot the beach in Lerici.

Social distancing is required, even on the beaches. Large group meetings are still banned and public schools remain closed.

Lucca Italian School, a private school where I continue to study Italian, has reopened for small, socially distanced group learning and priviate instruction (they also continue to offer online lessons). Thinking about the huge garden space that surrounds the school, and the large and lovely terrace, I know that this is the place to study Italian this summer!

Other big changes include playgrounds reopening as of mid-June (a joy for kids and parents alike) and the carousel in Lucca’s biggest piazza, Piazza Napoleone, is once again whirling happy children around and around on a variety of fantastic animals.

It wouldn’t be summer without a ride on Lucca’s beautiful carousel.

Amateur sports have been permitted since late June. Just think how happy Italian kids are to get back to playing soccer! Movie theaters and performance spaces have opened as well with limits as to the number of people admitted at any one time. The outdoor movies, a highlight of summer here in Lucca, have begun too. This year they will limit attendance, require advance seat reservations, and provide plenty of space between movie goers.

A spritz on Piazza San Michele - perfect on a summer evening and a post-lockdown treat

By mid-July nightclubs can begin to open, with socially distant dance floors. No dirty dancing allowed! And bring a mask for the dance floor, removing it to sip a drink when not dancing.

I must say that this is an activity I can skip altogether. I’m content with sipping a coffee at a cafe or a drink on a warm summer evening in a pretty piazza.

I have a new appreciation for these simple pleasures.

Travel is also opening up, with travelers from EU countries as well as England and Ireland, allowed to visit Italy without the need for a quarantine on arrival as of mid-June. Soon, travelers from non-EU countries who have managed to gain control of their COVID infections will be allowed to return as well. Sadly, the United States will not meet the requirements as COVID continues to run rampant there and so no tourists from the U.S. will be permitted to enter Italy (or most EU countries). It’s a bit unclear at this point when those of us who live in Italy, but need to make a trip back to the United States in the coming weeks, will be permitted to return to our Italian homes. One thing for certain is that we will need to self-quarantine for two weeks on our return.

A recent road trip took me past the tiny hill town of Castello di Nozzano. The ability to get out to hill towns, beaches, mountains, and cities is a huge benefit of Italy entering Phase 3.

The best part of the advance into Phase Three is that it means that with continued social distancing and prevention measures, Italy has, through much economic and social pain, not just flattened the curve but driven the new cases down to a trickle.