August Holidays in Italy

Italians head to the beach in August. This is a typical beach club in Bonassola.

It’s August, the Italian holiday month. Tradition says to close down the shops, take time off work, and head out of town.

Don’t be surprised to see the “chiuso per ferie” (closed for holiday) sign on a favorite restaurant or shop, especially mid-month for the Ferragosto public holiday.

The beach is a favorite destination, providing time to swim, relax, read, do crossword puzzles by the sea, or just refresh and cool off.

Think colorful beach umbrellas, boats on the horizon, and lots of bronzed bodies off all ages, sizes, and shapes - that is the unabashed Italian way. Isn’t it wonderful?

In that spirit, I am taking an August writing break. The next few posts will be mostly photos, many taken along Italy’s dramatic coastline. I hope they keep you cool and daydreaming of summer in Italy.

Today - Portofino, enclave of the rich and famous. The water is blue, the harbor charming, the surrounding cliffs dramatic, and the yachts the stuff of fantasy. It’s a picture postcard of a town.

Yachts from all over the world anchor in Portofino’s harbor. Here, if you have to ask what it costs, you definitely can’t afford it ! And that includes the gelato.

A walk through town weaves past colorful houses, pretty gardens, high-end shops, small churches, and even a view of the castle up on the cliff. Stop for a harbor side gelato before boarding the ferry back to Rapallo or Santa Margarita. It’s hard to beat summer along the Ligurian coast !

Off The Beaten Path in Vernazza

Vernazza is crowded in June (even before peak season).

Vernazza is one of the five little villages that make up the Cinque Terre, stretching along the Ligurian coast of Italy. 4 of the 5 towns are perched right along the sea (from north to south: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Manarola, and Riomaggiore). The fifth village is Corniglia which sits nearly 400 steps up a hillside. Once a string of isolated fishing villages, the railroad made the region more accessible and the tourists soon followed. Today the Cinque Terre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, part of a national park, and a popular tourist destination.

Many would argue that the whole region has become much too popular with tourists and that is probably most true of picturesque Vernazza. It can be a very crowded place, especially in the summer.

And yet, it is a magical place to visit. Vernazza has a natural harbor surrounded by dramatic cliffs with the ruins of a castle and tower, an ancient defense against pirates, facing out to sea. The small harbor plays host to the ferry dock, fishing boats, lots of sunbathers along the rocks, and a small beach.

Colorful boats in Vernazza’s harbor

Standing tall above the harbor is the church of Santa Margherita D’Antiochia with it’s unusual octagonal campanile (bell tower). It is this church and the harbor that is the classic view of Vernazza and the photo taken my countless visitors (top photo). Nearby is pretty Piazza Marconi ringed with cafes and restaurants. From there a single main street links the harbor with the train station on the opposite side of town. Along the street is an arch leading to another small beach, shops, gelaterie, a small street-side chapel, and lots and lots of tourists.

When I visited in mid-June, with my daughter and two oldest grandkids, the crowds had already arrived though had not yet peaked. After a harbor side lunch we headed out along Via Roma. After a while we decided to escape the crowds by taking a left hand turn and heading up some steps to get above the fray. What a good decision!

Just one street off the busy “main drag”, Via Agostino del Santo is another world entirely. Few people, no tourists spots. But so much to enjoy - small houses with painted doors, steep streets, little hidden alleys, a couple of galleries, enchanting corners, and a walk that ended high above the harbor with great views.

This off the beaten path walk was a wonderful break from the crowds and a glimpse of Vernazza that most visitors never see. As is so often the case when visiting Italy, it is the slices of everyday life and the hidden spots that are the most enchanting.

A Maritime Museum in Genoa

Columbus, pointing the way to the New World.

The city of Genova (Genoa) is famous for many things, but above all it is an important port city. For centuries it has been a center of ship building, maritime trade, and exploration. Genova is also the place where Cristofo Columbo (Christopher Columbus) was born. Throughout the region there are statues of Columbus, a local hero, depicted with his arm outstretched pointing the way to America. Of course in reality it wasn’t America he was searching for, not to mention he sailed for Spain not Italy. No matter, he is still a revered native son of Genova.

In the spirit of its seafaring history, Genova is also the site of a wonderful maritime museum, the Galata Museo del Mare (Galata Museum of the Sea). The Galeta is the largest maritime museum in the Mediterranean region and was high on my teenage grandson’s list of places to visit during our recent vacation in Liguria. From our base in Rapallo, Genoa was an easy day trip, less than an hour away by train. So, off we went one morning to Genoa where the museum is just a short walk from the Principe train station.

Genoa’s Porto Antico, where the Galata Museo del Mare is located.

Located in the Porto Antico (Old Port) area, the museum traces local history from the creation of the port, the construction of sailing vessels, the growth of trade, the work of the sailors and merchants, and the life of Columbus. There are also exhibits about Genoa as a point of embarkation for those emigrating from Italy, modern shipping and commerce, and the more recent arrival of immigrants to Italy. All this and a submarine exhibit too. For anyone interested in beautiful old wooden ships and maritime history this is a great place to visit.

The museum is spread over 4 floors. The exhibits are organized chronologically, with good signage in both Italian and English. The story begins on the ground floor with maps, illustrations, and exhibits dedicated to the earliest life of the port. One room is dedicated to the life of Columbus, with detailed models of his three famous ships. Another room is full of helmets, spears, cannons, and armor related to the port’s historic military role.

The largest exhibit on the first floor is a full size reproduction of a galleon ship. This is a hands (and feet) on exhibit - climb aboard, admire the beautiful craftsmanship, and get a feel for the sights and sounds of life on a 17th century ship. Fun!

A 17th century Genovese galleon vessel

The exhibit continues with aspects of the sailor’s daily life in scenes set around the ship. You can even try your hand at rowing the heavy oars. Kids love these hands on experiences.

The next floors are all about ships and sailing. Included is another large ship, this time a reproduction of the brigantine Anna. The era comes alive as you peer into the captain’s quarters, the map room, even the galley kitchen. Walk the decks, take a turn at the wheel, and you can almost feel the ship rising and falling with the waves. The detail is amazing.

The displays of navigational instruments and models of ships are impressive. Imagine those early sailors, with no satellite or radar or high tech communication methods, sailing off into the unknown. Che coraggioso!

I particularly enjoyed the exhibits about Italian emigration. After all, this is the story of my Italian great grandfather, Pasquale Marino.

The exhibit begins with a walk through an Italian neighborhood. Hear Italians while they lean out their windows and talk across the piazza about leaving their homes (via video technology).

Then go to the port’s office where the officer asks for your documents and gives you a passport, board the ship, and walk through the male and female dormitories to get a feel for life onboard. The rustic bathrooms, dining room, and ship’s hospital make clear that this was no luxury voyage for most of the people on board.

Finally, arrive to your destination, present your paperwork, and feel what it’s like to enter an unknown country. I am not sure who designed this exhibit, but it’s brilliant.

The uppermost exhibit floors display models of modern vessel and tell of more recent explorers. There is also a moving area telling the stories of the recent wave of immigrants to Italy.

Lastly, there is the submarine, which sits in the harbor. Inside the museum are exhibits about the vessel which give a feel for its technology and inner workings. The submarine itself was closed for cleaning the day we visited, but usually is available for visits.

The Porto Antico area also houses an aquarium, interesting ships anchored in the harbor, and several restaurants. After a harbor side lunch we hopped the train back to our base in Rapallo, having learned a lot about ships and Genoa’s maritime history.

Camogli, A Perfect Spot on the Portofino Penisola

If asked to pick my favorite spot on the Portofino Peninsula, for me there would be no competition - it’s Camogli. Smaller than its busier neighbor Rapallo, and much more humble than nearby Portofino, Camogli strikes the perfect balance.

At its heart, Camogli remains a small fishing village. The name most likely originated as a contraction of the word Casa (house) and Mogli (Wives), a nod to the time when the men stayed away fishing and the wives kept things running in town. An alternative theory is that it signifies a town of closely packed houses. That fits too as Camogli is filled with rows of connected houses in sun-drenched colors. To add to the charm, many of the houses are decorated with tromp l’oeil paintings and pretty flower-filled balconies. Even the laundry is decorative.

Today, the area surrounding the small harbor and seaside promenade remains the center of action in this friendly and laid back town. And there is still a lot of fishing going on, with signs of that activity visible throughout town.

There are two ways to arrive in Camogli (other than by car). The train, just two stops and about 8 minutes away from Rapallo, arrives in the upper part of town. A walk down the main street in front of the station takes you past colorful houses, small parks, bougainvillea covered fences, little shops, and a small tourist info office (stop in for a town map). It also provides teasing glimpses of the sea down below.

The second way to arrive is by ferry from San Fruttuoso, arriving in the lower town’s small harbor. The harbor is full of fishing boats and small sailing boats.

Camogli’s harbor, viewed through its romantic fence full of hearts. Valentine’s Day is an event to celebrate in Camogli.

A walk along the back of the harbor leads to a long jetty with harbor and open sea views, an interesting art installation, and a peek at Genoa in the distance.

Up above the harbor, on a rocky cliff jutting out to the sea, sits the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, with one side facing the harbor and the other a small rocky swimming spot. Also on the the cliff is a 13th century defensive structure, the Castello della Dragonara (Dragon’s Castle). Built to defend against invaders, it did not stop an attack by the Milanese in the 15th century. Over time it has been destroyed, rebuilt, used as a prison and abandoned. Today it stands as a sleepy guard over the peaceful fishing village (it is not open to visitors).

Castello della Dragonara (photo by Jake Davis)

The rocky perch on which the church and castle stand separates the harbor from the seaside promenade that stretches along Via Garibaldi. The promenade plays host to shady archways, shops, restaurants (the local specialty is focaccia, but oh the gelato and granita!), beaches lined with colorful umbrellas, and distant views of sea and sailboats. I don’t think that there is a more tranquil, friendly spot on the Portofino Peninsula.

A day in Camogli was not nearly enough time to spend in this perfect little fishing village. I think fall would be a perfect time to return or perhaps in May for the annual Sagra del Pesce (Festival of the Fish). Or in August for the Festa della Stella Maris (Festival of the Star of the Sea) when candles float on the sea in honor of the Madonna who protects sailors. Decisions, decisions!

An Italian Seaside Vacation

Some people think that living in Lucca means that I am on permanent vacation. Not true! My daily life here consists mostly of routine things - grocery shopping, laundry, cooking, paying bills - along with doing the research, photography and writing for Two Parts Italy. Fortunately, I am able to do these things in a spectacularly beautiful walled town surrounded by the musical sound of the Italian language, make little day trips to surrounding towns, and enjoy all the riches Lucca has to offer. Life here is a joy but not an endless vacation. As with any daily life, sometimes a gal wants (needs) to change things up a bit and go on a real vacation. Even better if that vacation includes sun, sea, quaint villages, and the beautiful rugged coast of Liguria. Add in a visiting daughter and a couple of grandkids and you’ve got the foundation for a great trip.

Rapallo’s seaside promenade - the view from our Airbnb apartment. Perfect location!

Arriving by ferry to villages from Portovenere to Portofino added a fun dimension to visiting villages along the Ligurian coast

I always think that the best vacations combine someplace new with a much loved place from a previous trip. My June vacation met both of those criteria. The new place was the Portofino Peninsula. The return visit was to Levanto, a special request from my grandkids who fell in love with this laid back seaside town on their first visit to Italy several years ago. And while I picked the two towns in which we based, I pretty much let the activities be driven by my grandkids who, at ages 17 and 13, had some pretty specific requests - boats, beaches, one big city adventure, a little shopping, and lots of gelato.

First stop: Rapallo and an Airbnb apartment a block from the sea and just steps from lively restaurants, bars, and shops. Rapallo makes a great base for exploring the whole peninsula, including the towns of Santa Margarita Ligure, Camogli, and Portofino as well as the more rugged areas (great for hikers) around the Abbey at San Fruttuoso. In the summer all of these are connected by the Tigullio Ferry System, a fun way to travel around the area. Rapallo also has a very convenient train station with quick connections to Santa Margarita and Camogli. Genoa is an easy day trip too, just 23 miles away.

The castle fortress in Rapallo.

Rapallo has a lovely seaside promenade, the Lungomare Vittorio Veneto, which curves around from a harbor and sailing school at one end, to a private beach club, a small public beach (under construction during our visit), and down to a castle fortress. The fortress was built centuries ago to defend the city of Rapallo from the 16th century pirates who once caused havoc along the coast. It seems to still be working - there wasn’t a pirate to be found during our visit. Next to the castle is a small public beach. As is typical for this area, the beaches are more pebbles than sand. Walk further and find some seaside hotels, good spots for a sunset cocktail, and pretty villas. All along the way are street mosaics with sea themes and gorgeous views.

Across the street from the promenade are several restaurants with pretty views, attracting lots of tourists.

We had great pizza there one night at Pizzeria Nettuno where you can select your crust (classic, integrale, or a soy/rice blend) and choose from a huge variety of toppings. It may have been along the seaside “tourist row” but it was terrific pizza.

Small pedestrian only streets lead away from the water and into the center of town where we found our favorite bars and restaurants. No sea views, but lively and with really good seafood and trofie with pesto, a local specialty. We particularly liked the Osteria Vecchia Rapallo for it’s fritto misto and pasta dishes.

Aperitivo time (virgin cocktails for the kids)

Of course, summer in Italy means sipping a cocktail in a piazza or pretty side street before dinner.

In that spirit, I introduced my teenage grandkids to the joys of the Italian aperitivo at the wonderful Taverna Gallo Nero. Sitting here during aperitivo hour is the very best kind of street theater and people watching.

While my daughter and I sipped Aperol Spritz, the kids enjoyed virgin cocktails along with traditional aperitivo snacks. After all, an aperitivo is a not-to-be-missed cultural experience when in Italy!

Rapallo is filled with beautiful architecture. The Liberty Style villas are gracious and colorful. The old part of town is famous for the painted tromp-l’oeil details on the buildings.

It’s fun to spot the false painted windows, an 18th century tax evasion trick (when taxes were based on the number of windows in a building).

Wandering through town we found ourselves watching ladies make fresh pasta through a shop window, intrigued by a storefront where they made delicate lace by hand, and inspired by kids learning to sail with instructors from the local sailing school. We also roamed through pretty parks (with a statue of Christopher Columbus pointing the way to the new world), along canals leading to the sea, past small churches, and through markets. There were charming piazzas, inviting courtyards, and cafes around every corner.

Rapallo made the perfect base for exploring this part of the Ligurian coast. Our visit provided an introduction to the town ( a longer stay is definitely in my future) and a chance to visit several surrounding villages. I think we all agreed that our favorite spot was the small fishing village of Camogli. More about that next week!