An Italian Decade

August has come and gone, there are only a few weeks of summer left, and I have just arrived back in Lucca after a long visit with family in the US. Today I am feeling nostalgic - it was 10 years ago that I first came to Lucca, intending to have a “once in a lifetime” month of studying Italian here. Little did I know that the adventure would be much bigger than I realized at that time. Once in a lifetime turned quickly turned into once a year, then twice a year, and then, in 2018, a move to Lucca where I now spend the majority of each year. That first excursion to Lucca was a decade ago, my Italian decade. With that in mind, I thought I’d share some of my favorite photo memories from each of the last 10 years in Lucca, beginning with the gardens of Palazzo Pfanner, one of my favorite spots (top photo, from 2012).

2013 - Another garden, the Orto Botanico. I snapped this photo of two friends, some of the dearest people I have ever met, at the end of our garden visit.

2014 - An excursion to Pisa with Lucca Italian School. Those storm clouds !

2015 - One of the many Medieval celebrations in Lucca. I still never miss a chance to see one of these. I’ve gained a new appreciation for men in tights, ancient weaponry, and flag throwing.

2016 - The year I retired and went a little crazy - making three trips to Lucca. Spring (below left) and my favorite view from Lucca’s wall. Fall means beans for soup at Bottega di Prospero, one of Lucca’s oldest markets. Winter brought my first Christmas season in Lucca (made possible by a ridiculously low $400 round trip airfare!).

2017 - Spring in Lucca and another chance to study in the beautiful Liberty Style building that houses Lucca Italian School. The Santa Zita flower market, something to look forward to each spring. My favorite of the many beautiful stands of wisteria that herald spring in Lucca. The Rolling Stones came to Lucca in Fall of 2017, these posters were everywhere! The Volto Santo Procession and a medieval archery competition, both part of the Settembre Lucchese events.

2018 - Summer fun in the piazza. One of Lucca’s outdoor art exhibits. My first home in Lucca - what a thrill to see my own name on the doorbell.

2019 - A cold winter morning. Carnevale in Viareggio. A costumed participant at the Lucca Comics and Games Festival. A cooking class during Olive Oil week at Lucca Italian School.

2020 - Definitely a strange year ! Even the street art reflected the pandemic. Banners promising that all would be ok where everywhere, a sign of community spirit and hope. Christmas decorations were most welcome this year, especially with inspiring words from Dante.

2021 - Magnolias, the first sign of spring in Lucca. A sculpture from Cartasia, the celebration of paper art. Over the summer paintings of Puccini heroines appeared on many of the store shutters in Lucca, a delightful surprise.

2022 - This year marks 10 years of travel to Lucca and the easing of COVID travel rules, double the reason to celebrate. Verde Mura, the spring garden festival returned. My grandkids and daughter came to visit (finally)! The kids explored Lucca with local tour guide Diletta Barbieri. A happy group enjoying lunch after a cooking class at Extra Virgin Cooking. It has been a good year and it isn’t over yet ! Life is good in Lucca.

And Then Came Giotto

I am not an art historian; far from it.  I don’t even claim to be a serious student of art.  And yet, it is impossible to live in Italy and not develop a profound appreciation for art. There are museums full of ancient art – Etruscan and Roman – displaying artifacts from those eras, from tiny jewelry pieces to funeral urns, mosaics, and classic statuary.  And though there were also Roman painters, the examples that have survived are relatively few.  In contrast, paintings from the late Medieval (Middle Age) and Renaissance periods fill Italian churches and museums.  The differences between the two eras can be appreciated by even an untrained observer like myself.

Madonna and Child ca. 1300 artist: Duccio. (photo from Wikimedia Commons Public Domain). An example of painting from the Medieval era.

Prior to the Renaissance, Medieval paintings were characterized by religious subjects, often a single figure filling the center of a painting.  The figures were flat and the faces often expressionless.  The human form was not natural looking or sensuous.  These were icons, not neighbors.

Backgrounds and perspective were not very important components of medieval painting.  And all that gold!  Gold shows up everywhere in Italian art of the middle ages.  In backgrounds, in halos, in elaborate detailing.  Imagine how that gold appeared – as the richness of God, the divine light – and also, perhaps, an symbol of the wealth of the patron or church who commissioned the work.

In contrast, paintings from the Renaissance era (1400 – 1600 AD) make wonderful use of perspective and often place subjects in natural settings.  The figures are realistic, their human-ness evident.  The clothing drapes and swirls, the faces show a full range of emotions.  The subjects are still largely religious, though portraits were also painted, usually for wealthy patrons (think of Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, painted in 1503).  The names of Renaissance artists are familiar: Donatello, Da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Raphael being perhaps the most widely known artists from the 1400’s.

An unfinished Da Vinci portrait painted between 1500 - 1505. La Scapigliata (the word scapigliata refers to her disheveled hair) hangs in the National Museum in Parma, Italy. The difference between this Renaissance painting and earlier Medieval ones is pretty clear!

And in between the two periods, the Medieval and the Renaissance, came Giotto di Bondone (1267-1337). Giotto was that rare artist who was appreciated, even famous, during his lifetime. He even merited a mention by his contemporary Dante in The Divine Comedy. 

 Giotto revolutionized Italian art, creating life-like figures and placing them in more natural settings. Giotto’s figures show a full range of emotions through their facial expressions. No flat, lifeless saints and madonnas here!   Giotto’s scenes are populated by people who look like the neighbors down the street (at least what the neighbors would have looked like in 1300).  His men are placed in realistic poses and settings, his ladies have (gasp!) breasts over which their garments drape. His angels fly, his flames flicker.  And while the saints still have halos of gold, their clothing is colorful and the background is the most heavenly blue. 

Panel # 34. Weeping over the Body of Christ. Scovegni Chapel.

Sadly, much of Giotto’s work has been destroyed, by time and by fire.  Of the works that remain, the Scrovegni Chapel in Padova is Giotto’s capolavoro (masterpiece). A chance to see the frescoes there was the main reason for my trip to Padova last fall. The church is small and intimate, built as a private chapel for the Scrovegni Family.  The frescoes are in wonderful condition, the figures beautiful, and the colors spectacular.

Panel #35. The Resurrection

The frescoes wrap around the chapel, in a three-tiered series of panels, telling stories from the life of Joachim and Anne, Mary, and Christ. The scenes are full of life, there is movement and emotion, the figures pull you in to their story. Through it all Giotto proves to be not just an accomplished artist but a master storyteller as well.

Panels #8 (Presentation of the Virgin), 21 (Baptism of Jesus), and 33 Crucifixion (top to bottom)

The far end of the chapel has the largest scene - the Last Judgement. It is stunning in both its beauty and its brutality. 

To the left, heaven. To the right, a hell that is terrifying!

 Look closely and you will find Enrico Scrovegni, offering up the chapel in atonement for the sin of usary (the Scrovegni family were money lenders). This is no doubt an attempt to avoid Giotto’s graphic depiction of hell.

 Aside from bible tales, the allegories of Virtues and Vices are fascinating. Simplistic in design and color compared with the rest of the frescoes, without much adornment, the contrasting figures are as relevant and thought-provoking today as when painted in the early 1300’s.  Pictured below (left to right): Hope, Envy, Justice, Despair.

The Scrovegni chapel is simply astonishing (my photos can’t capture its majesty).  One does not have to be an art historian, a religious scholar, or even a believer, to appreciate Giotto’s artistic brilliance and the power of these frescoes.  And for anyone with an interest in art, or simply in beauty, the Scrovegni Chapel in Padova is an experience not to be missed.

Detail from panel #33. The Crucifixion

 Even the smallest decorations - such as these quatrefoils - have incredible detail and depth. I could spend hours here looking at everything from the largest scene to the smallest detail. I think I’ll need to go back to Padova before too long.

Note: The Scrovegni Chapel is open to the public with advanced reservation tickets only. Before entering the chapel itself there is a short video (with subtitles in English) which gives a good history of the chapel. Admission is limited to about 25 people at a time with a time limit in the chapel of 15 minutes per group. A short time, but well worth it and sufficient to see this small space (especially after some pre-visit reading).

Off The Beaten Path in Vernazza

Vernazza is crowded in June (even before peak season).

Vernazza is one of the five little villages that make up the Cinque Terre, stretching along the Ligurian coast of Italy. 4 of the 5 towns are perched right along the sea (from north to south: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Manarola, and Riomaggiore). The fifth village is Corniglia which sits nearly 400 steps up a hillside. Once a string of isolated fishing villages, the railroad made the region more accessible and the tourists soon followed. Today the Cinque Terre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, part of a national park, and a popular tourist destination.

Many would argue that the whole region has become much too popular with tourists and that is probably most true of picturesque Vernazza. It can be a very crowded place, especially in the summer.

And yet, it is a magical place to visit. Vernazza has a natural harbor surrounded by dramatic cliffs with the ruins of a castle and tower, an ancient defense against pirates, facing out to sea. The small harbor plays host to the ferry dock, fishing boats, lots of sunbathers along the rocks, and a small beach.

Colorful boats in Vernazza’s harbor

Standing tall above the harbor is the church of Santa Margherita D’Antiochia with it’s unusual octagonal campanile (bell tower). It is this church and the harbor that is the classic view of Vernazza and the photo taken my countless visitors (top photo). Nearby is pretty Piazza Marconi ringed with cafes and restaurants. From there a single main street links the harbor with the train station on the opposite side of town. Along the street is an arch leading to another small beach, shops, gelaterie, a small street-side chapel, and lots and lots of tourists.

When I visited in mid-June, with my daughter and two oldest grandkids, the crowds had already arrived though had not yet peaked. After a harbor side lunch we headed out along Via Roma. After a while we decided to escape the crowds by taking a left hand turn and heading up some steps to get above the fray. What a good decision!

Just one street off the busy “main drag”, Via Agostino del Santo is another world entirely. Few people, no tourists spots. But so much to enjoy - small houses with painted doors, steep streets, little hidden alleys, a couple of galleries, enchanting corners, and a walk that ended high above the harbor with great views.

This off the beaten path walk was a wonderful break from the crowds and a glimpse of Vernazza that most visitors never see. As is so often the case when visiting Italy, it is the slices of everyday life and the hidden spots that are the most enchanting.

Camogli, A Perfect Spot on the Portofino Penisola

If asked to pick my favorite spot on the Portofino Peninsula, for me there would be no competition - it’s Camogli. Smaller than its busier neighbor Rapallo, and much more humble than nearby Portofino, Camogli strikes the perfect balance.

At its heart, Camogli remains a small fishing village. The name most likely originated as a contraction of the word Casa (house) and Mogli (Wives), a nod to the time when the men stayed away fishing and the wives kept things running in town. An alternative theory is that it signifies a town of closely packed houses. That fits too as Camogli is filled with rows of connected houses in sun-drenched colors. To add to the charm, many of the houses are decorated with tromp l’oeil paintings and pretty flower-filled balconies. Even the laundry is decorative.

Today, the area surrounding the small harbor and seaside promenade remains the center of action in this friendly and laid back town. And there is still a lot of fishing going on, with signs of that activity visible throughout town.

There are two ways to arrive in Camogli (other than by car). The train, just two stops and about 8 minutes away from Rapallo, arrives in the upper part of town. A walk down the main street in front of the station takes you past colorful houses, small parks, bougainvillea covered fences, little shops, and a small tourist info office (stop in for a town map). It also provides teasing glimpses of the sea down below.

The second way to arrive is by ferry from San Fruttuoso, arriving in the lower town’s small harbor. The harbor is full of fishing boats and small sailing boats.

Camogli’s harbor, viewed through its romantic fence full of hearts. Valentine’s Day is an event to celebrate in Camogli.

A walk along the back of the harbor leads to a long jetty with harbor and open sea views, an interesting art installation, and a peek at Genoa in the distance.

Up above the harbor, on a rocky cliff jutting out to the sea, sits the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, with one side facing the harbor and the other a small rocky swimming spot. Also on the the cliff is a 13th century defensive structure, the Castello della Dragonara (Dragon’s Castle). Built to defend against invaders, it did not stop an attack by the Milanese in the 15th century. Over time it has been destroyed, rebuilt, used as a prison and abandoned. Today it stands as a sleepy guard over the peaceful fishing village (it is not open to visitors).

Castello della Dragonara (photo by Jake Davis)

The rocky perch on which the church and castle stand separates the harbor from the seaside promenade that stretches along Via Garibaldi. The promenade plays host to shady archways, shops, restaurants (the local specialty is focaccia, but oh the gelato and granita!), beaches lined with colorful umbrellas, and distant views of sea and sailboats. I don’t think that there is a more tranquil, friendly spot on the Portofino Peninsula.

A day in Camogli was not nearly enough time to spend in this perfect little fishing village. I think fall would be a perfect time to return or perhaps in May for the annual Sagra del Pesce (Festival of the Fish). Or in August for the Festa della Stella Maris (Festival of the Star of the Sea) when candles float on the sea in honor of the Madonna who protects sailors. Decisions, decisions!

An Italian Seaside Vacation

Some people think that living in Lucca means that I am on permanent vacation. Not true! My daily life here consists mostly of routine things - grocery shopping, laundry, cooking, paying bills - along with doing the research, photography and writing for Two Parts Italy. Fortunately, I am able to do these things in a spectacularly beautiful walled town surrounded by the musical sound of the Italian language, make little day trips to surrounding towns, and enjoy all the riches Lucca has to offer. Life here is a joy but not an endless vacation. As with any daily life, sometimes a gal wants (needs) to change things up a bit and go on a real vacation. Even better if that vacation includes sun, sea, quaint villages, and the beautiful rugged coast of Liguria. Add in a visiting daughter and a couple of grandkids and you’ve got the foundation for a great trip.

Rapallo’s seaside promenade - the view from our Airbnb apartment. Perfect location!

Arriving by ferry to villages from Portovenere to Portofino added a fun dimension to visiting villages along the Ligurian coast

I always think that the best vacations combine someplace new with a much loved place from a previous trip. My June vacation met both of those criteria. The new place was the Portofino Peninsula. The return visit was to Levanto, a special request from my grandkids who fell in love with this laid back seaside town on their first visit to Italy several years ago. And while I picked the two towns in which we based, I pretty much let the activities be driven by my grandkids who, at ages 17 and 13, had some pretty specific requests - boats, beaches, one big city adventure, a little shopping, and lots of gelato.

First stop: Rapallo and an Airbnb apartment a block from the sea and just steps from lively restaurants, bars, and shops. Rapallo makes a great base for exploring the whole peninsula, including the towns of Santa Margarita Ligure, Camogli, and Portofino as well as the more rugged areas (great for hikers) around the Abbey at San Fruttuoso. In the summer all of these are connected by the Tigullio Ferry System, a fun way to travel around the area. Rapallo also has a very convenient train station with quick connections to Santa Margarita and Camogli. Genoa is an easy day trip too, just 23 miles away.

The castle fortress in Rapallo.

Rapallo has a lovely seaside promenade, the Lungomare Vittorio Veneto, which curves around from a harbor and sailing school at one end, to a private beach club, a small public beach (under construction during our visit), and down to a castle fortress. The fortress was built centuries ago to defend the city of Rapallo from the 16th century pirates who once caused havoc along the coast. It seems to still be working - there wasn’t a pirate to be found during our visit. Next to the castle is a small public beach. As is typical for this area, the beaches are more pebbles than sand. Walk further and find some seaside hotels, good spots for a sunset cocktail, and pretty villas. All along the way are street mosaics with sea themes and gorgeous views.

Across the street from the promenade are several restaurants with pretty views, attracting lots of tourists.

We had great pizza there one night at Pizzeria Nettuno where you can select your crust (classic, integrale, or a soy/rice blend) and choose from a huge variety of toppings. It may have been along the seaside “tourist row” but it was terrific pizza.

Small pedestrian only streets lead away from the water and into the center of town where we found our favorite bars and restaurants. No sea views, but lively and with really good seafood and trofie with pesto, a local specialty. We particularly liked the Osteria Vecchia Rapallo for it’s fritto misto and pasta dishes.

Aperitivo time (virgin cocktails for the kids)

Of course, summer in Italy means sipping a cocktail in a piazza or pretty side street before dinner.

In that spirit, I introduced my teenage grandkids to the joys of the Italian aperitivo at the wonderful Taverna Gallo Nero. Sitting here during aperitivo hour is the very best kind of street theater and people watching.

While my daughter and I sipped Aperol Spritz, the kids enjoyed virgin cocktails along with traditional aperitivo snacks. After all, an aperitivo is a not-to-be-missed cultural experience when in Italy!

Rapallo is filled with beautiful architecture. The Liberty Style villas are gracious and colorful. The old part of town is famous for the painted tromp-l’oeil details on the buildings.

It’s fun to spot the false painted windows, an 18th century tax evasion trick (when taxes were based on the number of windows in a building).

Wandering through town we found ourselves watching ladies make fresh pasta through a shop window, intrigued by a storefront where they made delicate lace by hand, and inspired by kids learning to sail with instructors from the local sailing school. We also roamed through pretty parks (with a statue of Christopher Columbus pointing the way to the new world), along canals leading to the sea, past small churches, and through markets. There were charming piazzas, inviting courtyards, and cafes around every corner.

Rapallo made the perfect base for exploring this part of the Ligurian coast. Our visit provided an introduction to the town ( a longer stay is definitely in my future) and a chance to visit several surrounding villages. I think we all agreed that our favorite spot was the small fishing village of Camogli. More about that next week!